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iBooster Electric Brake Booster

JohnnyJ said:
Not that I've heard. It will depend on what brake package you are using.

I believe snivilous is running 99-04 superduty brakes on his buggy with the Accord master and is happy.

Hydraulic ratios of Accord master cylinder with common 1-ton brakes
Accord factory 10:1
99-04 Ford SD60 17:1
05+ Ford SD60 21:1
79 Chevy D60 22:1


There's a guy selling iBooster with a Wilwood 1.125 master adapted to it for chevy square bodies if you google.
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I have disc kp 60 in front and el dorado calipers on 14b in the rear and 42” tires. How do I calculate from there? Sorry noob question.
 
Gumbybronco said:
I have disc kp 60 in front and el dorado calipers on 14b in the rear and 42” tires. How do I calculate from there? Sorry noob question.
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piston area of calipers / piston area of MC
 
Thanks guys. I ordered a gen 2 iBooster from a 2019 Accord with wire pigtails and no mc from eBay. I want to see if the master I have on the shelf will work. I’ll let you know how it goes.
 
Planning an iBooster myself, but curious on master.

Running 3/4 ton Chevy calipers F&R on a D60/14b combo...might need to sit down with that brake calculator.
 
Update on my brakes since I spent a few days at KOH, did a couple rock trails and probably 100+ miles in the dirt (NOT RACING). Also some additional specs and stuff I measured that Hydrodynamics had asked:

-Pedal ratio 5:1, might be closer to 6:1
-Stainless steel brake lines the ENTIRE way, no hardline whatsoever
-Honda Accord brake master
-99-04 Super duty axles with stock type brakes, as I recall it's the powerstop kit with rotors/pads/calipers, but the calipers I believe are just factory and painted

The brakes are extremely good. And the ibooster being electric has perks I didn't think I'd use right away. At one point I was a winch point without the vehicle running, and I was able to keep the tires locked up with just the ignition on and it was easy and could do it all day. Could maybe do that with a vacuum setup once or twice, but I could get on the brakes and let off (we were trying to get the buggy fixed since a fuse blew) all day.

Bleeding I've done with the booster on and off. My setup with the booster on feels "squishy" because of how de-sensitive the brakes feel due to how much assist is going on. If you turn the booster off you can push the brake pedal halfway or so and it's a good bit of effort, you turn it on and you can bottom it out with your hand pretty easy. I'll bleed them with the booster on, then turn it off to feel the pedal and see if it's squishy. Part of that could be from the stainless lines swelling.

My biggest complaint is pedal feel. At one point I had my foot on the brake (left foot braking setup) and didn't even realize how much braking was going on until I stopped and could smell how hot the brakes were. I can lock up the 40s and have not been worried at all about the brake performance. But the pedal (WITH MY SETUP) does not give a lot of feedback between barely pressing it and max braking.

The pedal ratio I think is on the higher side, and I have stainless brake lines, and it's a small master cylinder. I think any/all of those could be changed to upgrade the pedal feel, which really is just how much force does it take to get a reaction. Again, the pedal is squishy, but the brakes aren't squishy, there is just a lot more assist going on than I anticipated.

I have an ibooster on my FJ40 and my Hilux now, both of which are 70s vehicles with a pretty large motion ratio at the pedal. Both of those will lock up the brakes like there's no tomorrow. The FJ specifically is worse than the buggy I think, there is hardly any feedback from the pedal and you don't have to push it far to lock them up. You go to slam on the brakes, and really you just need to blow on the pedal to do what you want. This is a setup issue, not a booster issue. Just something to tune in. I would 100% have no issue running the ibooster and Honda Accord master on 99-04 super duty brakes right out of the box. The master seems to flow enough to do everything needed, but small master = less force from your leg, plus you have a ton of assist from the ibooster, so without a lower pedal ratio it might take some getting used to. Kind of like a vehicle with a soft throttle pedal versus one with a huge return spring.
 
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You need to find a way to run the booster with a remote.

Would be tits for holding/unlocking the brakes when self winching or bleeding.
 
arse_sidewards said:
You need to find a way to run the booster with a remote.

Would be tits for holding/unlocking the brakes when self winching or bleeding.
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And as a parking brake. Wouldn't be too bad to have a bar or cross pin that falls into place and retracts with a lever, though that's not specific to electric boosters.
 
arse_sidewards said:
You need to find a way to run the booster with a remote.

Would be tits for holding/unlocking the brakes when self winching or bleeding.
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Already exists. And with the function you are talking about.
ECU is $300 ish.
 
Bebop said:
Already exists. And with the function you are talking about.
ECU is $300 ish.
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Not worth $300 unless that $300 also gets me hardware that has OEM levels of R&D and reliability testing behind it. :flipoff2:
 
arse_sidewards said:
Not worth $300 unless that $300 also gets me hardware that has OEM levels of R&D and reliability testing behind it. :flipoff2:
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Better complain about it on an online forum :homer:

The booster is CANBus operated. Unless you're running the Tesla BCM, your wish won't happen.
 
Bebop said:
Remote installs with auto-hold feature are not using CANBus ?
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I was under the impression that most people installing this were direct powering it with analog electronics and skipping the canbus stuff.

Maybe I'm getting confused between the gen1 and gen2 booster.
 
Bebop said:
Are you familiar with CAN messages and general CANBus operation ? It is not plug and play and you have to write part of your own interface.
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Not enough to write my own.
It would be great if someone made a plug in module that would do the brake-hold function.
 
Gumbybronco said:
Not enough to write my own.
It would be great if someone made a plug in module that would do the brake-hold function.
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I'm sure that could be done and price would do up.
 
For parking brake, just use electric rear calipers.

I am doing a pair on my CJ8's 14B
 
Bebop said:
Are you familiar with CAN messages and general CANBus operation ? It is not plug and play and you have to write part of your own interface.
Click to expand...
Are the required messages documented anywhere public? I doubt you'd need a $300 ECU to translate a few switch inputs to CAN messages, especially in an occasional use trail rig.
 
With the donor lists… is there a reason I wouldn’t want to source an Ibooster from an MDX or RDX?
 
[memphis] said:
With the donor lists… is there a reason I wouldn’t want to source an Ibooster from an MDX or RDX?
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I ASSume that list is just vehicles that have been confirmed by people and not necessarily showing the only vehicles that work. I would think any vehicle with an ibooster would function the same.
 
Do the OE master cylinders seems to be working well enough for people?

I see them OE used for $60-70 on ebay, or $100ish for Beck/Arnley (P/N 0720021), or $140 for Dorman.

Thinking of going with the Beck/Arnley for $100.

As a note, it looks like the same era Acura RDX use the same booster/MC as the Accord.
 
Wiring info on the Accord harness.
Both plugs had about 3" to 4" of wire on them.
The small plug has 4 wires that match the large plug. PNK, BLU, BRN,YLW all 18G or 20G
I added 10" of each wire between the two and had plenty of slack.
The purple wire 18G and the yellow wire 12G got connected with the same butt connector to a 10G that went to a fused battery disconnect.
The black wire 12G got connected to a 10G that went to ground.
Whenever the battery is turned on the brakes are on even with the ignition off.
 
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