What's new

Negotiating tactics part 2, ran when parked

I don't deal with scumbags so if we agree I'm gonna do X and if successful pay Y then that's how it goes down.

It's pretty easy to sniff out those types of people who are likely to be those types and just not deal with them.

But I'm also not some POS flipper myself. I understand that those guys, by nature of having to move volume, need to always be buying and selling and are forced to look in the mirror a lot.
You have far more trust in people that I don't know and will probably never see again than I do...:beer:
 
You have far more trust in people that I don't know and will probably never see again than I do...:beer:
You don't need trust. If they're not willing to meet on price or let you verify they can fuck off.

I don't "need" more junk and more projects. I'm not trying to thread the needle on repair costs trying to score shit at prices that lets me flip and profit. I, and anyone else, can just not deal with these people.

Edit: Probably helps that 30yo Ford and Subaru shitboxes and obsolete machine tools aren't exactly product categories that tend to attract shitbirds.
 
I won't fix shit when I go look at anything. I'll take a compression set and a borescope and I'll pull an oil filter. I'll replace the oil filter if I don't buy it and I cut it open if it's a more expensive car. If it's a cheap car, it's worth scrap and that's what I'll pay and won't bother checking shit. I still will only offer what it's worth less an engine swap if it is not running. I also won't go look at it if we aren't in the same ballpark on the offer with their list price being within 10% of what I'll pay.
 
Here is a tip: if you are looking at relatively new Hyundais or kias that “need a starter” call the manufacturer and see if they are covered under the extended warranty for the class action lawsuit. If not, run. It knocks.
 
You don't need trust. If they're not willing to meet on price or let you verify they can fuck off.

I don't "need" more junk and more projects. I'm not trying to thread the needle on repair costs trying to score shit at prices that lets me flip and profit. I, and anyone else, can just not deal with these people.

Edit: Probably helps that 30yo Ford and Subaru shitboxes and obsolete machine tools aren't exactly product categories that tend to attract shitbirds.
You don't even belong in this thread then? I buy and sell for a hobby. Have done it for almost 30 years now sometimes high volume for a back yard side business. I may have 3 people looking at 3 different things at my shop at one time.

You NEVER fix shit of anything before paying for it. Period! Been there, done that. And if you go to testing compression and such, don't say shit unless you find something. You play dumb and just say that "it seems low but I'm going to take a chance" even if it tests pristine.

On the other hand I bought a t-case a few months ago for a project. It was a mechanic who was parting a donor vehicle. He had one hell of a crew cab ford with a 7.3 sitting out front. I had to ask about it... Dude said he couldn't figure out what was wrong with it so he just sold it for $1,500. Then the guy that he sold it to brought it back later the same day asking for an oil change basically just to rub it in...:shaking:
 
You don't even belong in this thread then?
Ok, so now we know what lane you're in.:laughing:

Maybe you don't belong here. This is a thread about buying a boat, not about how to be a shitbag flipper and get one over on your customers.

I know you probably don't realize this but professional flippers give off a pretty obvious vibe when you encounter them as a seller. It really should be no surprise that sellers don't want to give you any sort of leeway.

You NEVER fix shit of anything before paying for it. Period! Been there, done that.
Sometimes you gotta all but fix shit to meet the agreed upon conditions of the sale. "I tell ya what, I'll fix the trans leak it and if it goes through the gears without issues I pay X" type shit. And if you don't come off like a scumbag most non scumbags will stick to their end of it.
And if you go to testing compression and such, don't say shit unless you find something. You play dumb and just say that "it seems low but I'm going to take a chance" even if it tests pristine.
Sellers aren't stupid. Trying to be guarded with information is the kind of shit that clues them into the fact that you're a flipper and likely to be trying to pull a fast one on them.


I have less than zero sympathy for when you high volume types who make a business out of this shit and run every transaction as though it's adversarial (because it is) get fucked. In fact I wish y'all got fucked more often. You serve no useful economic purpose. You're basically a liquidity provider. You are only useful in a small minority of transactions you take part in and you are a needless middle man jacking up cost in the vast majority of them.


Edit: It's worth noting that there's a couple people here who more or less have businesses flipping shit but don't have the aura of scummy flipper about them because they're upmarket enough that being scummy for a buck here and there just doesn't make sense.



I won't fix shit when I go look at anything. I'll take a compression set and a borescope and I'll pull an oil filter. I'll replace the oil filter if I don't buy it and I cut it open if it's a more expensive car. If it's a cheap car, it's worth scrap and that's what I'll pay and won't bother checking shit. I still will only offer what it's worth less an engine swap if it is not running. I also won't go look at it if we aren't in the same ballpark on the offer with their list price being within 10% of what I'll pay.
I've fixed shit in people's yards before. One of my favorite shitboxes I showed up in an identical shitbox with the radiator the new one needed in hand. I let the other guy know this was my plan. If the other guy says there's only one (realistically fixable) problem and he won't let you fix it that should be a red flag.

My front end loader we rigged up a battery and bypassed the fiery but mostly peaceful wiring harness to see if it'd crank. It didn't so we bore scoped it. Looked a tad questionable so the guy threw in some forks on the condition that I spend an hour helping him move some shit as he was cleaning out the property. I still bought it and it eventually ran so it all turned out good in the end.
 
Last edited:
When I buy a non runner, I am buying it expecting to put an engine or transmission in it, and I pay accordingly. If it just needs that magical $20.00 sensor, I make more money off of it, if it needs an engine, I'm still covered.

This is what I’ve always done in the past. But I was prepared to do an engine swap. I’m older now and I’m not looking for a major project. Certainly not on a boat. Show me a cheap Lambo and I’m interested. (Or Delorean) But used boats are a dime a dozen. I just want to enjoy it without spending my retirement. From what I see, boats are a terrible investment if you buy new.
 
Ok, so now we know what lane you're in.:laughing:

Maybe you don't belong here. This is a thread about buying a boat, not about how to be a shitbag flipper and get one over on your customers.

I know you probably don't realize this but professional flippers give off a pretty obvious vibe when you encounter them as a seller. It really should be no surprise that sellers don't want to give you any sort of leeway.


Sometimes you gotta all but fix shit to meet the agreed upon conditions of the sale. "I tell ya what, I'll fix the trans leak it and if it goes through the gears without issues I pay X" type shit. And if you don't come off like a scumbag most non scumbags will stick to their end of it.

Sellers aren't stupid. Trying to be guarded with information is the kind of shit that clues them into the fact that you're a flipper and likely to be trying to pull a fast one on them.


I have less than zero sympathy for when you high volume types who make a business out of this shit and run every transaction as though it's adversarial (because it is) get fucked. In fact I wish y'all got fucked more often. You serve no useful economic purpose. You're basically a liquidity provider. You are only useful in a small minority of transactions you take part in and you are a needless middle man jacking up cost in the vast majority of them.


Edit: It's worth noting that there's a couple people here who more or less have businesses flipping shit but don't have the aura of scummy flipper about them because they're upmarket enough that being scummy for a buck here and there just doesn't make sense.




I've fixed shit in people's yards before. One of my favorite shitboxes I showed up in an identical shitbox with the radiator the new one needed in hand. I let the other guy know this was my plan. If the other guy says there's only one (realistically fixable) problem and he won't let you fix it that should be a red flag.

My front end loader we rigged up a battery and bypassed the fiery but mostly peaceful wiring harness to see if it'd crank. It didn't so we bore scoped it. Looked a tad questionable so the guy threw in some forks on the condition that I spend an hour helping him move some shit as he was cleaning out the property. I still bought it and it eventually ran so it all turned out good in the end.
Just trying to teach something here. Carry on.:beer:
 
Here's the story of a guy named "Banner" when I was in college. Guy was a mechanic at a local auto shop and he worked with a friend of mine. Had a K5 blazer and needed money bad. Took another buddy over to look at it with me, and possibly tow me home with a tow strap. Banner was asking $1500. Blazer wouldn't start. I offered him the $400 I had in my wallet for it, but he really needed $500. My buddy had $31 on him, and that's how I bought a $431 K5 blazer. He said it was cleaned out and ready to go, so just come snag it whenever. Went over the next day while he was at work, put a battery on it, and drove it home. Cleaning it out, found about $500 worth of snap on tools in the back.

You never know, but I always lowball the fuck out of somebody on a non running vehicle.
 
My Pepere farmed with an 1855 till he retired in 93. That was the big tractor and only diesel he had. He kept it around for snowblower duty

Pretty sure its still on the farm, Mom's sister bought the place as their retirement home. Last I saw it, my uncle had sourced a cab for it, something my Pepere had always talked about.
You eat poutine, don't you! :flipoff2:
 
My last deal snag. I could have driven the tractor on the trailer with 1 min of work instead of the come-a-long workout but shitbag I had already paid seemed like the Grumpy kind to demand more cash when he saw me start it.

I’ve done the start it after the cash deal was handled to drive it on the trailer instead of drag. But it’s always been discussed prior that I was going to attempt it and the seller agreed before taking the money. Lots of kunts in this world (and right here in GCC) and I learned from one time getting burned on a “ran when parked” what I’m looking for in a shitbag seller.
 
Here's the story of a guy named "Banner" when I was in college. Guy was a mechanic at a local auto shop and he worked with a friend of mine. Had a K5 blazer and needed money bad. Took another buddy over to look at it with me, and possibly tow me home with a tow strap. Banner was asking $1500. Blazer wouldn't start. I offered him the $400 I had in my wallet for it, but he really needed $500. My buddy had $31 on him, and that's how I bought a $431 K5 blazer. He said it was cleaned out and ready to go, so just come snag it whenever. Went over the next day while he was at work, put a battery on it, and drove it home. Cleaning it out, found about $500 worth of snap on tools in the back.

You never know, but I always lowball the fuck out of somebody on a non running vehicle.
So that was like 3 sockets and a screwdriver.
 
My last deal snag. I could have driven the tractor on the trailer with 1 min of work instead of the come-a-long workout but shitbag I had already paid seemed like the Grumpy kind to demand more cash when he saw me start it.

I’ve done the start it after the cash deal was handled to drive it on the trailer instead of drag. But it’s always been discussed prior that I was going to attempt it and the seller agreed before taking the money. Lots of kunts in this world (and right here in GCC) and I learned from one time getting burned on a “ran when parked” what I’m looking for in a shitbag seller.
I usually don't agree too much with Arse as he is just trolling but he has actually had some real talking points in this thread and not just out his Arse. If I make a deal, whether over the phone or in person with someone, I stick to it. I made that decision to let it go at that price. It's my fault or maybe I just don't care to know the value of what I have (value is only real in what someone will pay, not what I think).
 
My last deal snag. I could have driven the tractor on the trailer with 1 min of work instead of the come-a-long workout but shitbag I had already paid seemed like the Grumpy kind to demand more cash when he saw me start it.

I’ve done the start it after the cash deal was handled to drive it on the trailer instead of drag. But it’s always been discussed prior that I was going to attempt it and the seller agreed before taking the money. Lots of kunts in this world (and right here in GCC) and I learned from one time getting burned on a “ran when parked” what I’m looking for in a shitbag seller.

If the money already changed hands, I would drive it on and if the seller even commented (beyond, "shoot, wish I coulda got it running") I would respond "why you asking about MY tractor? I do what I want." or "You listed it as a mechanics special, well, I am a mechanic."
 
When I posted originally I assumed that the price wll not go down if I got it started or even fired for a couple seconds. But does anybody really raise the price? I mean like, let’s say they say $1200 OBO. If you bargain when you get there, maybe you can get them down to $800. But you hook a good battery up and spray some starter fluid and it runs for a couple seconds and quits. I figure I can’t get him down to $800 any more, but he still is going to take $1200. It would take a lot of balls to raise it at that point. Maybe they raise the price after I leave , but I can’t imagine them raising it right then.

Have any of you actually had someone do this?
 
If the money already changed hands, I would drive it on and if the seller even commented (beyond, "shoot, wish I coulda got it running") I would respond "why you asking about MY tractor? I do what I want." or "You listed it as a mechanics special, well, I am a mechanic."

When I posted originally I assumed that the price wll not go down if I got it started or even fired for a couple seconds. But does anybody really raise the price? I mean like, let’s say they say $1200 OBO. If you bargain when you get there, maybe you can get them down to $800. But you hook a good battery up and spray some starter fluid and it runs for a couple seconds and quits. I figure I can’t get him down to $800 any more, but he still is going to take $1200. It would take a lot of balls to raise it at that point. Maybe they raise the price after I leave , but I can’t imagine them raising it right then.

Have any of you actually had someone do this?

I mean, see below

You fix it, the cost just went up, or I’m keeping it.
Definitely NOT going down at that point.
 
I'm not letting you work on your shit on my property unless you're a friend.

Edit:
I'll help you push it into the street.
Get it the fuck out of my eye balls. Dont care what else you do.

source: dude bought my cummin(g)s and left his camry, said he'd be back in a couple of days... Its been 3 months.
 
Get it the fuck out of my eye balls. Dont care what else you do.

source: dude bought my cummin(g)s and left his camry, said he'd be back in a couple of days... Its been 3 months.

Thats awesome:lmao:

I'd drag it into the street just enough that it gets towed
 
When I posted originally I assumed that the price wll not go down if I got it started or even fired for a couple seconds. But does anybody really raise the price? I mean like, let’s say they say $1200 OBO. If you bargain when you get there, maybe you can get them down to $800. But you hook a good battery up and spray some starter fluid and it runs for a couple seconds and quits. I figure I can’t get him down to $800 any more, but he still is going to take $1200. It would take a lot of balls to raise it at that point. Maybe they raise the price after I leave , but I can’t imagine them raising it right then.

Have any of you actually had someone do this?


I've made deals and had the seller ghost me, say it got totalled that afternoon, say that the title was actually in their moms name and she decided not to sell it etc.
In reality, I agreed to buy something sight unseen that was listed too cheap, and before I could get to it, somebody who was closer, or something came along and said "Fuck that guy, I'll give you 500 extra, tell him it got wrecked and ghost him, I'm on my way with cash"

So there's ways you could still get fucked after getting a 500 dollar no start started in a guys driveway.

If the front axle is worth 850, I don't need to hear the engine run, here's your 500 and I'm winching it on the trailer.

You never count your money
When you're sittin' at the table
There'll be time enough for countin'
When the dealin's done
 
My favorite term.:shaking:Fuckin mechanics specials. Special this!:flipoff2: Most are garbage. Needs a headgasket or only has reverse. That means it only has scrap value you retard. When someting is that good a deal, it gets snapped up pretty quick.
That said, the best deals I get are when people just need stuff gone. Makes the idiots thinking shit is golden look as stupid as they are.
 
Assume the motor is junk and pay accordingly.

Nothing else.

It’s just a bonus if you don’t have to buy a long block.
 
Once in a while. Didn't learn English till grade school. I remember as a youngun singing Frere Jacques and completely confused with the English part.
You eat poutine, don't you! :flipoff2:
 
I've made deals and had the seller ghost me, say it got totalled that afternoon, say that the title was actually in their moms name and she decided not to sell it etc.
In reality, I agreed to buy something sight unseen that was listed too cheap, and before I could get to it, somebody who was closer, or something came along and said "Fuck that guy, I'll give you 500 extra, tell him it got wrecked and ghost him, I'm on my way with cash"
Around here it would be considered common courtesy to tell the second guy you'll call him back if the first guy doesn't show or doesn't leave with it. People basically never behave that way except when giving shit away for free.

The regional differences in what typical behavior is say a lot about the implied value of the average person's time.
 
Around here it would be considered common courtesy to tell the second guy you'll call him back if the first guy doesn't show or doesn't leave with it. People basically never behave that way except when giving shit away for free.

The regional differences in what typical behavior is say a lot about the implied value of the average person's time.
That I don’t agree with. Maybe I am jaded from stories here, but basically I tell them first with cash in hand is king. Unless there is someone who really makes me believe they are going to be there to pick it up. Not taking my chances.
 
It's common courtesy everywhere, but the deals gone wrong are the ones we learn the most from.

Now I get an address along with my agreement, that drops the shitty behavior quite a bit.
 
Top Back Refresh