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Know when to hold ‘em know when to fold em

Keep or replace my old POS?

  • Replace my old pos with a new pos?

    Votes: 22 33.8%

  • Fix and keep running my old pod?

    Votes: 43 66.2%
  • Total voters
    65
CarterKraft said:
I'm not going to bash the 6.4's they caused me a LOT of heartache in my two International service trucks from 2013-2019 but that's a hard job for that engine and I know several people who had great luck from their 6.4's.
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Emissions complete and could still re-gen?
 
You are pushing your luck with the 6.4. Get a 6.7/10 speed truck. Prices are coming down.
 
I still wish I would have kept my 06 Chevy 2500HD and done rust repairs on it, but at the time I was busy with other stuff. So I lean towards the "owe nothing, know what you have camp"

My question is if it's worth doing an oil change and sending oil in to be analyzed to make sure there's no signs of bearings eating themselves or other issue. Also not sure on diesels if there's other simple tests to see that base motor is in good shape. Given the engine is in good health, hopefully you could swap in parts and keep it running for another extended interval.
 
DMG said:
You are pushing your luck with the 6.4. Get a 6.7/10 speed truck. Prices are coming down.
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Retire it with a 1-0 record? Might be the only running 6.4 on the road that the cab has never been lifted off of. My hope when I bought it was 200K no cab off work. Made it there no problem. Now it’s got exhaust turbo issues that will require lifting the cab to get to.
 
If you feel the rest of the truck is worry free/ reliable i would say throw new turbos at it for now and maybe look for a good core to send to a reliable builder to have ready to go if the time comes.

I live in rust heaven so the body goes well before the drivetrain around here.

My diesel mechanic friends all love the 6.4’s because they have made fortunes off of fixing them lol
 
Stock turbos are what $1200-2500 depending on reman or new. Do that and whatever maintenance shit that's easy to get to while you're there and peel out.

Also, what year 6.7 are you comparing it to? They've changed quite a bit since 2011. Comparing anything to a 550hp diesel is going to be tough.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Stock turbos are what $1200-2500 depending on reman or new. Do that and whatever maintenance shit that's easy to get to while you're there and peel out.

Also, what year 6.7 are you comparing it to? They've changed quite a bit since 2011. Comparing anything to a 550hp diesel is going to be tough.
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A couple of deleted tuned 2012’s
 
JR4X said:
A couple of deleted tuned 2012’s
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So the 6.4 turbo must be better for higher hp.

Personally, I can't see needing more hp than a stock 6.7, so maybe I'm a bad reference. Even my work 19 F550 with the c&c tune isn't horrible.

I think the beauty of the 6.7 is that you shouldn't have to do anything to it. Def is annoying, but last like 5-7k miles, so not that bad.

Deleting stuff is getting really hard to do anymore.
 
needs a poll.
my $.05 (inflation adjusted).

if you like the truck, keep it. owned 2 6.7's now (16, 21) and they are nice, but DEF sucks... and i honestly prefer the 6 speed over the 10. And steal over aluminum body.
 
rockota said:
needs a poll.
my $.05 (inflation adjusted).

if you like the truck, keep it. owned 2 6.7's now (16, 21) and they are nice, but DEF sucks... and i honestly prefer the 6 speed over the 10. And steal over aluminum body.
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Created. And I also like my steel cab better. I’m Posting this reply from the cab of a 2019. I like the interior style of the 08 to 2016
 
 
Tiha said:
That what I did. opted for the 2016 instead of newer.
They are still some low mileage units out there.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/638e41b6-e465-43d8-9e96-db8d40583ed0/

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/4a7ae7a3-691b-4a11-a91a-3a67a1d47c99/

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/0c311197-b3a6-45e8-9a91-d12a2b23edf5/?attribution_type=se_rnp

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/113fc37f-4864-4bdd-8361-f0f380d4b736/?attribution_type=se_rnp

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/0135a77e-6005-466f-bffb-a6e8154df23e/?attribution_type=se_rnp
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I really believe that give it 2 or 3 more months..and all those crazy prices will come down 10 to 20k.....dealers are starting to get inventory back and the lots are filling...also read where repos are on the rise from clowns financing 5k over sticker or paying sticker price...when repos go up..used prices come way down
 
DT75FLH said:
I really believe that give it 2 or 3 more months..and all those crazy prices will come down 10 to 20k.....dealers are starting to get inventory back and the lots are filling...also read where repos are on the rise from clowns financing 5k over sticker or paying sticker price...when repos go up..used prices come way down
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We got some people on the board in used car sales that kind of have me convinced that might never happen.
 
The real answer is a common rail Cummins swap. Dead serious.

I also think an MDT for strictly towing is a very good option. As usual assbackwards does know wtf he's talking about as far as operating costs. Does it cost "more" sure. Does everything last longer and increase the safety factor? Absolutely.

In conclusion if Im spending your $, Im buying an MDT/Singled out HDT and then putting a common rail in the F250. I think all that can be done for 70k.
 
Let me also add to the discussion that when it comes to vehicles I am the pickiest MF you’ve ever met. I absolutely do care about color and cab configuration. So when looking for used trucks I’ll easily pass up probably the best truck ever built because it’s red or has tan interior or worse it’s red with tan interior. Really limits my options when looking for something low mileage
 
Just go order a new one now. They are about 6 months out still.
 
HillbillyDeluxe said:
The real answer is a common rail Cummins swap. Dead serious.
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X2

The 6.7 Cummins is a torque monster. I definitely prefer it over any other diesel truck I use. The electronics are out there now to integrate that engine into the Ford chassis and trans. If it were my money, I would stick a 6.7 Cummins and Allison 6 speed in OP's truck and rock out.

The 6.7 Power stroke is good too if you protect the CP4, But not as good as the 6.7 Cummins in the non CP4 years.
 
JR4X said:
Created. And I also like my steel cab better. I’m Posting this reply from the cab of a 2019. I like the interior style of the 08 to 2016
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The question really isn’t about fixing the 6.4 or buying a new truck.

It’s fixing and buying a new truck.

Assuming that you’ll need to fix turbos to get any money out of this one.
 
rockota said:
The question really isn’t about fixing the 6.4 or buying a new truck.

It’s fixing and buying a new truck.

Assuming that you’ll need to fix turbos to get any money out of this one.
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Always another wrinkle. Not worth anything with an audible turbo leak and the check engine light saying “turbo charger boost system performance”.

F8971EB4-ABEC-45A4-BA0E-160006C49A5C.jpeg
 
This one I could see myself in. Not sure about 57K for a 7 year old truck though.

896B8965-83F4-4168-A503-59AC03E3F7C4.jpeg
 
So the truck has 200K on in. What was that 200k like did it live a hard life towing at high levels of boost. I can pull a CAT product status report a see what the average engine load factor over the life of the engine. This, repair history and a compression / blow-by test would be the best way to determine the current health of the engine.
Give an overall honest opinion of the rest of the truck and combine the two.
The above and the financials are what I would use to make my decision.
The half life of a 7.3 is 500k miles. Newer engines I feel are a little less due to higher load factors.
I opted to completely rebuild my 7.3 at 275k. I do not regret it one bit. I trust it.

I would be afraid to pay more for a truck I don't like as much hoping for reliability that is not guaranteed.
or jump in and hope the water isn't too cold :eek:
 
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RustyC said:
So the truck has 200K on in. What was that 200k like did it live a hard life towing at high levels of boost. I can pull a CAT product status report a see what the average engine load factor over the life of the engine. This, repair history and a compression / blow-by test would be the best way to determine the current health of the engine.
Give an overall honest option of the rest of the truck and combine the two.
The above and the financials are what I would use to make my decision.
The half life of a 7.3 is 500k miles. Newer engines I feel are a little less due to higher load factors.
I opted to completely rebuild my 7.3 at 275k. I do not regret it one bit. I trust it.

I would be afraid to pay more for a truck I don't like as much hoping for reliability that is not guaranteed.
or jump in and hope the water isn't too cold :eek:
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I never drag raced it or did tire melting power brake burn outs with it. But lots and lots of high boost tow time with it. This picture was taken in 2016, showing off to my Duramax owning buddy who has EGT issues. Cruise set on 85 mph in an 80 zone towing a 17,000 pound trailer across the whole state of Utah. The temps were never high so it shouldn’t have been melting it down. But that picture is the description of its life of service. No stop and go traffic, not DD’d. Mostly 5 hours at a time pulling a trailer between 34 and 44 psi of boost at less than 1200 EGT. 5 hours being the average amount of time it takes to burn 22 gallons of diesel at highway speed pulling a trailer, and the amount of time I can go between piss stops. My average round trip mileage for a race is 2,000 miles.



A3996851-4839-46CA-9B79-D87871F7DA04.jpeg
 
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Say you make the turbo repair. How long until you hit 300K time wise? Will the truck last the rest of your racing commitment under the 300K mark?
This would be somthing to consider.
 
RustyC said:
Say you make the turbo repair. How long until you hit 300K time wise? Will the truck last the rest of your racing commitment under the 300K mark?
This would be somthing to consider.
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Another 100K would get me well past my current commitment period. With my current trend the next hundred will take about 5 more years.

Truck is cancer free, not a spec of rust. Has some dings and dents but overall good shape. The 3 pics in the Op are all very recent. Still 100% original. Original trans, original u-joints, wheel bearings, seals, rotors. Has only had fluids and tires replaced aside from 1 alternator and the turbo back exhaust.
 
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