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Gm Dana 60 alternative

Sold my additional D60/14B set of differentials for a little more than $2500.00 to a guy from the SanFranFreakShow area.

In about 2016 or so when my black K30 shit the bed.
 
94toytruck said:
GM and Dodge KP knuckles are different too but exchange with each other. The steering arm is a different height
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Good point that I forgot. I want to say Dodge was higher.... but if one goes hi-steer, not a deal breaker ;) But commonly available weld on strengthen kit is Chevy so it doesn't work for Dodge(yup, I bought one:homer:)
 
Lil'John said:
Good point that I forgot. I want to say Dodge was higher.... but if one goes hi-steer, not a deal breaker ;) But commonly available weld on strengthen kit is Chevy so it doesn't work for Dodge(yup, I bought one:homer:)
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They are higher, I run them with Sky double shear arns with good success.
 
Dodge is 2" narrower wms, but 1" wider perch spacing. What makes it work in a Chevy is that the hangers are like 3.5" wide for a 2.5" wide spring - so narrower bushings and some washers/spacer gives the offset.

91-93 dodge went to internal hubs and thick rotors like chevy. Studs are only 1/2" on a srw but Chevy 9/16" swap right in.
 
My information could be wrong."call" WFO.

They tend to buy up 60's randomly and may have one laying around that's not spoken for yet. I had a buddy that used to sell them 60's by the truck load.
 

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They're still out there... this guy dismantles CUCVs
 
Gm has bigger spring studs/bolts than Dodge also. I always thought GM had the wider pad for the spring. I ran toyota leafs with a Dodge and they fit perfect.
 
Twankie said:
Do they swap sides and weld on perches? The only reason I bought a gm60 is because I wanted to stay leaf sprung in my square body. I think its easy enough for anyone to cut tubes and change orientation if going with links.
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I am not completely sure how he is doing it, he claims to be using internal sleeves when doing it and charging 500. Id guess this is more geared too axles getting trussed and running links.
 
80s/early 90s dodge dana 60. Get the internal hub model. That's what's in my K5
 
2big bronco said:
Could you get a next to free ford dana 50 and use the C's and everything else?
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Possibly. Though if I'm going to that trouble, I might as well build a fabbed housing for what they run now.
 
Lil'John said:
A dodge kingpin is 2" narrower than Ford/Chevy at 67". I forget spring perch mounting difference and I want to say the perch on a Dodge was narrower than Chevy. Dodge works great in Land Cruisers: cut long side 7", weld on new long side perch, and have very easy 60" bullet proof axle.

I forget the end year but Dodge was an external mounted freewheel hub with no readily available 35 spline unlockers. I want to say through 87. For 88 to 93, they used internal hubs like Chevy/Ford. 35 spline drive slugs are out there. I forget the two brands I've used in the past.

There is some difference between Chevy/Dodge in the brakes and brake backing plates but my memory isn't good.

Last newer Dodge D60 I bought was ~$900 to the local freight hub(3-4 years ago)... it wasn't a rusted out piece of crap. Last one I priced was ~$1100.
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I thought it was only 91-93 that used internal hub bodies on the Dodges?
 
Here's the guy on FB that's building passenger drop axles. I'd rather the tubes were pressed out and then swapped, but I don't think you're gonna find anyone to do that near $500.

Copy and pasted for posterity, and for those that won't click a FB link:
"No axle for sale but if you bring me one I can flip it for you. Tubes get sleeved and then welded. 500 to flip a axle."
Garrett Mattos
Lincoln, CA

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I will agree if you're trying to do an easy swap and stay leaf sprung, then the GM or Dodge 60 is easier, but a passenger drop SD60 is definitely a nicer setup.
 
West coast frame told me its about $800 to swap tubes in an axle (or maybe that was to "retube" with new tubing) anymore.

The big thing with buying a "cheap" kp axle is it's still typicaly missing $1000-1500 worth of parts. The last 2 kp axles i got cheap still cost me 6-900 for outers and shafts. Its never gona have the gears you want or a locker so $500-1500 in bearings/gears/locker.

I bought a external hub dodge srw for $100 ( and it wasnt even filthy) and sold it for $500.
I have bought a gm srw for $200 out of a yard and a buddy got one out of the same yard a year or 2 early also. Found a ford bjd60 on fb for $4 or 700 also, So deals are out there if you work for them.

I also have a superduty 60 i got for $50, its a pile of shit but its builder parts.

Op's hang up is p-side diff, all the modern and cheap housings are d-side, that superduty truss job looks like leaf spring it would be a possibility. But at the same time a ruffstuff 60 housing with c's is what? $1500? You could easily be built under $4k and not a hacked up pile shit.

So lets say you pay retard market $ of $2200 of a complete gm srw d60 with 3.73 gears
So you dont know exactly what condition it is so youre gona give it the full refresh.
King pin kits(2) $200
Wheel brgs (2) $200
Dana gears $400
Locker (detroit) $900
Diff brg kit and seals $300
Ujoints (2) $125
Rotors(2) $200
Axle $2200
Total $4525.

So now lets say you do the superduty tube swap job.
Axle $500 +/-
Tube swap $800
Truss $350 (est just looking @ rs $'s)
Balljoints $250
8x6.5" wheel hubs (ebay first pair i found) (2) $400
Ujoints $125
Gears $400
Brg kit & seals $300
Locker (detroit) $900
i have no idea wtf rotor to use so ?$300?
Total $4325.

So $200 less for a mixed pile and youre running your ass off to extra shops and trips and no have some hinky parts.

And neither of those include steering options
 
Ive been buying d60 things lately kind of just because, research/comparisons, and idk maybe future axle things i may want to do.
These are just so prices and what it got me (bearing in mind im looking for "cheap deals")

Dodge kp knuckles, shafts, drw internal hubs, brake brackets. $400ish
Gm kp housing only w/caps $100
Gm shafts $200
Ford kp knuckles, c's, spindles, brake brackets, drw hubs, $500
Ford sd housing, knuckles, 1 shaft, $50
Ford sd housing (chrashed and bent) 30pk coors
Dodge cad d60 $free$ (but wtf want those to build)

building a complete gm drw d60 from fb/ibb with almost no new parts still cost me $1500ish, i think the bearings and seals were the only "new" parts.
 
Lil'John said:
Good point that I forgot. I want to say Dodge was higher.... but if one goes hi-steer, not a deal breaker ;) But commonly available weld on strengthen kit is Chevy so it doesn't work for Dodge(yup, I bought one:homer:)
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And now i got it ;)

The dodge knuckles are slightly different, works just fine on a gm housing with leafs....
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I say "just fine" because once you get the tierod installed it clears the leafs with the shorter gm perches, but getting the tierod on under the leafs is a bit tricky.
 
u2slow said:
Dodge is 2" narrower wms, but 1" wider perch spacing. What makes it work in a Chevy is that the hangers are like 3.5" wide for a 2.5" wide spring - so narrower bushings and some washers/spacer gives the offset.

91-93 dodge went to internal hubs and thick rotors like chevy. Studs are only 1/2" on a srw but Chevy 9/16" swap right in.
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To bad the drw aren the same way :(
Gm drw are 9/16 where dodhe are 5/8, the problem is the 5/8 studs have a retardedly oversized shoulder and there is no existing 9/16 stud that fits.

I have all 3 drw hubs and the amount of differences is pretty surprizing. Fortunately gm and dodge wheels hubs are interchangeable, as is most of the components. Only the short side inner axle is 1 part that doesnt swap between the 2 units.
 
Grendel said:

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They're still out there... this guy dismantles CUCVs
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He also asks comically high prices and his adds reek of PAE :laughing:

Which brings us right back around to 2BB's "you could re-tube and re-drill a SD60 for less" comment.
 
total newb said:
So now lets say you do the superduty tube swap job.
Axle $500 +/-
Tube swap $800
Truss $350 (est just looking @ rs $'s)
Balljoints $250
8x6.5" wheel hubs (ebay first pair i found) (2) $400
Ujoints $125
Gears $400
Brg kit & seals $300
Locker (detroit) $900
i have no idea wtf rotor to use so ?$300?
Total $4325.

So $200 less for a mixed pile and youre running your ass off to extra shops and trips and no have some hinky parts.

And neither of those include steering options
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The SD 60 probably doesn't need the $1k you're dropping into service parts and whoever's swapping your tubes will probablyt drill your bearings and rotors for an extra $100 or something.

Sure you can do U-joints and bearings and seals if it makes you feel good but odds are it doesn't "need" more than one of those items whereas it's nearly certain that the half century old garbage does.

So basically it's $1k cheaper unless you make dumb decisions for the sake of a disingenuous comparison in which case it's still $200 cheaper. :flipoff2:
 
arse_sidewards said:
The SD 60 probably doesn't need the $1k you're dropping into service parts and whoever's swapping your tubes will probablyt drill your bearings and rotors for an extra $100 or something.

Sure you can do U-joints and bearings and seals if it makes you feel good but odds are it doesn't "need" more than one of those items whereas it's nearly certain that the half century old garbage does.

So basically it's $1k cheaper unless you make dumb decisions for the sake of a disingenuous comparison in which case it's still $200 cheaper. :flipoff2:
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If you aren't doing the same 'upgrades and/or service' the cost comparison between the two is equivalent since you are going for 'new' vs not-new ;) That isn't saying the not-new doesn't have plenty of life.

The 8x6.5" conversion could be a bit cheaper if you are willing to do a little bit of DYI: there are templates out there for $20. OTOH, at least for the hubs, it is probably quicker/easier to just buy two that are drilled.

FWIW, there is also Welder Bill in Placerville who does d60 work. I don't have his number handy but it is out there. I can't give you a price because he does different styles of swaps: full retube vs reattach. He's also done a bunch of work for me:emb:
 
arse_sidewards said:
The SD 60 probably doesn't need the $1k you're dropping into service parts and whoever's swapping your tubes will probablyt drill your bearings and rotors for an extra $100 or something.

Sure you can do U-joints and bearings and seals if it makes you feel good but odds are it doesn't "need" more than one of those items whereas it's nearly certain that the half century old garbage does.

So basically it's $1k cheaper unless you make dumb decisions for the sake of a disingenuous comparison in which case it's still $200 cheaper. :flipoff2:
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Like i said, half assed pile of cobbled shit.

No one is gona run 3.73 in a 40" small blocked vehicle.
Youre gona spend "$100" to redrill used unit brgs Then find out after the fact theyre smoked?

At the same time, i found a rs 9" housing for $80 on fb, new, naked, 72" tune-tube.

So lets build that.
Housing, $800
Outers (based on my ford outer purchase) $500
Assembled 3rd (35spl) $1200
Shafts $1000
Perchs / shock mounts $120
Total $3620.

Well there ya go.




Djew use that bellhousing yet arse?
 
total newb said:
Like i said, half assed pile of cobbled shit.

No one is gona run 3.73 in a 40" small blocked vehicle.
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Luckily all sorts of 4.xx ratios are available and fairly prevalent. :flipoff2:

total newb said:
Youre gona spend "$100" to redrill used unit brgs Then find out after the fact theyre smoked?
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The junkyard selling you the SD60 usually isn't gonna list it as ready to roll if it comes in with crunchy bearings and/or seized U-joints

Contrast that wit the guy that's gonna sell you the D60 that the last guy pulled out of a farmer's field before shoving it under the project truck to make a roller before the guy you're buying from is parting out.

Buying ~20yo parts from junkyards that took them off recently tends to result in needing to replace less nickle and dim shit than buying ~40yo parts private party.

total newb said:
At the same time, i found a rs 9" housing for $80 on fb, new, naked, 72" tune-tube.

So lets build that.
Housing, $800
Outers (based on my ford outer purchase) $500
Assembled 3rd (35spl) $1200
Shafts $1000
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Yeah 9" is a decent option too
total newb said:
Djew use that bellhousing yet arse?
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No but it fits.
 
total newb said:
A dismantler wont pawn off a smoked/crashed/burnt axle as good?!
:lmao:
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They don't usually do that shit intentionally because a huge chunk of their business is repeat business with the local shops who they don't want to piss off.


Now, the LKQ three blocks over from the auction that sells to questionable Texans who just need something that'll grab in the one gear it take to get it on the trailer and out of there is a different story...

total newb said:
Im also assuming pull yourself yard because its cheaper or one you get from fb.
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If you by some miracle luck into one in a you-pull yard then of course it'll be cheap. But you gotta work for it.
 
Anyone on here is capable of buying a $600 superduty 60 thats all functional. And the fact that you most likely dont need to buy fancy shafts offsets the price to re-tube it.
 
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arse_sidewards said:
They don't usually do that shit intentionally because a huge chunk of their business is repeat business with the local shops who they don't want to piss off.


Now, the LKQ three blocks over from the auction that sells to questionable Texans who just need something that'll grab in the one gear it take to get it on the trailer and out of there is a different story...


If you by some miracle luck into one in a you-pull yard then of course it'll be cheap. But you gotta work for it.
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Work hard or pay money, thats always the game. Ive spouted repeatedly about the deals ive gotten because i get off my ass and hunt yards.

Out here those pos d60s are always in the yards. And they can stay there afaic.
 
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