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I want something unique.

M92PV4U said:
What's the weird dent in the bed?
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It goes from the inside out...looks like maybe someone shoved a pipe through the bed.

The inside is flat though, and they sprayed bedliner in it so they must have patched the inside.
 
I tried to mess around a little with my e-brake setup 8.8 swap into my XJ, and wound up just getting a pre made cable from East Coast Gear. They might have one for a 8.8 to S10
 
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I would so you are getting right amount of fluid to the rear brakes. Also not sure if they still do it but some drum brake setups would hold tiny amount of pressure in line so when you hit brake again the shoes weren't fully retracted, problem when switching to disk brakes is it can cause them to hang up a bit and drag.
 
Ouch!

Placed an order with Ruff Stuff for a lot of hardware.

Decided to try leaf springs. Just going to keep it simple. I cant find any Waggy 44044 springs, so will try out a set of S10 bastard packs as a start.

Leaf springs seems to work well with Fred and ole Clampy :laughing:

Got the old IFS diff out today, tomorrow I get to cut off all the old IFS brackets and clean/plate the frame.
 
TRINDU said:
Pansy. I snapped a D44 shaft clean in two with an open diff on 31s.

Still think a D30/8.8 is a good compromise for a S10.
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I broke 8.8 shafts and an ARB. The D30 survived fine somehow.
 
blthomas said:
Wish you were closer. Got a pair in great condition here on the right coast. Been trying to sell for 2 years. :homer:
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Whats the shipping like? I bought a pair of 78 or so F150 radius arms, shipped once.
 
I can ask around. I work for Saia, but dont think I get a discount. Upside, 2 leafs strapped to a pallet can squeeze in alot of dead spaces in a trailer.

Also got a fastenal in my town, but thought I read they stopped shipping.

I'll check around
 
Man, I miss pre-Covid buying.

Not a put down on Ruff Stuff, as it seems it is the way of the world now....

Their disclaimer about giving them seven days to ship...is legit.:eek:

Shipped today, so hopefully Ill see it next week sometime.:grinpimp:
 
Finally got around to this project again today.

Its the grinding off welds stage, and I am less than enthused with that, so been putting it off.

Got all the Dana 30 brackets removed/ground. Got the pass side frame done mosty, need to spend a little more time there and do the driver side. I toasted what grinding wheels I had left, so need to pick up a few.

I rolled the front axle under and at the height it is at right now on the jackstands Im happy with it.

I need to visit the junkyard and grab some springs.
 
I don’t remember, did you settle on converting a linked Dana 30 to leafs?
 
Nice, I'm interested how it turns out. I've been contemplating moving my D30 and 8.8 to an S10 build eventually
 
Mrs' is away till wed, weather is beautiful so, worked on the ole S10 some more.

Ended up approx 5" over stock height. Its an inch higher than I was hoping, but I am happy with that for now.

Im going for a happy medium between a low COG built and a tree-house. Last trail ride out, the Mrs old JL 2 door on 35s was still hanging up on the local trails, so a low COG out here may be just too frustrating.

Ended up shackle front, SUA.

Lots of grinding/finish welding/gusseting left to do and
I need to lift the rear to match. It is still sitting on stock springs/SUA. I plan to stay SUA for now.

Only thing I am debating is to push the shackle mounts up in the front another inch? Shackle angle at ride height seems a touch too much, but may be fine. I was hoping to reuse the factory tow hooks, and moving them forward would block the rear holes.

Spring pad to pad is at 30" width. I notched the driver side spring pad to sit ontop of the diff housing where the cast meets the axle tube by a little bit. (1/2" approx) and sit the rest onto the tube as it would regularly.
I didnt want to run into issues with tires rubbing the springs at full lock (still may) as that is a huge annoyance to me so figured I would push them in as far as I can. Its only a half inch per side over stock, but every bit helps.

I used Ruff Stuffs generic flat mounts which seemed to work well, but didnt fully go wide enough to set the rear leaf pads on. I added some gussets to make up the difference of the shackle hangers overlap. I will likely add another tube of some sort when final welding happens.

I still need to gusset the front hangers, add a crossmember there that will help to strengthen my winch mount behind the grill as well.

It will be Bluetooth 4wd until I reroute exhaust, rebuild the trans crossmember and and rebuild the 231 tcase with hopefully a TJ output shaft (still researching that) to get a regular type driveshaft attachment.

Steering should line up with the factory box with a different style pitman arm to a likely high steer setup.

Goal is still 33-35s. It may clear 33s, Ill cut to clear 35s.

20221226_142617.jpg
 
Trashman said:
Mrs' is away till wed, weather is beautiful so, worked on the ole S10 some more.

Ended up approx 5" over stock height. Its an inch higher than I was hoping, but I am happy with that for now.

Im going for a happy medium between a low COG built and a tree-house. Last trail ride out, the Mrs old JL 2 door on 35s was still hanging up on the local trails, so a low COG out here may be just too frustrating.

Ended up shackle front, SUA.

Lots of grinding/finish welding/gusseting left to do and
I need to lift the rear to match. It is still sitting on stock springs/SUA. I plan to stay SUA for now.

Only thing I am debating is to push the shackle mounts up in the front another inch? Shackle angle at ride height seems a touch too much, but may be fine. I was hoping to reuse the factory tow hooks, and moving them forward would block the rear holes.

Spring pad to pad is at 30" width. I notched the driver side spring pad to sit ontop of the diff housing where the cast meets the axle tube by a little bit. (1/2" approx) and sit the rest onto the tube as it would regularly.
I didnt want to run into issues with tires rubbing the springs at full lock (still may) as that is a huge annoyance to me so figured I would push them in as far as I can. Its only a half inch per side over stock, but every bit helps.

I used Ruff Stuffs generic flat mounts which seemed to work well, but didnt fully go wide enough to set the rear leaf pads on. I added some gussets to make up the difference of the shackle hangers overlap. I will likely add another tube of some sort when final welding happens.

I still need to gusset the front hangers, add a crossmember there that will help to strengthen my winch mount behind the grill as well.

It will be Bluetooth 4wd until I reroute exhaust, rebuild the trans crossmember and and rebuild the 231 tcase with hopefully a TJ output shaft (still researching that) to get a regular type driveshaft attachment.

Steering should line up with the factory box with a different style pitman arm to a likely high steer setup.

Goal is still 33-35s. It may clear 33s, Ill cut to clear 35s.

20221226_142617.jpg
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Fuggit, just leave the Carolina squat:flipoff2:
 
Screenshot_20221227_065952_Facebook.jpg

The bracket ontop of this pile is what I used for each side rear perch mounts. Ruff Stuff makes them. They work well.

The one shown is upside down, and face down if your unfamiliar.
 
IowaOffRoad said:
Fuggit, just leave the Carolina squat:flipoff2:
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The problem with the rear setup is that I havent found the right answer yet.

Lift springs...maybe but I am happy with the spring rate of the stockers so lifted ones would probably be too stiff.

Spring over. Sure, but then Ill likely need a midde link setup for axle wrap.

I want this to be stupid simple.

Current idea I am playing with is to relocate the factory rear mounts. I need to lay under there with some cardboard and see if I can make the mounts look right and actually work safely.

Drop the front hanger point down three inches (New mounts, say 3/8 plate fishplated along the old ones) relocate the rear hanger from the middle of the frame rail as it sits from the factory to the bottom of the frame rail then box that section in? That should get me approx 3". Try and make up the other 2" difference or close too) with a longer shackle.

Will see next time I have time to look at it.

20221011_171805.jpg

I dont have any other photos of the rear setup (currently stock)

I still need to trim or redo the mounting plates or more likely buy some more 2.5" spread upbolts and run them like I did in the front facing up. They are a bit pricey through Napa though. It was $178 for the front 4 :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
 
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Trashman said:
The problem with the rear setup is that I havent found the right answer yet.

Lift springs...maybe but I am happy with the spring rate of the stockers so lifted ones would probably be too stiff.

Spring over. Sure, but then Ill likely need a midde link setup for axle wrap.

I want this to be stupid simple.

Current idea I am playing with is to relocate the factory rear mounts. I need to lay under there with some cardboard and see if I can make the mounts look right and actually work safely.

Drop the front hanger point down three inches (New mounts, say 3/8 plate fishplated along the old ones) relocate the rear hanger from the middle of the frame rail as it sits from the factory to the bottom of the frame rail then box that section in? That should get me approx 3". Try and make up the other 2" difference or close too) with a longer shackle.

Will see next time I have time to look at it.

20221011_171805.jpg

I dont have any other photos of the rear setup (currently stock)

I still need to trim or redo the mounting plates or more likely buy some more 2.5" spread upbolts and run them like I did in the front facing up. They are a bit pricey through Napa though. It was $178 for the front 4 :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
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Do you have a large truck or trailer repair place local? I use Inland Truck Parts or Jim Hawk Truck Trailers, I can usually have custom u-bolts made for 20-30 a piece with high nuts and hard washers. Neither are particularly close to you, but I’m sure AZ has similar places.
 
IowaOffRoad said:
Do you have a large truck or trailer repair place local? I use Inland Truck Parts or Jim Hawk Truck Trailers, I can usually have custom u-bolts made for 20-30 a piece with high nuts and hard washers. Neither are particularly close to you, but I’m sure AZ has similar places.
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In Phx, which is about 1.5hrs (more depending if its on the south east side)

So, driving there negates cost savings I feel.
 
Status update. I drove it around this weekend.

I ended up just doing a spring over on the back springs. Given how much chaos I have in my life currently, easy peazy done.

Brakes work, but they are not great. It will stop, but I dont dare tow/haul with it. I need to find a master cyl or prop valve.

Sits level. 10.5" clearence in the rear. 10.25" front.
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Needs extended brake lines front/rear. The steering box moved forward appox 2", new trans crossmember, front driveshaft and a hybrid Jeep/Chevy 231 t case......ugghh.
 
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