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Maxi Trac compressor

4x4toyotatyler said:
Ya, air down is correct, that would be quicker if you unscrewed the Schrader valve. But air up is still always going to be restricted by the Schrader. You would have to make an ez deflator style air Chuck that removed the Schrader valve... which we have actually played around with in r&d lol. It just ends up being a pain in the ass in a 4tire hose kit application. Single tire though its not terrible.
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You realize they make a Schrader that fits inside, as well as air chucks that fit that large stem?

I've seen guys use them with the adapter cap to make checking pressure easier.


At one point I used 1/4 quick connect air fittings and could air up a 38 in a few seconds off of a shop compressor :laughing:
 
IowaOffRoad said:
When the cold winter of death for the unvaccinated kicks in I shall do what I can. My plan was to either put in in general 4x4 or wiring and electrical, think it applies to both. Thoughts?
Probably link it/update here for those that only hang out in CC:flipoff2:
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Probably general. It might be moved to tech. Either one of those sections are guaranteed to have minimal exposure.
 
06h3 said:
I love the nerdy science stuff! Axles, tires, air, suspension, etc.

So my next question, 5 gallons isn’t enough but is 5 gallons with 2 compressors enough to overcome the loss of the air exiting? Or is it better to do a larger tank with 1 compressor?
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that would mainly depend on your power house... if your alternator or battery setup could sustain 200amp draws (two TenSixes), then go that way. I am personally going to try and build a 10 gallon tank into the rig somehow...... eventually haha
 
YotaAtieToo said:
You realize they make a Schrader that fits inside, as well as air chucks that fit that large stem?

I've seen guys use them with the adapter cap to make checking pressure easier.


At one point I used 1/4 quick connect air fittings and could air up a 38 in a few seconds off of a shop compressor :laughing:
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Yes but then you run into cost and pricing problems. I have a set of large bore air chucks here at my desk. They would increase the cost of a 4tire hose kit by another $50.

You could also run couplers at your wheels if you really want... I personally will never run a solid valve stem. Too much risk to have them snap off on something. I think I handed out a colby valve to strangers on almost every trip I did on the rubicon this year. In the rocks, rubber is the only way you should run valve stems IMO

I am curious what you mean by "they make a Schrader that fits inside"... inside what? The large bore stems? Yup, again, see first thing above.
 
4x4toyotatyler said:
Yes but then you run into cost and pricing problems. I have a set of large bore air chucks here at my desk. They would increase the cost of a 4tire hose kit by another $50.
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I'm with you, I don't see the benefit if you're going to be using a 4 tire hose.

4x4toyotatyler said:
You could also run couplers at your wheels if you really want... I personally will never run a solid valve stem. Too much risk to have them snap off on something. I think I handed out a colby valve to strangers on almost every trip I did on the rubicon this year. In the rocks, rubber is the only way you should run valve stems IMO
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These were old school trail ready rings, so the stems were very well protected, otherwise I would agree.

The guys I know running the large tractor stems are running huge tires for snow with custom super offset and wide double beadlocks also, so hitting a stem is basically impossible.


4x4toyotatyler said:
I am curious what you mean by "they make a Schrader that fits inside"... inside what? The large bore stems? Yup, again, see first thing above.
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Yes

I don't see a huge advantage to going crazy with custom valve stems for 40s and smaller personally.

Have you figured out which valve stems flow more than others? I swear that some seem to take longer than others but haven't really nailed down what the difference is.
 
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Thanks RunningProblem for the discount code link and 4x4toyotatyler for the fast turnaround on order/shipping! Arrived this morning UPS.

My initial impressions are good. I love the bag (Maxi Trac bag sucks balls). Packing was good. As the Maxi seems gone forever (it and whatever iterations from that mfgr.) if this is no better I'm happy I got it.

My previous comment regarding doing a comparison with my somewhat lightly used Maxi vs. TenSix vs. the "whatever high-dollar top-of-the-line Slime compressor" I paid between what the Maxi cost me and the discount-code price of the MORRflate: I will pay this off, but it will probably be a few months. Life and stuff.

Gonna do my part to make the "t" in "Irate" stand for great tech (again) :flipoff2:


ETA: 4x4toyotatyler you need to offer the bag this thing comes in for sale. I really like it. If it ever shits out I'd like to replace it, and also offer us paupers an alternative to my HF solution for a Maxi bag once that POS shells (though my HF bag does work pretty good, yours is better). My $.02
 
IowaOffRoad said:
ETA: 4x4toyotatyler you need to offer the bag this thing comes in for sale. I really like it. If it ever shits out I'd like to replace it, and also offer us paupers an alternative to my HF solution for a Maxi bag once that POS shells (though my HF bag does work pretty good, yours is better). My $.02
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Heh, that is an interesting idea... I could definitely do that... I joined the Maxitrac support group on facebook, and it seems like everyone is looking for spare parts for these compressors haha. I might have to start a separate side business providing upgraded a la carte parts since we have them all available.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Have you figured out which valve stems flow more than others? I swear that some seem to take longer than others but haven't really nailed down what the difference is.
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That's a good question... "schrader" valves should all be to the same spec... it is a tube with OD threads and ID threads, with a spring loaded valve inside that threads into the ID threads. And that valve has a protrusion from the top of it that helps air chucks to depress the valve thus opening the air flow.

They are so small that tolerances are pretty slim. But also, any deviation from the standard can make a huge difference on the air flow since the useable airflow orifice of those is roughly 1/16" (~2cfm at 0psi). If you don't get it fully depressed, or if ANY debris gets in there, it will severely limit the airflow.

What I have found through testing and playing with other peoples stems (giggitty), is that if a spring goes bad on the valve, or they somehow get a little rusty, or they get a little dirty, or moisture gets in there and freezes up while snow wheeling, you get diminished airflow. So the best thing you can do is to replace the valve core (super cheap, available at any auto parts store), and then use valve stem caps.
 
4x4toyotatyler said:
That's a good question... "schrader" valves should all be to the same spec... it is a tube with OD threads and ID threads, with a spring loaded valve inside that threads into the ID threads. And that valve has a protrusion from the top of it that helps air chucks to depress the valve thus opening the air flow.

They are so small that tolerances are pretty slim. But also, any deviation from the standard can make a huge difference on the air flow since the useable airflow orifice of those is roughly 1/16" (~2cfm at 0psi). If you don't get it fully depressed, or if ANY debris gets in there, it will severely limit the airflow.

What I have found through testing and playing with other peoples stems (giggitty), is that if a spring goes bad on the valve, or they somehow get a little rusty, or they get a little dirty, or moisture gets in there and freezes up while snow wheeling, you get diminished airflow. So the best thing you can do is to replace the valve core (super cheap, available at any auto parts store), and then use valve stem caps.
Click to expand...

I was thinking about having the core pulled completely out and some seem quicker than others. Maybe the orifice after the threads can vary?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I was thinking about having the core pulled completely out and some seem quicker than others. Maybe the orifice after the threads can vary?
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That's definitely a possibility... especially with TPMS. I havent started digging into those to see what the orifice standards are on any of those. I would imagine that the passage on the back side of the schrader valve would be larger ID than the schrader valve tube since they are usually glued/adhered into the rubber "valve stem"... but I havent done the R&D on that exact orifice/passage
 
Pulled from elsewhere due to important information about 40s And the TexSix.

Stingray said:
Just ran a quick test with a 14 year old Puma, and my son's Morrflate.
Standard valve stems, nothing special.
Tires are 40x13.5x17 at 5 psi.
Went from 5 to 20 in 10 mins, and three more minutes to get to 25.
So 13 mins. And I'll drive the highway at 25 psi. Cyl head temp on the compressor was 195. Well within comfortable limits.

Filling multiple tires works an old compressor less, also I know this compressor has a lower rating, but higher than one valve stem can except, so using anything that fills multiple tires is beneficial.


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RunningProblem said:
Pulled from elsewhere due to important information about 40s And the TexSix.
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I feel like some information was left out in your post….. supposed to be a test between 2 compressors….. yet only one set of data!!!!!!



I expect better data, from a guy who’s job it is, to test air!!!!!!
:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:
 
Debating buying another one.

The money may be better spent running to the junkyard and grabbing a York. Looks like it would be an esay swap.
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4x4toyotatyler said:
That's a good question... "schrader" valves should all be to the same spec... it is a tube with OD threads and ID threads, with a spring loaded valve inside that threads into the ID threads. And that valve has a protrusion from the top of it that helps air chucks to depress the valve thus opening the air flow.

They are so small that tolerances are pretty slim. But also, any deviation from the standard can make a huge difference on the air flow since the useable airflow orifice of those is roughly 1/16" (~2cfm at 0psi). If you don't get it fully depressed, or if ANY debris gets in there, it will severely limit the airflow.

What I have found through testing and playing with other peoples stems (giggitty), is that if a spring goes bad on the valve, or they somehow get a little rusty, or they get a little dirty, or moisture gets in there and freezes up while snow wheeling, you get diminished airflow. So the best thing you can do is to replace the valve core (super cheap, available at any auto parts store), and then use valve stem caps.
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Look at the setup on the ARB tire deflater. It pulls the valve but keeps it captured and it screws the valve out/in via a built in tool. It won't be a cheap solution, but might be close enough to get some interest.

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Ted_Kaczynski said:
Look at the setup on the ARB tire deflater. It pulls the valve but keeps it captured and it screws the valve out/in via a built in tool. It won't be a cheap solution, but might be close enough to get some interest.

Screenshot_20231105_082652_Amazon Shopping.jpg
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looool
that's some mad overcomplicated bullshit shoehorned into tires from refrigeration

just yank the valve core to begin with, air up, then jam the core back in when the tire's about 2-5 psi overfull because you'll lose a couple jamming the core in while it's pissing at you
top up from there
 
Funny this comes up. I used mine last week for the first time. Bought it a year or more ago and it was just sitting.

I was pretty impressed with it overall, aired up my 35" BFG's from 15 psi to 45 psi pretty quick, didn't officially time them. Only issue was the junky hose it comes with got very hot, probably wouldn't last very long if you aired up more tires all at once.
 
I got this one on Amazon. You can set the pressure, has LCD with light. Dual cylinders70 LPM . I really like it. 80 bucks

GSPSCN Portable Air Compressor Pump Tire Inflator with Digital Gauge, Heavy Duty Double Cylinder 12V Tire Pump 150 PSI with Tire Repair Kit and Toolbox for Auto,SUV,Off-Road,Truck,Bike Amazon.com

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Area52 said:
Funny this comes up. I used mine last week for the first time. Bought it a year or more ago and it was just sitting.

I was pretty impressed with it overall, aired up my 35" BFG's from 15 psi to 45 psi pretty quick, didn't officially time them. Only issue was the junky hose it comes with got very hot, probably wouldn't last very long if you aired up more tires all at once.
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The hose on them is kind of cheap. I bought a better hose for mine, but I have yet to install it. I plan on putting a better hose on it, with a standard coupler on the end, to make the compressor more versatile. Plus I had the hose ends that screw onto valve stems to air up tires.
 
For info purposes, the hose fitting is 1/8" npt.
The bolts holding the heads on are torx t25.
I of course stripped the last one trying to remove the heads.
 
I feel like I've asked this before but given that we are border line necroposting...

Anybody use this modern version of 12V compressors hooked to a larger storage tank. Like the York on my CJ5 runs to 120psi and I have a condemned SCBA tank and my rear 2x6 bumper setup as tanks for volume. I have a friend who had an old oasis 12V setup (which is in effect a large DC motor hooked to a york) and he had that plumbed into rocker tanks and worked well enough, which makes sense, same compressor, just with a different source of rotation. Of course those are hard to find and $$$.

Any reason I can't plumb one of these NAPA or Morrflate or Amazon special compressors to onboard tanks? Looking at adding better/standby air to vehicles I'm not prepared to sacrifice AC on, and don't have room for easily mounting a york. I assume they won't like running to 120PSI all the time, but even at reduced pressure, I can't see why it shouldn't work. I got thinking about this because of all the warnings on Morrflate about not using a high volume compressor to fill single tires, and I'm not a fan of the manifold systems that claim to equally fill all 4 tires simultaneously - just doesn't work for what I want.
 
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