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Java's F450 RV

My 550 only wears like that on the driver's side, lol. From the sounds of it, toe is the first and cheapest (free) thing to try.
 
Java230 said:
But wouldn't toe do both sides?
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I would guess toe is doing the wear you see on the passenger side, and toe + bad shock and/or suspension bushings somewhere is causing the worse wear you're seeing on the drivers side.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
My 550 only wears like that on the driver's side, lol. From the sounds of it, toe is the first and cheapest (free) thing to try.
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Odd. Drivers is worse on yours too....
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Is your steering wheel dead straight?
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No.... Haven't fixed it since last alignment
But it was before
Derp said:
I would guess toe is doing the wear you see on the passenger side, and toe + bad shock and/or suspension bushings somewhere is causing the worse wear you're seeing on the drivers side.
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Hmmm I have good shocks, but chassis has 150k.


When I did the alignment I did toe in abit. My reading said it would help with tracking.... But the previous tire looked the same, that's why I did the alignment in the first place.
 
Wait man... are you saying you have been burning through $$ tires but have not had a professional alignment done since the suspension install time period? or just haven't had it rechecked since the tire problems started?

I am no expert here so I would do a process of elimination on flat level concrete\blacktop and check with a level on face of wheel if you are getting any weird changes through steering range, then jack up both front corners (chocking back wheels) and check for any play\slop\clunking etc with truck off and someone else turning wheel while you poke and prod. Then replace anything found to be bad and have alignment done and see what they say. It's wearing the wrong side of the tire to be something major like a bent axle I would think but don't rule out something stupid like bad\bent radius arm.
 
350TacoZilla said:
Wait man... are you saying you have been burning through $$ tires but have not had a professional alignment done since the suspension install time period? or just haven't had it rechecked since the tire problems started?

I am no expert here so I would do a process of elimination on flat level concrete\blacktop and check with a level on face of wheel if you are getting any weird changes through steering range, then jack up both front corners (chocking back wheels) and check for any play\slop\clunking etc with truck off and someone else turning wheel while you poke and prod. Then replace anything found to be bad and have alignment done and see what they say. It's wearing the wrong side of the tire to be something major like a bent axle I would think but don't rule out something stupid like bad\bent radius arm.
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No its had a proper alignment. But when it started wearing funny I replaced the track bar (for other reasons) and did a diy alignment then.

I did check the front end and I didn't find any slop, but I didn't have a helper either.

I wish I had a decent shop around here to look at it. The closest alignment place with a rack big enough is 2 hours away.... At this point I want to drop it off and have someone else throw money at the front end....
 
Java230 said:
Now I am still a bit of a diesel noob.... In OD (I hate this trans wont hold 5th!!) around 2k rpms, when it gets a load (think hill) or you try to accelerate slowly enough that it wont drop to 5th, boost gets way high as do EGT's. Dropping into 5th raises the RPMs, boost goes down as does EGTs. I assume that is because its flowing more air?


Now does this mean it needs more fuel or more air when its in the OD situation?
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I know this is an older post, but I bought a 7.3 f550 and drove it 900miles home, it would hold overdrive on the hills, I was pleased with the performance, but didn't want to risk engine coolant temps, egts, split intercooler, etc, a long way from home, so I kicked off OD on the hills and paid a little more for fuel for peace of mind
 
Projectjunkie said:
I know this is an older post, but I bought a 7.3 f550 and drove it 900miles home, it would hold overdrive on the hills, I was pleased with the performance, but didn't want to risk engine coolant temps, egts, split intercooler, etc, a long way from home, so I kicked off OD on the hills and paid a little more for fuel for peace of mind
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I run in tow/haul all the time, but it still sits in OD unless you mat it.
 
I forgot to tell you but on our trip to CO this year pulling my TH and SXS on the bed rack I saw engine oil temps up to 239* in my '18 6.7 Ford.
 
Java230 said:
I run in tow/haul all the time, but it still sits in OD unless you mat it.
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It's not the same thing

I chose to run the engine at a higher rpm, less heat, less boost, maybe a little more fuel. Instead of carrying 2 60lb bags of cement at a time, I know you can do it, but you risk blowing out a back, angle, knee, you make a couple extra trips back to the truck, one at a time, your engine has more moment, but at a substantially reduced load, less chance of catastrophic failure
 
Projectjunkie said:
It's not the same thing

I chose to run the engine at a higher rpm, less heat, less boost, maybe a little more fuel. Instead of carrying 2 60lb bags of cement at a time, I know you can do it, but you risk blowing out a back, angle, knee, you make a couple extra trips back to the truck, one at a time, your engine has more moment, but at a substantially reduced load, less chance of catastrophic failure
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There is no option to lock OD out on this one that I am aware of. Tow/Haul is the only option.
 
Ok guys, I have a leaking npt fitting. It was stripped and I tapped it deeper, but, shoulder of the fitting bottoms out before it fully seals. Try to grind the top down so the shoulder doesn't bottom? It's an awkward spot.

Or try the loctite purple hydraulic and air fitting goop?

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granitestatedestroyer said:
Have you tried a transmission re-learn process?

My 6 liter would downshift on the hills if I lifted for a second and then got back on the throttle. Otherwise it would hold OD all day.
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Yes, but not for awhile now. If I mash it it will downshift, but drops back into OD as soon as it can
 
Java230 said:
Ok guys, I have a leaking npt fitting. It was stripped and I tapped it deeper, but, shoulder of the fitting bottoms out before it fully seals. Try to grind the top down so the shoulder doesn't bottom? It's an awkward spot.

Or try the loctite purple hydraulic and air fitting goop?
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Can you swap it for a nipple then use a female to male adapter to get back to pex? The nipple would not have a shoulder to bottom.
I really think I would have epoxied the "repair" fitting back into the tank and start again with virgin threads for the pex adapter.
I like the anaerobic sealants on threads if adequate cure time is observed.
 
CarterKraft said:
Can you swap it for a nipple then use a female to male adapter to get back to pex? The nipple would not have a shoulder to bottom.
I really think I would have epoxied the "repair" fitting back into the tank and start again with virgin threads for the pex adapter.
I like the anaerobic sealants on threads if adequate cure time is observed.
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Thanks, this is why I ask.... I didn't think if the obvious easy answer.....
 
Java230 said:
Yes, but not for awhile now. If I mash it it will downshift, but drops back into OD as soon as it can
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Googling it seams what you want is easily done via custom tunes, Tow-Haul = 4th gear, full manual control etc.
 
Anyone familiar with SCT tuners? I have all the old spartan files, but they are .gtf files, SCT seems to want .cef files.....

That being said, I may just throw their tow tune on to compare to what I have. It is supposed to do the trans as well. Also has an option for trans only if I want to keep my current tune on there and just try theirs on the trans.
 
custom tunes for 7.3 were pretty cheap if you had the device.
Why not just get a custom trans tune for what you want?
 
New Diode Dynamics SS3 Max Fogs. Have them on the Tundra and they literally are the best out there.

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Another weekend in the desert. Its good.

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Gaco Roof is good so far. A couple nicks on lumps that stuck up, probably due to shoveling snow off the roof.

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Do you ever get that thing stuck in the snow? Or is it heavy enough that no matter how deep the white stuff is, it will find it's way down to solid ground for traction?
 
Derp said:
Do you ever get that thing stuck in the snow? Or is it heavy enough that no matter how deep the white stuff is, it will find it's way down to solid ground for traction?
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Snow has not been an issue yet, ice however (or super nasty slush) is a PAIN. Its ok until you stop, then you cannot get moving again.... The Maxtrax are great for this. The RV parking area at one ski lot is right at the edge of the lot and a little downhill, ice and slush seem to build up there.... I have been stuck there a couple times :emb:
 
Circling back, does anyone know if the heater core always has flow on these? Google isn't helping.....
 
Java230 said:
Circling back, does anyone know if the heater core always has flow on these? Google isn't helping.....
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How easy would it be to pull one heater core hose and splice in a bit of clear hose to see if there's constant flow? I know these trucks are an absolute pain in the ass to work on anymore, so the clear hose idea may not work that well.
 
JNHEscher said:
How easy would it be to pull one heater core hose and splice in a bit of clear hose to see if there's constant flow? I know these trucks are an absolute pain in the ass to work on anymore, so the clear hose idea may not work that well.
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It's a pain, I think 99% of vehicles constantly circulate?
 
Java230 said:
It's a pain, I think 99% of vehicles constantly circulate?
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Last few newer vehicles I worked on and happened to look up around the firewall had an electronic valve on a heater core hose. With that, I'm assuming that the flow gets closed off when there is no demand for heat.

Is the heater core accessible enough that you could place your hand against it to feel for warmth with the engine warmed up and the heat turned off?
 
JNHEscher said:
Last few newer vehicles I worked on and happened to look up around the firewall had an electronic valve on a heater core hose. With that, I'm assuming that the flow gets closed off when there is no demand for heat.

Is the heater core accessible enough that you could place your hand against it to feel for warmth with the engine warmed up and the heat turned off?
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I'll dig around and see. I should be able to feel the in/out and see if they are both warm.

Lots of snow. Had a grab a couple cars out of the ditch.....

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Great ass weekend. Other than breaking my ass sledding.... :lmao:

How all good times start
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How it looked when we showed up Friday night.
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And Sunday morning.
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That's a propane tank by the front tire :smokin:
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Added a little table on the side of the truck, pretty slick unit from Expedition Upfitters. Should be perfect for a quick BBQ or just drink spot.
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The drive down got interesting. 1/3 of the way down I come around a corner and see a car stopped... Stuck. Trying to turn around. Park and walk closer and there is a Subaru well stuck in the ditch behind them too. Fun.... They had been spinning in that area for awhile, it was POLISHED. walk back tot he truck and get the Maxtrax (which was freaking amazing in snow....). A 5 point turn later car one is aimed back down hill. The off camber of the road was freaking the lady driving out, but keeping the pass side in the deep fresh stuff she got around the Subaru. Next try.... Drag Subaru out of ditch. Going uphill was a no go, I just spun and slid towards the ditch too.... Chained up, drove around him and tried dragging downhill, no go. Ditch was getting deeper. Last ditch effort was 4 people pushing, I dug down to gravel on the drivers side and we built a maxtrax bridge on the pass side.... Somehow that worked.... One pic my wife took when it was all over.

Maxtrax bridge he could dive on to combat the polished snow and camber....
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