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NEC questions (home panel swap)

solid or stranded? all i could find is stranded in 14ga at home depot
 
Doesn't really matter. 98% of the #14 and #12 I've pulled into conduit is solid. #10 is about 50/50 solid vs stranded.
 
Thanks boys. Wiring up some 4ft garage lights, they are 20w each so 14ga should be plenty. Also need to run a dedicated cable for the jenny compressor (110v).

If I am tapping off a circuit thats ran back to a 20a fuse, which I think should be 12 awg, and I go to 14ga because I only have 4 20w lamps, am I in violation by having any 14ga in that circuit?
 
fordguy said:
Thanks boys. Wiring up some 4ft garage lights, they are 20w each so 14ga should be plenty. Also need to run a dedicated cable for the jenny compressor (110v).

If I am tapping off a circuit thats ran back to a 20a fuse, which I think should be 12 awg, and I go to 14ga because I only have 4 20w lamps, am I in violation by having any 14ga in that circuit?
Click to expand...
IIRC - Yes. The breaker/fuse has to be the device with the lowest current carrying capability. There are SOME exceptions, but I would not do it.

you can use 12ga on a 15A and no one will care..
 
thanks, not dicking with 12ga for a 20w light so Ill put this on a 15a breaker I guess.
 
I not going to read the whole thread... But this is something new:stirthepot::stirthepot::stirthepot:

The 2023 NEC® is permitting a new branch circuit rated at 10 amperes. This new ampere rating will allow for better overload protection of circuits with LED lighting. Because LED loads are often very efficient with minimal current draw, it is important to lower the ratings to better protect these circuits from potential overloads that m


dailyreporter.com

10 amp branch circuits

Of all the significant changes proposed in the 2023 National Electrical Code, the introduction of the new 10-amp branch circuit seems to be quite significant.
dailyreporter.com dailyreporter.com
 
billdacat said:
I not going to read the whole thread... But this is something new:stirthepot::stirthepot::stirthepot:

The 2023 NEC® is permitting a new branch circuit rated at 10 amperes. This new ampere rating will allow for better overload protection of circuits with LED lighting. Because LED loads are often very efficient with minimal current draw, it is important to lower the ratings to better protect these circuits from potential overloads that m


dailyreporter.com

10 amp branch circuits

Of all the significant changes proposed in the 2023 National Electrical Code, the introduction of the new 10-amp branch circuit seems to be quite significant.
dailyreporter.com dailyreporter.com
Click to expand...


makes sense?
 
billdacat said:
I not going to read the whole thread... But this is something new:stirthepot::stirthepot::stirthepot:

The 2023 NEC® is permitting a new branch circuit rated at 10 amperes. This new ampere rating will allow for better overload protection of circuits with LED lighting. Because LED loads are often very efficient with minimal current draw, it is important to lower the ratings to better protect these circuits from potential overloads that m


dailyreporter.com

10 amp branch circuits

Of all the significant changes proposed in the 2023 National Electrical Code, the introduction of the new 10-amp branch circuit seems to be quite significant.
dailyreporter.com dailyreporter.com
Click to expand...
My city LOCAL code, won't let you run anything smaller than #12 wire. There are no 15 amp circuits here, Just to show that some jurisdictions do some weird shit.
 
fordguy said:
makes sense?
Click to expand...

Sounds good on the surface maybe.

The current UL/CSA standards force the LED product to be safe on at least a 15A circuit, probably 20A in the USA. So if Code mandates 10A lighting circuits, the product can be 'cheapened'. There's still no word that anything less than #14 NM-B/NMD90 is going to fly.

What sounds better to me is LED lighting that is native DC, and run it over POE. A good portion of LED failure is driver-related, and the rectifier is a big part of that.
 
grumpy356 said:
My city LOCAL code, won't let you run anything smaller than #12 wire. There are no 15 amp circuits here, Just to show that some jurisdictions do some weird shit.
Click to expand...

what the hell?

12ga is a lot for a 20w bulb.
 
u2slow said:
Sounds good on the surface maybe.

The current UL/CSA standards force the LED product to be safe on at least a 15A circuit, probably 20A in the USA. So if Code mandates 10A lighting circuits, the product can be 'cheapened'. There's still no word that anything less than #14 NM-B/NMD90 is going to fly.

What sounds better to me is LED lighting that is native DC, and run it over POE. A good portion of LED failure is driver-related, and the rectifier is a big part of that.
Click to expand...
Low voltage lighting is coming, but it's stuck in the commercial space for now.
 
u2slow said:
Sounds good on the surface maybe.

The current UL/CSA standards force the LED product to be safe on at least a 15A circuit, probably 20A in the USA. So if Code mandates 10A lighting circuits, the product can be 'cheapened'. There's still no word that anything less than #14 NM-B/NMD90 is going to fly.

What sounds better to me is LED lighting that is native DC, and run it over POE. A good portion of LED failure is driver-related, and the rectifier is a big part of that.
Click to expand...
That sounds interesting... I have been really happy with 12V strip lights. They are controled with a dimmable 12V power supply that is pluged into a Kasa dimmable smart switch. The shit works great! Power supply and dimmer are very robust.... I run the 12V over 16 or 18ga wire.

I have had shitty luck with LED controllers. They last a year or so before they start acting up. I like a single color LED (no need to change colors).
 
ApeEater said:
Low voltage lighting is coming, but it's stuck in the commercial space for now.
Click to expand...


Uh, I've probably installed miles of LED strip in houses. :flipoff2:

Last one I did had 78 low voltage drivers. If I only have 10-15 it means there's barely anything.

Most of it is inside cabinets or under for countertop, and the underside of floating stair treads to light up the 3 and 4 story stair cases.
 

billdacat said:
That sounds interesting... I have been really happy with 12V strip lights. They are controled with a dimmable 12V power supply that is pluged into a Kasa dimmable smart switch. The shit works great! Power supply and dimmer are very robust.... I run the 12V over 16 or 18ga wire.
Click to expand...

For a smaller area, 12v is fine. Making DC from AC at many points is what gets silly.

I figure 24v minimum to comfortably get around a house or shop on a single power supply. The latest saucer-disc things I'm installing, the driver is making 32vdc.
 
So I found a guy to do it permitted for 2400 (plus 190 for permits), no stucco

I could tell even he didnt like doing it permitted because the inspector was nosy asking questions, but the panel was approved.

Next they need to come out and inspect stucco i two stages - fuck! I thought only panel and I could half ass the stucco, guess not.

I do have an exterior door thst will need it as well, so maybe l look for someone


Question, I need to run a 220v 40a circuit using 6 gauge, but to have two outets (one inside garage and one outside).

6 Gauge is pretty thick, how can I split it up properly? Do I need a separate junction box before the outlets, breaking the 6awg from panel into the two outlets, assuming?
 

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Holy fuck hack shit. The fuck? You can tell you only paid 2400 for that. Sorry bro.

Like wtf is that mc doing down there and wtf is with that emt like that? He couldn't do a couple fuckin lb's or some shit. Just wtf.
 
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