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Maxi Trac compressor

I feel like I've asked this before but given that we are border line necroposting...

Anybody use this modern version of 12V compressors hooked to a larger storage tank. Like the York on my CJ5 runs to 120psi and I have a condemned SCBA tank and my rear 2x6 bumper setup as tanks for volume. I have a friend who had an old oasis 12V setup (which is in effect a large DC motor hooked to a york) and he had that plumbed into rocker tanks and worked well enough, which makes sense, same compressor, just with a different source of rotation. Of course those are hard to find and $$$.

Any reason I can't plumb one of these NAPA or Morrflate or Amazon special compressors to onboard tanks? Looking at adding better/standby air to vehicles I'm not prepared to sacrifice AC on, and don't have room for easily mounting a york. I assume they won't like running to 120PSI all the time, but even at reduced pressure, I can't see why it shouldn't work. I got thinking about this because of all the warnings on Morrflate about not using a high volume compressor to fill single tires, and I'm not a fan of the manifold systems that claim to equally fill all 4 tires simultaneously - just doesn't work for what I want.


 
Does airing up a 8R20 count? :laughing:

If it can do that I don't see why it couldn't do a 5gal tank.
Seems like from an engineering sense, asking an electric compressor to keep a tank at 90-120 psi or whatever it will do, with the occasional cycle of hi CFM action when actually using it is different than asking it to go 0-35 for 10 minutes. If its not going to survive or make CFM at say 40-70 psi like my York will (which actually will hold 60psi constantly airing up no problem at idle, and will cycle on and off at high idle because I have a stupid pulley size), then I need a different answer.
 
Seems like from an engineering sense, asking an electric compressor to keep a tank at 90-120 psi or whatever it will do, with the occasional cycle of hi CFM action when actually using it is different than asking it to go 0-35 for 10 minutes. If its not going to survive or make CFM at say 40-70 psi like my York will (which actually will hold 60psi constantly airing up no problem at idle, and will cycle on and off at high idle because I have a stupid pulley size), then I need a different answer.
8R20s don't run at 35psi. :laughing:

Yeah a York is obviously better in every way but it's a massive expensive pain in the ass vs alligator clipping something you bought off Amazon to the battery.
 
My WAG is no. Even the best of those 12v pumps are no York. I'm sure they have a designed lifespan, and it's probably in hundreds of hours, not decades. They'll work fine, until they don't.

Consumer-grade aftermarket equipment vs OEM industrial equipment.
 
8R20s don't run at 35psi. :laughing:

Yeah a York is obviously better in every way but it's a massive expensive pain in the ass vs alligator clipping something you bought off Amazon to the battery.
You get the point. I'm not asking about the physics of the situation - and I know how volume, pressure and flow relate. To me this is a question of can these things withstand the back pressure and will they cycle in that application/pressure without melting a piston because I suspect they are designed to run 0-whatever and not a high pressure cycle like a York or a Sanden does. Now that being said I don't need it to be pressurized 100% of the time, I don't run my York that way either, although I have friends that do.
I also hate the whole alligator clip thing and want to mounted it the back and wired through a solenoid controlled by a pressure switch and toggle switch. That way I can treat it just like my York and have air at the flip of a switch to the quick disconnects plumbed to my tanks so I can air up or set a broken bead without unpacking a compressor and opening the hood. If I can't make these things do what I want I'll either buck up for an oasis or build one myself with a winch motor and a york.
 
Yeah but they're just so cheap and easy who cares. :laughing:

Retire it to garage duty or the trunk of the DD when it starts getting tired and buy another one.

I gave Grendel all my Chrysler RV2 (which is better than a York IMO) OBA shit because the $100 Amazon special is good enough I'll never get around to doing "proper" onboard air.
 
Does airing up a 8R20 count? :laughing:

If it can do that I don't see why it couldn't do a 5gal tank.
My old single cylinder Tsumnami aired up 10Rs to 103 psi for me all the time.

I'm thinking of trying one of the Napa or Vevor pumps with the mods to keep a 5 gallon tank at 90 psi. I don't really need an engine driven compressor.
 
I guess this is a partial answer to my question. The Morrflate already has a 80-120 pressure switch and what I infer from that duty cycle chart is that it will do it, until it doesn't. The webpage mentions the new ones having a purge valve to relieve back pressure when done, which makes me suspect one of my concerns is valid. I'm now thinking this will work fine if I add a check valve between the compressor and the rest of my air system and just purge it when not in use.

Other ideas/details I'm thinking about with this that nobody wanted to know about (but has been rattling around in my head since this thread started a few years ago) I want to have this mounted in the back of the rig, in the cargo area mounted via a packout plate or build a simple pin in type of mount. Use the factory hose whip with disconnect to connect to the rest of the OBA system via check valve which will use the 2x6 rockers as tanks with front/rear disconnects. Cut into the factory power cable with the smaller anderson connectors so I could unpin/unrack it from the Jeep to carry to where its needed, but otherwise run welding cable from the battery to the back of the Jeep to normally power the compressor. I want to run those cables anyway for jumper cables and my receiver hitch winch anyway.

TL;dr I spent way too much time over engineering this idea to avoid using the silly alligator clamps.

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Hmm. Neat overthought idea.

Tyler's input on expected hours of lifespan would be interesting.

I think duty cycle is all to do with heat. The Morrflate already has upgraded heat sinking, but anything you could add there, as well as a 12v fan for mounted OBA use, would be good.

Check valve/purge valve- that's how normal compressors work. You don't want it starting from 0 rpm against 100psi! Sounds like a good way to go.
 
I have this Master Flow, since discontinued :homer:. It loses it's "gas" at 50 psi, but will dead head at 125 psi with my thumb over the end of the hose. The rubber gauge wip fucked up and I had to repair it.
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