HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
I assume everyone is running DOT 3 or 4 in the iBooster?
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iBooster Electric Brake Booster
- Thread starter snivilous
- Start date
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
DOT 3 here. Guess I need a different hose material though. Brake fluid seems to be seeping through the hose wall.
JohnnyJ
Low Range Drifter
DOT 4 because I had a few bottles on the shelf.
TTMotorsports
Red Skull Member
OLD thread but I keep seeing advertising of this electric remote mount power brake setup. It is expensive but a friend has it on his luxury prerunner and the brakes are the best brakes I've ever experienced.
Anyone running this or know of a similar setup for cheaper?
www.jegs.com
Anyone running this or know of a similar setup for cheaper?
JEGS 631250: Electric Brake Booster and Master Cylinder Combo [Disc/Disc] - JEGS
Get the Best Performance with JEGS Electric Brake Booster and Master Cylinder Combo [Disc/Disc] 631250 parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!
www.jegs.com
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Holy fark that pricey. Then again, I see a lot of EV stuff where people are using $700+ in vacuum pumps and such for brake boosters and other parts to run hydraulic steering.OLD thread but I keep seeing advertising of this electric remote mount power brake setup. It is expensive but a friend has it on his luxury prerunner and the brakes are the best brakes I've ever experienced.
Anyone running this or know of a similar setup for cheaper?
JEGS 631250: Electric Brake Booster and Master Cylinder Combo [Disc/Disc] - JEGS
Get the Best Performance with JEGS Electric Brake Booster and Master Cylinder Combo [Disc/Disc] 631250 parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Toyota conversion?
Brake Booster Pump Assembly with Accumulator #47070-48060 | Autoparts.toyota.com
Enhance your vehicle's braking system with our Brake Booster Pump Assembly with Accumulator. Shop Genuine Toyota parts now!
autoparts.toyota.com
TTMotorsports
Red Skull Member
Yeah I know electric power steering setups are fairly common. Run an oem one of those powering a hyrdroboost brake setup. This one is just so compact with just a dual master cylinder for power brakes.
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
Locking up 40”s with no effort.
Holds back 4.88 x 1.95 x 2.72 x 2.48 at idle no problem.
Holds back 4.88 x 1.95 x 2.72 x 2.48 at idle no problem.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Haven't even wired up the iBooster in my Subaru yet. Got me wondering what kind of skid marks I'll be laying down.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Is this the same thing with a different looking accumulator and a on/off pressure switch/relay.
2010-2015 HYBRID TOYOTA PRIUS ANTI-LOCK ABS BRAKE PUMP ACTUATOR MODULE BOOSTER | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 2010-2015 HYBRID TOYOTA PRIUS ANTI-LOCK ABS BRAKE PUMP ACTUATOR MODULE BOOSTER at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
Bebop
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 26, 2020
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- 1458
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CarterKraft How do you wire that ? It's cool
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
No idea, I just imagined that Jegs pump is not a aftermarket part, it had to be a OEM part so I just google image searched booster pumps until I found a similar one.
I need to study the JEGS kit some more and see if the answer is in there.
edit: it says it makes 1800-1900 psi brake pressure with a 1 3/16" MC.
Last edited:
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Googling more it also looks like the OEM might use that for a 4 wheel hydraulic parking brake.
That would be bad ass if we figured that out. I are not Toyota saavvy.
That would be bad ass if we figured that out. I are not Toyota saavvy.
14-19 Lexus GX460 ABS Anti-Lock Brake Pump & Actuator (47210-60611) 56K Miles | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 14-19 Lexus GX460 ABS Anti-Lock Brake Pump & Actuator (47210-60611) 56K Miles at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
JohnnyJ
Low Range Drifter
If true, that's some impressive #'s on a MC that large.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Speedway sells the same system with more info. You can see they are using a switch mounted in the line adapter to convert.
(Don't let me fuck this thread up, I don't want to start a new one yet cause I am only web researching this, no real need for it right now)
(Don't let me fuck this thread up, I don't want to start a new one yet cause I am only web researching this, no real need for it right now)
TTMotorsports
Red Skull Member
I haven't read much into these but do they use hydraulic fluid or what. Also how do you fill and bleed these electric pumps?
ParadisePWoffrd
Recovering Project Junkie
That looks promising. The master seems like the challenge to find. Looks like the Prius master has the abs module built into it, so that is likely a no-go.
Im guessing Jegs/Speedway are getting the master custom machined with the extra ports/piston?
Im guessing Jegs/Speedway are getting the master custom machined with the extra ports/piston?
ParadisePWoffrd
Recovering Project Junkie
The low pressure side of the pump is fed by a reservoir. Here is the complete toyota setup: 10-15 TOYOTA PRIUS V OEM HYBRID BRAKE PUMP SYSTEM ANTI LOCK BOOSTER 47270-47030 | eBay.
It looks to be fed with brake fluid, as the same resi feeds both the master, abs pump, and booster. Not sure how it is bled, but assume the pump will self bleed like a PS pump.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
The pressure switch looks like a conventional switch likely with some hysteresis given the accumulator, operates like a air compressor switch.
The master is the hard part I bet.
The master is the hard part I bet.
Bebop
Well-known member
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That would be insane indeed.
elbekko
Captain Slow
That's interesting. My '99 Range Rover has a similar setup, with a pump + accumulator that feeds a combined master and ABS valve block. A lot of the pump components are EOL and hard to get nowadays, would be sweet if there's a modern system available that could plug in.
FWIW, that system uses a pressure switch with separate on and off pins to trigger the pump.
FWIW, that system uses a pressure switch with separate on and off pins to trigger the pump.
The only down side is loss of fluid. I like the Separate Parking/service brakes.
Ghetto Fab.
No idea what I'm doing
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
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- 662
I don't think the newer vehicles use the abs system as a parking brake like what we usually think of. Its more of a safety feature. If one of the doors is open and the car is on, it applies the brakes to keep the car from rolling so that whoever is stepping in or out doesn't get run over. Shut the door and it releases the brakes. I'm sure there are other situations they can apply the brakes temporarily with the abs for safety reasons.
I'm guessing the low pressure port is the feed to the pump and the high pressure is the output to the MC cylinder?
I'm guessing the low pressure port is the feed to the pump and the high pressure is the output to the MC cylinder?
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
The lp port just returns to the mc, the high pressure port is fed back to the mc to "apply" force to the other F/R pistons. So it's effectively pushing the brake pedal for you.
In this setup the mc has 3 pressure ports, one in, 2 out.
baldduck1974
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2023
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Sort of like my 2014 chevy 2500 has hill hold but with old school hydroboost an master cylinder, proly done through the ABS module
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
I've been scouring my ass off and finding this master cylinder has not yeilded anything yet.
There are a literal TON of theses setups for sale by all the usual suspects, but they are pretty generic, no brand name etc.
Scott Drake sells one already configured for a mustang.
There are a literal TON of theses setups for sale by all the usual suspects, but they are pretty generic, no brand name etc.
Scott Drake sells one already configured for a mustang.
Ovrez
Drove Away
Has anyone called to see if you can get just the master cylinder?
Maybe just say you buggered the port threads when trying to thread the fitting into the port.
Too late for me to call today but I will try to call tomorrow or Monday.
Maybe just say you buggered the port threads when trying to thread the fitting into the port.
Too late for me to call today but I will try to call tomorrow or Monday.
snivilous
Well-known member
Gumbybronco
19+ superduty master mates to the iBooster. Excuse some of the jank, still test fitting things.
3/8" spacer (3x 1/8" spacers in my case) sets the master back to the correct spot
The studs on the ibooster are too short though, and seemingly go through the entire thing so can't be pressed out and replaced easily. I put a threaded spacer onto the studs, but that's then too big for the master so I drilled the ears on the master to 5/8". And since I'm just janking it together and the spacer sat proud, I threw some oversized nuts on and then a bolt threads into the spacer to clamp the master down.
The superduty master sits ~13deg off of level with the studs, unlike the car masters which are parallel with the four mounting studs. Because of this I made two mounting patterns in my (new) bracket.
This thing is an absolute chonker, the car master sits past the booster ~3.5" where as this is close to 7" so a lot longer, though a bit shorter than my Wildwood master that is ~8" long.
Also the superduty master can only really be mounted in one position otherwise the one brake outlet ends up running into the fat plug (unless you could do a more low profile setup than banjo bolts). Which on that note the outlets are on the opposite side of the master compared to the car master.
This setup is so huge I think it'd be hard pressed to justify it. I've debated making my own master that's the length of the car one but with a larger bore to keep it compact but be able to adjust the feel. But first is seeing how this feels, and since I got the big boy to fit I should be able to reconfigure it with any of the other master options now.
19+ superduty master mates to the iBooster. Excuse some of the jank, still test fitting things.
3/8" spacer (3x 1/8" spacers in my case) sets the master back to the correct spot
The studs on the ibooster are too short though, and seemingly go through the entire thing so can't be pressed out and replaced easily. I put a threaded spacer onto the studs, but that's then too big for the master so I drilled the ears on the master to 5/8". And since I'm just janking it together and the spacer sat proud, I threw some oversized nuts on and then a bolt threads into the spacer to clamp the master down.
The superduty master sits ~13deg off of level with the studs, unlike the car masters which are parallel with the four mounting studs. Because of this I made two mounting patterns in my (new) bracket.
This thing is an absolute chonker, the car master sits past the booster ~3.5" where as this is close to 7" so a lot longer, though a bit shorter than my Wildwood master that is ~8" long.
Also the superduty master can only really be mounted in one position otherwise the one brake outlet ends up running into the fat plug (unless you could do a more low profile setup than banjo bolts). Which on that note the outlets are on the opposite side of the master compared to the car master.
This setup is so huge I think it'd be hard pressed to justify it. I've debated making my own master that's the length of the car one but with a larger bore to keep it compact but be able to adjust the feel. But first is seeing how this feels, and since I got the big boy to fit I should be able to reconfigure it with any of the other master options now.
Gumbybronco
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2022
- Member Number
- 4666
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- 236
Thanks for following up with the detaIls and process.Gumbybronco
19+ superduty master mates to the iBooster. Excuse some of the jank, still test fitting things.
3/8" spacer (3x 1/8" spacers in my case) sets the master back to the correct spot
The studs on the ibooster are too short though, and seemingly go through the entire thing so can't be pressed out and replaced easily. I put a threaded spacer onto the studs, but that's then too big for the master so I drilled the ears on the master to 5/8". And since I'm just janking it together and the spacer sat proud, I threw some oversized nuts on and then a bolt threads into the spacer to clamp the master down.
The superduty master sits ~13deg off of level with the studs, unlike the car masters which are parallel with the four mounting studs. Because of this I made two mounting patterns in my (new) bracket.
This thing is an absolute chonker, the car master sits past the booster ~3.5" where as this is close to 7" so a lot longer, though a bit shorter than my Wildwood master that is ~8" long.
Also the superduty master can only really be mounted in one position otherwise the one brake outlet ends up running into the fat plug (unless you could do a more low profile setup than banjo bolts). Which on that note the outlets are on the opposite side of the master compared to the car master.
This setup is so huge I think it'd be hard pressed to justify it. I've debated making my own master that's the length of the car one but with a larger bore to keep it compact but be able to adjust the feel. But first is seeing how this feels, and since I got the big boy to fit I should be able to reconfigure it with any of the other master options now.
I look forward to hearing how it feels.
snivilous
Well-known member
I was also thinking about it last night, it'd be easy to make the 3/8" spacer for the master also clock the master over. Then you wouldn't have to drill the ears out or use the threaded spacers. Have some studs mounted to the 3/8" spacer for the master, that would also free up a bunch of orientations.
Might fuck with that later, but first to get a brake pedal made.