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NEC questions (home panel swap)

it goes into concrete in front and the others on the side of the wall

no way to fix unless rerunning everything through walls, which could be a huge project

some other stuff required for grounding, lightning protection
 
fordguy said:
it goes into concrete in front and the others on the side of the wall

no way to fix unless rerunning everything through walls, which could be a huge project

some other stuff required for grounding, lightning protection
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Yeah. Not buying it. I've done many service upgrades on stucco exteriors and that's hack. Your electrician is a hack. Sorry for the news.
 
Well, the inspector (in a nice suburb area, who was pretty anal) said it was a pretty nice job, so therr is that

stucco quoted at 400, worth it or DIY?
 
fordguy said:
I didnt want to involve the power co, because then a permit will be required, inspections, and 99% chance a licensed electrician.

My problem with those guys is, theyre one man operation with some rather basic knowledge (much less than even a mechanic) who think their rate is about right at 2000+/half a day. Motherfucker I run a business and dont make that much a day, your shit worth that much, go fuck yourself. 2000 is not even permitted - no permit, no receipt, no stucco or drywall work. No thanks. Anyway, rant over, doing this myself.
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My house has the setup there the overhead from the street comes to the house , is anchored and then loops down and goes inside the exterior wall , then goes halfway around the house in the attic , drops down to the meter , which is recessed into the wall, then goes to the main panel in the house


We discovered a Yellowjackets nest in the wall where the wire from the street went into the wall .

I wanted to get up there and kill it and seal the hole but wasn’t comfortable doing it with the line energized

I called the po co and they made an appointment for them to come out and drop the overhead line , and gave me a direct number to call and have them come back and re connect it as long as I called before 4 pm they said they would come back writhing the hour and reconnect

Which is what we did

The poco didn’t ask any questions and there was no permit or city inspector involved



TLDR

Don’t tell
The poco you need the line dropped for electrical work .

Tell them you need it dropped for a new gutter install or some other home maintenance


A few years later when we were adding on , The poco also came out and dropped the line for the crane to lift the roof trusses in .

No questions asked and no permits no city inspectors etc
 
not undsrstanding whats half ass

the conduit is going into concrete in the ground, or outside the wall all the way up

No way to redo it unless tearing the wall apart to put conduit inside or breaking the oncrete and rerunning conduit into the wall

instead of calling it a hack job, please be so kind ro circle the problem area and proposed easy solution, I would love to know

Hired a bonded licensed guy to do it permitted and still not good enough for you fuckers.

genuinely curious though because Id love to know, and if I do indeed see he sucked, I wont use him again

p.s. the other quotes I got were 5000 for everything including stucco and 2500 panel only unpermitted no stucco. Pretty sure it wouldnt be any different of result
 
roundhouse said:
No questions asked and no permits no city inspectors etc
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i should have done it unpermitted

but my first house and I didnt want to be turned down for insurance for a potential fire or anything because no permit, so went this route. Lesson learned!
 
Moar questions

sub panel, is in wall flush mount preferred or exterior is fine? Studs are either too wide or too narrow for this size box. I would need to open uo the drywall to run the conduit up, unless I run flex? Is it worth the effort, or slap the exterior one and send it?

thanks, knowledgeable bros.
 

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My dad's is flush mount, he then added conduits in the wall to add circuits at a later date, after the wall is finished.
 
question

wir3d a 100a subpanel

used 2/2/2/4 service wire

connected neutrals and two legs

what do i use the 4th for? it says ground online, but ground is bonded at the main panel, so how is ground wire different than neutral?
 
fordguy said:
question

wir3d a 100a subpanel

used 2/2/2/4 service wire

connected neutrals and two legs

what do i use the 4th for? it says ground online, but ground is bonded at the main panel, so how is ground wire different than neutral?
Click to expand...

That bond at the main pnl should be the only place neutral and ground are bonded together. In your sub pnl the neutral will be isolated from ground. So to answer your question, the 4th wire is your ground wire.
 
Animalmother said:
That bond at the main pnl should be the only place neutral and ground are bonded together. In your sub pnl the neutral will be isolated from ground. So to answer your question, the 4th wire is your ground wire.
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ok, so where does the ground wire from sub hook up in the main panel? to the neutral bus bar? because thats where the ground is hooked to

sorry for question
 
fordguy said:
ok, so where does the ground wire from sub hook up in the main panel? to the neutral bus bar? because thats where the ground is hooked to

sorry for question
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yes since thats where you said your neutral/ ground bond is made. They shouldn’t be connected anywhere downstream from there though
 
fordguy said:
thanks! seemed reduntant to me.
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Yeah its not. The neutral is a current carrying conductor and part of the circuit. Thats why its insulated. The ground never should carry current unless there is a fault. If you bond them downstream you are introducing voltage onto all of your metal components that are bonded to ground and making them part of the circuit. Metal enclosures, conduits, metal structures, ect.
 
but if ground from sub carries current to the main panel,, where its bonded to neutral, doesnt that current now exist everywhere thats connected to the neutral? or no, because it goes into the grounding rod and never energizes the neutral line?

Also when current flowes through the neutral, what separates it flowing through the main service wire, vs the grounding rod?

Dont expect you to answer as you already helped, but this question was beating me up for two months (i have my sub up and running, minus the ground wire)
 
Current always takes the most efficient path back to the source.

Without your 'ground' wire (bond) hooked up at the shop, you now run the risk of a short not tripping anything, and making your metallic enclosures a touch/shock hazard. :shocked:
 
u2slow said:
Current always takes the most efficient path back to the source.

Without your 'ground' wire (bond) hooked up at the shop, you now run the risk of a short not tripping anything, and making your metallic enclosures a touch/shock hazard. :shocked:
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so whats to stop neutral current on the main panel from going into the ground versus the neutral wire back through the main service entrance?

i is elec stupid
 
fordguy said:
but if ground from sub carries current to the main panel,
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It doesnt.

The ground isnt connected across the load. There is no current on the ground wire if wired correctly. Its job is too bond all metal non current carrying components together and trip the breaker if for some reason a phase conductor makes contact with something it shouldn’t.
 
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