My bathroom renovation

[Firstram]

Lots of good tile info on this site. https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/

Read up on structural requirements for natural stone. When I remodeled our bath, I planed the tops of the 2x8 joists flat, doubled them up and installed 2 layers of 5/8" sub floor. It's rock solid! We used a Crema something or other 12x12 marble, it feels awesome under foot, but is on the floor only.

Beautiful vanity!

 

[Deuce 40s]

Linear drain would be installed up against the back wall.... slope the floor starting just outside the shower.... you end up with only 2 planes on the floor.. enabling you to run larger format tile into your shower.... only break being at the slope change!!!! Center drain you have to use smaller tiles to follow the contour..... curbless is awesome.... curbless and linear drain awesomer!!!!
That basket weave tile is a great look though!!!

From my understanding with the linear drain, the high point for the slope is higher than the high point for the center drain. That was our main concern, we wanted this shower as low as possible without getting into the floor joists.

 

[Deuce 40s]

Bad ass vanity! I have done construction for a large part of my life, and this is the first custom vanity that I have really liked!

I really like the vanity.

Read up on structural requirements for natural stone.

Beautiful vanity!

Thanks fellas! I'm not terribly concerned about the structure supporting the new bathroom. My floor joists are 2x10s. What I took out was much heavier. The original shower package was close to 2500 lbs with the old tile, cast iron tub and glass doors.

 

[Deuce 40s]

Sounds like you understand the positive and negatives of living with natural stone.
here’s one that we finish and we’re really disappointed in the varied discoloration!!!
its in the corner of the back wall and the plumbing wall but hard to see in the pics. Look at the floor though and it’s glaring!!!
Ask any questions you want... I can even pm my number if you’d like.

That discoloration is pretty drastic. Does it dry out and match the others at any point? I know marble is very porous and there's a few products that help seal it. The white marble countertops in our kitchen will absorb some water if left to sit and get darker, but they clear up in a few hours. I hope with our lighter color tile choice ours won't be as noticeable if it does change colors.

 

[Deleted Member]

Thanks fellas! I'm not terribly concerned about the structure supporting the new bathroom. My floor joists are 2x10s. What I took out was much heavier. The original shower package was close to 2500 lbs with the old tile, cast iron tub and glass doors.

You'll be fine... I have 2x12's on 16oc, super stable. 2x10's are just fine.

 

[Gregj50!!!!!]

seems like there's probably some way to seal it right?
I mean, if you can seal concrete it seems like you should be able to seal natural stone.

You can seal it All you want..... showers that our used daily never really dry out... most people don’t realize water gets behind the tile so even if you seal it, it’s gonna be wet behind it.....which makes me wonder if sealing might make it worse because it would trap in the moisture behind the tile!!!!

Natural stone can be a nightmare if you don’t appreciate it for what it is!!!! Same thing with people wanting real wood floors ....then freak out at the first scratch.... it’s fking wood!!!!!!

 

[Gregj50!!!!!]

That discoloration is pretty drastic. Does it dry out and match the others at any point? I know marble is very porous and there's a few products that help seal it. The white marble countertops in our kitchen will absorb some water if left to sit and get darker, but they clear up in a few hours. I hope with our lighter color tile choice ours won't be as noticeable if it does change colors.

See above... I tried multi quote and failed!!!!
:shrug:

 

[Gregj50!!!!!]

From my understanding with the linear drain, the high point for the slope is higher than the high point for the center drain. That was our main concern, we wanted this shower as low as possible without getting into the floor joists.

Linear drain is definitely more Prep work than a center drain...if the installer is using the foam system he only needs 3/4” fall in a 3’ wide shower... which you created by recessing your sub-floor between the joist!!!
To do a pvc lined shower you’d have to drop the shower floor 4” to get pre slope, liner and final slope.
either is worth it to me.... I’m just not a fan of these “new” foam systems!!!!
one example... those small 1x2 marble pieces.. how many lb’s per sq. Inch to push one of those through that foam pan???

 

[Deuce 40s]

one example... those small 1x2 marble pieces.. how many lb’s per sq. Inch to push one of those through that foam pan???

That's an interesting thought. The tiler said this comes with a lifetime warranty though, for whatever that's worth. I need to see details on what a lifetime warranty means.

 

[rockmup]

Lots of good tile info on this site. https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/

Read up on structural requirements for natural stone. When I remodeled our bath, I planed the tops of the 2x8 joists flat, doubled them up and installed 2 layers of 5/8" sub floor. It's rock solid! We used a Crema something or other 12x12 marble, it feels awesome under foot, but is on the floor only.

Beautiful vanity!

This. Spend the time to do a lot of reading and ask questions. Use the load calculator and other tools they have. Great source of information.
They never dry out and there is a lot of discussion of that very tile for use in bathroom showers on that forum.

I've built hundreds of cabinets but have never done flush mounts, I love that look and need to do our master bath. Will probably copy that style. Very nice

 

[Deuce 40s]

This. Spend the time to do a lot of reading and ask questions. Use the load calculator and other tools they have. Great source of information.
They never dry out and there is a lot of discussion of that very tile for use in bathroom showers on that forum.

I've built hundreds of cabinets but have never done flush mounts, I love that look and need to do our master bath. Will probably copy that style. Very nice

I've been reading over there a few hours now. They really don't like the tile we've chosen for the shower floor. I'm meeting with a stone guy this afternoon and see what he says. Maybe there's a ceramic or porcelain alternative that would be better.

I also read that there should be two layers of plywood above the floor joists when using natural stone tiles. That's good to know.

The difficulty in flush mount drawers lies in getting your face frames built identically. That's incredibly difficult.

 

[Clb]

Your millwork is FAR superior to the lazy azz plumbers!
Fukin set the pipe IN THE WALL shit.
How hard is it to drill the plate and studwall centered!
Build the hell outta the sub floor.
Just my .02

 

[Deuce 40s]

Well we pondered the marble vs porcelain for a week and decided on marble. We looked at a lot of porcelain samples and they just don't have a realistic look. The stone guy who is building the countertop tried to steer us away from marble for the same reasons everyone else did.

To help mitigate probable issues, we're sealing the fuck out of the marble before any grout is applied. Then sealing again after the grout. I have a feeling most who install marble do not seal prior to grouting?

The marble countertop he's building will look similar to this, with a shelf but without the divider. The faucets look just like what we're using also.

We'd like to incorporate a bench of some kind in there. This may be what we go with:

 

[Deuce 40s]

I had the shower glass company over yesterday to look at my reinforcements and see if anything else needs to be done. They're good with what I did for the door hinges but I need to add blocking in the ceiling. Since the glass walls will extend all the way to the ceiling, they will use ceiling clips instead of wall clips. I have to decide on 3/8" or 1/2" glass at a cost difference of about $300. I'm leaning towards 1/2".

We're also including a transom above the door to get the steam out, similar to the bench picture above and:

These pictures show glass retention using clips and "tracks". What is the preference these days?

 

[NOTHINGWILLCHANGELANCE]

good luck with marble.

 

[Pony_Driver]

That is an awesome project. I don't envy anyone demoing an old bathroom like that. I did a 7.5x9' bathroom that was mostly tile (floor, entire shower, and 1/2 of all the walls except what was behind the vanity) and holy cow was it a lot of work.

 

[Squamch]

I hope you have one kick ass fan, and plans for using a really good paint, or that transom is going to end up causing mildew issues.

Good luck with the marble, I am a fan of the look of natural stone, but not the performance. Like !!! Said, it never really dries out, your grout ends up mildew-ing, doesn't matter how much sealer you pour on it. Same goes for any tiled shower floor though really, no one ever stays up on maintenance.

 

[Deuce 40s]

I hope you have one kick ass fan, and plans for using a really good paint, or that transom is going to end up causing mildew issues.

I've been researching fans a lot lately. The current fan is inadequate. Right now I'm leaning towards a remote mount fan pulling a minimum of 300cfm, 6" diameter, and placing the inlet in front of the transom.

Something like these:
https://www.kitchensource.com/range-hoods/sl-td-100.htm

https://www.kitchensource.com/bathroom-fans/fv-nlf1.htm

 

[Firstram]

Install a timer! The remote fans are so quiet you'll forget to turn it off.

 

[Landslide]

Update?

 

[dntsdad]

Install a timer! The remote fans are so quiet you'll forget to turn it off.

Yep
when I did my bathroom I put the fan on a timer. Turn it on and it is set to run for 30 minutes.

Nice work on the cabinet. I hate doing inset doors and drawers but those slides make things really nice even though they cost a fortune

LOVE my Incra lift!! I have their table and WonderFence. Cant imagine a better setup. Incra is top quality stuff.

 

[NOTHINGWILLCHANGELANCE]

Install a timer! The remote fans are so quiet you'll forget to turn it off.

also an option: humidity sensor control. it just runs as long as it needs.

 

[Deuce 40s]

Update?

Thanks for asking. When I tore up the old tile floor and sub floor, there was some old water damage/rot in two floor joists. I sistered new floor joists to the old in the whole room followed by 2 layers of plywood. Now it's perfectly flat and seems to be solid as a rock.

My countertop guy has really slowed down progress otherwise. We went to Raleigh to pick out the marble slab we wanted, which was to be cut into the countertop, shelf pieces, thresholds, transition to hallway and shower bench. Everything was going great until they cut the sink holes in the wrong spot. Now he has to go back to Raleigh to get the sister slab that we held "just in case of fuck ups".

I still don't have the bench yet, although it is built, and I just now got the thresholds. The tile guy can't start until all the pieces are in. I told them to let me get all the tile in place, then I'll set the vanity, and they can come back to get real measurements for the countertop.

Here's the slab we chose:

 

[Deuce 40s]

The vanity and threshold/transition pieces. You can kind of see how offset the sink holes are.

 

[Deuce 40s]

I've been researching fans a lot lately. The current fan is inadequate. Right now I'm leaning towards a remote mount fan pulling a minimum of 300cfm, 6" diameter, and placing the inlet in front of the transom.

Something like these:
https://www.kitchensource.com/range-hoods/sl-td-100.htm

https://www.kitchensource.com/bathroom-fans/fv-nlf1.htm

I ended up buying and installing this:

FG Series Round Inline Exhaust Fan, 6" Duct (483 CFM)
https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/contr...oduct_id=FG6XL

6" x 25' F218 Insulated Flex Duct (Silver Jacket)
https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/contr...oduct_id=27825



I was hesitant to post pictures of my fan installation, buttfuckit. If anyone says it won't work, you can kiss my ass.

The inlet is directly where my finger is covering the lens. The duct is not cut to length or connected to the vent cover yet because I haven't cut a hole in the ceiling. Once it's connected, I'll tidy up the wiring. This was more of a proof of concept to see how well it would work. This thing sucks fierce. It'll suck the duct back in on itself if you don't hold it open.

For the outlet, I really didn't want to cut a hole in the roof. The original bathroom vents in this house are not vented outside so I don't have existing vent holes to utilize. Putting the outlet at the fan seems like a decent compromise. This is an 8' run from the fan to an exit. If I went with a soffit dump instead of the roof, the run would be close to 30'.

Soft mounted with straps to hopefully reduce vibration/noise transmission.

 

[Deuce 40s]

Yep
when I did my bathroom I put the fan on a timer. Turn it on and it is set to run for 30 minutes.

Nice work on the cabinet. I hate doing inset doors and drawers but those slides make things really nice even though they cost a fortune

LOVE my Incra lift!! I have their table and WonderFence. Cant imagine a better setup. Incra is top quality stuff.

I started a thread on the timer aspect, I'm still deciding if I got any information out of it that will work for me or that I can understand.

https://irate4x4.com/chit-chat/38358-delay-off-timer

I'd like all the "timing functions" to be in the attic so only the on/off switch is in the bathroom.


The Incra lift has been a game changer. When I build my new shop I will have a dedicated router table and fence. Sharing space with the table saw is nice for tight quarters, but it gets frustrating. I really want their cast iron table top.

 

[Firstram]

Nice looking stone!

That ducting should work fine. It would be better with the fan mounted vertically, exhaust pointing straight up so you could add a back draft dampener. That will keep unconditioned air from back drafting.

 

[Deuce 40s]

Nice looking stone!

That ducting should work fine. It would be better with the fan mounted vertically, exhaust pointing straight up so you could add a back draft dampener. That will keep unconditioned air from back drafting.

That's good to hear. I'm adding a back draft damper between the vent cover and the duct, right at the ceiling. I already painted it matte black so hopefully it disappears. I can really put it anywhere, but I thought nearest the conditioned air would be best?

https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/control/product/~product_id=BDD6R

 

[Firstram]

Sounds good. They are noisy unless mounted pointing straight up!

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

If you had to cut a hole in the roof, why not straight up?

I suspect it'll be fine though. Just nitpicking, because irate :D