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Java's F450 RV

Java230 said:
That is the log of SOC from the shunt.

I will reset to factory.....

And connections are like this. I am 99% sure that is the BMV + at the top.

51047225901_eff8f226de_b.jpg
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We suck, you can even see it is not connected in this pic:homer:
 
CarterKraft said:
We suck, you can even see it is not connected in this pic:homer:
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I have things wired differently than in that pic.... There are 3 connections on that terminal now. IIRC I went back and swapped the jumpers around to make the load path a bit more even between the batteries. That must have been when it happened....

87manche said:
so what I would do is charge them all separately until full charge, so they're back to being balanced.
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I don't have a 6v charger..... Should I run an equalize charge?
 
CarterKraft said:
Yeah that will do it LOL.:lmao:
So were you just running one batt or 2 or 3?
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Yup.... My only concern is I think it was 3, and that I may have been sending 12v to a 6v cell?


GLTHFJ60 said:
Ah, figured that was a disassembly pic.

Which wire is that?
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One of the jumpers between the series 6v I believe. I didn't look close enough. I was slightly frustrated.
 
Java230 said:
I have things wired differently than in that pic.... There are 3 connections on that terminal now. IIRC I went back and swapped the jumpers around to make the load path a bit more even between the batteries. That must have been when it happened....



I don't have a 6v charger..... Should I run an equalize charge?
Click to expand...

yeah. It will probably discharge them and recharge them.
I'm not sure how your box does it.
 
I would just connect them back up in pairs and charge them. Run a equalize cycle on each in pairs then bank them all back up after they are full.
If you are worried about the bank that was disconnected you could run the higher voltage battery down with a couple of 1156 light bulbs to where the voltage matches each other then pair back up and cycle as suggested.

I don't think you hurt the one battery by applying 12v because there was no negative path for the 12 v to flow. IF there was you wouldn't have a problem in the first place.

It does concern me that you might even have poor capacity of the single series bank though but that might just be the temp difference of your situation vs mine.
I only have two flooded GC2 battery's rated 215AH.
 
CarterKraft said:
I would just connect them back up in pairs and charge them. Run a equalize cycle on each in pairs then bank them all back up after they are full.
If you are worried about the bank that was disconnected you could run the higher voltage battery down with a couple of 1156 light bulbs to where the voltage matches each other then pair back up and cycle as suggested.

I don't think you hurt the one battery by applying 12v because there was no negative path for the 12 v to flow. IF there was you wouldn't have a problem in the first place.

It does concern me that you might even have poor capacity of the single series bank though but that might just be the temp difference of your situation vs mine.
I only have two flooded GC2 battery's rated 215AH.
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Ill ask the tech guys if I should run an equalize, its 1V higher than absorption, but at a steady 1/4 of the charge current for one hour.
 
Java230 said:
Ill ask the tech guys if I should run an equalize, its 1V higher than absorption, but at a steady 1/4 of the charge current for one hour.
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Good idea because thinking about it know AGM may not like equalizing?
 
Start to a possibly stupidly overcomplicated project. I want to be able to work from this thing occasionally. I need better cell/data service. The aluminum box kills it, we have a little mifi device, and it works ok inside usually, but it generally better on the roof. Plus I seem to always end up in marginal coverage areas....

So, I will be adding a cell system to the truck. Part one, antenna lifter. I don't want giant ass antenna on the roof, one it will put me over 12'6 and two it will get ripped off by branches. 32" stoke pneumatic cylinder should do the trick. Antenna is 30" tall. The plan is to mount the antenna to the top. Hopefully it doesn't flex the shaft too bad... Its 6.2 lbs. Shaft is 5/8" SS

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Data and plumbing parts.
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Got a couple bid ass nuts to mount the cylinder. 1 3/8" fine thread. I powder coated them which turned out to be a bad idea. If anyone knows where to find a 1 3/8" aluminum nut let me know.... I see some as "panel mount rings" but they don't specify thread pitch. More jamb nut style ideally, these are huge.

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A couple quick mounted to bolt to the door.

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More coming, antenna is supposed to show up today.
 
Mounted the cylinder.
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Antenna get mounted on top of the cylinder.
51069276978_c7cf533eb7_b.jpg


Bulkhead fittings for the air lines get them inside, then air switch.
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And it goes up!
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Java230 said:
Mounted the cylinder.
51070074417_fbe8774af8_b.jpg


Antenna get mounted on top of the cylinder.
51069276978_c7cf533eb7_b.jpg


Bulkhead fittings for the air lines get them inside, then air switch.
51070074442_40f85ced63_b.jpg


And it goes up!
51069276678_2784e95e75_b.jpg
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Pretty freaking cool.
My mind starts racing of all the cool ideas for that.
 
If it works! I am a little worried about the cylinder and its seals bouncing down the road with the antenna on top. But time will tell how it does!
 
I doubt you have to worry about the seals, we abuse the hell out of those cylinders at work and never have problems with them. 500 psi will hammer the rod out of the piston eventually so just try to keep your pressure reasonable
 
Firstram said:
I doubt you have to worry about the seals, we abuse the hell out of those cylinders at work and never have problems with them. 500 psi will hammer the rod out of the piston eventually so just try to keep your pressure reasonable
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I'm worried about the side to side motion, think wiggling going down the road.

Running 150psi
 
Goes up, goes down. Feels pretty solid locked in the down position. All the weight of the antenna is right at the bottom which helps. Uses a lot of air. Compressor kicks on about half way up.

Ignore the booger welds.... Wjust stick the clevis that came with the cylinder to a piece of plate. Powdercoated it and bolted the antenna on. Get well above the roof line!

51073724051_739e66132b_b.jpg

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Need some cable management, I am thinking a piece of light pressure surgical tubing, that should help pull the cables back inside.

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I hope I can get it wired up in camp tonight and test it out :smokin:
 
You attached a giant black dildo to a pneumatic fucking machine and bolted it to the side of your RV, and I can't unsee this.

However I am genuinely curious to hear how it works out for you compared to just the hotspot you were using, since I'm in a similar boat of wanting to spend more time working from remote places with a similar setup.
 
Derp said:
You attached a giant black dildo to a pneumatic fucking machine and bolted it to the side of your RV, and I can't unsee this.

However I am genuinely curious to hear how it works out for you compared to just the hotspot you were using, since I'm in a similar boat of wanting to spend more time working from remote places with a similar setup.
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That is 100% correct :flipoff2:

Ill let you know. I am going to use a Mofi router inside the truck. They will be releasing a 5g version soon if your looking for one.
 
My gut reaction is your issue if you have one will be cyclic fatgiue of the "cut" thread root where that clevis goes on.
I could see machining a nut with a sleeve to stabilize the clevis to the ground diameter of the rod.

Look up Duramax/Hummer tie rod sleeves.

The seals, etc will be fine providing UV is not a issue, the wear bands inside the piston and head will keep it precisely centered.
 
CarterKraft said:
My gut reaction is your issue if you have one will be cyclic fatgiue of the "cut" thread root where that clevis goes on.
I could see machining a nut with a sleeve to stabilize the clevis to the ground diameter of the rod.

Look up Duramax/Hummer tie rod sleeves.

The seals, etc will be fine providing UV is not a issue, the wear bands inside the piston and head will keep it precisely centered.
Click to expand...

I'll take a look, but yes, base of the threads is the break point.
 
Derp said:
You attached a giant black dildo to a pneumatic fucking machine and bolted it to the side of your RV, and I can't unsee this.

However I am genuinely curious to hear how it works out for you compared to just the hotspot you were using, since I'm in a similar boat of wanting to spend more time working from remote places with a similar setup.
Click to expand...

Weekend report. It works GOOD.

I have a leak somewhere, it drops down over night. I was closing the valve I put in between the compressor and switch since as I was about the leave it started leaking/blowing fittings off. I didn't have time to fuck around with it yet. May be a little more pressure than the switch is happy with.

Router got installed on the back wall above the toilet.
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Signal at the router.
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Straight from the phone
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On the wifi. Almost double the speed.
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Warm weather feels pretty damn good.
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Pizza was good too. Pellet fired oven is pretty slick.
51012436875_1749a64a19_b.jpg
 
Pizza looks bad ass.

I was surprised to hear you say it took 150 psi to lift it.
 
Java230 said:
Seems to be all better.... Stayed above 12.5 with 10 amp loads. I think that was the issue.... Big solar panel makes quick work of topping up in the summer. I forgot to look at voltage when the microwave was on, but I was around 12.7 no load 99% of the time.
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Love that it's fixed.

You still have to recalibrate your bmv-700 for it to show an accurate SOC moving forward.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Love that it's fixed.

You still have to recalibrate your bmv-700 for it to show an accurate SOC moving forward.
Click to expand...

Yeah I will reset it... Maybe tonight if I remember :laughing:it it's been on the charger all week so should be at an accurate 100% soc
 
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