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iBooster Electric Brake Booster

Bebop said:

BMRS Home

Brown & Miller Racing Solutions - Professional Race Hose & Fittings. We offer PTFE Hose, Smooth Bore PTFE Hose, AC Crimped Fittings, Custom Fittings, AR Reuseable Fittings, Smooth Bore Crimped Fittings, Smooth Bore SBR Reuseable Fittings, Rigid Tube, Tube Bending, Quick Disconnects, Adaptors...
bmrs.net

Gotta call them.
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Gotcha. Their catalog shows up to M12 banjo bolts, which is what I'd been seeing in earlier searches aside from aluminum bosch 044 fuel pump banjo stuff in M14.
 
They custom make fittings all day. Just call them :)

Make sure to get steel fittings, you don't want AL ones on brakes at 1000+PSI
 
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r47 said:
Gotcha. Their catalog shows up to M12 banjo bolts, which is what I'd been seeing in earlier searches aside from aluminum bosch 044 fuel pump banjo stuff in M14.
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There's M14x1.5 Banjos on Summit too.
 
JC_Chandler, over at CJ8.com made a bracket to mount these to a Jeep firewall:



Adding to the CAD library.

I am making one today for my CJ8:
 
I scanned the iBooster (not including the master cylinder) and added it to the CAD library under the original iBooster link I posted. The reference model I originally made isn't far off, but both are now available.

1698012133793.png


1698012159971.png

I also bought an E-350 master thinking it'd be the same as the F-350 listed above, and I'm guessing they're not remotely similar since the master is fucking huge and the bolt pattern doesn't fit the iBooster. It could certainly be made to work without much issue, but it's absolutely massive.

1698012354234.png
 
I love the fuckhuge reservoirs on all the Superduty era trucks and vans. Makes getting home with a leaking system much less of an asshole puckering experience. :laughing:
 
snivilous said:
I scanned the iBooster (not including the master cylinder) and added it to the CAD library under the original iBooster link I posted. The reference model I originally made isn't far off, but both are now available.

1698012133793.png


1698012159971.png

I also bought an E-350 master thinking it'd be the same as the F-350 listed above, and I'm guessing they're not remotely similar since the master is fucking huge and the bolt pattern doesn't fit the iBooster. It could certainly be made to work without much issue, but it's absolutely massive.

1698012354234.png
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Looks like a 99-03 SD master.
 
BKOR now carrying 1.25/1.39" MC's...

bustedknuckleoffroad.com

REMOTE MOUNT HYDROBOOST BRAKE KIT 1.39" bore master cylinder

REMOTE MOUNT HYDROBOOST KIT! Many people want to run hydroboost but cannot fit the large components. This kit allows you to remote mount the hydroboost kit anywhere in the vehicle! Put it under the passenger seat, under the dash, beside the frame rail. The possibilities are endless. This kit has...
bustedknuckleoffroad.com bustedknuckleoffroad.com
 
r47 said:
BKOR now carrying 1.25/1.39" MC's...

bustedknuckleoffroad.com

REMOTE MOUNT HYDROBOOST BRAKE KIT 1.39" bore master cylinder

REMOTE MOUNT HYDROBOOST KIT! Many people want to run hydroboost but cannot fit the large components. This kit allows you to remote mount the hydroboost kit anywhere in the vehicle! Put it under the passenger seat, under the dash, beside the frame rail. The possibilities are endless. This kit has...
bustedknuckleoffroad.com bustedknuckleoffroad.com
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Tahoe and HD truck
 
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snivilous said:
And for what it's worth, I did a desert race last week in my buggy (iBooster/factory stock master, 99-04 super duty axles, stock brakes) and I had no complaints about the braking performance. No issues locking up the 40s and doing lots of sprints between 75mph and hairpin corners for 60+ miles. I'll definitely tweak on it a bit and get the feel I want, but as far as raw capability it certainly accomplished everything I wanted. Take it with a grain of salt. I couldn't be happier though since it's a completely off the shelf OEM unit, can only get better from here.
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snivilous said:
Holy shit! That is a huge find! I'm gonna order one to try.
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What would you be hoping to gain from the bigger mc and res based off your experience to date? Just curious.
 
fl0w3n said:
What would you be hoping to gain from the bigger mc and res based off your experience to date? Just curious.
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Try out a bit stiffer pedal, I'm also suspicious the 7/8" master doesn't quite flow enough. It'll lock up the brakes, but I feel like it's near the end of stroke and having a bit more margin left would be nice. Though all of that might just be due to the booster and the 5:1 pedal ratio, maybe dropping the ratio would fix everything, but if I could find a plug and play larger master my thought is I get all the same feeling changes and the perk of more flow (if that actually helps) with only undoing four fasteners.
 
snivilous said:
Try out a bit stiffer pedal, I'm also suspicious the 7/8" master doesn't quite flow enough. It'll lock up the brakes, but I feel like it's near the end of stroke and having a bit more margin left would be nice. Though all of that might just be due to the booster and the 5:1 pedal ratio, maybe dropping the ratio would fix everything, but if I could find a plug and play larger master my thought is I get all the same feeling changes and the perk of more flow (if that actually helps) with only undoing four fasteners.
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Keep the thread updated with your findings :beer:
 
snivilous said:
Try out a bit stiffer pedal, I'm also suspicious the 7/8" master doesn't quite flow enough. It'll lock up the brakes, but I feel like it's near the end of stroke and having a bit more margin left would be nice. Though all of that might just be due to the booster and the 5:1 pedal ratio, maybe dropping the ratio would fix everything, but if I could find a plug and play larger master my thought is I get all the same feeling changes and the perk of more flow (if that actually helps) with only undoing four fasteners.
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So everyone can better analyze your setup, please detail your brake variables.
Stock 05 front and rear calipers?
MC model?
Line size?
Stainless braid length total?
Hardline length total?
Differential bias valve?
Brake pads?
Actual tire size?
Pedal travel?
Chicken legs or crossfiter goon, bro have I told you about crossfit yet, it will change your life, how much can you clean, what's your box jump vert, how many bar yeets, how many pull ups with the funky dolphin kick, leggings or no leggings, if so what color?
 
Regardless of booster style the master still needs to match the caliper volume/area. Using a dinky little MC from a econo car ain't going to cut it.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Chicken legs or crossfiter goon, bro have I told you about crossfit yet, it will change your life, how much can you clean, what's your box jump vert, how many bar yeets, how many pull ups with the funky dolphin kick, leggings or no leggings, if so what color?
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HA!

You gotta count those dolphin kicks or else most that say 30 really mean 7... but the leggings do help. Especially when you skip glute day
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Chicken legs or crossfiter goon, bro have I told you about crossfit yet, it will change your life, how much can you clean, what's your box jump vert, how many bar yeets, how many pull ups with the funky dolphin kick, leggings or no leggings, if so what color?
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:lmao:
 
Winchested said:
Regardless of booster style the master still needs to match the caliper volume/area. Using a dinky little MC from a econo car ain't going to cut it.
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that's not how brakes work
provided that the small master has enough stroke to move the desired fluid amount
 
I've been researching iBoosters for a retrofit into my Mustang. Came across this thread read thru all of it and I'm really surprised that there was no mention of doing a remote booster mounting using a clutch master/slave setup. Yes, it adds complexity but packaging and minimal changes to your current setup could be a deal maker for a lot of people.

The iBooster can be clocked to any angle as long as you can make an adaptor plate for the MC. For my install I plan to clock it about 30* so the MC studs are level and use a common $40 Chrysler MC that a lot of drag racers use and is available if different bore sizes.
 
BlueGoat said:
I've been researching iBoosters for a retrofit into my Mustang. Came across this thread read thru all of it and I'm really surprised that there was no mention of doing a remote booster mounting using a clutch master/slave setup. Yes, it adds complexity but packaging and minimal changes to your current setup could be a deal maker for a lot of people.

The iBooster can be clocked to any angle as long as you can make an adaptor plate for the MC. For my install I plan to clock it about 30* so the MC studs are level and use a common $40 Chrysler MC that a lot of drag racers use and is available if different bore sizes.
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It might have been, it's common practice in our sport with hydroboost. I run a reverse swing pedal assembly and have been considering it. I'm not sure I can fit the IBooster under my dash on the DS.
 
BlueGoat said:
I've been researching iBoosters for a retrofit into my Mustang. Came across this thread read thru all of it and I'm really surprised that there was no mention of doing a remote booster mounting using a clutch master/slave setup. Yes, it adds complexity but packaging and minimal changes to your current setup could be a deal maker for a lot of people.

The iBooster can be clocked to any angle as long as you can make an adaptor plate for the MC. For my install I plan to clock it about 30* so the MC studs are level and use a common $40 Chrysler MC that a lot of drag racers use and is available if different bore sizes.
Click to expand...

I'm not familiar, how does that (or the hydroboost you mentioned 94toytruck ) work? Pedal to clutch master, that then runs a line to a clutch slave that is connected to the booster pushrod? And then normal output from the booster to the brakes, so the whole booster/brake master setup is remote mounted and has brake lines coming off and a clutch hydraulic line going to it?
 
snivilous said:
I'm not familiar, how does that (or the hydroboost you mentioned 94toytruck ) work? Pedal to clutch master, that then runs a line to a clutch slave that is connected to the booster pushrod? And then normal output from the booster to the brakes, so the whole booster/brake master setup is remote mounted and has brake lines coming off and a clutch hydraulic line going to it?
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Exactly! My friend has a hydroboost unit mounted in the belly of his rig this way. Heck it still has a dual master Wilwood pedal in it to, they just machined a solid block to replace the balance bar bearing.
 
fawk, this may be the way I go on my "hot rod" LS swap pickup build. seems way simpler than running the OEM hydroboost setup and way cleaner engine bay to boot
 
Am I being a Nancy for being scared about having a single point of failure via the clutch/slave master vs a dual circuit normal brake system?
 
CarterKraft said:
Am I being a Nancy for being scared about having a single point of failure via the clutch/slave master vs a dual circuit normal brake system?
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Something I’ve thought about but I have no plans to use an iBooster currently. Run two masters/slaves in tandem :flipoff2:
 
Chkn said:
Something I’ve thought about but I have no plans to use an iBooster currently. Run two masters/slaves in tandem :flipoff2:
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Yeah not saying I'm scared, just saying it might be something to consider...
In all my years of brake failures it was one end or the other, the one time my clutch line rubbed through it was NO clutch...
 
CarterKraft said:
Yeah not saying I'm scared, just saying it might be something to consider...
In all my years of brake failures it was one end or the other, the one time my clutch line rubbed through it was NO clutch...
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I would say if you were to remote mount it in a daily driver/street driven application it would be best to use OEM name brand vs store brand. So the potential for catastrophic failure is slightly reduced.
 
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