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King pin 60 brake tech

YotaAtieToo

Thick skull
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
142
Messages
12,464
Loc
Bonners Ferry, ID
For those of us peasants still running KP stuff. How about a brake thread?

I don't have calipers or brackets anyway, so maybe it's a good excuse to do something better?

There is the typical 3/4t conversion that I not even sure what the point it? Maybe works better with a typical jeep or Toyota Mc. My last rig was kp60 6 lug, so 1/2t brakes and still had a crazy soft pedal with the 1" FJ80 mc anyway.


There is also a few different varieties of "big brake kits" but they seem extremely over priced. Some are selling just brackets for $600+

This at least is a complete kit



These guys sell brackets to use 09+ dodge rotors and calipers. Seems sweet but $330 is still steep for brackets?


Or 00-09 burb brakes. Brackets are $200

GM Dana 60 Kingpin Big Brake Brackets (16 Inch Wheel) – Torq Motorsports

Also, is this torq who still owes Doug, or a different torq?

One big advantage to me is the slip on rotors. Makes it so much easier to pull the axle apart since you can leave the spindle and wheel hub together.

What am I missing about these brackets being so expensive?

$600?


More added for tech sake

Branik Legacy / Wilwood Chevy Kingpin Dana 60 Big Brake Kit



 
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ECGS has a kit for $700 that includes rotors, calipers and brackets for a 2010 Chevy HD 2500 IIRC.

Pretty sure Torq Motorsports is the defunct Torq 14 guy....

I have the 3/4T Chevy single pistons on a KP60 now...brakes, IMO suck....mine are manual though so that's part of it. I have the ECGS kit but haven't installed it yet so I can't comment on how well it works, but at least it's dual piston on the calipers.
 
I built my ~1980 KP D60 15 years ago using stock brake pads, mostly likely from vatozone or Napa. Matching rear 14bolt with discs. Stock proportioning valve for a J10.

Hundreds or thousands of wheeling trips including UA2011

It's always had really good brakes IMHO.

Still running the same front pads from ~15 years ago.

I don't understand why folks would use expensive aftermarket conversions for these? :confused:
 
I built my ~1980 KP D60 15 years ago using stock brake pads, mostly likely from vatozone or Napa. Matching rear 14bolt with discs. Stock proportioning valve for a J10.

Hundreds or thousands of wheeling trips including UA2011

It's always had really good brakes IMHO.

Still running the same front pads from ~15 years ago.

I don't understand why folks would use expensive aftermarket conversions for these? :confused:

Like I said, I don't have calipers and I'm pretty sure I don't have stock brackets for mine. Even if they work OK, I hate the stupid pins and shit on the stick stuff.

The dodge calipers and rotors are not much different in price than stock stuff, so it's just the brackets that are expensive. I don't see why they are significantly more expensive than the common 14b disc brake brackets.

Fwiw, I'll be using an E350 rear, (same brakes as early 10.5 sterling) so I'd like some fronts that will somewhat match or exceed those?
 
Excuse my ignorance but what is the typical diameter of the rotor used? Is it the 12.8” rotor?
 
Excuse my ignorance but what is the typical diameter of the rotor used? Is it the 12.8” rotor?

Stock gm 60 is 12.8

The 00-09 burb stuff is about the same 12.8

The dodge rotor is 14.1.

I don't think stock rotor size is bad (obviously the same size as mid 00s model 3/4t) just that the calipers are a shit design and not commonly found at parts stores.
 
Stock gm 60 is 12.8

The 00-09 burb stuff is about the same 12.8

The dodge rotor is 14.1.

I don't think stock rotor size is bad (obviously the same size as mid 00s model 3/4t) just that the calipers are a shit design and not commonly found at parts stores.
The irony. I keep on keeping on with the 1ton Bendix D60 calipers (GM & dodge) because the stuff is super available and basically bullet-proof.

I would be quite happy with that caliper (or it's dual-piston variant) and a bracket for a larger rotor.
 
I've always wanted these:


But I run 5 on 5.5 stuff with cheby 1/2 ton single piston calipers and ford d44 brake rotors on my Ford kingpin knuckles, because when I built it, I was running 15" 5 on 5.5 beadlocks, and needed brakes that fit in those wheels. All my stuff came from black bird custom trucks, and is d44 ford rotors with the center opened up, and flat plates for the 7.05" gm caliper slide pin placement.
 
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The irony. I keep on keeping on with the 1ton Bendix D60 calipers (GM & dodge) because the stuff is super available and basically bullet-proof.

I would be quite happy with that caliper (or it's dual-piston variant) and a bracket for a larger rotor.

You're right, :homer: I've read about people not finding them, but I just looked at AutoZone and there is like 4 locations with them in stock within about 100 miles.

If I had them already, I'd probably just run them.
 
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I did Lugnut4x4 in rear. I have swapped to GM Dual Bleeder Loaded Brake Caliper calipers front and rear. Do not recall who made front caliper mounts or rotor source. The stock front caliper where leaking, three times of "lifetime" warranty back to back I was done with "rebuilt" stock calipers.
 
For all the Dayton caliper hate, they have 1.184” more surface area than the Chevy 1/2 ton caliper. Are there larger (expensive) OE rotor and caliper combos out there? Sure. Idk what you’re looking to gain or how many of them fit inside a 17” wheel? Pedal ratio and MC sizing is probably more effective for money and labor invested to get better performing brakes.

There’s nothing stupid about the keys. It literally requires a 1/2” wrench for a pad or caliper/bracket swap. A rock can be used to drive a seized key out, otherwise if lubed and free of debris, the palm of your hand will push them free. Or remove 2 bolts with a 7/8” socket for an on-vehicle caliper replacement without touching the pads or removing the wheel. Just about any oreillys stocks the caliper or will have it by 1pm or next morning.

The ways are no different than a pin. They must be lubricated with a silicon or ceramic based compound to prevent seizing.

There’s also pin type F-250 calipers…..which are replacing the K10 calipers on my D70. Then I’ll have 4 wheel matching discs.
 
For all the Dayton caliper hate, they have 1.184” more surface area than the Chevy 1/2 ton caliper. Are there larger (expensive) OE rotor and caliper combos out there? Sure. Idk what you’re looking to gain or how many of them fit inside a 17” wheel? Pedal ratio and MC sizing is probably more effective for money and labor invested to get better performing brakes.

There’s nothing stupid about the keys. It literally requires a 1/2” wrench for a pad or caliper/bracket swap. A rock can be used to drive a seized key out, otherwise if lubed and free of debris, the palm of your hand will push them free. Or remove 2 bolts with a 7/8” socket for an on-vehicle caliper replacement without touching the pads or removing the wheel. Just about any oreillys stocks the caliper or will have it by 1pm or next morning.

The ways are no different than a pin. They must be lubricated with a silicon or ceramic based compound to prevent seizing.

There’s also pin type F-250 calipers…..which are replacing the K10 calipers on my D70. Then I’ll have 4 wheel matching discs.

Dude the calipers were talking about are like $90 vs the stock ones are $75 :flipoff2:

I just posted the bling options for techs sake.
 
I just posted the bling options for techs sake.

Bling tech.:flipoff2: Wilwood calipers mounted to modified stock mounts. Using a 14" Wilwood rotor and everything still fits in a 17" rim.

IMG_20230712_150156.jpg



IMG_20230719_173554.jpg
 
I've used all the of the kits mentioned here.

So far, best for a 17" rim is the Dodge sourced stuff. I am even upgrading my 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 with em.
 
I've used all the of the kits mentioned here.

So far, best for a 17" rim is the Dodge sourced stuff. I am even upgrading my 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 with em.
Are you using the NWF brackets?
 
Are you using the NWF brackets?
No. I got one kit from ECGS, for my CJ8 (through TTRAxle&FAB ). Another brake set fits knuckles I bought from Down to Fab, they're ultimate 60 ones, My Dodge just fits the factory abutments, etc.
 
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ECGS has a kit for $700 that includes rotors, calipers and brackets for a 2010 Chevy HD 2500 IIRC.

Pretty sure Torq Motorsports is the defunct Torq 14 guy....

I have the 3/4T Chevy single pistons on a KP60 now...brakes, IMO suck....mine are manual though so that's part of it. I have the ECGS kit but haven't installed it yet so I can't comment on how well it works, but at least it's dual piston on the calipers.
Agreed, 801 area code makes sense for Utah

Torq Masters is the locker from a different crew out of the north east.
 
They only thing with most slip fit rotors is the need for a spacer ring to make them hub centric again.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9566.mp4
    5.7 MB
Where'd you get the spacer ring?
Aluminum and a lathe... :)

But you can buy them. The hub I am using is a Yukon yhc63629 which is 4.592" Pilot Diameter for Wheel, .622" Stud Hole Diameter. 4.60 " from wheel mounting surface to end of hub, 7.8" overall height.

The rotor is a Stop- tech, with a rotor ID of 4.8"

So I made 4.592" ID, 4.8" OD rings that are 0.40" thick

Can buy em here:

 
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No lathe here....so gotta find some wheel spacers that are hub centric I suppose.
 
No lathe here....so gotta find some wheel spacers that are hub centric I suppose.
See the link above.

You would not put the rotor on the outside of the spacer though.

So you'd want a hub centric ring for the rotor ID to the hub OD.
 
See the link above.

You would not put the rotor on the outside of the spacer though.

So you'd want a hub centric ring for the rotor ID to the hub OD.
Right...I was just hoping to find a hubcentric spacer that would do that. Unfortunately, what I'm finding so far for '09+ Ram 25/3500 is a 121.3MM hub centric center bore (4.775").
 
Right...I was just hoping to find a hubcentric spacer that would do that. Unfortunately, what I'm finding so far for '09+ Ram 25/3500 is a 121.3MM hub centric center bore (4.775").
The Stop tech rotor I measured is 4.79

The Yukon guy said you want a bit of an interference fit. The hubs do have a taper to them.

Could use these: Aluminum Hub Centric Rings (Set of 4) Starting at:
 
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