JohnnyJ
Low Range Drifter
I don't have wire colors, but it seems like you should have pin 20 going to ignition. I'm guessing purple as it's just 5A. I'd guess the 12G is the 40amp fused on pin 1.
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iBooster Electric Brake Booster
- Thread starter snivilous
- Start date
snivilous
Well-known member
If you connect Pin 20 and Pin 1 together to your kill switch then the kill switch still kills power to everything, and then the brakes turn on with only the kill switch being on.I don't have wire colors, but it seems like you should have pin 20 going to ignition. I'm guessing purple as it's just 5A. I'd guess the 12G is the 40amp fused on pin 1.
That's how mine is setup, and presumably how Hydrodynamics is from his description. The ignition wire is to stop it drawing power and killing the battery, which on a buggy is kind of pointless since you'll just hit the kill switch and disconnect the power to everything when you turn it off unlike a street vehicle.
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
Keep in mind the diagram is from one side. Looking at the plug harness everything is reversed.I don't have wire colors, but it seems like you should have pin 20 going to ignition. I'm guessing purple as it's just 5A. I'd guess the 12G is the 40amp fused on pin 1.
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
That’s exactly how and why I ran it.
JohnnyJ
Low Range Drifter
Looking at the connector this morning, from the back side in a clean connector you can see the pin numbers are molded in. My phone camera and photo lab wasn't good enough to pick it up, so I marked it in the case someone finds this and is trying to figure out the pinout. The small 4-pin has bigger more readable text.
Hope that I can get these stamped crimps to play nice and build my connector today and get the iBooster tested out.
JohnnyJ
Low Range Drifter
If I posted this then it worked.
For crimping the the connectors I used a Tool Aid ratcheting crimper die 18922.
For the 4-pin. Make sure the blue lock is slid to the right when looking at the end of the terminal with the lock on top. Otherwise you won't be able to slide pins in until they click. If you test fit the connector, you likely slid this over as it blocks installing it.
For the big connector, similar with a purple lock on the front side of pins 9 & 26. The Tool Aid 18922 wasn't so great on 10 gauge wires. If I were to do it again, I'd try the Tool Aid 18910 or other manual crimper even though it'd take two steps with that style. The ratcheting version worked 2 of 3 times (luckily had 1 spare with Tulay's kit. The others are fine, but even though the wire looked the right length as I loaded the crimper, both seemed to pull back a little. Not bad enough to want to redo and should work fine, but not as clean as the 18ga wires.
Would I buy the pigtail for 2x the cost or do another of these? I'd likely buy the pigtail. This was kind of a PITA, but doable.
I do have it functioning. On my gauge I was getting 500psi off, and right now I'm getting 1000psi. Not sure if there's some air and if I can bleed it out. I sure hope this enough. I was hoping for 1300+ psi.
Quick question: I assumed since it was a passenger car, it was setup diagonal lines with a distribution block; so I just put front brakes to front port. Is that how everybody else is doing it? Won't be a big change if I should flop. Off to go bleed.
I thought this video was useful for crimping this style of connector:
For crimping the the connectors I used a Tool Aid ratcheting crimper die 18922.
For the 4-pin. Make sure the blue lock is slid to the right when looking at the end of the terminal with the lock on top. Otherwise you won't be able to slide pins in until they click. If you test fit the connector, you likely slid this over as it blocks installing it.
For the big connector, similar with a purple lock on the front side of pins 9 & 26. The Tool Aid 18922 wasn't so great on 10 gauge wires. If I were to do it again, I'd try the Tool Aid 18910 or other manual crimper even though it'd take two steps with that style. The ratcheting version worked 2 of 3 times (luckily had 1 spare with Tulay's kit. The others are fine, but even though the wire looked the right length as I loaded the crimper, both seemed to pull back a little. Not bad enough to want to redo and should work fine, but not as clean as the 18ga wires.
Would I buy the pigtail for 2x the cost or do another of these? I'd likely buy the pigtail. This was kind of a PITA, but doable.
I do have it functioning. On my gauge I was getting 500psi off, and right now I'm getting 1000psi. Not sure if there's some air and if I can bleed it out. I sure hope this enough. I was hoping for 1300+ psi.
Quick question: I assumed since it was a passenger car, it was setup diagonal lines with a distribution block; so I just put front brakes to front port. Is that how everybody else is doing it? Won't be a big change if I should flop. Off to go bleed.
I thought this video was useful for crimping this style of connector:
Bebop
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Doesn't matter in 4x4 without a center diff.
JohnnyJ
Low Range Drifter
Sure, but if it makes a difference on street driving, I'd swap them.
With some solo brake bleeding I'm sitting at 1150-1200 psi. Good enough for now. Will need to clean up some wiring and maybe take it for a drive to see how it feels.
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
I assume voltage will affect max pressure? Maybe only flow rate.
JohnnyJ
Low Range Drifter
Seemed to move about 50psi with engine running. Will try bleeding later.
JohnnyJ
Low Range Drifter
Ugh. Two wires on the pressure sensor have slipped the crimp. Backup plan #1 is that I found a trailer brake harness on the shelf that uses a similar enough pin, but the connector housing is different. I can heat shrink the pins and slip them in and maybe rig up something to make sure they stay on. Plan #2 is I ordered a Bosch map sensor harness pigtail that looks very similar from the jungle website that should be here tomorrow. If that plugs in, I'll splice it into what I have.
What a PITA. I wish I could have found a factory pigtail when I was getting my unit.
This fits.
"Compatible with Polaris Ranger 700 800 900 RZR 1000 T-Map (Temperature-Manifold Air Pressure) Sensor Pigtail Harness Repair Wire New"
Last edited:
JohnnyJ
Low Range Drifter
snivilous- how are you plumbed?
I took it for a test drive tonight around the block in 2wd. With no prop valve in the back, the rear locks up first. In some ways not shock since I'm around 60/40 weight bias. Calipers are about the same volume and pad area, so trying to figure out without extra work if I switched ports if it'd make any difference. I can also step up to a slightly larger caliper up front and see if that makes a difference.
With the rear prop'd down, I was able to get the fronts to lock first. I've never locked my brakes on the buggy before, so definitely getting plenty of pressure.
snivilous
Well-known member
The furthest port from the booster going to the front axle. I thought I had found that orientation being factory somewhere, but it's been so long I don't know the specifics. It's how my Hilux is plumbed, so the buggy and FJ I just copied that. I don't know if there's any internal bias, never measured or tried a proportioning valve but also never felt the need to adjust the bias.
JohnnyJ
Low Range Drifter
That helps. For this weekend I'll mark a spot on my brake shutoff valve for 2wd driving, and let'r rip for trail use. I'm happy with the swap so far. Looking forward to seeing how it does over the weekend.
rockota
white collar hillbilly
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IIRC, "standard" is that the rear most port on the MC (closest to the booster) is for the front brakes... Likely depends on the master, but it's been fairly consistent in my experience.
snivilous
Well-known member
I have a super duty master sitting here and that appears how this is setup since it has different size ports and the larger fluid port (presumably the front brakes) is the closest to the booster. So you're probably right.
I don't know if it matters (as much/if at all) if the output ports are the same size. If I install this super duty master I'll definitely be flipping the lines though.
rockota
white collar hillbilly
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outputs may be the same, but is the piston size inside the master the same for both ports?
JohnnyJ
Low Range Drifter
This has generally been what I found for black/white or front/rear brake layouts on dual circuit master cylinders. This is the common layout on jeeps/trucks, at least the junk I work with. Same for people finding early corvette masters for disc/disc conversion.
For modern passenger cars, many use diagonal splits. This has become more common with ABS systems doing electronic proportioning, so the two circuits from the master cylinder go to the ABS unit, and it splits them to each wheel. I would be shocked if the Accords we nab these from weren't diagonal splits, which means both circuits should be matched. But since I can't find a diagram online, I figured it was worth comparing to others that have been there before me.
Blurb from a subaru site that gives a brief explanation.
arse_sidewards
Red Skull Member
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Common on all Japanese vehicles since the 90s.
snivilous
Well-known member
I unintentionally confirmed, on the super duty master at least, the piston is a constant diameter for the front and rear.
And in other news I scanned the super duty master after confirming it's plug and play with the ibooster. I'll get the CAD uploaded in the near future.
Though due to the size the output ports have to be oriented 180deg from the big plug, which my ibooster isn't setup that way so I have to rotate the ibooster (assuming I have room for that) so that I can install the larger master to test it.
And it is an absolute chunker by comparison. Very cool that (if you have the room) it's two nuts and swap fittings and you can completely reconfigure the brakes for pretty cheap.
I will also update the OP once I get the CAD uploaded.
JohnnyJ
Low Range Drifter
Sweet. Be interesting to see how it reacts to that master.
Bebop
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It's not plug and play.
It bolts together, sure, but tightening it will keep the MC piston pushed in about 1/4"
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
[memphis]
Web wheeler
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I’ve been playing with the brake hold feature on our 2024 MDX this week which has an Ibooster setup. With a manual transmission I could see this being a huge help trying to hold yourself on a hill and not do the three pedal dance.
Assuming this runs through the canbus system on a “normal” car; would it be possible to use a deadman style switch that when active it supplies 12v to keep the brakes engaged and when the button is released the pressure drops?
I’m thinking a simple button on the shifter…
Assuming this runs through the canbus system on a “normal” car; would it be possible to use a deadman style switch that when active it supplies 12v to keep the brakes engaged and when the button is released the pressure drops?
I’m thinking a simple button on the shifter…
arse_sidewards
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Every Grumman step van I've ever looked under the hood of has a right angle adapter like that in it. Tons of people doing desert go-fast shit have used it or copied it to keep the brakes from wanting to occupy the same space as the coilover or shock tower.
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
Has anyone found an easy brake switch solution? Maybe amperage based switch?
[memphis]
Web wheeler
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For lights, use a wilwood prop valve… built in switch? Assuming normally open and when it sees pressure the switch closes and the lights turn on? Can’t get more simple than that…
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Did you get this sorted?
Is this the correct series of terminal?
I have some of these in a 6" pigtail made by a OEM, I think I have the bigger terminals in the same pigtail.
JohnnyJ
Low Range Drifter
I used the connector from above and it’s working fine.