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Negotiating tactics part 2, ran when parked

You wouldnt want to be shoving a 2nd samurai onto a trailer with a bobcat, when the owner forgets to put the tow rig in gear, causing the whole mess to roll forward into another broken down pos causing headlights to be broken.
Doesn't even need to get that stupid for things to go wrong.

Once you've given some POS seller the money he has no incentive not to wad shit up loading.
 
Doesn't even need to get that stupid for things to go wrong.

Once you've given some POS seller the money he has no incentive not to wad shit up loading.

pos seller was long gone and wiped out Projectjunkie gate post when dropping off the samurai. He was nice enough to store them for like 6 months and then my dumbass left my truck in nuetral
 
So update to this thread.

I finely got hold of the guy with the boat and he says he knows the engine runs. He said that he put a lot of money in a rebuild about 30 hours before he parked it. I asked if he has started it and he says he won’t start it because the wet pump needs a new impeller. I did some research and he’s right. The net says replace the impeller about every 4 years whether you need it or not. They are famous for disintegration and sending bits all through the cooling system. I can see on utube it’s a bitch if that happens.

Back to the problem, he’s selling a boat that is a good price if it runs even if I have to replace the impeller. But it’s not a good price if I have to rebuild the engine. I have heard a lot of stories of fresh rebuilds throwing a rod after a short time, so his assertion “it ran great when parked” isn’t much help.

I still like the boat. Replacing the impeller is not hard depending on the access. Should I offer to replace it for free? (If he pays for the part)

I don’t think he will ever sell it like it is. So I don’t have to rush. But I have a couple other boats that are not as nice that are less expensive. (But they run) Money burning hole in my pocket.

One has a bad lower unit. This is easy to replace, but cost a grand just for the part. He obviously hit something bad. The boat still runs fine, but the housing is cracked and the internet says it has to be replaced. Should I think there’s something else wrong with it since it hit some so bad?

Another boat has a bad gamble bearing. Not too bad to replace, but the boat needs paint. Very good price.

It’s funny, there seems to be lots of good boats up in TN and KY for good prices. But a long drive to go look.
if the guy wants to get running condition money for it, it needs to run.

I'd strike a deal contingent on it running with new impeller with no other new non-disclosed issues appearing after it runs before you invest the effort of doing the work.

but if the guy is too lazy to change the impeller, what other lurking deferred maintenance is there or has there been in the past.

Bad gimbal bearing is likely due to leaking exhaust bellows, and can snowball into soggy transom, rotten motor mounts and shaft/flywheel coupler alignment issues. It's an easy job, about like a timing belt replacement is an easy job; can be a pretty deep scope creep.

Much like 'AC just need a charge', those 'easy fixes' can possibly be hiding a multitude of sins..
 
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When was the impeller done last? Yes it should be done every 3 years. No it's not going to snap off all it's fins after 3 years one day. Unless it's been like 10+ years there's no problem running it briefly on a hose.
And if it has been 10+years when's the last time he did the rest of the maintenance
 
when's the last time he did the rest of the maintenance

Perfectly on schedule, before he parked it for 10yr. :flipoff2:


Boats tend to sit for years before people come to terms with the fact that they're not gonna use it. Regardless of if it's been well maintained up until that point it's gonna need the usual shit that something that sits will need.
 
When was the impeller done last? Yes it should be done every 3 years. No it's not going to snap off all it's fins after 3 years one day. Unless it's been like 10+ years there's no problem running it briefly on a hose.
And if it has been 10+years when's the last time he did the rest of the maintenance
Everything has sat for over 10 years.
 
Perfectly on schedule, before he parked it for 10yr. :flipoff2:


Boats tend to sit for years before people come to terms with the fact that they're not gonna use it. Regardless of if it's been well maintained up until that point it's gonna need the usual shit that something that sits will need.

Everything has sat for over 10 years.

Boats also sit for years before people come to terms with they will never replace the engine with a hole in the block, then the realized the batteries and bilge pump died, boat filled with rain water and submerged the engine.
Pressure wash it all, then sell it as "ran fine at some point" just needs a 20$ part. No you can't run it. Just trust me.

If your worried about the water pump fins run it without water. Your replacing the impeller anyway doesn't matter if it melts. A couple seconds won't melt it though
 
Sold my ole green civic that was running like shit. Finally came to terms it needed to go as we are moving. Had it listed for like 500 and some mexi kid offered 350. Sold!

Whats wrong with it? I told him my thoughts, engine light indicating o2 system issues blah blah.... Got a message later that day or next, "no compression on cylinder 4." Huh, no shit? Probably why it burnt a shit ton of oil?? I honestly didnt know but whatever...


Go and pop in the money at the ATM a couple days later, fucker gave me 250. :laughing: :homer:
 
karma for fucking you out of $100 but you should have checked the money on that before you walked away..

only time i put the cash in my pocket without checking is if it's someone I have worked with before and I know they wont dick me over..
 
karma for fucking you out of $100 but you should have checked the money on that before you walked away..
Absolutely right, but in all reality I just needed it gone and any money to watch it drive away is fine with me.

That reminds me, need to cancel insurance on it. :homer:
 
Sellers are full of shit or have no idea what the hell they’re talking about. Even if someone told them exactly what was wrong with it they won’t remember it right or too afraid to tell the truth.

01 wj that guy paid 800 for, but should have been 400. the seller had a laundry list of “just needs this. It just needs that”

Shockingly the AC really just needed a charge. Sure there's green stains all over the compressor but it’s still holding and summer is near gone. :laughing: I’m just glad the blend door motors n flaps work.
 
Boats also sit for years before people come to terms with they will never replace the engine with a hole in the block, then the realized the batteries and bilge pump died, boat filled with rain water and submerged the engine.
Pressure wash it all, then sell it as "ran fine at some point" just needs a 20$ part. No you can't run it. Just trust me.

If your worried about the water pump fins run it without water. Your replacing the impeller anyway doesn't matter if it melts. A couple seconds won't melt it though
The impeller doesn’t melt, it brakes up into a bunch of pieces that clog up the cooling system. There’s a couple videos of guys cleaning out their systems and still not getting it all. I have thought about removing the belt to run it for a bit. I was also thinking of removing the hose from the raw water pump to the standard water pump. Than I could feed water to that pump and run it longer. I don’t know what all I could tell in running it for a minute or two anyways. I guess an obvious rod knock.

In reality, if I’m paying for a running boat, I should drive the boat, not just run the motor.

I really don’t understand why the raw water pump is designed with a rubber impeller that breaks up. Obviously, they’ve know about this problem for years. How hard is it to make a pump that doesn’t fail catastrophically?

Anyways, I made plans to go see the boat a second time and he made excuses. I think I’m going to pass on it. Probably boats are going to get a lot cheaper in a month as summer winds down.
 
The impeller doesn’t melt, it brakes up into a bunch of pieces that clog up the cooling system. There’s a couple videos of guys cleaning out their systems and still not getting it all. I have thought about removing the belt to run it for a bit. I was also thinking of removing the hose from the raw water pump to the standard water pump. Than I could feed water to that pump and run it longer. I don’t know what all I could tell in running it for a minute or two anyways. I guess an obvious rod knock.

In reality, if I’m paying for a running boat, I should drive the boat, not just run the motor.

I really don’t understand why the raw water pump is designed with a rubber impeller that breaks up. Obviously, they’ve know about this problem for years. How hard is it to make a pump that doesn’t fail catastrophically?

Anyways, I made plans to go see the boat a second time and he made excuses. I think I’m going to pass on it. Probably boats are going to get a lot cheaper in a month as summer winds down.
it melts if you run it without water.
But if your worried about the fins breaking off and plan on replacing the impeller anyways fire it up without water. If theres no water, they cant snap off and get stuck in the cooling system. Obviously the motor will over heat, but thatll let you run it for enough seconds to know if its missing or knocking.
The water pump designs isnt a problem unless you dont maintain your boat.
 
The water pump designs isnt a problem unless you dont maintain your boat.

I don’t maintain my cars/trucks and the water pumps don’t fail catastrophically. They just start leaking or running hotter. Plenty of time to get it home and replace the pump. In one of the videos, they replaced the impeller after two years “just because” and found a 1/2” chunk off one corner. (They didn’t find the piece) Is it a bunch of little pieces or is it making a hot spot in the motor?
 
I don’t maintain my cars/trucks and the water pumps don’t fail catastrophically. They just start leaking or running hotter. Plenty of time to get it home and replace the pump. In one of the videos, they replaced the impeller after two years “just because” and found a 1/2” chunk off one corner. (They didn’t find the piece) Is it a bunch of little pieces or is it making a hot spot in the motor?
You also aren't sucking barnacle chunks through your water pump.

It needs to be positive displacement to suck up water when you launch with an air pocket in the raw water system. It needs to be flexible to handle the garbage that might go through it without breaking. That pretty much leads you directly to rubber. They're like $10-50 and four bolts to replace, not a big deal.
 
I really don’t understand why the raw water pump is designed with a rubber impeller that breaks up. Obviously, they’ve know about this problem for years. How hard is it to make a pump that doesn’t fail catastrophically?
Raw water pump impellers get swapped out when they get run dry(deckhand or captain forgot to open the seachest valve and melt or after a certain hour mark at my last job. I believe it was 500hrs.
 
I don’t maintain my cars/trucks and the water pumps don’t fail catastrophically.
Difference between some different design philosophies.
I'm finding this out in the BMW world at the moment. Gotta replace pretty much everything as part as preventative maintenance.
When you're used to a GM water pump that lasts 400k miles, it's a hard pill to swallow, but it is what it is.
 
They're like $10-50 and four bolts to replace, not a big deal.
Not a big deal if it’s on top of the motor. One of the videos I watched had it under the engine and the engine was mounted in a hole.

Oh, and Bidenomics has hit impellers too. ($136)
 
I always count money in front of whoever hands it to me.
I always do with the exception of when I plow snow in the canyon for neighbors after a big storm. I need to clear the roads down to the county road anyway, and once I have that done I will tackle other roads and driveways in our part of the canyon.

I have been handed cash by neighbors for clearing snow and I am grateful for anything towards diesel and running costs. I have been given anything from a bottle of Makers Mark (a very large bottle) to $900. !! It did take me two full days to clear Al’s road and drive, about a mile or so, after the March 21 storm.

I don’t charge when I bury horses either but I always seem to get paid somehow either in cash or gifts. I just cannot in good conscience charge someone to bury a horse that has been part of the family for years. Even when someone is struggling financially, other neighbors have given me cash for helping out. I would have done it free of charge regardless - but would not want to offend either by refusing payment of sorts.

Our canyon extends about 8 miles or so, sometimes these burials take 3 or 4 hours of my time.

If I do regular dirt work then they all know my hourly rate up front, sometimes payable in beer or bourbon for small jobs. Of course it bites me in the ass occasionally - cut a sidewall on the backhoe drive axle doing a $350 drain clear out and replacing the tire(s) will now cost close to $3k
 
Not a big deal if it’s on top of the motor. One of the videos I watched had it under the engine and the engine was mounted in a hole.

Oh, and Bidenomics has hit impellers too. ($136)
That's why you don't buy a I/O.
Just wait until the starter or oil pan rust out because they are constantly sitting in salt water and then you have to pull the engine and the manufacturer didn't think about that so you have to cut the deck.
 
That's why you don't buy a I/O.
Just wait until the starter or oil pan rust out because they are constantly sitting in salt water and then you have to pull the engine and the manufacturer didn't think about that so you have to cut the deck.
That reminds me, I fucking love how simple inboards are.

Engine, right out in the open once you lift the cover. Transmission is basically a simplified automatic trans with one gear. Simple shaft and bearings from there on out.
 
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