What's new

Loader tech in chit chat

Top of engine looks good.

Top ring is missing, and the sleeve is broken.

Wish you'd found this awhile ago, the people cleaning out the man stuff hoarders warehouse had a pallet of 71 series liner and piston kits. Looked new with slight surface rust. Still in DDA boxes. I thought about buying them but figured all I'd do was store them like that guy did and figured someone would buy them who needed them. Came back a couple weeks later and it had all gone in the scrap bin.
 
oof, that shit's fucked
can you get the oil pan and head off with the engine in there? Liners ain't a horrible job.
It's not "really" supercharged. The blower doesn't make boosted air at the pressures of a more conventional 4-stroke turbocharged engine. I think at most they make like 5psig in the intake manifold.
I know that, was just saying it because the added parts/complexity are there, so why not bitch about it :flipoff2:
Wish you'd found this awhile ago, the people cleaning out the man stuff hoarders warehouse had a pallet of 71 series liner and piston kits. Looked new with slight surface rust. Still in DDA boxes. I thought about buying them but figured all I'd do was store them like that guy did and figured someone would buy them who needed them. Came back a couple weeks later and it had all gone in the scrap bin.
that's the kinda shit that used to make consistent money on ebay
nowadays though you have pictures of the rust and point it out in the listing and still half the people try and get their money back just because of how easy it is to fuck sellers
 
I’m looking at replacing the engine with a low hours turbo engine. This thing needs power where it is, it’s the biggest model with the 4 cylinder.
 
Last edited:
I see interference with turbo and cab.

7106E1D3-8758-4216-AFBB-736C139A3FBE.jpeg

145A2320-EE71-4A02-9A9B-7041C47D2614.png

11FE6E05-AFE8-4BBC-A085-D98600FC1E02.jpeg

30D0E178-38D3-4819-8B57-60D38AA0DB9A.jpeg
 
I would half ass rebuild it before I changed engines
 
I’ve looked at getting a winch for the rear, at first I thought I would replace the rear weight with it. It was suggested to add the winch to the weight instead, because the weight will be a lot heavier.

Rear weight dimensions
8.5 deep
44 overall across
15 tall towards front of loader
12.5 tall towards back of loader
30 across reduced height area
11 tall in reduced height area

This one has a weight designed to bolt something to. Too bad mine doesn’t.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iiCeMC5VJpI
 
I was up a few days ago. There’s no room to put the diverter valve where I originally thought, at least not with the fitting lengths available. Looks like it’ll go on the other pressure hose (top picture). I ordered a coupler to extend it a little bit. I’m trying to keep it down in there, instead of having it exposed up top.
Click image for larger version Name:	F2266007-489D-4BEB-8A95-83D037956480.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	321.4 KB ID:	256153

Click image for larger version Name:	4816D6D6-1D6E-4A04-B23D-8C0027829E48.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	646.5 KB ID:	256154
 
I got the red engine.

I can finally see where the block heater goes, behind the fuel pump. I’ll install it before the engine goes into the loader. All it has now is a cover plate.

700A32F2-2435-4B9D-BE15-339793DFFA84.jpeg

99D8B7C0-6779-4E9B-AA95-8FD45D1AA6A7.jpeg

DFD1E1AE-B2F7-41E7-B065-955C8AEFCD25.jpeg
 
I was up almost two weeks ago. I had been thinking the cab would have to come off to get the engine out, but the removal instructions in the service manual doesn’t mention it. The instructions are pretty thorough. I looked at what I need to get to, and I can get to it. I have a friend with a 6,000 lb 4WD forklift ready to do it once I let him know. Should start pulling parts off soon.
 
You have some courage. I'll say that. Swap out engines on a heavy pig on top of a remote mountain? Let me finish my biscuits and get started. Wishing you the best of fortunes. I would be worried if I were in a well appointed shop. :flipoff2:
 
Damn, just read through this whole thread. Loving the ol Terex. I get around to some of the old equipment shows here in the midwest and stuff like that has been popping up more and more the last few years.

Good luck on the engine pulling. Doublecheck all the rigging and take it slow.
 
The friend helping me does all his work in the field, and so did our mutual friend that died in 2019. And it doesn’t bother me, we’ll be fine.
 
Working on plumbing up the third valve, I took this all the way off because I couldn’t get the hose off the tubing. I’m not sure what I’m working with here. Maybe it’s just tight, but I didn’t want to risk breaking it. I can hold it better with it off, to keep from twisting the tubing in half. I’m thinking it’s an Aeroquip field repair type fitting, but I haven’t worked with them. Should the tubing just unscrew from it? I need a different length hose to go to the diverter valve.

I‘m getting close to having this done.

DC79BBA1-B40F-422C-9013-052764BCDA80.jpeg

90756778-8745-4BFF-8CAF-DF6A5C87C1FE.jpeg

5F8B2A39-3286-4BBB-AB91-95D15BCBD4A7.jpeg

0A1DE508-A7D2-4BBE-B471-B3483025B1BB.jpeg
 
that should unscrew, put the tube side hex in a vise and heat the hose nut until it lets go of it all

the rubber grips onto everything really tight, but heat makes it let go
ETA: to be clear, you gotta heat it until the hose ID lets go of the threaded tube ferrule section that's inside it
 
It “should” unscrew without using heat to make it let go, right?
if it were just assembled the day before with plenty of lube (soap water), yes
after god knows how long and a brazillian heat cycles? You'll round the hex on the tube side long before it lets go.

the hose is too short anyways, it's the far better sacrificial part
that 180 degree cat flange hose end is the higher value part by far, if only in not needing to source one
 
I didn’t do anything with that hose today, I’ll take it home with me. I figured out all but one of the rest of the hoses though.
 
Is the tube screwed into whatever is screwed into the hose?
no, they're typically brazed
I assume between the steel tube and the small hex, you mean

then the small hex bit is threaded a fine thread with a cone at the end, that threads into the larger nut and the ID of the hose
the large nut has a large coarse lefthand thread on the ID to grip the hose's jacket and a smaller fine pitch right hand thread to thread onto the threads on the "small hex part"
 
I meant the steel tube threaded into the left hand threaded insert.

So now I’m taking your answer as yes.
 
Top Back Refresh