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Homemade Attachments for Forklifts Skidsteers and Other Equipment

Found this on another forum, and it was too cool not to post here.

If the OP of these pics ever shows up here, I hope you don't mind my cross posting.

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neat
sticking the back bumper in the bucket and chaining through the doors limits your steering pretty severely
 
I need to build one of those. I need to figure out how the mechanics of it work.
 
neat
sticking the back bumper in the bucket and chaining through the doors limits your steering pretty severely
Two attachment points on the vehicle and one on the machine works well enough that I wouldn't bother building something like that unless I was moving shit that had plastic bumpers I cared about. Steering angle is only limited by whatever it takes to jackknife the vehicle into the bucket so use a long chain and curl the bucket to adjust.

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Picked up this Ramsey 12k PTO winch for a steal... and then found out something is way wrong in the release clutch and I can't get the damn thing apart. In the for sale photos the handle wasn't visible and the seller even said "it was working but the handle was removed when it was pulled off the old power company truck". It was dark and starting to snow when he dumped it in the bed of my truck. I now see that the freespool handle was torched off and even welding a nut on the thing, I can't get it to budge.

Anyways, I plan on mounting this thing on the back of my grapple bucket. I keep getting stuck on the sides of slimy hills this time of year with my T190... and there are a bunch of nice logs I want to recover out of a greasy and very ditchy area of my property. Will hook up a hydraulic motor to run the PTO drive.

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We have a similar unit. To get that apart you have to take the input shaft/gear assembly out first. Take those 4 bolts out on the lower right side of the unit the unscrew the shaft/gear out. Pull the plate off the right side to get the big ring gear off then the ends and drum will come apart. At least thats how our Ramsey PTO winch came apart.
 
That skid steer tire lift is awesome. So gonna build 2 of them. Have to build one for my buddy he’s forever stabbing cars with forks :lmao::homer:

Looks pretty simple to make. Would be a easy 1 day project. You fuckers will prolly con me into making some kits to assemble these next :flipoff2:
 
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That skid steer tire lift is awesome. So gonna build 2 of them. Have to build one for my buddy he’s forever stabbing cars with forks :lmao::homer:

Looks pretty simple to make. Would be a easy 1 day project. You fuckers will prolly con me into making some kits to assemble these next :flipoff2:
Simpler=better. No hydraulics needed.

Edit: On second thought, this version would severely limit off-road and dirt shenanigans, unless locking pins were added. Hydraulic is definitely worth it.

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I don't know about you guys and your fancy skids. But mine is way too small to be sticking the load 8 feet out in front of it. I just put the forks on and grab a pallet. That seems to work better than just the forks since metal on metal slides too easy. The tiny ass Rounder L700 that I bought 10 years ago that I left at the farm will even pick up cars you don't care about from the back. Bumpers don't make it but whatever. :laughing:
 
I don't know about you guys and your fancy skids. But mine is way too small to be sticking the load 8 feet out in front of it. I just put the forks on and grab a pallet. That seems to work better than just the forks since metal on metal slides too easy. The tiny ass Rounder L700 that I bought 10 years ago that I left at the farm will even pick up cars you don't care about from the back. Bumpers don't make it but whatever. :laughing:
Yeah, this isn't for a Bobcat S70.

This was me, second post in this thread.

The truck's rear tires are off the ground. I measured 10 1/2 feet from the truck's pintle hitch to the center of the skid steer front axle. This was with a medium sized skid steer, just over 7000 lbs machine. I've also picked up cars like cavaliers on the forks, right off the ground, and with enough space to the fork mast that I wasn't touching the car doors.

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Yeah, this isn't for a Bobcat S70.
Mine has 1200+ lbs on a Bobcat S70 but it's no 7k like yours. I would say that is a large frame machine not a mid. It's only been in recent years that the big boy skid steers were 16k. :eek: I'd like to have a bigger machine. But i need to be able to get in a 6 ft gate and not make huge ruts everywhere I go. I can only half fill the bucket on mine if I want to not make a mess of the yard.
 
Mine has 1200+ lbs on a Bobcat S70 but it's no 7k like yours. I would say that is a large frame machine not a mid. It's only been in recent years that the big boy skid steers were 16k. :eek: I'd like to have a bigger machine. But i need to be able to get in a 6 ft gate and not make huge ruts everywhere I go. I can only half fill the bucket on mine if I want to not make a mess of the yard.
tracks FTW. :flipoff2:
 
tracks FTW. :flipoff2:
My brother has a tracked T450. It's worse than mine. I leave ruts. His wholesale scrapes grass to the dirt everytime I try and turn. I prefer my tire machine for 90% of what I do with one.
 
How do people feel about the c-channel SSQA plates vs the flat plate ones?

Local guy has them for $150ea which is about what you can get a flat plate one shipped for.

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How do people feel about the c-channel SSQA plates vs the flat plate ones?

Local guy has them for $150ea which is about what you can get a flat plate one shipped for.
To state the obvious...better visibility, more difficult to attach stuff to.

Probably plenty strong enough, but easier to damage (like bending those side plates).

That doesn't look like C-channel to me. I see radius corners like rectangle tubing.
 
How do people feel about the c-channel SSQA plates vs the flat plate ones?

Local guy has them for $150ea which is about what you can get a flat plate one shipped for.

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Depends what you're making. If you don't need the surface area for welding to, they should be strong enough and you'll probably save alittle weight. I used one of these on the bucket when I converted my little tractor, just to save a few pounds. These are on ebay in 3/8" for $135 shipped.

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And again, depending what you're making, you can also get just the bottom plates and it's just a piece of angle or flat bar on the top. Think I paid $35 shipped for the set I have.

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I'd be making a carriage for pin on forks so it'd just have some thick as fuck plates welded down the sides. I'd probably X brace the middle with drops for shits and giggles.

This is the ad.

 
I have that ugly "50 Footer" brush mower that I built for my skid out of an old 6' abandoned 3 point hitch bush hog... well unless I was attentive to the ground changing, etc, the thing would scallop or over-ride hills and valleys, etc. Plus the GF keeps bugging me she wants to mow with it too.

So in an attempt to make the thing function a little better and require less attention from the operator, it is now built to where you can just float the boom and the machine does its thing. The tank domes prevent it from gouging in. There is a hub inside that the stub indexed into, just forgot to take a picture of that. Piece of 1/4" wall x 6" scrap tube, the tank domes are some art project thing that never got built, and the bearings and shafting I had from my hoarding of hardware.

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I foresee wrapping cut grass around that till it can't spin any more...

Aaron Z
Mowed about 4 acres of various tall grass, briars, etc today with it and it didn't wrap up at all. The tail... err, nose wheel ended up with some vines on it but the roller stayed clear all day actually. So far so good.
 
Mowed about 4 acres of various tall grass, briars, etc today with it and it didn't wrap up at all. The tail... err, nose wheel ended up with some vines on it but the roller stayed clear all day actually. So far so good.
Better luck than me then...

Aaron Z
 
I ran the "franked-mower" for about 3 hours and never had an issue. A friend jumped in the thing to touch up one area and turned hard when down in a set of old ruts and dug the side of the deck into the dirt and rolled it under. The deck side that got bent was really rotted out though so there wasn't much material there to begin with. Decided that since the overall machine was working out for its intended needs that fixing the deck side vs just bending it back out was probably a good idea. Changed out the slide rails to some angle with the points down vs just a piece of flat bar to maybe help the deck ride up vs cutting in if that happens again. I do a decent job at lifting the deck before turning but I won't always be the only one running this thing around the family farm in the future.

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How do people feel about the c-channel SSQA plates vs the flat plate ones?

Local guy has them for $150ea which is about what you can get a flat plate one shipped for.

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I'm thinking my 9' plow would tweak that up some. I'd want a center piece somewhere in there. for lighter stuff I guess it'd work.
 
That skid steer tire lift is awesome. So gonna build 2 of them. Have to build one for my buddy he’s forever stabbing cars with forks :lmao::homer:

Looks pretty simple to make. Would be a easy 1 day project. You fuckers will prolly con me into making some kits to assemble these next :flipoff2:
in! :flipoff2:
 
Hitch that clamps onto the Forks, also doubles as a jig pole by sliding a 10ft stick of 2x2 tubing into the receiver.

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Loader Pin Material.... drilled for grease applications.

I picked up a EARLY version of a Bobcat 331. Its in the first 2k units produced while still under Melroe. Runs like a champ, has some hydraulic issues that are easy to fix for the most part, but the pins are bad... like throwing a hot dog down the hallway.

I've got access to someone who can Line Bore it (supposedly) and can make my own bushings on the lathe and can rebore the rod eyes that the bushings were worn out so far that the rod eye is now being beat up... all of that can be done in my little shop.

But... as for the pins. I've got an old farmer friend barking in my ear that I absolutely have to use hardened ground pins otherwise I'll shear one off or bend one and then never get it back out without drilling the ends out with a mag drill or something up to the shear plane.

I've got another friend saying that since I'll be upsizing the pin diameter in the re-pin process that I can probably get away with just machining 1144, especially since it needs to be bored and cross drilled for grease application.

Experience and thoughts? Sources for nominal size ground pins? Etc?

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But... as for the pins. I've got an old farmer friend barking in my ear that I absolutely have to use hardened ground pins otherwise I'll shear one off or bend one and then never get it back out without drilling the ends out with a mag drill or something up to the shear plane.

I've got another friend saying that since I'll be upsizing the pin diameter in the re-pin process that I can probably get away with just machining 1144, especially since it needs to be bored and cross drilled for grease application.

Experience and thoughts? Sources for nominal size ground pins? Etc?

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I've purchased pins from skid steer solutions before, with decent luck, for my previous 773...
 
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