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Homemade Attachments for Forklifts Skidsteers and Other Equipment
- Thread starter Muckin_Slusher
- Start date
PAToyota
Red Skull Member
I like the fence. I've thought about doing something like that for the same reasons, but never got around to it because I didn't want it all the time. The receivers seem obvious, but it didn't occur to me...
Muckin_Slusher
****
The receivers are standard 2x2 like on a hitch, but I used 2x1.5 tubing to prevent the thing from jamming (it'd be a fight to get four 2x2s to line up for installation/removal).I like the fence. I've thought about doing something like that for the same reasons, but never got around to it because I didn't want it all the time. The receivers seem obvious, but it didn't occur to me...
Didn't need pins and the thing only comes out when I'm trying to move the bucket by grabbing the fence with forks. I've never removed it (it's never been in the way).
bgaidan
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Anyone know for sure what the pin to pin dimensions on the quick attach plates are supposed to be? I'm mocking mine up off the adapter plate I bought, but the holes are slotted so there's some wiggle room there. Not sure if that plate is standard or if I could run in to some more "official" attachments that have tighter tolerances.
Muckin_Slusher
****
From post 84, looks like a range of widths (see pic in millimeters).
If you math it out and put the pins centered in the slots, you get 800 mm (31.5 inches).
I'll be at the shop today and can measure center to center on mine if you'd like. Walking the kids to school in half hour so I'll post my measurements in an hour.
bgaidan
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From post 84, looks like a range of widths (see pic in millimeters).
If you math it out and put the pins centered in the slots, you get 800 mm (31.5 inches).
I'll be at the shop today and can measure center to center on mine if you'd like. Walking the kids to school in half hour so I'll post my measurements in an hour.
Yeah, I saw that last night, but it seems like I found a dozen different dimensions for the implement side plate and still not sure what is 100% right.
I guess if you have a measurement on an actual skid steer (not an aftermarket tractor adapter), that's probably going to be the most "official" thing you can get.
Grendel
Iron Sharpens Iron
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I think you have paralysis by analysis.
Looking at my Cat 236D or JD 3046R, they don't match any of the measurements posted here. Obviously one Skid Steer and one tractor with FEL
I'd get to welding, try to keep the gaps as small as you can. You're dealing with Chinese no tolerances crap and then stuff that was built with an "Idear" of where things should be.
Try to get the attach points as close as you can to the knuckles, keep the actual attachment gaps under 1/4" and let the boogers fly.
It's not rocket science.
Muckin_Slusher
****
bgaidan
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I'm more worried about the width between the locking pins to make sure I don't end up with an attachment down the road that has tighter tolerances than the weld-on plates I have now. The ones I bough have a good 4" opening for the pins so plenty of tolerance starting out.
I'm at about 30.5 right now and it works on the two plates i have. That's the widest I could go easily without doing extra fab and probably pushing the plate a couple more inches away from the pins.
May need to revisit my plan before I get too much deeper in to it.
665.0coupe
Red Skull Member
As long as you keep your center to center greater than 27.5+the diameter of your pin and less than 35.5-the diameter of your pin you will fit any attachment that is made to the ISO standard. Assuming your pins are around 1" in diameter, it sounds like you will be fine at 30.5 center to center.
![[486]](https://data.irate4x4.com/avatars/m/0/94.jpg?1700178133){kind=avatar}
[486]
smells things
do it faggot
so what if you gotta clearance the quickattach plate on one or two implements in the future, it ain't like it'll make them sloppy as they all center from the outside edges of the top rail anyways
bgaidan
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That's kind of the conclusion I came to last night. I bought a second, lighter plate from Titan for my bucket and it showed up yesterday. It's the kind that has the big cut out in the middle. I figure it'll save me a few pounds and give me more places to weld. Either way, it measures the same as the cheaper ebay one I bought first.
Got it all mocked up and have a good plan for my cross braces now. Somehow managed to fuck my back up (again) yesterday and couldn't do shit last night. Hopefully it doesn't spaz out again today and I'll actually get some shit done.
Blow me.
Sounds like what I have will work. I didn't want to have to cut or grind on rented/borrowed attachments in the future.
Rat_Power_78
Member
Only time you could run into an issue is some name-brand stuff such as Bobcat. Vast majority of attachments are slotted. Bobcat in their typical fashion does things to make it harder to use their stuff on other brands. Both out Bobcat-branded buckets have holes for the pins not slots. I think even our Cat buckets are slotted. Either way, a torch can fix it.
Muckin_Slusher
****
This is all I have for that plate, it's PDF, not sure how to turn it into a cut file, but feel free to use and abuse it any way you like.This one. Obviously, we can draw it, but if you've already done the work, I'd happily pay you or credit you to it.
If it's ok, you can post it resources:
Resources
irate4x4.com
I made mine from 3/8 plate. It'll bend if you crank the bolts too much.
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Muckin_Slusher
****
Done. That was easy.
I had no idea what "resources" was. Neat idea, I'll add anything useful I come up with in the future.
Thanks!
dave_dj1
Red Skull Member
The pin to pin measurement isn't as critical as keeping the latch boxes overall width less than 45.5"
Plus keep your mount widths the same as your loader width.
I make (incorporate) my own quick attach mounts to the back side of the grapples.
bgaidan
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Got it all tacked together tonight. Top bar is 2" x 1/4" wall, bottom is 1.25" x 1/4" wall. Got it where it hits the stops on the loader arms before bottoming out the cylinder. I can already see the bottom bar flexing a bit when it's on the stops and I give it a little more push or pull. I'll probably run another couple of 1.25" pieces between the upper and lower bars right under the pin mount plates. Hopefully that'll be enough to keep it from trying to tear itself apart.
Not sure if I'll be able to fit a receiver tube anywhere. I was hoping to put it down low between the two plates under the center, but it'll hit the cylinder when folded forward like in the first pic. It might fit up at the top tube, but I think it'll be too high. I may just have to sacrifice a hitch and make a shorty that's dedicated to the tractor.
Not sure if I'll be able to fit a receiver tube anywhere. I was hoping to put it down low between the two plates under the center, but it'll hit the cylinder when folded forward like in the first pic. It might fit up at the top tube, but I think it'll be too high. I may just have to sacrifice a hitch and make a shorty that's dedicated to the tractor.
aczlan
Good Morning!
Is your 2nd picture fully retracted? I would put a short receiver just under your top crossbar.
Aaron Z
Aaron Z
bgaidan
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That's the backup Plan. I really wanted it lower so I could scoop up under a tongue that's on the ground, but shitty center cylinder loader says no can do.
aczlan
Good Morning!
Use a longer ball mount so it can reach out a little more, or move it down and over so it's to one side of your center cylinder mount.
Aaron Z
Muckin_Slusher
****
Doesn't need to be centered. I would add both hitches I potato-CAD drew below. First one is a permanent ball that never has to be removed because it's behind the plane of the Q/A. Modify the Q/A handle if necessary.
Second one is a 2 inch receiver and can be used for heavier trailer tongues because it'll be closed to CG of tractor. Could use a spring loaded pin, or a welded collar on the side of the receiver to retain the hitch pin (so you don't have to go completely through as it would get in the way of that center cylinder). Only need to catch one side of the hitch with the pin, it's not like you're travelling at freeway speeds...
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ThePanzerFuhrer
The Rock Breaker God
I would have zipped off the handle mounts and ran the tube all the way to the other tube. Then reattach the handle to the tubeGot it all tacked together tonight. Top bar is 2" x 1/4" wall, bottom is 1.25" x 1/4" wall. Got it where it hits the stops on the loader arms before bottoming out the cylinder. I can already see the bottom bar flexing a bit when it's on the stops and I give it a little more push or pull. I'll probably run another couple of 1.25" pieces between the upper and lower bars right under the pin mount plates. Hopefully that'll be enough to keep it from trying to tear itself apart.
Not sure if I'll be able to fit a receiver tube anywhere. I was hoping to put it down low between the two plates under the center, but it'll hit the cylinder when folded forward like in the first pic. It might fit up at the top tube, but I think it'll be too high. I may just have to sacrifice a hitch and make a shorty that's dedicated to the tractor.
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bgaidan
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Damnit, that makes too much sense.
[486]
smells things
just plate in the empty spaces
bgaidan
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I honestly don't think that's going to add much strength (plating or running the bar full width). The angle of the dangle on the cylinder is putting more force in to that bottom bar, which I made smaller, of course.
If I had thought about chopping the pivot pin, I probably would have done that, but I don't think it's worth the effort now.
I actually had to shim the arm up with a washer to clear the 2" tube. The arm was pretty much exactly 2" above the plate and just barely rubbed the tube. There's enough slop in the linkage that the ~1/8" or so misalignment shouldn't matter. If it seems like it wants to bind when I start using it, I can remake the block that connects the linkage to the arm....or just shove another spacer washer under the bolt....it already had one from the factory.
Terrible facebook video from years ago.
Dad was trying to figure out how to drive piling by himself when we were building the new hanger at the cabin. I thought this up and built it after work the same night. Mini holds a section of pipe and then he could hop in the Hitachi 200 with the big hammer and drive it. One and done attachment unfortunately, I think I ran it over with one of the D8s a few summers ago.
bgaidan
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Final form. Fully (over)welded. I didn't weld the receiver tube yet as I wanted to check clearances. I'll trim and weld it in tomorrow once I find a hitch to mock up with it. Have a feeling I'm going to have to drill the hitch pin holes through those side plates would should be fun to line up. After that it just needs a little spatter cleanup and I'll spray bomb it tomorrow.
I swear those welds look way better in person.
I swear those welds look way better in person.
arse_sidewards
Contrary to everything
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Can I see a close up pic of the welds so I can feel better about mine?