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Is he running a complete separate electrical system? In both cases, you don’t lose brakes, so not really a need for a separate system. But if your asking me which systems fails more electrical or power steering? My answer is electrical every time.
Not that I'm aware of, when it turns off it's a pretty instantaneous lack of brake boosting. In my case at least, I'd have to lose both the battery and alternator for it to stop working.
Yes. If the screw can be back driven by the spring then you can also back drive it with pedal pressure. Mechanically it's basically like a power steering gearbox in reverse.
Yeah that's the only thing I'm worried about. For a street rig it should be great though.
It's gonna be worse.
Probably not a ton worse. You're just pushing through the spring and the gear friction.
That's not how master sizing for assisted brakes work.
He didn't say he was changing the master or pedal ratio. He made it sound like he would be shoehorning it into an existing system.
Nope, complete replacement. I have dual Willwood masters right now and it's packaged pretty tight. My orbital is just in front of the existing masters.
I wonder if it kicks in the brakes if you "trick" the pedal feedback to tell it that the pedal has been pushed in?
No
It can. He covers it in the video. IDK if the pedal sensor is a switch or if it's variable resistance based or PWM on force. IDK if it's more complex than a dumb switch though in order to give proper "pedal feel" or if the "pedal feel" is wholly the spring. If it's just a dumb switch or resistance based that's easy. If it's a PWM that feeds the controller then that's probably harder to make work independently.
Watch the video. The geometry is similar to a power steering gear. There's a really steep pitch ball screw so it back drives just fine.
Would probably need a solenoid (like a reverse lockout solenoid for surge brakes, but run the other way) to lock the brakes in "applied" position if the pin gets pulled, but otherwise it could work.
Watch the video. The geometry is similar to a power steering gear. There's a really steep pitch ball screw so it back drives just fine.
That's the environment's problem.
I would think it has to be pretty decently weatherproof. If anything, pack the plugs with some dielectric grease, and if one so chooses, a small rain deflection shield.
Could also pot it in epoxy
That was my thought, obviously it's meant for cars in all weather and the plugs have all the normal seals and stuff. Be interesting how it handles mud, but being in Utah I try and avoid that. As far as normal water I wouldn't be worried, maybe not hit it full blast with the power washer but that goes for electronics in general. How it handles mud getting everywhere is a different question though and hopefully I'm not one to find out.I would think it has to be pretty decently weatherproof. If anything, pack the plugs with some dielectric grease, and if one so chooses, a small rain deflection shield.
They're looking cheap enough, that even if I had to swap another in, in a couple years...not much more at all than a regular dual diaphram booster.
But, I wheel out on the Western half, where mud is something normally we avoid, and aren't really fond of dealing with to being with
Stuck in Iowa so dealing with muddy trails is sad part of wheeling. I'm going to keep my eyes open for a few of these units for the new buggy. Hell works case it doesn't work out I can fall back to vacuum or hydroI would think it has to be pretty decently weatherproof. If anything, pack the plugs with some dielectric grease, and if one so chooses, a small rain deflection shield.
They're looking cheap enough, that even if I had to swap another in, in a couple years...not much more at all than a regular dual diaphram booster.
But, I wheel out on the Western half, where mud is something normally we avoid, and aren't really fond of dealing with to being with
On my 78 Hilux it was extremely simple install. I drilled four holes in the firewall since the bolt pattern was different than stock, and then just welded a little bracket on the stock brake pedal for the eyelet, then just wires and run brake lines.
