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My bathroom renovation

Deuce 40s

Yogurt Slinger
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
156
Messages
376
Loc
NC
We bought a 1977 house about 3 years ago that was mostly renovated aesthetically in the 90s. Our plans are to renovate the entire house slowly over the next few years as we live in it and figure out what we want. This thread is about the guest bathroom which really hasn't been touched since '77. It needed the most help out of the rest of the house, and it would give us a chance to test subs and ideas before tackling other bathrooms or parts of the house.

Our plans are a full gut down to the studs with new plumbing and new wiring. Marble tile floor and shower, marble counter top on the vanity, two sided glass shower panels and all high end Kohler equipment. I'm doing most of the work myself except for the plumbing and tile. I can do the plumbing, but I want to see what the pros do first to see what's code. :laughing:

I didn't get any before pictures, but you can imagine old subway tile in the shower, cast iron tub, old double vanity and 1990s cheap tile floor.

Popping off the old mirror, didn't break it :smokin:

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Removing the old tile in the shower. There was about 1.5" of mortar on the wire lath. 1700 pounds of tile and mortar were removed from the shower itself.

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Originally we were going to keep the shower footprint exactly as original, with 3 tiled walls and a glass door. However, once I removed all the sheetrock, the wife really like how open the room looked. The partition between the shitter and the shower had to come down.

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To support the weight of the glass panels and glass door hinges, I had to build some stout studs.

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I added insulation to all the walls for sound deadening and installed blocking in the walls for the towel rack, bog roll holder, etc.

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Like I said, I wanted some pro plumbers to remove the old and install everything new. I've used this company in the past for a tankless water heater install, and it went fairly well. However on this job, I'm not happy with how they left the sink vent pipe. It was proud of the wall at least 1.5" and I didn't notice until the next day when I went to pack insulation. I had to go behind them to notch out some more studs so the pipe would sit flush behind the sheetrock.

They also installed a new toilet flange, raised the sink supply to exit above the baseboard, removed the cast iron tub, centered the shower drain under the new shower location, and put the shower head and valve on the right side wall.

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very nice.
looks to be a clean looking bathroom.

Thanks. I hope the final product will be what we're expecting. I'm trying not to sacrifice any quality for cost. I'm not saying "no expense spared", but I want this bathroom to be correct and we have set high standards. Judgement falls on me to perform. :eek:
 
This is the current state of the bathroom. I'm installing crown and baseboard so those joints were left unfinished. The tile guy will install his own concrete board and water proofing membrane in the shower.

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that is hack plumbing if i ever saw it. is that a load bearing wall? those notches are not right at all. You need a stud shoe to retain the stength. https://www.strongtie.com/miscellane...p_wcc/p/hss.ss


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-...-5-R/100375338

It's not load bearing, it's just holding up sheetrock. Those notches were from the original plumbing. The new plumbing was raised about 3 inches for a higher vanity. You can see the lower notch and how far it went into the wall to keep the plumbing flush. I didn't go as deep, but I pulled it in about an inch.
 
what kind of shower pan system are you going to be using?

I can't remember the name of the company the tiler recommended, but we're going with a curbless pan, 63" x 36". A marble threshold will go around the pan between it and the glass panels.

All existing flooring will be removed. Right now there's tile on top of concrete board on 3/4" ply on 1x6 subfloor. I'm ripping everything out to the floor joists. In the shower, the new 3/4" subfloor will be inset of the floor joists and the pan will sit directly on the floor joists. The rest of the bathroom will have the 3/4" on top of the floor joists.
 
The part of the reno I was looking forward to most was building the vanity. We wanted this vanity to be more like a piece of furniture with legs than a typical vanity. The constable wanted all drawers, no cabinets. We've got enough storage space in a hall closet for larger items and cleaning supplies. The size is 62" long, 21" deep and 36" high with the countertop.

I used ash because it's very hard, inexpensive, and has decent grain patterns. It's tough as shit to stain though. The top two rows of drawers will be notched to clear the sinks and plumbing. I won't know how much to notch them until after everything is in place.

The three sconces really dictated placement of everything else. They had to be certain distances from the wall and door and the midpoints determined the sink locations.

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All the lumber. Prefinished 1/2" birch ply for the drawers, unfinished birch for the cabinet carcass and back.

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I glued up the 5 leg blanks, 2 1/2" square, dadoes cut to receive the face frames and make the legs stand proud of the faces evenly everywhere, tapers cut at the bottom.

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Face frames and legs dry fit. One side is against a wall so it's not getting much attention.

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Drawer faces cut and fit.

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I'm trimming the drawer faces and cabinet with what's called "cock beading". :grinpimp: Using ash scraps.

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Great idea recessing the floor....You’re using a linear drain I take it???
we always drop the floor 3-4”s so we can use the pvc liner running up
and behind the cement board.... if he’s only requesting 3/4” recess he’s probably gonna use one of the foam board systems...all are topical cbp waterproofing only, and expensive!!!
just FYI!!!
be careful with that marble choice... we’ve done a few over the years where the customer selects an inexpensive, cheaper marble and once they started showering daily the marble started wicking the water.... changing the color and look of it!!! There are a lot of man made, more stable products
out there.
let me know if you have any questions...
Good luck with your project and looking forward to updates!!!

edit:
woodwork looks Fkn great!!!!
:smokin:
 
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I wish I knew the first thing about this stuff. Impressive to say the least.
 
I'm using Blum undermount soft close drawer slides. These are amazing and fully adjustable for inset drawers.

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Cock beading around the base.

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Awesome project and love your cabinet work. I redid my bathroom couple years ago and am not happy with the crappy sink vanity. I’m going to build my own once I get done with my kitchen, dinning room, utility room and living room.

BTW, I have the same LED work light and powermatic table saw :smokin:
 
How does that cock bead :laughing: :rolleyes: trim out the panels?


I might be stealing your cabinet idea for my bathroom remodel :grinpimp:
 
Great idea recessing the floor....You’re using a linear drain I take it???
we always drop the floor 3-4”s so we can use the pvc liner running up
and behind the cement board.... if he’s only requesting 3/4” recess he’s probably gonna use one of the foam board systems...all are topical cbp waterproofing only, and expensive!!!
just FYI!!!
be careful with that marble choice... we’ve done a few over the years where the customer selects an inexpensive, cheaper marble and once they started showering daily the marble started wicking the water.... changing the color and look of it!!! There are a lot of man made, more stable products
out there.
let me know if you have any questions...
Good luck with your project and looking forward to updates!!!

edit:
woodwork looks Fkn great!!!!
:smokin:

It will be a square center drain, I think that's what you're asking? I assume a foam board system for the curbless pan. I have tons of questions about this tile work. I don't know the first thing about it, all this is new to me.

I know there are great synthetic products, but I'm a geologist during the day and have to have natural stone. Below are the tiles we're going with, all honed Carrara Bianco. I'm not sure if they're inexpensive or not. Marble tile can get pricey for exclusive types. We expect color variations and some staining with use, that's what adds to the character of natural stones. Our kitchen countertops are all marble.

Bathroom and shower floor:
https://www.thebuilderdepot.com/cbh-1x2-bskgd.html

Shower walls:
https://www.thebuilderdepot.com/cacbihoned6x24.html

Baseboard:
https://www.thebuilderdepot.com/cacbiho12skb.html



STFUG :flipoff2: first black text on new board
 
Awesome project and love your cabinet work. I redid my bathroom couple years ago and am not happy with the crappy sink vanity. I’m going to build my own once I get done with my kitchen, dinning room, utility room and living room.

BTW, I have the same LED work light and powermatic table saw :smokin:

Thanks. This table saw is a workhorse for 115 volt. When I build my shop I'll upgrade to the bigger hp 220volt. I put in the Incra router lift and built a down draft box.

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It's not load bearing, it's just holding up sheetrock. Those notches were from the original plumbing. The new plumbing was raised about 3 inches for a higher vanity. You can see the lower notch and how far it went into the wall to keep the plumbing flush. I didn't go as deep, but I pulled it in about an inch.

ok whew. I've seen some plumbers hack the shit outta load bearing stuff without a care in the world.
 
I can't remember the name of the company the tiler recommended, but we're going with a curbless pan, 63" x 36". A marble threshold will go around the pan between it and the glass panels.

All existing flooring will be removed. Right now there's tile on top of concrete board on 3/4" ply on 1x6 subfloor. I'm ripping everything out to the floor joists. In the shower, the new 3/4" subfloor will be inset of the floor joists and the pan will sit directly on the floor joists. The rest of the bathroom will have the 3/4" on top of the floor joists.

Curbless is nice.

Heated floor? That is hands down the best thing I put into my master bathroom. I did a warmlyyours system for about 600 bucks. Pre -wired for a heated towel rack as well I have yet to do.
 
How does that cock bead :laughing: :rolleyes: trim out the panels?


I might be stealing your cabinet idea for my bathroom remodel :grinpimp:

I've seen it on a lot of furniture but never made it before. I think typically it's about 1/8" thick with a roundover on the edge and sits proud, but flat against the panel edge. I made mine with a notch so all reveals were the same. The width was the width of the drawer panel plus 1/8" bead that sits proud. It took several sketchy passes through the router and table saw, but they came out decently.

To reduce waste, I made them all out of the same few scrap boards. Longer boards became unwieldy so I had to use shorter scraps. With the scraps I had, I could make about 6 at a time before starting over again with squaring the scraps. This required multiple router and table saw setups and there were inevitably slight variances in each session. We're talking 1/64" variances which become obvious with tiny pieces cut at 45°.

To answer your question though, I used tiny brad nails and glue to fasten them to the drawers. The beading around the cabinet base was treated the same way except around the legs. The extra width used to fasten them to the panels was cut off so only the 1/8" bead was remaining. I used CA glue and accelerator for those and it worked great.
 
Curbless is nice.

Heated floor? That is hands down the best thing I put into my master bathroom. I did a warmlyyours system for about 600 bucks. Pre -wired for a heated towel rack as well I have yet to do.

We discussed a heated floor but decided against it. My wife gets hot as shit after a shower and the last thing she wants is more heat. :laughing:

This is the guest bathroom though, which we'll be using as the primary when it comes time to renovate the master. That will give us time to decide if a heated floor will be a nice feature. I'll be using this bathroom as my primary as soon as it's finished. :smokin: I know marble is cooler to the touch than a lot of other surfaces would be.
 
Thanks. This table saw is a workhorse for 115 volt. When I build my shop I'll upgrade to the bigger hp 220volt. I put in the Incra router lift and built a down draft box.

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I have an older model powermatic 3HP 220v. I bought it used a few years back and actually used it first time a couple months ago. I’ve got a dedicated router table with an incra jig on it.

there’s a guy on YouTube that does videos of him redoing poorly done shower stalls and shows how it should be done. Very informative videos
 
Bad ass vanity! I have done construction for a large part of my life, and this is the first custom vanity that I have really liked!
 
It will be a square center drain, I think that's what you're asking? I assume a foam board system for the curbless pan. I have tons of questions about this tile work. I don't know the first thing about it, all this is new to me.

I know there are great synthetic products, but I'm a geologist during the day and have to have natural stone. Below are the tiles we're going with, all honed Carrara Bianco. I'm not sure if they're inexpensive or not. Marble tile can get pricey for exclusive types. We expect color variations and some staining with use, that's what adds to the character of natural stones. Our kitchen countertops are all marble.

Bathroom and shower floor:
https://www.thebuilderdepot.com/cbh-1x2-bskgd.html

Shower walls:
https://www.thebuilderdepot.com/cacbihoned6x24.html

Baseboard:
https://www.thebuilderdepot.com/cacbiho12skb.html



STFUG :flipoff2: first black text on new board

Linear drain would be installed up against the back wall.... slope the floor starting just outside the shower.... you end up with only 2 planes on the floor.. enabling you to run larger format tile into your shower.... only break being at the slope change!!!! Center drain you have to use smaller tiles to follow the contour..... curbless is awesome.... curbless and linear drain awesomer!!!!
That basket weave tile is a great look though!!!
 
Sounds like you understand the positive and negatives of living with natural stone.
here’s one that we finish and we’re really disappointed in the varied discoloration!!!
its in the corner of the back wall and the plumbing wall but hard to see in the pics. Look at the floor though and it’s glaring!!!
Ask any questions you want... I can even pm my number if you’d like.

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seems like there's probably some way to seal it right?
I mean, if you can seal concrete it seems like you should be able to seal natural stone.
 
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