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Loader tech in chit chat

[486 said:
;n189996] they got the travel to use the twist drills you already got
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Twist drill will take more power, because it’s engaged in more steel. And it’ll be harder to push, and require more out of the magnet.
 
mountainguyed67 said:
Twist drill will take more power, because it’s engaged in more steel. And it’ll be harder to push, and require more out of the magnet.
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its why these ones got so much more beef to them than most mag drills

if I were using annulars exclusively I'd probably buy a modern drill, just to avoid muscling 80lbs or whatever around, gets awkward fast as it is more than half what I weigh
 
mountainguyed67 said:
What do you mean by modern drill? Aren’t these current production? I thought I saw them new.
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I mean the design is archaic with lots of sacrifices made in the name of the brute force needed to turn a 1.5" twist drill, and the travel needed to deal with differing lengths of bits

most anything designed around annulars is going to be a lot lighter and smaller, fitting in many places that these guys just won't
I guess maybe I'm just pointing out you're wasting money on annulars when your drill is designed more in line with cheaper twist drills
don't worry about it, dude
 
I just want to get it over with quick and easy, and the annular should do that. A 1” twist drill through steel is no joke, and makes a lot of chips.
 
I got the valve cover off recently. Everything looked like it went up and down. I turned the key, I didn’t have a wrench with enough leverage to turn it over by hand. And not a big enough cheater. Two cylinders had a little slack in the rockers, two were tight.

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here's to hoping the tight-lashed valves seal up good once loosened up a little
 
[486 said:
;n217378]here's to hoping the tight-lashed valves seal up good once loosened up a little
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I got people telling me not to risk using sticky injectors, replace them.
 
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well that's pulling the whole head
I'd see if it runs good with the lash set proper before doing any of that
 
oh hah that makes a lot more sense
detroit injectors are pretty darn cheap, and they're such heavy underpowered pigs that you don't really need to be hugely concerned about power balance, so do them one at a time

ETA: so you aren't talking about the exhaust rockers at all in #156 up there?
 
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mountainguyed67 said:
I meant both valves. Not the injector, I didn’t look for that yet.
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it's a detroit, all poppet valves are exhaust :P

if it has been running without running away I wouldn't worry about sticking injectors any more unless it sits for several months
 
mountainguyed67 said:
I got people telling me not to risk using sticky injectors, replace them.
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I haven't read all of your posts but:
1) Make sure your air shutoff is working if you're worried about a runaway. That's the first thing I did on the 6v71 and I had to use it the first firing
2) Keep an eye out for a newer shaft so you can go to the single screw adjusters. Easier and the springs allow an injector rack to stick without holding the rest of the injectors to WOT like yours will.
 
[486 said:
;n218186]
it's a detroit, all poppet valves are exhaust :P
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Okay, I’m just learning this engine. Someone called it a 4 valve per cylinder, engine. I was wondering why I only see 2 valves.
 
larboc said:
Make sure your air shutoff is working
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It is, I tested it recently. It didn’t have a cable to it, and nowhere to put one. I bought a cable, drilled a hole and installed it. You can only see part of the emergency shut off knob, below the parking brake release handle.

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mountainguyed67 said:
Okay, I’m just learning this engine. Someone called it a 4 valve per cylinder, engine. I was wondering why I only see 2 valves.
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Because you're not looking close enough, you can see all 4 valve springs in your last picture. There is a bridge under each rocker that drives two valves. Both rockers run at the same rate. All 4 valves in the head should open and close at the same time. Air induction is 'valved' through holes in the cylinder liner that are opened by the piston as it approaches BDC. I've got the "V" version of that manual and at the beginning it goes over all of this.

How did you adjust valve clearance without knowing this?
 
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larboc said:
Keep an eye out for a newer shaft so you can go to the single screw adjusters. Easier and the springs allow an injector rack to stick without holding the rest of the injectors to WOT like yours will.
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Someone already mentioned this, I haven’t searched yet. Seems to be a lot available for this engine, so it probably will be.
 
[486 said:
;n217915]they're such heavy underpowered pigs...
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A '80s technology 426 cubic inch OTR truck engine that could get factory rated at 320HP and 850ft-lbs isn't bad
 
[486 said:
;n218186]
if it has been running without running away I wouldn't worry about sticking injectors any more unless it sits for several months
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It’ll sit for 2-4 months each winter. This happened towards the end of summer though.
 
larboc said:
A '80s technology 426 cubic inch OTR truck engine that could get factory rated at 320HP and 850ft-lbs isn't bad
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more like a '20s technology 284CI 1800lb supercharged engine making 120 hp
oh right, the 4 valve head is a lot newer, maybe it makes 150hp :flipoff2:

they could be done up hot, but you'll find those in firetrucks, not loaders
besides, the fixed injection timing really sucks hard when you're hot-rodding anything :\
 
Speaking of fire trucks with Detroits, we had an International tanker with a 6V92 and a weird 2 range 7 speed manual transmission when I first joined our department. It was stupid fast for a tandem axle truck with wide base front tires. No one ever had the courage to wind out all the way out in high gear. Terrifying and awesome.
 
In the late 80s my brother and I were in his back yard in the middle of the night with a big fire, and I heard a Detroit coming up the alley. I blurted out “fire trucks have Detroit Diesels”, and we went to putting out the fire. It wasn’t allowed. Sure enough, we were their destination, and they told us to put out the fire. Alcohol was a factor.
 
[486 said:
;n218862]

more like a '20s technology 284CI 1800lb supercharged engine making 120 hp
oh right, the 4 valve head is a lot newer, maybe it makes 150hp :flipoff2:

they could be done up hot, but you'll find those in firetrucks, not loaders
besides, the fixed injection timing really sucks hard when you're hot-rodding anything :\
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It's not "really" supercharged. The blower doesn't make boosted air at the pressures of a more conventional 4-stroke turbocharged engine. I think at most they make like 5psig in the intake manifold.
 
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