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iBooster Electric Brake Booster

CarterKraft said:
Am I being a Nancy for being scared about having a single point of failure via the clutch/slave master vs a dual circuit normal brake system?
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Yes, balance bolt breaks your dual master is useless. It's got a single POF as well...

Masters, slaves and lines typically just don't blow out and have nothing. There would be signs long before total failure.
 
94toytruck said:
Yes, balance bolt breaks your dual master is useless. It's got a single POF as well...

Masters, slaves and lines typically just don't blow out and have nothing. There would be signs long before total failure.
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I had one decide to start leaking at the travel stop bolt. Was parking in a parking lot and pedal went right to the floor.
 
94toytruck said:
Yes, balance bolt breaks your dual master is useless. It's got a single POF as well...

Masters, slaves and lines typically just don't blow out and have nothing. There would be signs long before total failure.
Click to expand...
Say what?

Poo poo me all you want but I've been there, stab the breaks at 65mph and pedal goes to the floor, you better wake up LeeRoy.
Anything with a balance bar is a race only deal as far as I know, regular vehicle would have redundant systems in regards to the hydraulic parts.

MY 2020 service truck that I drive everyday has blown to brake lines from rubbing another line, the first time with 14k miles on it and the second with 65k. This same truck was the cause for a company wide STOP drive after the first failure but I'll be damned if it didn't do it again.
How I didn't kill a bus load of nuns the second time I have no idea but even though the dual circuit sucked for breaking it was much better than hitting a bridge pier at 65mph...
 
I'm not talking about dual master cylinders but dual circuit. The clutch/slave combo will be single circuit brakes in this remote example.
It has been mandated since 1967 I found out after looking now getting curious. My sons '65 had one circuit, you blow the line anywhere in the circuit = ZERO brakes.

1699571471373.jpeg
 
CarterKraft said:
I'm not talking about dual master cylinders but dual circuit. The clutch/slave combo will be single circuit brakes in this remote example.
It has been mandated since 1967 I found out after looking now getting curious. My sons '65 had one circuit, you blow the line anywhere in the circuit = ZERO brakes.

1699571471373.jpeg
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Back in the day Volvo had dual triangular brake systems, dual piston calipers in the front with one piston on each circuit along with one of the rest calipers (ie: the LF and RF upper pistons and the RR caliper on circuit A while the LF and RF lower pistons and the LR caliper are on circuit B).

Bleeding Triangular (Dual-Circuit) Brakes

>Don't be intimidated by multiple sets of brake lines and dual piston calipers! Volvo's classic overlapping triangle brake systems deserve a closer look.
www.ipdusa.com www.ipdusa.com
44995.jpg



Aaron Z
 
Can someone that has a Gen2 measure the pushrod depth?

IE between the flange and the tip of the pushrod.

Thanks !
 

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Not as good as I would like but that’s a master or bleeding problem. The booster works fucking phenomenal, highly recommend.

I know, I can’t paint. Was 35° in the shop in my defense.

1700959857234.jpeg
 
Used 2022 F350 MC. 1-5/16.
The MC seems shot or I’ve got a giant air pocket I can’t get rid of. Bled it plenty.

It’ll stop but uses all the travel to do so. Def not locking tires up.
Pedal is rock hard with it turned off.
Once the ibooster is on, it’ll send it to the floor no problem.

I tried 3 different pedal ratios 6,4 and 3 and the exact same issue happens.

Funny thing is, the hydroboost that was in the car before would slam your head in the windshield. MC was the same bore.
But the steering feels better now so I’m committed to make this ibooster work.

4 Chevy 3/4 single piston calipers.
 
You got an old FSB/bronco master in your parts collection? Those are 1-5/16 and you could ghetto it on temporarily as a troubleshooting measure.
 
Bebop said:
Not as good as I would like but that’s a master or bleeding problem. The booster works fucking phenomenal, highly recommend.

I know, I can’t paint. Was 35° in the shop in my defense.

1700959857234.jpeg
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Maybe you have it called out in a previous post but what pedal assembly did you use? Curious about overall length from pedal pivot to extreme other end?
 
arse_sidewards said:
You got an old FSB/bronco master in your parts collection? Those are 1-5/16 and you could ghetto it on temporarily as a troubleshooting measure.
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What’s the point. The master I used is also 1-5/16.
I would need to redo an adapter plate and a pushrod. Nope.

white-rhino said:
Maybe you have it called out in a previous post but what pedal assembly did you use? Curious about overall length from pedal pivot to extreme other end?
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All custom so I could test shit. I tested 5 different pedal ratios and pedal lengths. At this point I’m not sharing the results of the tests since the master is bad I think.
 
Bebop said:
What’s the point. The master I used is also 1-5/16.
I would need to redo an adapter plate and a pushrod. Nope.
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Because you can do a bad job in 30min with shit you have on hand and potentially rule out issues with the current master.
 
94toytruck said:
So do a shitty job with some questionable shit just so you can redo that shit?
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We're talking about a plate with five holes and a pushrod. Most of the time is in making it "nice" anyway. Seems like a valid use of 30min before dropping $$ on a new master.
 
I wonder if the stock iBooster at .78 vs SD1.35 cubic inch displacement is too much load for the booster, that’s close to double. The booster might have a force limiter that only puts out what the motor or driver can sustain. Too big of a MC lowers pressure and stalls flow? But the pedal was mentioned traveling full distance so that doesn’t match up?
 
arse_sidewards said:
We're talking about a plate with five holes and a pushrod. Most of the time is in making it "nice" anyway. Seems like a valid use of 30min before dropping $$ on a new master.
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And if the old master you just put on is bad? Now you're undoing what you just did and still getting a new master still. What's the point?
 
94toytruck said:
And if the old master you just put on is bad? Now you're undoing what you just did and still getting a new master still. What's the point?
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Fuck off with the what ifs. Bebop isn't the kind of person to have parts on the shelf that aren't of known condition.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Fuck off with the what ifs. Bebop isn't the kind of person to have parts on the shelf that aren't of known condition.
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Bold of you to assume. You haven’t seen my collection of shit. I just added some more questionable parts to it today actually.

That MC was a $50 eBay special. I’m gonna buy a brand new Ford part and test it before changing anything. And it’s not easy to change the pushrod length on an ibooster. You’re talking out of your ass about swapping another MC quickly.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
I wonder if the stock iBooster at .78 vs SD1.35 cubic inch displacement is too much load for the booster, that’s close to double. The booster might have a force limiter that only puts out what the motor or driver can sustain. Too big of a MC lowers pressure and stalls flow? But the pedal was mentioned traveling full distance so that doesn’t match up?
Click to expand...
Def not the case.
 
Bebop said:
Bold of you to assume. You haven’t seen my collection of shit. I just added some more questionable parts to it today actually.

That MC was a $50 eBay special. I’m gonna buy a brand new Ford part and test it before changing anything. And it’s not easy to change the pushrod length on an ibooster. You’re talking out of your ass about swapping another MC quickly.
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I can attest to the first paragraph :lmao:
 
You’re probably the best person for that. No doubt.
I appreciate all your help, hope you know that
 
Interesting the bigger master was requiring full stroke. We had same calipers on a stock vacuum booster and the disc/disc Corvette master cylinder (I think 1.125 bore) and it stopped well with good pedal feel and normal travel.

Your setup seems like it should fine from a pedal ratio standpoint.
 
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