Chzbrgr
Bucket Driver
How about a mini that will dig 21' deep.
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Homemade Attachments for Forklifts Skidsteers and Other Equipment
- Thread starter Muckin_Slusher
- Start date
Benny
Broke Bastard
PAToyota
Red Skull Member
I like that - and resemble the "learning" comment too...
Chzbrgr
Bucket Driver
PAToyota
Red Skull Member
Ok, next question... Dafuq are you up to?
Firstram
Well-known member
Chzbrgr
Bucket Driver
Bury them deep when you've got the tools.
. Small hole was 30' deep in the middle of the street to inspect some infrastructure. Bigger was 20' deep for an elevator pit in an existing school. Dumped on the little conveyor to get the spoils outside.
. Small hole was 30' deep in the middle of the street to inspect some infrastructure. Bigger was 20' deep for an elevator pit in an existing school. Dumped on the little conveyor to get the spoils outside.montrose818
Banned
arse_sidewards
Red Skull Member
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Can you post some more details on this. Power down or gravity down? Will it take a good bite out of fairly compacted soils? What's the smallest hole size you can realistically do?I wanna see that in action
aczlan
Good Morning!
If its like the others I have seen, its power down, smallest hole size depends on the skill of the operator, but with the double boom, I would bet not much bigger than the open clamshell bucket.
Aaron Z
Chzbrgr
Bucket Driver
Power down. It dangles from the bottom of the stick, plumb. The knuckle we made keeps it from getting it in a bind and bending shit up. The clam cylinders surprise you with the bite they take. The bucket is 18" wide and 44" tooth to tooth opened up. You can clam a hole straight down if you can operate, like Aczlan said. Short stick as we were building might show a little more detail.
roundhouse
Red Skull Member
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Fascinating , that’s a nice invention .Power down. It dangles from the bottom of the stick, plumb. The knuckle we made keeps it from getting it in a bind and bending shit up. The clam cylinders surprise you with the bite they take. The bucket is 18" wide and 44" tooth to tooth opened up. You can clam a hole straight down if you can operate, like Aczlan said. Short stick as we were building might show a little more detail.
Tell us more
About how you shore’d up the sides of the pit .
![[486]](https://data.irate4x4.com/avatars/m/0/94.jpg?1700178133){kind=avatar}
[486]
ugh, that guy again?
not an attachment or even particularly interesting
but just realized that I could gain almost a foot of "narrowness" by knocking the wheel centers out and welding them back in on the other side of the drop center
but just realized that I could gain almost a foot of "narrowness" by knocking the wheel centers out and welding them back in on the other side of the drop center
[486]
ugh, that guy again?
flange was nearly centered on the wheel and they are indeed not set up to be flipped, got the wrinkly center flanges like car/truck wheels rather than the flat plate ones that can be flipped
clodhopper
Get off my lawn, punk!
I wouldnt weld on the air chamber without dismounting the tire. But the centers can be welded if you put wet towels around the outside of the hub area and suck up any heat from the welding. Just keep them wet and in good contact with the center until the weld area cools off. Although this is not a beginner welder activity, better to think through what you are doing as it is still potentially dangerous.
Or you could just weld it fast and run away with your fingers crossed. No boom in a few hours and you are good to go.
[486]
ugh, that guy again?
I knew I shouldn't have posted that damn picture.
It's like any time that you happen to have a welder and a can of brake cleaner in the same picture, someone is going to repost that goddamn article
It's like any time that you happen to have a welder and a can of brake cleaner in the same picture, someone is going to repost that goddamn article
arse_sidewards
Red Skull Member
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The redditization of IBB
It's virtue signaling. People just wanna be seen saying trendy shit. "Look guys I know about phosgene too"
GLTHFJ60
Stupid is as stupid does
not an attachment or even particularly interesting
but just realized that I could gain almost a foot of "narrowness" by knocking the wheel centers out and welding them back in on the other side of the drop center
Does the additional narrowness make it feel any less stable? Feel like it's a win-win situation, smaller footprint, less ground tore up, I like it.
[486]
ugh, that guy again?
It doesn't feel any more tippy side to side, though I haven't really sidehilled... well, I haven't sidehilled it with the bucket all the way up, I've been digging in my basement on a sidehill that you can see in https://irate4x4.com/threads/bought-a-house-from-1910.94670/page-9#post
the pic where its sideways in there, that's a slope that drops about 6' in 20' of run so its steep enough that its somewhat difficult to walk on
it doesn't feel any less stable with the bucket there, below cab roof height
really improved the turning clearances around that center post, can really get around in there a lot better now
arse_sidewards
Red Skull Member
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Anyone got tips for doing a skid steer quick attach conversion on a small machine?
Are the $100 conversion kits on eBay that have the plates and the levers any good?
Should I move the lower pin location closer/further from the ground relative to my current bucket when I weld on the tabs?
When converting my bucket should I build off the back or torch out a rectangular hole and weld in a plate or should I just get some stock and build off the back of the bucket?
Are the $100 conversion kits on eBay that have the plates and the levers any good?
Should I move the lower pin location closer/further from the ground relative to my current bucket when I weld on the tabs?
When converting my bucket should I build off the back or torch out a rectangular hole and weld in a plate or should I just get some stock and build off the back of the bucket?
aczlan
Good Morning!
If you're going to do the conversion, I would cut the ears off the back and weld the plate flat to the back of the bucket.
Then weld the ears to quick attach pieces.
Aaron Z
Then weld the ears to quick attach pieces.
Aaron Z
[486]
ugh, that guy again?
plate on the bucket is dirt simple to do with some 2 1/2x 2 1/2x 1/4 and a piece of 1 1/2x3/8 flat bar
plop the angle on with the pointy side toward the tractor
torch the holes for the quickattach pins
set the coupler in there then weld the flat bar on the top with a couple pieces of thin cardboard used for clearance
box in the two ends with either more angle or more flat bar
no idea on the coupler conversion, pictures of what's already there are always helpful
plop the angle on with the pointy side toward the tractor
torch the holes for the quickattach pins
set the coupler in there then weld the flat bar on the top with a couple pieces of thin cardboard used for clearance
box in the two ends with either more angle or more flat bar
no idea on the coupler conversion, pictures of what's already there are always helpful
I'm just getting ready to do this now on my little Deere 790. Mostly because my bolt-on forks are bending my bucket and I want to be able to swap on a true fork frame.
I bought the $100 clamps from Amazon
And found this 1/4" plate for the bucket side for $40 on ebay. (I actually thought i may be a scam because it seemed too cheap. Showing delivery for tomorrow so I'll know soon enough. I'll post up when it gets here.) I think 1/4" will be more than enough for my lightweight bucket. You can get them up to 1/2" thick I think.
1/4" Thick Steel Mount Plate Skid Steer Adapter Loader Quick Tach Attachment new | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1/4" Thick Steel Mount Plate Skid Steer Adapter Loader Quick Tach Attachment new at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
My tractor has a woods aftermarket bucket on it and it only has a single cylinder in the center for bucket roll so I'm going to have to make a cross bar between to the two clamp plates for the cylinder to attach too. I'm just going to cut the old brackets off the bucket and use those to reproduce the geometry.
[486]
ugh, that guy again?
plate says "toro style" so its prolly the mini-skid size
billybob_81067
Redneck
This thread has now piqued my interest. How do those skid steer mounts hold up to serious abuse? I have a few Michigan 35aws loaders that I would like to fix up with quick attach plates, and just picked up a Case W11 loader that would be nice to have a quick attach on too...
arse_sidewards
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I'm just getting ready to do this now on my little Deere 790. Mostly because my bolt-on forks are bending my bucket and I want to be able to swap on a true fork frame.
I bought the $100 clamps from Amazon
That's basically what I'm looking at buying to convert mine.
I have a proper curved bucket and not some flat plate abomination welded together by an illiterate teenager in south America so unfortunately I can't just weld flat stock and channel to the back to make it fit.
I'll try to get some pics this weekend. I need to either cut out the bottom of the curve or space the quick attach bits out.
Be honest with yourself, are you actually abusing your machines or not? Most people will use their machines lifting capacity or breakout force to the max but most people are not repeatedly crashing their machine into a half frozen dirt pile then lifting the rear tires trying to break out a bucket.
The heaviest skid steers are ~10k. Your Michigan is ~14k.
If you are using commodity skid steer implements on a 14k loader the implements care gonna be what you break 99% of the time.
I would go for it. Worst case you have you have to do additional fab work (mostly on the implements) in order to keep things from flexing and popping off. SSQA stuff tends to want to pop off if you are trying to curl the bucket down into something.
aczlan
Good Morning!
Exactly, in my opinion that's a very deceptively worded ad:
If you're primarily lifting, it should be fine. If you're pushing down significantly expect to have your bucket pop off frequently. You would probably want something more along the lines of a euro mount or the John Deere global mount, those will not pop off.
At least that's what we found with the push box at work and that's why the new loader tractor has a John Deere global mount on it instead of a skid steer mount.
In your case I would order either a 1/2" or at very least 3/8" quick attach plate and use a piece of channel or heavy angle on the top and bottom to make it match.I have a proper curved bucket and not some flat plate abomination welded together by an illiterate teenager in south America so unfortunately I can't just weld flat stock and channel to the back to make it fit.
I'll try to get some pics this weekend. I need to either cut out the bottom of the curve or space the quick attach bits out.
Aaron Z
Well shit. I was afraid I was missing something as to why it was so cheap.
Oh well, I've wasted more $$ on less. Maybe I can modify it for use on something else.
Just ordered the 1/4" one from these guys.
1/4" 5/16" 3/8" 1/2" Skid Steer Loader Mount Plate Bucket Quick Tach Attachment | eBay
Fits skid steers/tractors that with the universal quick tach mounting system. About The Loader Mount Plate Mount Plate Specifications - Includes both handle assemblies and pins. - Heavy Duty Grade 50 structural steel.
www.ebay.com
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