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Homemade Attachments for Forklifts Skidsteers and Other Equipment

Done. That was easy.

I had no idea what "resources" was. Neat idea, I'll add anything useful I come up with in the future.
Thanks!
You're welcome. As you can see, I am trying to grow it out a bit.
 
Got the snowplow mounted to the quick attach plate. Just need to finish welding and paint it. Sticks out kind of far and I am wondering if it's going to want to push the front of the tractor sideways when the blade is angled. I'll run it and see what happens.
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It's not so much a homemade attachment as it is attachment PM. The cat bucket was getting tired and thin after years of hard daily use by my ex FIL before I got it and my neanderthal operating skills after. I was going to reskin it but once I got in there it was worse than I thought, and a new bucket was surprisingly cheap. I gave it a 3/8 ar450 makeover that should outlast the rest of the machine.

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Got the snowplow mounted to the quick attach plate. Just need to finish welding and paint it. Sticks out kind of far and I am wondering if it's going to want to push the front of the tractor sideways when the blade is angled. I'll run it and see what happens.
I've got the same plow, and am 75% done with the installation. The chain is good for "float" but you can also add some little posts to the Q/A plate such that if you curl down you can apply down pressure on the blade for scraping.

Are you gonna plumb it into the hydraulics? Not sure if your machine has auxilliary hydraulics or not. If it doesn't, you could plumb the cylinders together, and add a ball valve inbetween. Open valve and hand turn the blade to desired angle, close valve and lock hydraulics.

I'm planning on putting a crossover relief valve in the loop for when I hit curbs. The tractor's 3000+ PSI relief would likely damage the blade before relieving.
 
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Want a set of forks like previously posted but for the back 3 point hitch on my antique Ford 2N.

Anyone see where those are sold near northern Calif or close by within 1K miles ?

LOOKING for a specific mfg that might have been in Oregon or Washington from memory and the forks were moveable not permanent mount in one spot.
 
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I've got the same plow, and am 75% done with the installation. The chain is good for "float" but you can also add some little posts to the Q/A plate such that if you curl down you can apply down pressure on the blade for scraping.

Are you gonna plumb it into the hydraulics? Not sure if your machine has auxilliary hydraulics or not. If it doesn't, you could plumb the cylinders together, and add a ball valve inbetween. Open valve and hand turn the blade to desired angle, close valve and lock hydraulics.

I'm planning on putting a crossover relief valve in the loop for when I hit curbs. The tractor's 3000+ PSI relief would likely damage the blade before relieving.
I was first planning on hard mounting it to the plate, but after watching some youtube it seemed like guys liked the pivot mounting with the chain. Would be easy to add some posts in the future though.

I'm planning on the summit hydraulics third function kit and plumbing the angle into that. Kind of expensive just to angle the plow, but I'd like to get a grapple in the future too. The ball valve is a great idea. I might have to try that if we get snow before I can get the third function kit installed.
 
Got the plate glued on to the bucket yesterday and it's working perfectly. Still need to give it some more booger welds around the outside to finish it off.
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Also hit up my favorite scrap yard yesterday and hit the jackpot. Full forklift carriage just laying there for me to grab. I left the back half behind as it was just dead weight and this thing alone weighs enough. Guessing it weighs around 300lbs and they charge .45/lb so this cost me about $135 with the forks and all. Not too bad given a skid steer fork frame without forks seems to run $4-500 around here.

It had power spread on the forks but the rods on the cylinders are completely fucked. I'm planning on adding a multiplier and aux. hydros to my loader so it might be cool have them at some point. I'll leave the hardware there in case I get ambitious in the future and kind find new cylinders.

For now I'll just trim off the back mount gib things and then weld the extra plate I bought to it.

They actually had a couple other carriages that would have worked buy this was the same size as my Komatsu 6k lift so I'll be able to share forks between the two. It came with 36" and I already have 42" on the Komatsu. These are way over rated for my tractor that can probably barely lift 1k, but they'll be perfect for when I pick up a bigger tractor, skidsteer or the telehandler I really want.

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And just because I love bragging about my scrap yard scores.....1.25" x 1/4" wall DOM also .45/lb. :smokin:
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Nice score on the forks!

I got lucky and picked up a 42 inch set for $200. Eventually I want to repair the worn sections with weld, and am interested in suggestions on what rod to use (or wire) to repair the mast and/or repair the forks. Not sure if the forks are special steel. Also not sure if the forks wear, or if it's just the mast that wears...

Yesterday I picked up a set of ten foot fork extensions, and am planning on customizing them.

I'd like to make a nice low profile lifting point at the fork tips that would allow both to share the load. I'm thinking of welding in the pieces drawn in green, cut from 1/2 inch plate. This would allow a 7/8 shackle to be installed through both fork tips, tieing them together to allow for a secure lifting point.

Also considering welding in a couple pieces of 1 inch black pipe vertical through the extensions near the tips. This would allow me to drop in jackleg steel, or 1 inch solid bar (like a hardy hole in an anvil).

Anything else I can consider to add capabilities to fork extensions?

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Got it fully welded, painted and mounted on the arms for the final time.

Still have a little bit of interference with the bottom the the QA plate on the bucket hitting the stops at full forward tilt. I either need to clearence the plate (and all other attachments I use) or see if I can relocate the stops on the loader arm a bit to hit a different part of the frame. Not a big deal, just need to pay attention when dumping as I'm sure eventually it'll try to pop the pins out and drop the bucket if I hit it too hard.

Gave the bucket a Ritchie Brothers tune up too. :laughing:

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Not my proudest welds, but I'm probably asking too much of my little 175....and most of them were done with straight argon as I ran out of C25 and didn't have time to get a new bottle.


Haven't messed with the fork frame yet. I picked up some cuttoff discs for the 7" grinder so I can zip the big welded mounts for the gib things off. Just need to cut all the excess crap off and can probably drop a good 80 lbs from it.

I need to measure and see if the geometry will work out, but I'm hoping I can just weld a set of these directly to the bottom of the frame and a piece of angle at the top instead of using the solid adapter plate I already have. Trying to keep the weight down as much as possible and that'd save me another 50lbs or so.

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Got it fully welded, painted and mounted on the arms for the final time.
Looks like you were able to integrate the 2 inch receiver centered.

If you have a hitch in there that sticks out too far back and you curled back you'll hit the cylinder?
 
If you have a hitch in there that sticks out too far back and you curled back you'll hit the cylinder?
The tube actually just hits the cylinder about 1/2" before I hit the stops. I didn't even check it after I mounted....though I had planned on needing to trim a little off once it was mounted. Just happened to notice when I was using it last night. Need to take maybe 3/4" off to be safe. No big deal.

I think I'm going to get one of the cheap tipple balls from HF and just drill the holes or trim it so it can't stick out the back when it's pinned in. It'll just be dedicated to this machine. I'll probably weld on another piece of the receiver tube vertically on the cross bar to store the hitch when not in use.

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Here is something I did a couple years ago. I wanted a snowblower on my little Deere, but don't like driving backwards.
23hp Honda, all self contained.
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You have a build thread on this? I have a baby 3 cylinder diesel I would love to use on a project like this. Have been seeing a bunch of rear mount PTO setups going for cheap. The think I haven't figured out is the clutch/coupler from engine to blower and trying to figure out how to get the speed I need out of the connection. I was thinking a mag clutch like a lawnmower uses for the deck but not sure it has the nuts for the job. Is that a 22hp predator? Going to need a snow throwing video for sure. That's badass!
 
You have a build thread on this? I have a baby 3 cylinder diesel I would love to use on a project like this. Have been seeing a bunch of rear mount PTO setups going for cheap. The think I haven't figured out is the clutch/coupler from engine to blower and trying to figure out how to get the speed I need out of the connection. I was thinking a mag clutch like a lawnmower uses for the deck but not sure it has the nuts for the job. Is that a 22hp predator? Going to need a snow throwing video for sure. That's badass!
I have never ran a snow blower
but it looks like ti would be satisfying to launch that shit right the fuck outta there :laughing:
 
I didn't do a build thread, and don't take many pictures. It is a 23HP Honda, because overkill. I tried to find a 6:1 gearbox, but had no luck finding one that would take the HP. I ended up making an idler shaft and used pulleys to get the RPM down.
Mine is direct coupled. If the engine is running, the blower is turning.
IIRC, I ended up just over 600 RPM on the blower.
Sometimes we get so much snow it is hard to push out of the way near the end of the season.
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I forgot to ask: How many HP is the diesel you have?
 
I've been thinking about making a beam thingy to go on the tips of forklift forks with adjustable pads (like what a 2 post hoist has). Would be used for quick and easy lifting up car or truck to put on jack stands. I've got a plan all thought up, then I googled it.

This popped up.....

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Scored a set of 48" forks for $100 as my favorite little scrap yard. :smokin: Since the mount I'm making for the tractor uses the same size forks as my komatsu 6k, it'll be handy adding these to the 36" and 42" I already have.

Also grabbed this dingo bucket. The bottom back corner is worn through, but easily fixed with a piece of angle. I may cut the dingo plate off and mount a skid steer plate or I may just fix and flip it. I paid .45/lb for it so it was probably around $120.

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How the fuck do you have time for this shit. Are your retired or did you cash out a house in a commie state?
 
I need to find a scrap yard like that around here.
This place has been awesome. I've lived here almost 7 years and just discovered it about 3 years ago. They're a huge recycler but they redirect some of the good stuff to the sales yard. Most stuff is .45/lb, equipment is a little more and some are just fixed price. Like the forks....3' are $75, 4' are $100, etc. I've bought tons of steel (literally), lathe and mill parts, shelves for my shop, pallet racking, etc.

A few weeks ago I picked up about 20 6' sticks of 1.75" x .25" wall DOM for .45/lb and saturday I found 3 sticks of 2" dia x 5' 7075 aluminum for $2/lb. I was planning on buying that exact material for the lower links on my next build and would have cost me about $200 apiece....I paid $21 apiece.

Only thing is it's kind of a game of luck if they'll have what you need when you're looking for it. I have a habit of buying stuff I might need in the future. Also called hoarding. :laughing: There's an old dude that I'm pretty sure I've seen there every single saturday that I've gone that I found out owns a fab business in town. Go goes in with a can of spray paint and tags everything he's buying and sends a truck later in the week to pick it up. He's the one that buys up all the small structural tube and angle and stuff that us small guys would usually be looking for. :mad3:
 
I work 60+ hours a week. Short commute and spend most of my time in the shop or working on the property. It's easy if you're not a lazy fuck. :flipoff2:
As if I (and the handful of other people around here who have about the same situation) don't? :shaking:

I guess taking your turnkey truck to the scrapyard and spending time browsing for new attachments for your turnkey tractor and new lights for your turnkey shop is what you do when all your shit is already working and I'm below the critical mass of money you need to jump start that kind of life.

Maybe bring some black spray paint next time.
 
As if I (and the handful of other people around here who have about the same situation) don't? :shaking:
I guess taking your turnkey truck to the scrapyard and spending time browsing for new attachments for your turnkey tractor and new lights for your turnkey shop is what you do when all your shit is already working and I'm below the critical mass of money you need to jump start that kind of life.
Maybe bring some black spray paint next time.
you're being a whiny gash
stop it
 
As if I (and the handful of other people around here who have about the same situation) don't? :shaking:

I guess taking your turnkey truck to the scrapyard and spending time browsing for new attachments for your turnkey tractor and new lights for your turnkey shop is what you do when all your shit is already working and I'm below the critical mass of money you need to jump start that kind of life.

Maybe bring some black spray paint next time.

GFY
 
As if I (and the handful of other people around here who have about the same situation) don't? :shaking:

I guess taking your turnkey truck to the scrapyard and spending time browsing for new attachments for your turnkey tractor and new lights for your turnkey shop is what you do when all your shit is already working and I'm below the critical mass of money you need to jump start that kind of life.

Maybe bring some black spray paint next time.

you're being a whiny gash
stop it

This. Work on your shit until it is "turnkey" You shouldn't have to fix everything for two hours before you can use it every time you go to use it. I buy hunks of shit that need work too, but I take them and work them over until they are as reliable as a hammer and then use them when I need them.
 
I was thinking the same thing...

then realized i'm probably lucky i never looked for one. :D :D
I'd imagine most places will sell you stuff if you ask and it isn't a pain for them. These guys are probably paying .05/lb as scrap and then selling it for .45-1.00+/lb. They don't make a killing of people like me buying a few hundred pounds at a time but they do make money and they guys coming in and buying 15-20 tons definitely make it worth their time.

I just found out yesterday that I can buy the non-ferrous stuff from the actual scrap side at this place too. I can pick through the big bins of AL scrap and throw it on the scale.


I have another place I got to on the other side of the county that's also a small scrap yard operation but they also have an outdoor sales yard and a huge warehouse upstairs where they sell all kinds of industrial shit that came from building demo or surpluses from local places as well as stuff that was pulled from the scrapping operation. I've had good luck getting aluminum and brass from them for the machine shop. Hell, I scored a big 2" dia bar of aluminum bronze bearing material for like $60 a few weeks ago. Still had the tag on it and was like $500 from McMaster. One of those things I don't need right now but will gladly throw it on the shelf for when I do need it.
 
I just found out yesterday that I can buy the non-ferrous stuff from the actual scrap side at this place too. I can pick through the big bins of AL scrap and throw it on the scale.
that's really handy for aluminum triplex wire
actual electrical places just throw it out, but you can take all the 50' pieces and crimp them together with good double wall heat shrink and it's perfectly fine to direct bury again
 
I'd imagine most places will sell you stuff if you ask and it isn't a pain for them. These guys are probably paying .05/lb as scrap and then selling it for .45-1.00+/lb. They don't make a killing of people like me buying a few hundred pounds at a time but they do make money and they guys coming in and buying 15-20 tons definitely make it worth their time.

I just found out yesterday that I can buy the non-ferrous stuff from the actual scrap side at this place too. I can pick through the big bins of AL scrap and throw it on the scale.


I have another place I got to on the other side of the county that's also a small scrap yard operation but they also have an outdoor sales yard and a huge warehouse upstairs where they sell all kinds of industrial shit that came from building demo or surpluses from local places as well as stuff that was pulled from the scrapping operation. I've had good luck getting aluminum and brass from them for the machine shop. Hell, I scored a big 2" dia bar of aluminum bronze bearing material for like $60 a few weeks ago. Still had the tag on it and was like $500 from McMaster. One of those things I don't need right now but will gladly throw it on the shelf for when I do need it.
Yeah…. But then I’d buy a bunch of stuff. :flipoff2:
 
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