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Java's F450 RV

CDA 455 II said:
Side question:
Have you weighed your rig at CAT scale (or equivalent)?


I'm interested in the front axle/rear axle weights.
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Yes but not since it was 100% done.

14240 lbs, 2 100lb dogs, 2 adults and a kid. Half tank fuel and water.

8049 rear 6200 front

But remember I have a 36" ish frame extension so my front end gets loaded mkre.
 
Java230 said:
Reminds me I should hook it back up for winter :lmao:
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What temps were you starting to have issues? Now that I've got two LiFePO4 setups I can compare data to yours, but it doesn't get that cold here.

Still need to get an inverter charger though, so my data won't be as pretty.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
What temps were you starting to have issues? Now that I've got two LiFePO4 setups I can compare data to yours, but it doesn't get that cold here.

Still need to get an inverter charger though, so my data won't be as pretty.
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I'm not 100% sure honestly. I hope a lot of my issues were the loose connection.

Generally they are around 40 ish
 
OK more question on these wheels and tires..... I need new fronts.

Question 1: Can I NOT use the runflat/beadlock insert? They are a TRA -15 degree bead profile. My google fu is not helping on this one.....

Question 2: Can I get these beads seated if I try to mount them myself? The two piece wheel leads itself to getting the tire on, but I am not sure about seating such a beefy tire.

Option two buy groover and rock the old shitty ones :lmao:
 
Not sure on those specific wheels, but on H1s when you use them without the runflat or some kind of spacer, the tire pops off the bead of the wheel exceedingly easy. Had it happen to me a few times with 16.5" steel wheels before I moved to recentered H1s with inserts. I assume it's the same issue with your wheels and tires.

Mounting the tires is pretty easy by yourself. Getting the insert into the tire is the hardest part, especially with runflats. With the insert/runflat, there is no "seating" the tire. Once you bolt the wheel halves together, it's good to air up to your desired pressure and go.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Not sure on those specific wheels, but on H1s when you use them without the runflat or some kind of spacer, the tire pops off the bead of the wheel exceedingly easy. Had it happen to me a few times with 16.5" steel wheels before I moved to recentered H1s with inserts. I assume it's the same issue with your wheels and tires.

Mounting the tires is pretty easy by yourself. Getting the insert into the tire is the hardest part, especially with runflats. With the insert/runflat, there is no "seating" the tire. Once you bolt the wheel halves together, it's good to air up to your desired pressure and go.
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Damn I was hoping I could not use the run flats..... They are HEAVY AF. And really hard to get in and out.
 
OK found some data.... "regular" rims are 5 degree taper, half size are 15 degree simply to mount the tire with the steel belts in the sidewall is my understanding.

Between the stiffer sidewalls and the higher pressures they don't have retention issues.

But I do stupid (Rutted/holed FS roads) with mine.... I am sure that stresses the retention..... I am highly doubtful I can get the beadlock out and back in myself..... I have an email out to hutchinson to see what/if they will say.
 
Really depends on if you ever air down, almost all the f450-550 trucks you see on rd along with ton of box trucks run 19.5 wheels\tires with no beadlock but they run at full pressure 100% of the time (or are supposed to).

There are some multi piece rubber runflats where the center ridge is separate from the side barrels so you just pull the barrel rings out then ridge separately. If they are 2 piece bolt together you just unbolt them and pop them out though it can still be a pain. My 395\85R20's and 16.00R20's had 2 different types with one being solid rubber and other being metal band that had 1 split in it bolted together, no clue what you would have but bet its like the hummer rubber ones.

On getting the runflat out if they are the one piece rubber style like my hummer tires have been I put a ratchet strap (car tie down type not little motorcycle style) around them and suck them in to oval them a bit then lay the legs of engine hoist over tire and hook to the runflat pulling it out by jacking the hoist up. Now getting them back in is a huge pain and sometimes goes easier than others. First try is lube up good, ratchet strap them as far as you can and push one end in as far as you can get it then start levering it in with pry bar and loosen strap to allow it to go back round after you have more than 1\2 to 3\4 of it back in then continue to pry bar it in. If that fails then start with two straps, one tightened as far as you can get in and another running 90 degrees from it just clicked tight enough to keep it on, stuff insert in as far as you can with the normal pry bars and then loosen the first strap and tighten second strap, HUGE PITA and best to have a helper that is able to brace the tire standing up so you can have one ratchet handle facing out each opening of tire. OR skip all the and take it to a rig tire shop that has a tire spreader to get it back in and pay them for your sanity.
 
350TacoZilla said:
Really depends on if you ever air down, almost all the f450-550 trucks you see on rd along with ton of box trucks run 19.5 wheels\tires with no beadlock but they run at full pressure 100% of the time (or are supposed to).

There are some multi piece rubber runflats where the center ridge is separate from the side barrels so you just pull the barrel rings out then ridge separately. If they are 2 piece bolt together you just unbolt them and pop them out though it can still be a pain. My 395\85R20's and 16.00R20's had 2 different types with one being solid rubber and other being metal band that had 1 split in it bolted together, no clue what you would have but bet its like the hummer rubber ones.

On getting the runflat out if they are the one piece rubber style like my hummer tires have been I put a ratchet strap (car tie down type not little motorcycle style) around them and suck them in to oval them a bit then lay the legs of engine hoist over tire and hook to the runflat pulling it out by jacking the hoist up. Now getting them back in is a huge pain and sometimes goes easier than others. First try is lube up good, ratchet strap them as far as you can and push one end in as far as you can get it then start levering it in with pry bar and loosen strap to allow it to go back round after you have more than 1\2 to 3\4 of it back in then continue to pry bar it in. If that fails then start with two straps, one tightened as far as you can get in and another running 90 degrees from it just clicked tight enough to keep it on, stuff insert in as far as you can with the normal pry bars and then loosen the first strap and tighten second strap, HUGE PITA and best to have a helper that is able to brace the tire standing up so you can have one ratchet handle facing out each opening of tire. OR skip all the and take it to a rig tire shop that has a tire spreader to get it back in and pay them for your sanity.
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The problem is these are a run-flat, not just an intern. They are like 5 in tall. After taking these off the wheel, I couldn't even get a pry bar under the top of them between the edge of the tire rubber and the upper edge of the insert.
I posted some pictures of them and number of pages back I think.


I don't really are down much. But I only run 90 PSI in the rear and 80 in the front.
 
Well here we go again.... Its been raining like a MFer and the electrical gremlins are back......

One thing I know for sure, my sealing of the roof marker lights must not have worked..... It was raining out the headliner last time we were in the snow. So I will get those resealed this weekend.

However, speakers were making their fucking noises again..... And Right run signal indicator is glowing again....

IDGAF about the turn signal, but the speaker noise (just loud static bursts) freaks the fuck out of my dog. So one either either tries to jump in bed, or if hes alone, destroys shit.....

So I am thinking, something is shorting to the speakers.

So either at the headunit/under dash, which could be windshield leak, or perhaps in the door? Windshield is original (2208 150k miles). Or cowl drain, but according to the forums that should show up on pass floor, and I have no obvious water anywhere....

Only thing I can think in the door that has power all the time is the power lock. The truck had mice at one point..... Maybe a chewed wire in the door that is shorting to the speaker when water gets past the window seal?

OR bad connection at the door jamb? Wires have bent enough times to crack insulation? (seems unlikely)

OR its under the dash somewhere......


Any other thoughts before I try to tear this thing apart? BTW electrical gremlins suck.
 
don't be surprised where water goes.

I'd pop the a pillar off and see if it's been running into the dash from the headliner.
 
87manche said:
don't be surprised where water goes.

I'd pop the a pillar off and see if it's been running into the dash from the headliner.
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Definitely a possibility. Hopefully just marker lights.... I will silicone the shit out of them shortly. I used RTV under them, but obviously that failed.

But what is shorting?
 
Java230 said:
Definitely a possibility. Hopefully just marker lights.... I will silicone the shit out of them shortly. I used RTV under them, but obviously that failed.

But what is shorting?
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it's probably the amp powering on/off and freaking out.

Where's it located?
When my amp got wet from clogged sunroof drains it died a shrieking and popping death that even turning off the car didn't make stop. I had to get out.
13 speakers at 11 with nothing but static.

i'd start looking at connectors for water, and then I'd start popping the tops off modules and looking for corrosion if I couldn't find any obvious wiring shorts.
 
87manche said:
it's probably the amp powering on/off and freaking out.

Where's it located?
When my amp got wet from clogged sunroof drains it died a shrieking and popping death that even turning off the car didn't make stop. I had to get out.
13 speakers at 11 with nothing but static.

i'd start looking at connectors for water, and then I'd start popping the tops off modules and looking for corrosion if I couldn't find any obvious wiring shorts.
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I believe there is not an amp on this system, just the HU.

Yes loud popping....
 
well amps are just mosfets these days, so if something happens to make them short they go full voltage between source and drain usually.

in my case the actual amp power section was dry and fine, but the signal processor on the board had visible corrosion from it's water exposure and was shorting the pins for the mosfets so they did as commanded by the short, full power to the speakers.

I'd say it's also possible that something else that controls the power to the HU may be flickering on and off, also causing the mosfets to pop.

but I don't know dick about f450 wiring or where things are located.
 
Heard back from Hutchinson. They say an insert should be used. They sell the non run flat version, it's only 11lb. For 475 $:eek:

Damn....

So do I try to find a diy version of the insert?

Go to a 20"LT on other rims?

Mpt81 on 20" rims?


Grrr idk what to do. Those all are going to hurt my wallet....

Or do I just try rocking it without any insert? I don't want a blow out either tho.....
 
I remember that there is a vendor offering inserts for HMMWV wheels out of PVC.

Could you scale that up to your 20”?

Looks like 21” poop pipe would be close to what you need. For example, 21” SDR-26 is 22.047” OD - (2*0.847)=20.353”


There may be other sizes out there closer to what actual dimensions you need. Walking into your local pipe supply may give you a way to buy a damaged or scrap short length.

A540FB32-334F-42A4-B810-DA7B1A3D0BD2.jpeg
 
He's currently on 19.5" but might be able to use something closer to 18" according to that chart.

Years ago guys were taking the humvee runflats and having the runflat mohawk waterjet off.
 
I did think about the pvc/pipe option. I'll measure one of my spare rims.
 
I've got pvc inserts with my recentered h1 rims. Take some careful measurements and you should be able to find and cut a couple rings to the right width for pretty cheap.

The width of the pvc insert needs to be cut to width for your specific tire. The width of the bead of the tire changes per mfg, which changes the width of the insert.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
I've got pvc inserts with my recentered h1 rims. Take some careful measurements and you should be able to find and cut a couple rings to the right width for pretty cheap.

The width of the pvc insert needs to be cut to width for your specific tire. The width of the bead of the tire changes per mfg, which changes the width of the insert.
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Well that makes it a bit more difficult. I threw away all my old tires....
 
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