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iBooster Electric Brake Booster

snivilous said:
I'll let you know this weekend and then just send me your address.

I havent seen any of the shit you're talking about, the three I've picked up all just have the mini reservoir off the master with a hose to a bigger conventional reservoir that's remote mounted. And the mini reservoir isn't really needed so not entirely sure of its purpose besides redundant capacity.
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I can get a pic tomorrow. It's just for the booster than I put in my Subaru. Had that mini res on top of the MC with the hose running up to another res with a cap. Sure would like something cheap and basic to stick on this. I'll be stopping by parts houses tomorrow to see if they can pull out a master for any of the vehicle listed that accept that Chevy res I posted. I'd like to measure one to see if the Chevy res is a viable swap.
 
I thought these electric boosters were supposed to be smaller and more compact than and normal booster or even a hydro boost?

I'm surprised how big these things are. They're huge. Takes up just as much room as a vacuum booster and seems just as long as a hydro boost.

What am I missing?
 
gt1guy said:
I thought these electric boosters were supposed to be smaller and more compact than and normal booster or even a hydro boost?

I'm surprised how big these things are. They're huge. Takes up just as much room as a vacuum booster and seems just as long as a hydro boost.

What am I missing?
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Kinda sorta. They bulge out of the firewall further, but can be smaller in diameter. Putting one in my '01 Subaru Outback left me more room behind my driver's side strut tower. The MC's are nice and short, which makes up for the boost chamber length.
 
Stopped by Oh Really's today to go over MC reservoirs. They put in a request to get the Chevy Captiva res and I think a 2019 Honda CRV res. Don't know yet if they got any response or if either res will fit. I'm going to start measuring and cataloging brake reservoirs to add to the resources page.
 
gt1guy said:
I thought these electric boosters were supposed to be smaller and more compact than and normal booster or even a hydro boost?

I'm surprised how big these things are. They're huge. Takes up just as much room as a vacuum booster and seems just as long as a hydro boost.

What am I missing?
Click to expand...
Yea I wouldn't call them small. Good chance a different type booster will fit better (or worse), just different packaging for different types. I like the simplicity of it, it's extremely clean since brake lines come off and you run two wires to it and that's it. You also have full braking capability when the engine is off.

It's not a magical end all be all to brake boosters. Just different pros and cons and another option to add to your toolbox.
 
snivilous said:
Yea I wouldn't call them small. Good chance a different type booster will fit better (or worse), just different packaging for different types. I like the simplicity of it, it's extremely clean since brake lines come off and you run two wires to it and that's it. You also have full braking capability when the engine is off.

It's not a magical end all be all to brake boosters. Just different pros and cons and another option to add to your toolbox.
Click to expand...

Full brakes with the engine off may be underrated in the offroad world, even with an auto, an engine dieing on a slope is very common and having full brakes is a plus.
 
My gen 1 accord booster came in today, leaning towards a disc/disc 1 1/8 bore corvette MC to go with 05+ SD60/Sterling calipers. Can't justify an extra $300 for a wilwood at this point, but I will have to deal with the recessed output on the booster. Likely means some lathe time in my future..
 
Made an adapter for the lower reservoir. Started out with a Parker brass bulkhead in 1/8" NPT and whittled it down to profile the OEM barb.
Used a 2" Banjo cam lock to 2" NPT fitting and whittled it down, added a bottom cap and two ports for a reservoir.
Have not figured out how to vent the cap yet. Will tap the top cap 1/8" or 1/4" NPT and add a fitting and a breather but not sure if it needs a splash guard of some sort for overflow. Maybe one of the little diff bellows might fit inside or outside. Need to find out if the bellows are brake fluid compatible.

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snivilous, get a chance to check your leftovers?

I was at the salvage yard again yesterday and happened to find my OE res that I had lost. Still need a replacement because I tire the barb.
 
Anybody try a bigger booster? Like maybe a 17-20 1 1/2" bore super duty booster that has the angled flange and might bolt right up?

Have one inbound, eta tmw..
 
JNHEscher said:
snivilous, get a chance to check your leftovers?

I was at the salvage yard again yesterday and happened to find my OE res that I had lost. Still need a replacement because I tire the barb.
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Totally forgot! Here are all the spare parts I have laying around. The big reservoirs all appear to be identical. If you want one send me your address.

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And for what it's worth, I did a desert race last week in my buggy (iBooster/factory stock master, 99-04 super duty axles, stock brakes) and I had no complaints about the braking performance. No issues locking up the 40s and doing lots of sprints between 75mph and hairpin corners for 60+ miles. I'll definitely tweak on it a bit and get the feel I want, but as far as raw capability it certainly accomplished everything I wanted. Take it with a grain of salt. I couldn't be happier though since it's a completely off the shelf OEM unit, can only get better from here.
 
snivilous said:
Totally forgot! Here are all the spare parts I have laying around. The big reservoirs all appear to be identical. If you want one send me your address.
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No worries at all. I took a little time to research some of the variants of MC's and resi's on this. The Accord versions you have are much more ideal.

The upper with bracket and lower mini are what I'm after, if you don't mind. Both circled in red. I'll PM you shortly.

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r47 said:
So um, the 2017-2020 generation SD master bolts right up to my gen 2 booster... Can't function check but I think you have an answer if you want a big bore mc
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Holy shit! That is a huge find! I'm gonna order one to try.
 
r47 said:
So um, the 2017-2020 generation SD master bolts right up to my gen 2 booster... Can't function check but I think you have an answer if you want a big bore mc
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snivilous said:
Holy shit! That is a huge find! I'm gonna order one to try.
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I may look for one of those. Has the single res that I wanted, too.

Chevy Captiva res does not fit the Honda MC. Honda Odyssey and one other res that I acquired have the correct port dims and spacing, but the res is too large to clear the booster control. Polypropylene reacts to heat a lot like candle wax, so it's a little difficult to modify.
 
JNHEscher said:
I may look for one of those. Has the single res that I wanted, too.

Chevy Captiva res does not fit the Honda MC. Honda Odyssey and one other res that I acquired have the correct port dims and spacing, but the res is too large to clear the booster control. Polypropylene reacts to heat a lot like candle wax, so it's a little difficult to modify.
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I just ordered one for $50 off ebay, looks identical to the one posted above.
 
Yeah I gave $52 off ebay for mine. Was hoping it was some contemporary standard with the angled flange and spacing and think I may be right. Beats the heck out of dropping a bunch of money on an undersized wilwood and adapters for the flange and piston...

Don't know what the ibooster/mc setup looks like on f150s but might be an all in one option too. Probably smaller bore tho.
 
r47 said:
Yeah I gave $52 off ebay for mine. Was hoping it was some contemporary standard with the angled flange and spacing and think I may be right. Beats the heck out of dropping a bunch of money on an undersized wilwood and adapters for the flange and piston...

Don't know what the ibooster/mc setup looks like on f150s but might be an all in one option too. Probably smaller bore tho.
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Yea no shit, I was thinking the same thing that it's very cool to be able to spend $50 and swap master sizes to dial in how you want your braking. I wouldn't be surprised if anything running Bosch parts for their brake system is a direct plug and play, and probably a lot of modern vehicles in general.
 
r47 said:
So um, the 2017-2020 generation SD master bolts right up to my gen 2 booster... Can't function check but I think you have an answer if you want a big bore mc
Click to expand...
The MC and reservoir look bigger than the iBooster.
I would be hesitant of having that large of a bore with manual brakes. To get pressure one would really have to stomp on the pedal. I wonder if the pedal assembly for that MC is larger and or higher ratio to still work without power?
I guess it comes down to MC and caliper piston size or volume and pedal ratio and travel. Tuning all of it to get the right combination.
 
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r47 said:
So um, the 2017-2020 generation SD master bolts right up to my gen 2 booster... Can't function check but I think you have an answer if you want a big bore mc
Click to expand...
I love you man :emb4:




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HYDRODYNAMIC said:
The MC and reservoir look bigger than the iBooster.
I would be hesitant of having that large of a bore with manual brakes. To get pressure one would really have to stomp on the pedal. I wonder if the pedal assembly for that MC is larger and or higher ratio to still work without power?
I guess it comes down to MC and caliper piston size or volume and pedal ratio and travel. Tuning all of it to get the right combination.
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My tow pig is a gasser '18 250 and I don't remember anything super unusual in the pedal box. If the caliper:mc ratio is consistent, does the bore diameter matter?

I was thinking SD calipers, SD mc and I'm avoiding manual brakes with an undersized mc and SD caliper volume needing residual valves to make up for running out of mc stroke.
 
r47 said:
My tow pig is a gasser '18 250 and I don't remember anything super unusual in the pedal box. If the caliper:mc ratio is consistent, does the bore diameter matter?

I was thinking SD calipers, SD mc and I'm avoiding manual brakes with an undersized mc and SD caliper volume needing residual valves to make up for running out of mc stroke.
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Larger vehicles should require more input force to stop than lighter vehicles when not powered.
Longer pedal travel or more force creates more power.
MC has to have enough travel and volume to keep up with caliper volumes.
MC travel is set to a max of 1.25” travel with an iBooster.
A 1” bore and 1.5” bore can have the same pressure and braking force and pedal travel by changing the pedal ratio.
 
I should add that I saw the Honda MC bore listed as 15/16". My '01 Outback MC bore is 1-1/16".

I'll find out if I like the pedal feel. More pressure sounds good to me, though.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Larger vehicles should require more input force to stop than lighter vehicles when not powered.
Longer pedal travel or more force creates more power.
MC has to have enough travel and volume to keep up with caliper volumes.
MC travel is set to a max of 1.25” travel with an iBooster.
A 1” bore and 1.5” bore can have the same pressure and braking force and pedal travel by changing the pedal ratio.
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Sure. And the easy way to work within a travel constraint with larger volume calipers is to increase mc bore proportionally, no?

Just looked at my 250 that uses the same MC that I just bought. Rough tape measurement shows the brake pedal arm at 16" from the fulcrum and the booster rod is about 4" down from the fulcrum. So...4:1?

In the end, no I wouldn't go out of my way to put a 1 1/2 bore MC over small displacement manual calipers, there are plenty of off the shelf options for that. I'm not sure there are a bunch of available big bore MC's without getting into medium or larger duty product lines. If it doesn't make sense to use the OEM MC on the OEM calipers the OEM designed as a package and sells as as a rolling vehicle, I don't get it. I don't think it makes sense to swap over to wilwood calipers and a matching MC for a few grand unless you're chasing pounds over dollars and need to make it work.

eta - I got back on the ibooster bandwagon after a few months away from a thread on a camaro forum. They promote a turnkey setup with a spacer and adapter plate to adapt the angled flange vs old school flat MC flange, and all to run a 1 1/8 wilwood MC which I figured is a functional clone of the 68ish vette disc/disc 1 1/8 MC. BUT, in the age of SD05 swaps and contemporary angled flange hardware, figured there was more to the story and looked under the hood of my truck... So yeah, use the appropriate MC for your application but if everything else is SD, why add a mismatch?

eta2 - Looked at Rockauto and MC bore on the vacuum booster 17-20 SD is 1.313". So actually 1 5/16. Basically same bore as the 05+ MC and at least the front right caliper was actually 1 mm smaller on the piston diam for the later (18 is what I checked) vs 05+. Is that better? Sorry I called it a 1 1/2
 
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17-20 you mean 2017 to 2020, right ?

Use a banjo for the adapter.
 

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