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Java's F450 RV

How about those cascading projects? :lmao: I wanted to add a tank level sensor to my Color Control, the little icon says "no tanks" had stared at me long enough. I have a SeeLevel gauge on it, JUNK. Stick on sensor that doesn't stick on, is inaccessible etc. It sucks.

So Victron makes a resistive sensor adaptor for the color control. Easy, it uses the can bus connection and I have a free slot there. Order the stupidly over priced adapter. Add tank sensor (KUS REALLY nice piece for the price). Run the wires, which is a major bitch, they are at the back of a 48" deep, 9" wide drawer. I cant reach it, and I don't fit in that hole. But the wires are run, ends terminated, hook it up and nothing. After some googling, Well it turns out the color control does not power the can bus network. you need another over priced widget to power it. Fuck this shit. For a few bucks more I can get the Cerbo, and the touchscreen. It has way more capability than the color control, including built in tank monitoring for like 6 tanks?

Returned the over priced adapter, ordered a cerbo. Oh but wait, the touch screen is a different size than the color control, of course it is.... And I have a cutout sized for the color control. Some more googling says they make an adapter. OK fine. Order that too.

So all the connections are at the back of the color control. The cerbo is a bigger box.... So I will need to re route all this shit.
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Sender in the tank, set in 3m 4000. Its all stainless, fuel and water rated. And the stupid adapter thing I immediately ripped back out.
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Big ass hole.
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And the adapter, the bezel is so fucking huge. Well that wont work either. (and I didn't set up an acct when I ordered it so I cant return it now....)
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Fawk it. Sheet of abs, make my own damn adapter.
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Mounted the cerbo on the other wall, re routed all the cables. Meh. Its a little messy. Oh and why do they put fucking blinking LED's on everything?? Electrical tape to the rescue.
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Well it works and I can see my water level. Now to run a wire to the propane tank :lmao:
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If anyone wants a color control, BT and wifi modules LMK
 
I can use the color control and BT/WIFI modules. I'm going to get a victron inverter for my rig.

I'll send you a PM.
 
Bout damn time haha

Sucks you are having all the trouble, I think you will be better off in the long run.

Those WEMA/KUS senders are bad ass. CAT uses them on most products these days and failures are very rare.
 
CarterKraft said:
Bout damn time haha

Sucks you are having all the trouble, I think you will be better off in the long run.

Those WEMA/KUS senders are bad ass. CAT uses them on most products these days and failures are very rare.
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Yeah I was seriously impressed with the sender, even if it is such a simple thing, being well build is still nice. And under $40.
 
Java230 said:
Yeah I was seriously impressed with the sender, even if it is such a simple thing, being well build is still nice. And under $40.
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Yeah and that made it pretty easy to purchase them.
We have a certain class of machines that had problems with them but it turned out that the float was hitting a internal wall in the tank. I cut one open to see what was wrong with it and found there was nothing wrong with it and it is super simple, while it has a ton of reed switches they are usually very high reliability and the no need for "float swing" and non contact to the tank contacts is bitchin.
 
Soooo where is the best spot to T into the cooling system on the 6.4's? A local buddy just gave me a new hot water heater than uses a coolant loop..... I was thinking heater core?

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Assuming I can fix these threads
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Java230 said:
Soooo where is the best spot to T into the cooling system on the 6.4's? A local buddy just gave me a new hot water heater than uses a coolant loop..... I was thinking heater core?

51203857374_83be1ef0cd_b.jpg


Assuming I can fix these threads
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I would think heater core hoses would be easiest, not sure if best.

threads would be easy right? Thread it deeper with a tap and screw a "street" fitting in with some anerobic thread sealant or just JB weld it in?
 
CarterKraft said:
I would think heater core hoses would be easiest, not sure if best.

threads would be easy right? Thread it deeper with a tap and screw a "street" fitting in with some anerobic thread sealant or just JB weld it in?
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Yes a tap is in the mail, hopefully that is the easy fix!
 
Oil cooler lines look ripe for Ting into? Room to add isolation valves it appears too.

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Java230 said:
Yeah I was seriously impressed with the sender, even if it is such a simple thing, being well build is still nice. And under $40.
Click to expand...
I was looking up liquid level senders for the bus a couple months ago and came across KUS. Been swooning over the whole product site. Awesome to read that they are indeed as high quality as I was assuming. Kinda smitten with the fact that you're way ahead of me with your build and using similar or identical products so that I can see some real abuse on them lol.
 
JNHEscher said:
I was looking up liquid level senders for the bus a couple months ago and came across KUS. Been swooning over the whole product site. Awesome to read that they are indeed as high quality as I was assuming. Kinda smitten with the fact that you're way ahead of me with your build and using similar or identical products so that I can see some real abuse on them lol.
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I'm laughing now that we are all swooning over a level sender. But yes. It is really really nicely built. :lmao:
 
Java230 said:
Soooo where is the best spot to T into the cooling system on the 6.4's? A local buddy just gave me a new hot water heater than uses a coolant loop..... I was thinking heater core?

Assuming I can fix these threads
Click to expand...

That's a really neat water heater. Looks like heat exchanger for heating, in addition to a 120/240v electric heating element?
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
That's a really neat water heater. Looks like heat exchanger for heating, in addition to a 120/240v electric heating element?
Click to expand...
Exactly, que 1500w 120v electric element, and a heat exchanger for a coolant loop. It's a little bigger than the current one..... But hopefully I can get it in there. Microwave and sink drain are going to have to figure out how to coexist.
 
Java230 said:
Exactly, que 1500w 120v electric element, and a heat exchanger for a coolant loop. It's a little bigger than the current one..... But hopefully I can get it in there. Microwave and sink drain are going to have to figure out how to coexist.
Click to expand...

Super fucking cool. Looks like they only cost $300 as well. I'm glad you shared that, i'm 100% going to use one of those in my rig.

WATER HEATERS | kuuma-products

www.kuumaproducts.com www.kuumaproducts.com
 
Not sure on the 6.4, but the oil cooler lines on the 6.0 would be a perfect spot. I have a full-flow coolant filter in that exact location.
 
Found the instructions for IPR's coolant heater. They use the heater core connections. If I do that, If I T into them will I get any flow at all?

Should I go out of heater core, into HWT, back to heater core hose? Or tank first then heater core? I don't want to loose heat output in the cab.
 
The water tank is not that big, so from tank dead cold to tank hot, I can't imagine you'll lose a bunch of cab heat. Once the water tank is up to temp, obviously you'll lose almost nothing, and the engine still produces plenty of heat.
 
I'm not sure if it makes a big difference in flow but I always like using Y shaped splice instead of T shaped ones. If you get your supply from the heater core just make sure your bypassing the heater control valve, otherwise you would have to have heat on in truck before running the inline heater. I wonder if there would be any way to allow that heater to work as a block heater also, that way when get up in morning to leave truck would be pre-heated? Like an inline water pump for when engine is off type of deal.
 
350TacoZilla said:
I'm not sure if it makes a big difference in flow but I always like using Y shaped splice instead of T shaped ones. If you get your supply from the heater core just make sure your bypassing the heater control valve, otherwise you would have to have heat on in truck before running the inline heater. I wonder if there would be any way to allow that heater to work as a block heater also, that way when get up in morning to leave truck would be pre-heated? Like an inline water pump for when engine is off type of deal.
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My concern is I really wont get any flow? wont the coolant just take the path of least resistance.

I am sure I could add a little pump, just run it when I have shore power maybe?

If I was doing this over I would have an espar coolant heater, preheating engine and running radiant heating in the floor. Next time....

GLTHFJ60 said:
The water tank is not that big, so from tank dead cold to tank hot, I can't imagine you'll lose a bunch of cab heat. Once the water tank is up to temp, obviously you'll lose almost nothing, and the engine still produces plenty of heat.
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Its 6 gal, I believe they say about an hour to heat up. So that is a pretty good thermal brick.

Where is the heater control valve?! Shit. I guess If I tap into the coolant system pre heater core that would fix that issue.


Next.... The heater core lines are 3/4", the tank wants 5/8". How much am and going to screw with the heat if I step down to 5/8" heater lines?
 
How is the heater valve setup? If it blocks flow (vs bypassing) I would use the oil cooler line, put it after the oil cooler and it will help reduce the load that the radiator needs to handle.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
How is the heater valve setup? If it blocks flow (vs bypassing) I would use the oil cooler line, put it after the oil cooler and it will help reduce the load that the radiator needs to handle.

Aaron Z
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No idea, but looking at the pictures it must be inside the cab behind the firewall, which would mean I would need to use the incoming to the heater core side. Although the coolant filters are installed inline with the heater core and it would make sense to have those always getting flow?
 
Eapar makes a 5 way valve that is sold with there hydronic heater set up. It will allow ine circuit to heat up first before the entire system gets fluid. it may be a solution for your plumbing?
 
Dejeeper said:
Eapar makes a 5 way valve that is sold with there hydronic heater set up. It will allow ine circuit to heat up first before the entire system gets fluid. it may be a solution for your plumbing?
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I totally forgot about that valve, maybe? But I might be over thinking and complicating things.

Anyone else have thoughts on heater core vs oil cooler?
 
Java230 said:
Anyone else have thoughts on heater core vs oil cooler?
Click to expand...

My initial impression...the tank is gonna act as another heat sink; having it in the heater core loop could reduce the in-cab heat available, having it in the oil cooler loop could help shed more heat from the engine and reduce load on the radiator. Logistics aside the oil cooler sounds more beneficial to me.
 
vetteboy79 said:
My initial impression...the tank is gonna act as another heat sink; having it in the heater core loop could reduce the in-cab heat available, having it in the oil cooler loop could help shed more heat from the engine and reduce load on the radiator. Logistics aside the oil cooler sounds more beneficial to me.
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That is what I was thinking, the coolant should also be hotter if you tap in after the oil cooler as it will have just picked up heat from the oil cooler and that should make it heat quicker.

Aaron Z
 
Good call guys. I'll figure out what is in and out of the cooler. Looks like more room for isolation valves there to me.

Think it will be ok to neck it down to 5/8 lines from 3/4?
 
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