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Java does a Cabin

Lots of chip piles made. Trimmed and cleared a lot more this last weekend.
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Finished another 30ft of ski fence
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Used my oba to finish nailing off the fire gazebo
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Pulled stump out of drainage swale
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And if you see a theme here, this thing is HANDY.
Douched the Contrainer and slid everything back so I have parking room.
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Finished the fan up. Printed another adapter just a little bigger and done.
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Good weekend!
 
Radiator for a heat exchanger if I can get the nipples out.
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Heat the casting with a weed burner and use an impact. A pipe wrench will squeeze and break shit when you apply "100yo steam system" amounts of torque.
 
But theromspihon isn't working for me....
there's a reason the thermosiphon flatheads had 3" radiator hoses right outta the top of the engine and up a foot to the radiator

you need a lot of drop and very free flowing tubes
drop you a sump pump in that tub, careful not to get any fingers or toes in it
 
there's a reason the thermosiphon flatheads had 3" radiator hoses right outta the top of the engine and up a foot to the radiator

you need a lot of drop and very free flowing tubes
drop you a sump pump in that tub, careful not to get any fingers or toes in it
I was wondering if both inlet and outlet needed to be under water line?

Thoughts?
 
I was wondering if both inlet and outlet needed to be under water line?

Thoughts?
yes 100% and you can not have ANY air bubbles in the lines or they'll airlock the flow
the "hot" line has to run uphill the entire way to the discharge without any dips
those little hoses won't flow shit anyways

you might be able to put a couple water well check valves in the lines, the lower one having the spring removed so it sucks open with zero pressure drop
make it burble like a coffee maker or certain tank-style block heaters, where it boils the water and the expansion makes the valves pump fluid
 
yes 100% and you can not have ANY air bubbles in the lines or they'll airlock the flow
the "hot" line has to run uphill the entire way to the discharge without any dips
those little hoses won't flow shit anyways

you might be able to put a couple water well check valves in the lines, the lower one having the spring removed so it sucks open with zero pressure drop
make it burble like a coffee maker or certain tank-style block heaters, where it boils the water and the expansion makes the valves pump fluid
Ok thank you!

I can run the hot uphill without dips. Valve is an interesting idea....

Line size was determined by the nipple size on the radiator. Maybe it will not work without a pump
 
Doesn't have to hold a lot of pressure. Just enough to get the water to still be liquid at a temperature it wouldn't otherwise be. It's the volume that gets you. A quart at 10psi is a whole lotta volume of steam at 0psi
yup

like pulling off a rad cap
shit flies all over and makes you into a lobster
 
yup

like pulling off a rad cap
shit flies all over and makes you into a lobster
Yeah do Not want.

It was queefing when I had the hot line level/uphill


 
I've got one set up with ½" copper coiled inside a washing machine drum, uphill run to an old cast iron bathtub.

Works really well just Thermo-syphoning. Takes about an hour to get hot enough that you have to add cold water to be able to actually get in. I've never had a pump on it.

You need lids for when it's heating up too. Makes a big difference, the hottest water is on the top just begging to equalise with ambient air temp. Make the centre lid small and it can stay on there to sit your drink/book/whatever on.

Also need a little flap or something to disperse the incoming hot water to the sides or it will try and burn a hole through you.

I'll get some pics.
 
but if you do the check valves and carefully monitor the water level in the boiler it'll turn that thumping into movement

I've got one set up with ½" copper coiled inside a washing machine drum, uphill run to an old cast iron bathtub.

Works really well just Thermo-syphoning. Takes about an hour to get hot enough that you have to add cold water to be able to actually get in. I've never had a pump on it.

You need lids for when it's heating up too. Makes a big difference, the hottest water is on the top just begging to equalise with ambient air temp. Make the centre lid small and it can stay on there to sit your drink/book/whatever on.

Also need a little flap or something to disperse the incoming hot water to the sides or it will try and burn a hole through you.

I'll get some pics.


Mine is about even or a little downhill to the tub.

I was thinking a valve would make it pump.

I had it tarped, but it was just steam yesterday
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Hmmmm outlet above water line?

I Think my tub is way too close to the same level at the heater.
 
Hmmmm outlet above water line?

I Think my tub is way too close to the same level at the heater.
Would have lost a bit of water from bodies getting in/out.
I usually fill it just to the top of that fitting.

The more vertical gain you can get the better.
That's why the old wood fired stoves with the water jacket in back have the tank in the ceiling.
 
Would have lost a bit of water from bodies getting in/out.
I usually fill it just to the top of that fitting.

The more vertical gain you can get the better.
That's why the old wood fired stoves with the water jacket in back have the tank in the ceiling.
I have one of those old stoves too....

I have a pump ordered, seems like the easy button.
 
Mine is pretty beat, some of the insulation bricks have fallen out. Its not in use....

I've replaced most of the bricks in mine, still have a few to go. It's pretty easy. Best I can tell, it's been in continuous use since 1958.

We might be getting a little off track now. :laughing:
 
I've replaced most of the bricks in mine, still have a few to go. It's pretty easy. Best I can tell, it's been in continuous use since 1958.

We might be getting a little off track now. :laughing:
Ha I don't mind, the tracks are really crooked around here.

It came with the cabin. Heavy AF. might be good for burn ban time tho? Idk
 
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