help me buy a shitbox tractor

[YotaAtieToo]

Just lifting stuff is all my FIL ever used it for which is a valid use.

 

[87manche]

There's actually a break between 68-75, the grill on the tractor OP posted is a 68-71. What will show you down to the day of final assembly is the tag underneath the clamshell hood. With the front axle it's not and SU (score! same front axle as the 5000 and more than capable of handling a proper sized loader in the future). It also appears to be an Euro-spec tractor as it has 6 bolt rear wheels (US-spec tractor had 8x8 bolt pattern wheels) and the headlights in the grill (though that lower grill is homemade, with no holes in the side of the nose I'd say they were factory in the lower grill but someone busted the original and didn't want to find a new one). I wouldn't worry about it being a Euro tractor, there were some buyers at the dealership dad worked at back in the day that wanted the headlights in the grill so you didn't have to move the headlights when installing a loader but didn't want the square-top fenders (which weren't always available every year or for every model) with the headlights there. As stated previously, all the parts that will matter are the same as the US-spec tractors.

Agreed, but I would say in the south there are more of these in the salvage yards and you may be able to pick up the entire original equipment stuff for 1/2 to 1/3 the price of the new aftermarket stuff.

OP that tractor is worth about 5-5500 here. If you can get it for 4000 I'd just buy aczlan's linked remote setup. You'll still be into it for what's probably market value or a little under

ETA: even though it's euro-spec, it may have been sold new here. Dad said towards the end of the model year if they had sold more than they planned in the US that they would sometimes fill the dealer orders with euro-spec tractors. Just in case you would be afraid of a more recent import.

but you told me that ford didn't import euro tractors and they were super rare in north america.

 

[TRINDU]

Just dont buy a shitty little tractor, buy the biggest you can afford. Lots of good advice about brands and models already posted.

I bought this B2320 cheap and sold it to the first person to look at it. Backhoe was useless, bucket was useless. Its laughable and only good for carrying a bag of mulch like the tv commercials show.

 

[IowaOffRoad]

I think the 4000 is slightly bigger then mine. The loader is almost the only reason I use mine. Between the brush clearing and lifting stuff. But even if I'm using the 3 point stuff, it's never bothered me being there. I do have power steering though.

Your 3430 probably weighs what that 4000 does the way it sits right now if the 4000 doesn't have any ballast. Newer, they seemed to add weight about every new series. Probably about the same HP too.

but you told me that ford didn't import euro tractors and they were super rare in north america.

Euro-spec tractors. I bet only about 1/2 the 3-4 cylinder Fords were built in the US between 70-80, and less than half of ALL Fords from 80-on were built in the US. The Euro-spec tractors are still rare, but not super-rare. Now, in the last 15 years there have been importers buying the 2-3-4-5-6-7 series tractors and importing them. The only thing really odd about them is how they engaged the 4wd (if equipped) and the hand park brake being standard in europe sometime in the 70's. Makes them slightly harder to find very specific parts that most people will never see, but it's all available.
I was speaking of the odd 3415 that was basically a Shibaru. It's a unicorn That being said, those Jap Fords are tough and take a fair amount of abuse and neglect before you break stuff that's hard to get.

 

[Hooligan]

There is also the construction series from Massey. Mine is from somewhere in the 19 70’s. There was a 40 and 50 series, some were 4x4. Has shuttle shift and live pto. PO had installed rear top/tilt, which I wouldn’t ever not have. Mine is good size and weight for my 5 flat treeless acres. Easily runs my 6’ bush hog. Mine has 3-cyl Perkins which is supposed to be really reliable. I’m not sure on support parts for repairs. I did have difficulty getting hydraulic steering pump, but eventually found one.
Filters and such are easily available. They were made up into 80’s maybe early 90s, but at that time Terex was making them. Point is, try looking up skip loaders in your search. Think some Deere skip loaders also had PTO.

 

[arse_sidewards]

internal volume is important in mufflers

Bigass resonator will quiet even a straight pipe right down

On a road vehicle with a kick up over the axle or some other bends keeping the sound from having a straight-ish path out it will. On a tractor or something that's just straight out the top it won't help nearly as much. You need something to partially reflect the sound waves back in so that they get all mixed up and the individual exhaust pulses become less distinct.

 

[aczlan]

There is also the construction series from Massey. Mine is from somewhere in the 19 70’s. There was a 40 and 50 series, some were 4x4. Has shuttle shift and live pto. PO had installed rear top/tilt, which I wouldn’t ever not have. Mine is good size and weight for my 5 flat treeless acres. Easily runs my 6’ bush hog. Mine has 3-cyl Perkins which is supposed to be really reliable. I’m not sure on support parts for repairs. I did have difficulty getting hydraulic steering pump, but eventually found one.
Filters and such are easily available. They were made up into 80’s maybe early 90s, but at that time Terex was making them. Point is, try looking up skip loaders in your search. Think some Deere skip loaders also had PTO.

Those Massey's are very solid machines we had a Industrial 35 growing up, that's what I learned to drive a tractor on.

One thing I don't think it's been mentioned that you brought up which I would say is critical for bush hogging is a live PTO.
For the era tractor you're looking at, a live PTO will have a two-stage clutch that you push down halfway to stop moving and all the way to disengage the PTO.
An independent PTO will have its own clutch and you will not need to hit the clutch pedal to turn it on and off.
That way if you hit a heavy spot while mowing, you can stop moving to let the mower catch up and the engine come back up to RPM before you stall it out.

If you don't have a live or independent PTO as soon as you hit the clutch to stop moving dpto gets disconnected from the motor and if you have a heavy load on it it will stop spinning right then and there.

Back to the Masseys:
The two weak points on those (and this includes pretty much any Massey Ferguson that will be in your price range) were the steering and the high/low range sun gear.
The way the steering works, you turn the steering wheel, it pushes on the steering arm that has a small amount of space it can move and that pushes or pulls on a hydraulic valve which then uses hydraulics to push or pull on the shaft that moves the drag link.
The problem is the splines on one of the shafts wear out over time, not a huge process to replace but it needs to be done or you can't steer with a load in the bucket.
It's probably the cheapest of any of these tractors to have power steering issues with:

Steering Arm fits Massey Ferguson 165 3165 30 175 31 514281M91

Steering Arm for Massey Ferguson Construction & Industrial(s) 3165, Tractor(s) 30, 31, 165, 175. Replaces Massey Ferguson OEM nos 534155M91, 514281M91.

www.tractorpartsasap.com

If you end up having to replace it, when you take everything apart TIE THE STEERING WHEEL IN ONE PLACE, if you don't and it gets spun while it's apart it can stab right through the radiator and then you have to take apart the the front hydraulic pump driveshaft to take the radiator off and have it repaired or replaced, I know this from personal experience.

The sun gear problem is that there is a inner gear which is pressed into a housing (see below) and then staked, they can start to slide and then you have to remove the transmission top cover, take the Sun gear out and carefully tack it together in four to six spots. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES WELD THE COMPLETE BEAD ALL THE WAY AROUND. If you do, it will shrink the gear just enough that it does not fit and then you will have to buy a replacement Sun gear.

Massey Ferguson | Epicycle Gear Carrier Unit - Standard Duty | A51256 | 897016M92 897711M92 897711M93 | Anglo Agriparts

Buy Massey Ferguson Epicycle Gear Carrier Unit - Standard Duty For 35, 65, 133, 135, 140, 145, 152, 155, 158, 165, 230, 235, 240, 243, 245, 253, 255, 260, 265, 275, 340, 342, 350, 352, 355, 360, 362, 375, 550, 560, 765 Tractors From Anglo Agriparts, Part 897016M92 897711M92 897711M93 | A51256

www.anglo-agriparts.com

Just my $0.02, I always enjoyed driving dad's Massey growing up, like any other industrial tractor they will be very heavy compared to a farm tractor.

Aaron Z

 

[lagunaMS]

too slow once again! I had told the lady I would come today instead of saturday but she sold it yesterday. oh well, i'm sure another will pop up

thanks again for all the info on these things, makes me a lot more comfortable going to look at a used one

 

[JR4X]

thanks, not sure what year it is but maybe yall can tell from the pics. it looks good and the lady said she's owned it 35 years and has only used it to cut 3 acres a few times a year and plant a garden. is this big enough for what i'm wanting to do?

$4500 is what she's asking

If I was close enough I’d have swooped in and bought it out from under you for asking price

 

[lagunaMS]

couple others within a 1.5-hour drive:

another beat up case, this time a 685, comes with disc, box blade, finishing mower, bush hog

and a 66 jd 2510, kinda shitty pics

 

[lagunaMS]

If I was close enough I’d have swooped in and bought it out from under you for asking price

she said someone showed up with her asking price in cash so i don't blame her. i would've done the same thing

 

[lagunaMS]

the jd is only 45 mins away and way cheaper, and i can buy implements later

 

[dave_dj1]

not sure where you are but if you don't mind traveling there are a bunch that have popped up recently in or below your price range

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[lagunaMS]

not sure where you are but if you don't mind traveling there are a bunch that have popped up recently in or below your price range

thanks, i'm in south mississippi though. don't wanna drive more than a few hours just in case it's a POS when i get there

 

[lagunaMS]

lady with the JD said it's missing the brake valve and the pedals are removed, quick googling shows that valve used is about $800

edit: 800 was reman, it's 4-500 used

 

[junkytj]

Sun shade. I got ripped up on a forum somewhere about stuff on top of a backhoe roof (all my work lights are on the top of my equipment) cause it all gets ripped off by trees. I dont have trees, so I didnt think about that. In this case, if OP has trees on the property, have no top at all might be a plus as nothing to get hung in a tree and the trees provide better shade than some ROPS top.

What remote do you need for a brush hog? Only ones I am familiar with are hung on the 3 point and run by the PTO.

Cylinder for raising and lowering heavier mowers is pretty common. You have asingle wheel or dual wheels on a lever that can raise or lower the deck. I was really thinking about bat wings that actually require a tripple back there, but understand that tractor aint pulling one of those.

 

[lagunaMS]

and this ford 5000 4 hrs away. says it needs a clutch but "runs strong and operates great"

could "needs a clutch" actually mean the whole trans is fucked? or is that pretty unlikely

 

[aczlan]

Probably just a clutch.

Aaron Z

 

[lagunaMS]

Probably just a clutch.

Aaron Z

never worked on a tractor at all, how hard are these to swap out

 

[aczlan]

never worked on a tractor at all, how hard are these to swap out

Not overly hard, but everything is heavy.
See the red line? Everything that crosses it has to be removed:

So, hood, fuel tank, steering, wiring, it all comes apart, then you chock the front axle pivot at the blue circle, support both the engine and the bellhousing (with one side on someting that you can roll to move them apart), unbolt the bellhousing bolts, slide both halves apart, replace the clutch, probably replace the engine rear main and transmission input shaft seals, then re-assemble.
A little newer model, but here is how you take it apart:


Seals and clutch install:



Aaron Z

 

[2big bronco]

What about the little 1999 4wd l42 or whatever it is on fb in your area? Or the mahindra with the loader just above your budget?

 

[ANGELO]

We split the my roommate massey for a clutch on shell, with a floor jack and a cherry picker. Definitely sucked but it was doable. Definitely would recommend doing it on concrete though

 

[lagunaMS]

What about the little 1999 4wd l42 or whatever it is on fb in your area? Or the mahindra with the loader just above your budget?

if we're talking about the same one that was a l2900 and would do everything i need except lifting stuff, and the one with the loader is nice but 7k is on the high end of my range and don't want to go any higher. 4-5k would be ideal

 

[lagunaMS]

We split the my roommate massey for a clutch on shell, with a floor jack and a cherry picker. Definitely sucked but it was doable. Definitely would recommend doing it on concrete though

thanks, i can use my dad's shop just have no experience with it. seems straightforward from the video though

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

couple others within a 1.5-hour drive:

another beat up case, this time a 685, comes with disc, box blade, finishing mower, bush hog

and a 66 jd 2510, kinda shitty pics

I like green paint but that one is beat..

 

[2big bronco]

if we're talking about the same one that was a l2900 and would do everything i need except lifting stuff, and the one with the loader is nice but 7k is on the high end of my range and don't want to go any higher. 4-5k would be ideal

This one

At 5k (worth an offer) im sure you could easily trade up for bigger older iron if you needed to in the future.


Edit: it looks like the model in the add doesnt match the picture... I was thinking it was the l43

 

[lagunaMS]

yea that looks nice, i didn't see that one

 

[lagunaMS]

that company is about 3 hours from me, they have a ford 4000 on their site too

 

[IowaOffRoad]

OP that 5000 that needs a clutch may be just that, though it would be worth trying to adjust it first. Sometimes people have a new clutch installed years ago, don't know it can be adjusted and mistakenly think that they need a new one again.

If you get the 5000 assume it needs a PTO hub when you clutch it as well. In our shop an open station 5000 would be about an hour to have split to the point you can access the clutch, but we have stands built to make it easier. The fuel tank will stay with the back half, there are 2 bolts on the back of the cylinder head that are a little hard to reach (5/8" wrench). A long wrench makes this easier. That's about the only hard part. Expect the fuel shutoff valve to leak, you may drain the tank and replace the valve when doing the job. Build some dowel pins out of long bolts to facilitate rolling it back together. DO NOT PULL IT TOGETHER WITH BOLTS, THIS IS HOW YOU BREAK EXPENSIVE SHIT.

The 5000 Ford is one of the best all-around utility tractors you can get. Simple to run/maintenance, tougher than hell, plenty of power for size, decent weight but not too heavy, maneuverable. Don't know what they are asking but in this part of the country, looking like that, with a working clutch, that's a 7500 dollar tractor every day. A little spit and polish and some patience might get you 9k.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Build some dowel pins out of long bolts to facilitate rolling it back together. DO NOT PULL IT TOGETHER WITH BOLTS, THIS IS HOW YOU BREAK EXPENSIVE SHIT.

Or do and just don't crank it when it's not going.


There are no rocket surgeons on a farm. You don't gotta be bright. You just can't be dumb.