That's the way to do it. Don't get me wrong, NWF's solid, one piece bracket is nice...but I'm not convinced it's $600 nice.I'm pretty tempted to just buy these and fab tabs for the dodge calipers. Doesn't seem like rocket science.
Chevy Front Dana 60 Disc Brake Bracket Pair
Check out the deal on Chevy Front Dana 60 Disc Brake Bracket Pair at RuffStuff Specialtieswww.ruffstuffspecialties.com
I'm pretty tempted to just buy these and fab tabs for the dodge calipers. Doesn't seem like rocket science.
Chevy Front Dana 60 Disc Brake Bracket Pair
Check out the deal on Chevy Front Dana 60 Disc Brake Bracket Pair at RuffStuff Specialtieswww.ruffstuffspecialties.com
Cut them at the right place, two bends and make a piece:Yes, for $60 it's not worth cutting the circle to me, I'd buy those and add tabs for what ever caliper I want.
And.....RA's shipping BS kills another deal.2005 dodge rotor is also 13.9 and 1.4 thickness.
Seems like it would match well with the tundra caliper with maybe a little shave.
Or mill the pads down
Edit: ordered calipers off rock auto (they had a pair on closeout, $60ea) and rotors/pads off Amazon since rockauto wanted a shit load to ship rotors.
Ya buying heavy stuff through RA is usually a crap shoot. I'm in Canada however and it's still usually one of the cheapest options even with shipping as they charge duty/ tax up front so you don't get hit with UPS broker fees (which are retardedly expensive)And.....RA's shipping BS kills another deal.
And.....RA's shipping BS kills another deal.
Rockauto's pricing/freight to Canada is very attractive.I don't get why people love them so much. $80 to ship calipers and rotors when everyone else is free shipping?
I don't get why people love them so much. $80 to ship calipers and rotors when everyone else is free shipping? Only reason I got the calipers there was there were on a closeout and half the price of elsewhere.
Yeah, recently....with their dumbass overpriced shipping...it's more.They used to be better, they are just another parts store now. 5 years ago I could buy parts for dirt and the shipping wasn't too bad. Now shipping is retarded and unless it's closeout price it's the same as everyone else.
They got to cover their losses on their shitty warehouse help packing things like a drunk fedex worker.They used to be better, they are just another parts store now. 5 years ago I could buy parts for dirt and the shipping wasn't too bad. Now shipping is retarded and unless it's closeout price it's the same as everyone else.
I feel like I'm on another planet reading this. Rockauto has always been excellent and still is for me.They used to be better, they are just another parts store now. 5 years ago I could buy parts for dirt and the shipping wasn't too bad. Now shipping is retarded and unless it's closeout price it's the same as everyone else.
I feel like I'm on another planet reading this. Rockauto has always been excellent and still is for me.
I tend to buy parts for 20 year old vehicles though, maybe pricing is different for newer vehicles. For example, I just rebuilt the entire suspension on a 2006 Ford Fusion. Cheapest upper ball joint from Rockauto is $8, compared to $35 from Napa or $42 from Oreilly. Yeah I spend $20 to $50 on shipping, but when you save $20 to $50 per part on 5 parts, it is worth it.
Nope...mine are 25ish years old....'98, '99, 2002 as just examples.I feel like I'm on another planet reading this. Rockauto has always been excellent and still is for me.
I tend to buy parts for 20 year old vehicles though, maybe pricing is different for newer vehicles. For example, I just rebuilt the entire suspension on a 2006 Ford Fusion. Cheapest upper ball joint from Rockauto is $8, compared to $35 from Napa or $42 from Oreilly. Yeah I spend $20 to $50 on shipping, but when you save $20 to $50 per part on 5 parts, it is worth it.
Look a those scary off balancing rotor stud holes, OH no! not you Cgalpha.Figure id add my .02 cents here as well.
I am running stock hummer h3 front calipers on custom made brackets. 06h3 made these brackets for me, which i believe are just ruff stuff brackets chopped up and rewelded. The h3 front calipers are nice 4 piston things.
Rotors are from a 2002 chevy 2500 rear axle (note there are technically 2 different hat heights, i used the taller one)(got them from rockauto)
Hubs are solid axle industries and needed no modification for the rotor to slide over (not sure about oem hubs)
The pads are technically bigger/overhand the rotor by a smidge, but for what we are doing, not really concerned, stops all 6k+ lbs of my rig just fine.
The wheel lugs i used were from a dodge i think, had to measure the holes for them and get the ones with the right diameter and non threaded height to go all the way through. They are way too long, and i need to chop them down, i just haven't gotten around to that ( i can get part numbers if someone wants).
The thing that i am curious about possibly doing is swapping to the ECGS big brake kit. I figure a larger caliper with 2 pistons should be similar in fluid volume to 4 pistons that are smaller.
Lol, the rotor's centered on the hub. Who gives a fuck about the studs if that happens?Look a those scary off balancing rotor stud holes, OH no! not you Cgalpha.
I see an 1/8" gap all the way round the diameter of the hub.Lol, the rotor's centered on the hub. Who gives a fuck about the studs if that happens?
Love you too man.
Figure id add my .02 cents here as well.
I am running stock hummer h3 front calipers on custom made brackets. 06h3 made these brackets for me, which i believe are just ruff stuff brackets chopped up and rewelded. The h3 front calipers are nice 4 piston things.
Rotors are from a 2002 chevy 2500 rear axle (note there are technically 2 different hat heights, i used the taller one)(got them from rockauto)
Hubs are solid axle industries and needed no modification for the rotor to slide over (not sure about oem hubs)
The pads are technically bigger/overhand the rotor by a smidge, but for what we are doing, not really concerned, stops all 6k+ lbs of my rig just fine.
The wheel lugs i used were from a dodge i think, had to measure the holes for them and get the ones with the right diameter and non threaded height to go all the way through. They are way too long, and i need to chop them down, i just haven't gotten around to that ( i can get part numbers if someone wants).
The thing that i am curious about possibly doing is swapping to the ECGS big brake kit. I figure a larger caliper with 2 pistons should be similar in fluid volume to 4 pistons that are smaller.
Yep, 1/8" all way around, agreed.I see an 1/8" gap all the way round the diameter of the hub.
I'll have a beer with ya!
I believe you, I've never personally seen one that far off. But I've also never had to press off a brake rotor unless it was salt corroded on for years.Yep, 1/8" all way around, agreed.
(that's centered, right?)
I don't care how it happens, hub flange, hub barrel or wheel stud 1 to 2 thou taper interference fit causing a centered rotor, it has to be centered.
A very simple question: In the video I posted, you could shift the entire rotor 3/16" off hub center, before you clamped it down.
Why run 14lbs ( or 28lbs) off center on your front axle, when you don't have to?
Edit: I even googled it and this is what their AI says, by looking at millions of data sources:
"
AI Overview
Learn more…Opens in new tab
If your brake rotor is off the hub center, it can cause uneven brake pad wear, vibration in the steering wheel when braking, pulsating brake pedal, and potentially reduced braking efficiency due to inconsistent contact between the brake pads and the rotor surface, leading to a less reliable braking system and potentially dangerous driving conditions.
Key points about a misaligned brake rotor:
What causes a brake rotor to be off center?
- Uneven wear:
The brake pads will contact the rotor at an uneven angle, causing them to wear faster in certain areas.
- Vibration:
As the wheel rotates, the uneven contact between the pads and the rotor will create vibrations that can be felt in the steering wheel.
- Reduced braking power:
The inconsistent contact may not provide optimal braking force, potentially extending stopping distances.
- Noise:
You might hear grinding or pulsating noises while braking due to the uneven contact.
"
- Improper installation: Not properly centering the rotor on the hub during installation.
- Damaged hub:A warped or damaged wheel hub can prevent the rotor from sitting correctly.
- Worn components:Worn wheel bearings or other suspension parts can contribute to misalignment.
Anyhow, enough said here. I'd have a beer with you, too.