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help me buy a shitbox tractor

Gregj50!!!!! said:
OP, did you die in a tractor accident while test driving???????
:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:
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Guess I’ll be learning how to change a tractor clutch soon


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The clutch doesn’t want to disengage just like he said. I told him to drive it onto the trailer since he knows he clutch better than me. This spare tire carrier saved it from going over the front rail. Notice how it’s bent way forward and the tire tracks on the tire lol

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assuming it's not been brought up to temp for some time, just put it in neutral and start it and let it run for an hour. The clutch may very well unstick itself once it gets warm.
I've done it in pickups with clutches stuck to the flywheel.
after you make sure the linkage isn't fubar of course.
 
87manche said:
assuming it's not been brought up to temp for some time, just put it in neutral and start it and let it run for an hour. The clutch may very well unstick itself once it gets warm.
I've done it in pickups with clutches stuck to the flywheel.
after you make sure the linkage isn't fubar of course.
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Make sure clutch linkage is not the problem, Chain it to a tree without much slack, Put in a higher gear (3rd or 4th), start engine with your foot on the clutch and let her eat. be ready to shut down the engine if it doesn't free up and starts bucking.
 
This thread inspired me to try and revive the Ford 4000 that’s been sitting for ~15 years at the orchard. Good battery and a squirt of Cosby sauce for good luck. Started like it’s only been sitting a couple days. Wish it wasn’t the weird power shift setup. Plan was to sell it but it’s probably not worth a whole lot.
 

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Speaking of shitbox tractors, i picked this up this week. Agracat 2940. It’s a Chinese Deere. It’s a Jimma with a clone perkins, and while it all works, you can tell it was built budget friendly. Didn’t need it but I couldn’t afford not to buy it.
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Bowe said:
This thread inspired me to try and revive the Ford 4000 that’s been sitting for ~15 years at the orchard. Good battery and a squirt of Cosby sauce for good luck. Started like it’s only been sitting a couple days. Wish it wasn’t the weird power shift setup. Plan was to sell it but it’s probably not worth a whole lot.
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Where are you located?
 
Not sure what is going on but I'm thinking Bidenomics as there are a ton of tractors for sale on FBM for good prices. You couldn't touch one for the last 3 years.
 
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Whatever you do to break free the clutch, make sure you film it....

 
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gunracer1 said:
i would damn sure try freeing it up before you split it. and congrats
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87manche said:
assuming it's not been brought up to temp for some time, just put it in neutral and start it and let it run for an hour. The clutch may very well unstick itself once it gets warm.
I've done it in pickups with clutches stuck to the flywheel.
after you make sure the linkage isn't fubar of course.
Click to expand...

Juztyn00 said:
Make sure clutch linkage is not the problem, Chain it to a tree without much slack, Put in a higher gear (3rd or 4th), start engine with your foot on the clutch and let her eat. be ready to shut down the engine if it doesn't free up and starts bucking.
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Hoping one of these will solve the issue so it doesn’t have to be changed. We’ll see
Bowe said:
This thread inspired me to try and revive the Ford 4000 that’s been sitting for ~15 years at the orchard. Good battery and a squirt of Cosby sauce for good luck. Started like it’s only been sitting a couple days. Wish it wasn’t the weird power shift setup. Plan was to sell it but it’s probably not worth a whole lot.
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Nice I like that one
Juztyn00 said:
Speaking of shitbox tractors, i picked this up this week. Agracat 2940. It’s a Chinese Deere. It’s a Jimma with a clone perkins, and while it all works, you can tell it was built budget friendly. Didn’t need it but I couldn’t afford not to buy it.
E0B1AD8B-6650-4E84-A0EE-8E50E578D408.jpeg
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Never heard of these, if it’s cheap enough why not
 
For shits and giggles see if there's an inspection or access cover to get to the clutch. Worst case you can at least see what's going on, best case you hammer a screwdriver in there and free it up
 
I didn't have time to read the whole thread but I will say along with everyone else that a tractor without a bucket isn't much. Mine is a mid-50's gas and it has a box scraper and lift bucket. As near as I can estimate the lift is somewhere close to 1K. 14 bolts are pretty easy.

But you can get to spinning in the dirt with a heavy load on the front. I don't have any thing in my rear tires.

And......the gas can be a little bit of a pain. But I work with it. Most issues are due to my own deferred maintenance.

I couldn't live without it now even though I don't use it a ton. But when I need it is is great. It was a buddy deal about 15 years ago. Well worth owning.
 
D Nelly said:
For shits and giggles see if there's an inspection or access cover to get to the clutch. Worst case you can at least see what's going on, best case you hammer a screwdriver in there and free it up
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There is one, haven’t opened it up yet just jammed it in gear and chugged around the yard a little bit. Ran it for about an hour this mornint

I’ve read/seen stuff when googling about trying to free it up, will definitely try all of that before even thinking about splitting the tractor in half
toyotajeep said:
I didn't have time to read the whole thread but I will say along with everyone else that a tractor without a bucket isn't much. Mine is a mid-50's gas and it has a box scraper and lift bucket. As near as I can estimate the lift is somewhere close to 1K. 14 bolts are pretty easy.

But you can get to spinning in the dirt with a heavy load on the front. I don't have any thing in my rear tires.

And......the gas can be a little bit of a pain. But I work with it. Most issues are due to my own deferred maintenance.

I couldn't live without it now even though I don't use it a ton. But when I need it is is great. It was a buddy deal about 15 years ago. Well worth owning.
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Yea FEL would def be nice. Now that I have the tractor I will just take my time to look for implements here and there as I need them. FEL would nice nice to have eventually but don’t have a need for one just yet
 
IowaOffRoad said:
OP how does the clutch feel when you push on the pedal? Does it actually feel like you are compressing springs on a pressure plate or does it feel like the pedal return spring only?
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It’s a strong pedal feel so it feels like normal, just wasn’t doing anything. But now….

The clutch works!! It was fucked at first, wouldn’t disengage at all. When I got it unloaded I fired it up and let it run for a minute, was able to slip it into 2nd and jam it in low range and it would go, then coasting downhill I could get into 5th and go some more. Rode around the yard for 15 mins and parked it and let it run for another half hour. Then shut it off.

Watched this video and read this on a tractor forum



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Started it up again, got it in 5th and was running laps in the yard and half throttle and just stomping the brakes til it started bogging down while holding the clutch in the whole time. After 3 or 4 times I let off the brakes and it coasted to a stop with the clutch in just like its supposed to.

Then I got it stopped, shifted smoothly into and out of all gears and was able to start and stop normally.

Ran it through my parent’s neighborhood in 8th at 3/4 throttle and it did perfect, chugged up a couple hills with zero issues.

One less thing to worry about

:smokin::smokin::smokin::smokin::smokin::smokin:
 
PRO tip, if you leave the tractor stored for long periods hook the clutch pedal down. My new Kubota L2501 actually has a hook and tab to do just that.
Glad you got it free'd up!
Now trade it for one with a loader :flipoff2:
 
My father used to put a block of wood pressing clutch pedal wedged under the hood to keep the clutch from sticking on his ford tractor if it was going to sit for an extended length of time.
 
there's a block of wood attached to mine with a piece of rope. It's painted yellow and that's exactly what it was for from the factory. Jam it between the floorboard and the clutch linkage.
 
That’s Fkn great OP!!!!
Gotta be a good feeling you can just jump in that beast and go!!!!

Now……

Your gonna want that FEL once you’re done joyriding that thing for a few days!!!!!
 
dave_dj1 said:
PRO tip, if you leave the tractor stored for long periods hook the clutch pedal down. My new Kubota L2501 actually has a hook and tab to do just that.
Glad you got it free'd up!
Now trade it for one with a loader :flipoff2:
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muddyrover said:
My father used to put a block of wood pressing clutch pedal wedged under the hood to keep the clutch from sticking on his ford tractor if it was going to sit for an extended length of time.
Click to expand...

87manche said:
there's a block of wood attached to mine with a piece of rope. It's painted yellow and that's exactly what it was for from the factory. Jam it between the floorboard and the clutch linkage.
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good advice, i'll fashion a clutch stick someday soon. kinda like Peg's high idle stick, but for the clutch
Gregj50!!!!! said:
That’s Fkn great OP!!!!
Gotta be a good feeling you can just jump in that beast and go!!!!

Now……

Your gonna want that FEL once you’re done joyriding that thing for a few days!!!!!
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all in good time, i'm not letting myself spend any money for a while lol but will look for one eventually

can't wait to go home and joy ride some more
Levigarrett76 said:
Nica find man. What's under the hood of that GMT400? Nice rig
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thanks, just a stock 350 with 126k on it. Does good enough for the towing that I do, air bags in the rear help a lot, and I have a 14bolt and front diff with 4.10s waiting to go in so that should make it even better
 
lagunaMS said:
good advice, i'll fashion a clutch stick someday soon. kinda like Peg's high idle stick, but for the clutch

all in good time, i'm not letting myself spend any money for a while lol but will look for one eventually

can't wait to go home and joy ride some more

thanks, just a stock 350 with 126k on it. Does good enough for the towing that I do, air bags in the rear help a lot, and I have a 14bolt and front diff with 4.10s waiting to go in so that should make it even better
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Hell yea. Ive been really pleased with the stock 5.7 in my YJ, it just works
 
Levigarrett76 said:
Hell yea. Ive been really pleased with the stock 5.7 in my YJ, it just works
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yea, great motor! This one is a 97 and is reliable as a hammer.

i also have a 97 Chevy half ton with the 5.7 as well. It's almost as reliable as the GMC, but sometimes won't stay idling on hot restarts.
 
Bowe said:
This thread inspired me to try and revive the Ford 4000 that’s been sitting for ~15 years at the orchard. Good battery and a squirt of Cosby sauce for good luck. Started like it’s only been sitting a couple days. Wish it wasn’t the weird power shift setup. Plan was to sell it but it’s probably not worth a whole lot.
Click to expand...

That tractor has some value, especially if the Selecto-Speed is working properly. Where are you?
 
Anyone have backyard/shade tree tricks for a lucas cav injection pump on a 3 cyl ford?
Long story short the fuel went bad from sitting too much. I cleaned tank, filters and have good fuel to pump now. There is Light coat of surface rust inside the injection pump and I'm thinking shit inside the pump head is stuck cause I cant get fuel to injectors. I tried popping the top off of it and verifying the rod thing is moving as it should like discussed on tractorbynet.

Tractor only has 800 hrs and has always ran fine, it just sat too much in the years leading up to and after my dad passed. Now trying to revive it without taking pump hour away to be gone thru.
 
Mercedesrover said:
That tractor has some value, especially if the Selecto-Speed is working properly. Where are you?
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Eastern Ks. I haven’t fully tested the Selecto speed but the short drive I did it seems to work correctly but is leaking fluid from somewhere judging by the pan underneath having some atf in it. I had heard parts are unobtainable at this point.
 
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