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King pin 60 brake tech

They're really not that complicated.
de64e53d-284b-49e5-b634-adb05cc1cb3c.jpg
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I'm pretty tempted to just buy these and fab tabs for the dodge calipers. Doesn't seem like rocket science.

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Chevy Front Dana 60 Disc Brake Bracket Pair

Check out the deal on Chevy Front Dana 60 Disc Brake Bracket Pair at RuffStuff Specialties
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
Click to expand...
That's the way to do it. Don't get me wrong, NWF's solid, one piece bracket is nice...but I'm not convinced it's $600 nice.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I'm pretty tempted to just buy these and fab tabs for the dodge calipers. Doesn't seem like rocket science.

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Chevy Front Dana 60 Disc Brake Bracket Pair

Check out the deal on Chevy Front Dana 60 Disc Brake Bracket Pair at RuffStuff Specialties
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
Click to expand...

It's easy. Those are the brackets I used to adapt to radial mount calipers. That was a bit more involved but.... Set the caliper on the rotor where you want it, hook up a air line to lock the caliper in place on the rotor and add what you need to connect the two together.

In the rear I started with the Ruffstuff weld on bracket and did the same thing.
 
Yes, for $60 it's not worth cutting the circle to me, I'd buy those and add tabs for what ever caliper I want.
 
So how much can you veer from oem rotor thickness when mixing and matching calipers and rotors?

I really like Toyota 4 piston calipers. 2nd gen tundra are pretty common and about the same price as what we've talked about here. Only problem is they list the same year rotors at 1.26 nominal thickness, where the ram and GM rotors are 1.5. For what we're doing vs towing 20k, you could probably take 0.125 off each side of the rotor? Loose a little rotating mass also. Or I found 2005 gm 2500hd rear rotors at 1.14, but 12.99" Dia vs 13.94"
 
I turned a set of 1 ton Dodge KP rotors to 3/4 GM dimensions. Took a good bit of thickness and diameter off IIRC. I took enough off I went well into the vents. They've been on my buggy for 5 years now with zero issues. Those older rotors had a ton of material on them.
 
2005 dodge rotor is also 13.9 and 1.4 thickness.

Seems like it would match well with the tundra caliper with maybe a little shave.

Or mill the pads down :lmao:

Edit: ordered calipers off rock auto (they had a pair on closeout, $60ea) and rotors/pads off Amazon since rockauto wanted a shit load to ship rotors.
 
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Food for thought in the spirit of keeping things cheap and easy, I think I have an extra pair of stock Chevy D60 caliper brackets (would sell for reasonable $) and in +10 years, have never had an issue with the stock hardware and generous amounts anti-sieze.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
2005 dodge rotor is also 13.9 and 1.4 thickness.

Seems like it would match well with the tundra caliper with maybe a little shave.

Or mill the pads down :lmao:

Edit: ordered calipers off rock auto (they had a pair on closeout, $60ea) and rotors/pads off Amazon since rockauto wanted a shit load to ship rotors.
Click to expand...
And.....RA's shipping BS kills another deal.
 
Sean said:
And.....RA's shipping BS kills another deal.
Click to expand...
Ya buying heavy stuff through RA is usually a crap shoot. I'm in Canada however and it's still usually one of the cheapest options even with shipping as they charge duty/ tax up front so you don't get hit with UPS broker fees (which are retardedly expensive)
 
Sean said:
And.....RA's shipping BS kills another deal.
Click to expand...

I don't get why people love them so much. $80 to ship calipers and rotors when everyone else is free shipping? Only reason I got the calipers there was there were on a closeout and half the price of elsewhere.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I don't get why people love them so much. $80 to ship calipers and rotors when everyone else is free shipping? Only reason I got the calipers there was there were on a closeout and half the price of elsewhere.
Click to expand...

They used to be better, they are just another parts store now. 5 years ago I could buy parts for dirt and the shipping wasn't too bad. Now shipping is retarded and unless it's closeout price it's the same as everyone else.
 
94toytruck said:
They used to be better, they are just another parts store now. 5 years ago I could buy parts for dirt and the shipping wasn't too bad. Now shipping is retarded and unless it's closeout price it's the same as everyone else.
Click to expand...
Yeah, recently....with their dumbass overpriced shipping...it's more.
 
94toytruck said:
They used to be better, they are just another parts store now. 5 years ago I could buy parts for dirt and the shipping wasn't too bad. Now shipping is retarded and unless it's closeout price it's the same as everyone else.
Click to expand...
They got to cover their losses on their shitty warehouse help packing things like a drunk fedex worker.
Hey! A steel anvil! Lets put this in an oversized thin walled cardboard box with nothing else.
 
94toytruck said:
They used to be better, they are just another parts store now. 5 years ago I could buy parts for dirt and the shipping wasn't too bad. Now shipping is retarded and unless it's closeout price it's the same as everyone else.
Click to expand...
I feel like I'm on another planet reading this. Rockauto has always been excellent and still is for me.

I tend to buy parts for 20 year old vehicles though, maybe pricing is different for newer vehicles. For example, I just rebuilt the entire suspension on a 2006 Ford Fusion. Cheapest upper ball joint from Rockauto is $8, compared to $35 from Napa or $42 from Oreilly. Yeah I spend $20 to $50 on shipping, but when you save $20 to $50 per part on 5 parts, it is worth it.
 
Figure id add my .02 cents here as well.
I am running stock hummer h3 front calipers on custom made brackets. 06h3 made these brackets for me, which i believe are just ruff stuff brackets chopped up and rewelded. The h3 front calipers are nice 4 piston things.

Rotors are from a 2002 chevy 2500 rear axle (note there are technically 2 different hat heights, i used the taller one)(got them from rockauto)

Hubs are solid axle industries and needed no modification for the rotor to slide over (not sure about oem hubs)

The pads are technically bigger/overhand the rotor by a smidge, but for what we are doing, not really concerned, stops all 6k+ lbs of my rig just fine.

The wheel lugs i used were from a dodge i think, had to measure the holes for them and get the ones with the right diameter and non threaded height to go all the way through. They are way too long, and i need to chop them down, i just haven't gotten around to that ( i can get part numbers if someone wants).

20240601_213040.jpg
20240601_213045.jpg


The thing that i am curious about possibly doing is swapping to the ECGS big brake kit. I figure a larger caliper with 2 pistons should be similar in fluid volume to 4 pistons that are smaller.
 
tsomctl said:
I feel like I'm on another planet reading this. Rockauto has always been excellent and still is for me.

I tend to buy parts for 20 year old vehicles though, maybe pricing is different for newer vehicles. For example, I just rebuilt the entire suspension on a 2006 Ford Fusion. Cheapest upper ball joint from Rockauto is $8, compared to $35 from Napa or $42 from Oreilly. Yeah I spend $20 to $50 on shipping, but when you save $20 to $50 per part on 5 parts, it is worth it.
Click to expand...

Cheapest closeout parts for a car that's rapidly disappearing is where they do well. More of those cars are being crushed a day than getting upper ball joints replaced these days.
 
cgalpha08 what calipers do they use? I can get you an idea on how they compare volume wise. 09 plus ram 3500 front calipers?

If so,

H3 calipers are 45mm pistons x 4.
09+ ram 3500 front calipers are 60mm x2.
 
tsomctl said:
I feel like I'm on another planet reading this. Rockauto has always been excellent and still is for me.

I tend to buy parts for 20 year old vehicles though, maybe pricing is different for newer vehicles. For example, I just rebuilt the entire suspension on a 2006 Ford Fusion. Cheapest upper ball joint from Rockauto is $8, compared to $35 from Napa or $42 from Oreilly. Yeah I spend $20 to $50 on shipping, but when you save $20 to $50 per part on 5 parts, it is worth it.
Click to expand...
Nope...mine are 25ish years old....'98, '99, 2002 as just examples.
 
cgalpha08 said:
Figure id add my .02 cents here as well.
I am running stock hummer h3 front calipers on custom made brackets. 06h3 made these brackets for me, which i believe are just ruff stuff brackets chopped up and rewelded. The h3 front calipers are nice 4 piston things.

Rotors are from a 2002 chevy 2500 rear axle (note there are technically 2 different hat heights, i used the taller one)(got them from rockauto)

Hubs are solid axle industries and needed no modification for the rotor to slide over (not sure about oem hubs)

The pads are technically bigger/overhand the rotor by a smidge, but for what we are doing, not really concerned, stops all 6k+ lbs of my rig just fine.

The wheel lugs i used were from a dodge i think, had to measure the holes for them and get the ones with the right diameter and non threaded height to go all the way through. They are way too long, and i need to chop them down, i just haven't gotten around to that ( i can get part numbers if someone wants).

20240601_213040.jpg
20240601_213045.jpg


The thing that i am curious about possibly doing is swapping to the ECGS big brake kit. I figure a larger caliper with 2 pistons should be similar in fluid volume to 4 pistons that are smaller.
Click to expand...
Look a those scary off balancing rotor stud holes, OH no! :lmao::flipoff2: not you Cgalpha.
 
Grendel said:
Lol, the rotor's centered on the hub. Who gives a fuck about the studs if that happens?

:flipoff2:

Love you too man. :flipoff2:


1729185384717.png
Click to expand...
I see an 1/8" gap all the way round the diameter of the hub.

:beer: I'll have a beer with ya!
 
cgalpha08 said:
Figure id add my .02 cents here as well.
I am running stock hummer h3 front calipers on custom made brackets. 06h3 made these brackets for me, which i believe are just ruff stuff brackets chopped up and rewelded. The h3 front calipers are nice 4 piston things.

Rotors are from a 2002 chevy 2500 rear axle (note there are technically 2 different hat heights, i used the taller one)(got them from rockauto)

Hubs are solid axle industries and needed no modification for the rotor to slide over (not sure about oem hubs)

The pads are technically bigger/overhand the rotor by a smidge, but for what we are doing, not really concerned, stops all 6k+ lbs of my rig just fine.

The wheel lugs i used were from a dodge i think, had to measure the holes for them and get the ones with the right diameter and non threaded height to go all the way through. They are way too long, and i need to chop them down, i just haven't gotten around to that ( i can get part numbers if someone wants).


The thing that i am curious about possibly doing is swapping to the ECGS big brake kit. I figure a larger caliper with 2 pistons should be similar in fluid volume to 4 pistons that are smaller.
Click to expand...

Those look super similar to the Toyota calipers.

H3 rotors are listed at 12.4 x 1.1 so I think you matched those gm rotors almost perfect. Had I saw this before I ordered, I might have copied you :flipoff2:

But oh well, I got 14" rotors :smokin:

I don't see what you would be gaining by going to the dodge calipers though? From what I can find online, the h3 and ram master are pretty similar size (1.45 h3 vs 1.31 ram)

Also the surface area of 4x45 vs 2 x60 is very very close
 
Winchested said:
I see an 1/8" gap all the way round the diameter of the hub.

:beer: I'll have a beer with ya!
Click to expand...
Yep, 1/8" all way around, agreed. :stirthepot:

(that's centered, right?)

I don't care how it happens, hub flange, hub barrel or wheel stud 1 to 2 thou taper interference fit causing a centered rotor, it has to be centered.

A very simple question: In the video I posted, you could shift the entire rotor 3/16" off hub center, before you clamped it down.

Why run 14lbs ( or 28lbs) off center on your front axle, when you don't have to?

Edit: I even googled it and this is what their AI says, by looking at millions of data sources:

"
AI Overview
Learn more…Opens in new tab

If your brake rotor is off the hub center, it can cause uneven brake pad wear, vibration in the steering wheel when braking, pulsating brake pedal, and potentially reduced braking efficiency due to inconsistent contact between the brake pads and the rotor surface, leading to a less reliable braking system and potentially dangerous driving conditions.


Key points about a misaligned brake rotor:


  • Uneven wear:
    The brake pads will contact the rotor at an uneven angle, causing them to wear faster in certain areas.


  • Vibration:
    As the wheel rotates, the uneven contact between the pads and the rotor will create vibrations that can be felt in the steering wheel.


  • Reduced braking power:
    The inconsistent contact may not provide optimal braking force, potentially extending stopping distances.


  • Noise:
    You might hear grinding or pulsating noises while braking due to the uneven contact.

What causes a brake rotor to be off center?


  • Improper installation: Not properly centering the rotor on the hub during installation.

  • Damaged hub:A warped or damaged wheel hub can prevent the rotor from sitting correctly.


  • Worn components:Worn wheel bearings or other suspension parts can contribute to misalignment.

"

Anyhow, enough said here. I'd have a beer with you, too. :beer:
 

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  • IMG_9566.mp4
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Grendel said:
Yep, 1/8" all way around, agreed. :stirthepot:

(that's centered, right?)

I don't care how it happens, hub flange, hub barrel or wheel stud 1 to 2 thou taper interference fit causing a centered rotor, it has to be centered.

A very simple question: In the video I posted, you could shift the entire rotor 3/16" off hub center, before you clamped it down.

Why run 14lbs ( or 28lbs) off center on your front axle, when you don't have to?

Edit: I even googled it and this is what their AI says, by looking at millions of data sources:

"
AI Overview
Learn more…Opens in new tab

If your brake rotor is off the hub center, it can cause uneven brake pad wear, vibration in the steering wheel when braking, pulsating brake pedal, and potentially reduced braking efficiency due to inconsistent contact between the brake pads and the rotor surface, leading to a less reliable braking system and potentially dangerous driving conditions.


Key points about a misaligned brake rotor:


  • Uneven wear:
    The brake pads will contact the rotor at an uneven angle, causing them to wear faster in certain areas.


  • Vibration:
    As the wheel rotates, the uneven contact between the pads and the rotor will create vibrations that can be felt in the steering wheel.


  • Reduced braking power:
    The inconsistent contact may not provide optimal braking force, potentially extending stopping distances.


  • Noise:
    You might hear grinding or pulsating noises while braking due to the uneven contact.
What causes a brake rotor to be off center?


  • Improper installation: Not properly centering the rotor on the hub during installation.
  • Damaged hub:A warped or damaged wheel hub can prevent the rotor from sitting correctly.


  • Worn components:Worn wheel bearings or other suspension parts can contribute to misalignment.
"

Anyhow, enough said here. I'd have a beer with you, too. :beer:
Click to expand...
I believe you, I've never personally seen one that far off. But I've also never had to press off a brake rotor unless it was salt corroded on for years.
 
So I just realized that I could have probably used early 2000s E350 rear rotors and had the same rotors all the way around :homer:

The thinkness is super close to the tundra 1.18 vs 1.26 iirc, only major difference is 12.8 of vs 13.9. When the pads and calipers get here, I'll test fit them and see if they fit decently.
 
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