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NEC questions (home panel swap)

fordguy

blah.
Joined
Nov 24, 2022
Member Number
5787
Messages
277
The conduit coming out of the ground with the main power is pretty high. If I put a 40 space breaker panel on, the highest breaker will be over the 6'7 maximum height. The top of the conduit is inside the house wall, and threaded on top.

What is the right thing to do in this case? It looks to be 2" at the very least.

Even if I go with 30 spaces, it still makes the top breaker too tall.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
Step?
Click to expand...

afaik you cannot have a panel over stairs, I would assume steps be the same

NTC, will look that up. Not sure how Id cut it eith wires inside?

I was also thinking a meter box and disconnect, and panel next to it, possiboy inside the garage even
 
Cut the conduit, add the "ntc" (union) and trim the wires in the box?


I'm assuming you're pulling the meter before doing any of this :homer:
 
Large junction box piped to a panel in a different location. Probably could use the existing panel and blank off the spaces.
 
fordguy said:
afaik you cannot have a panel over stairs, I would assume steps be the same

NTC, will look that up. Not sure how Id cut it eith wires inside?

I was also thinking a meter box and disconnect, and panel next to it, possiboy inside the garage even
Click to expand...

Is it emt, rigid, or PVC? If it's PVC or emt then go to harbor freight and pick up the cheap chain tail pipe cutter and go to work on it. If it's rigid, use the tail pipe cutter and get about half way through. Then stick a piece of 1.5" emt or whatever over the wires and down the pipe and go to work on the pipe with whatever metal cutting blade on your sawzall or multi tool. You only have to get through enough of it on the sides and front then you can bust the rest of since you scribed it with the tailpipe cutter.
 
yozsi said:
Is it emt, rigid, or PVC? If it's PVC or emt then go to harbor freight and pick up the cheap chain tail pipe cutter and go to work on it. If it's rigid, use the tail pipe cutter and get about half way through. Then stick a piece of 1.5" emt or whatever over the wires and down the pipe and go to work on the pipe with whatever metal cutting blade on your sawzall or multi tool. You only have to get through enough of it on the sides and front then you can bust the rest of since you scribed it with the tailpipe cutter.
Click to expand...
Well...............
Personally, I don't really recommend that.
If you're swapping out your Main Panel, your power provider is gonna be involved. Have them kill your primary, do your swap and re-energize.

We don't really need an IBB DRT

Edit
Or at least make sure the video is top quality :flipoff2:
 
Bogus One said:
Well...............
Personally, I don't really recommend that.
If you're swapping out your Main Panel, your power provider is gonna be involved. Have them kill your primary, do your swap and re-energize.

We don't really need an IBB DRT

Edit
Or at least make sure the video is top quality :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
Where the fuck did I say for him to do it hot? I do this method like 1-2 times a month for main panel swaps and service upgrades.
 
Bogus One said:
Sorry,
Guess I just read that into it

:homer:
Click to expand...
No biggie, I'll usually just go to the Christy box and pull the conductors out of the Polaris connectors. That way I don't even have to deal with the douche bag poco guys. Overhead is even easier. Just cut at the crimp.
 
Bogus One said:
Well...............
Personally, I don't really recommend that.
If you're swapping out your Main Panel, your power provider is gonna be involved. Have them kill your primary, do your swap and re-energize.

We don't really need an IBB DRT

Edit
Or at least make sure the video is top quality :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

I didnt want to involve the power co, because then a permit will be required, inspections, and 99% chance a licensed electrician.

My problem with those guys is, theyre one man operation with some rather basic knowledge (much less than even a mechanic) who think their rate is about right at 2000+/half a day. Motherfucker I run a business and dont make that much a day, your shit worth that much, go fuck yourself. 2000 is not even permitted - no permit, no receipt, no stucco or drywall work. No thanks. Anyway, rant over, doing this myself.
 
fordguy said:
I didnt want to involve the power co, because then a permit will be required, inspections, and 99% chance a licensed electrician.

My problem with those guys is, theyre one man operation with some rather basic knowledge (much less than even a mechanic) who think their rate is about right at 2000+/half a day. Motherfucker I run a business and dont make that much a day, your shit worth that much, go fuck yourself. 2000 is not even permitted - no permit, no receipt, no stucco or drywall work. No thanks. Anyway, rant over, doing this myself.
Click to expand...
Edit
Or at least make sure the video is top quality :flipoff2:
 
yozsi said:
No biggie, I'll usually just go to the Christy box and pull the conductors out of the Polaris connectors. That way I don't even have to deal with the douche bag poco guys. Overhead is even easier. Just cut at the crimp.
Click to expand...

learned a bunch of new stuff in your post, thanks! Last panel I swapped was overhead, and I did it live
 
the panel
 

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M92PV4U said:
And yet they make $500 an hour, wile you make?...

:flipoff2:
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do they tho? Or do they sit without work most of the time because they are $$ and then try to make the weeks paycheck in half a day?

We need a freelancer.com or uship for this type of shit.
 
If no permit, then being particular about the panel height is moot. It's probably going to drop to 5'7" max soon for accessibility reasons. I'd want the panel inside too.

If you had to deal with the permit process, PoCo, etc you'd want $2k min. for the fuss also, as it often spills over into multiple days, and you can't effectively plan other small jobs around it. Then some new inspector rejects the job on BS, and chase that for another day. Fuck it - I don't/won't do that anymore. Punch the clock and run away when my shift is over, thanks :flipoff2:
 
u2slow said:
If you had to deal with the permit process, PoCo, etc you'd want $2k min. for the fuss also, as it often spills over into multiple days
Click to expand...

2k is no permit

5k was permit (from a different guy)

fuck those assholes
 
fordguy said:
2k is no permit

5k was permit (from a different guy)

fuck those assholes
Click to expand...

There's risk (legal/regulatory) in doing permit-work without the permit. $2k is still a bargain over $5k. I'm a cheap-ass DIY'er at heart, but was also a contractor until I got fed up, so I see it both ways.
 
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