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GLTHFJ60's Garage Chronicles

A little over half is now at depth. Gonna have 2.5-3" of compacted crusher on top of the rock/clay and it'll finish at about 12" of depth.

A bit concerning is the amount of water running under the existing slab during heavy rain, but that will be resolved when I finish a drainage/driveway project in front of the garage.

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Interesting foundation construction too. A few layers of bricks, then a row of cmu, then more bricks. Almost like they built the garage to be a whole lot lower originally, then changed their minds. Layer of crushed rock under the clay in the middle too, seems to be consistent throughout.

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Digging complete to 15" below top of existing slab. Backfill started. Planning to fill crusher to 12" below top of existing, then compact. Plastic, bar, dowels, then mud after compaction.

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Not going to have to worry about the base under the lift when done.

When is mud coming? Decide on a sub or DIY?

I know shit about 'crete, but it does have bubbles and need a way to remove them if you want a best results for drilling holes into
 
Haven't decided (or even quoted) the mud yet. Want to get everything squared away so that people can come see it if they need to for quoting. I'll get a few quotes.

Agree on the bubbles, especially for getting the keyed-in part of the caisson to fill up properly. I'll either buy a vevor concrete vibrator or rent one from my local sunbelt.
 
I wouldn't even think about subbing that. With a flat surface to screed off of and match on both sides, that's about as easy as you can get. Two people and a 2x4 can knock that out in a 10 minutes. Grab a decent trowel to finish it once you screed it out.
 
spin-screed it by welding a little stub onto the end of a piece of pipe and spinning it with a drill (or hole hawg).:lmao:



 
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I don't think I'm worried about being able to finish it, just want to see the pricing. If it's the same cost as ordering myself from the batch plant I'll pay someone to make it nearly glass smooth like the rest of the garage. If it's way cheaper to do it myself, then I will, and it'll still come out glass smooth.

Curious more than anything I guess.
 
Another snail's pace update. All the shoveling is done, and area somewhat cleaned up. Rented an electric jumping jack and pounded the fuck out of the crushed rock. Checked elevations with a transit, and everything is 12.25" all the way up to 13.5" depth, meaning it's correct.

Have the plastic, rebar and chairs. Going to work on getting the mat together over the next few days, hopefully start getting quotes by the end of the week.

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Another snail's pace update. All the shoveling is done, and area somewhat cleaned up. Rented an electric jumping jack and pounded the fuck out of the crushed rock. Checked elevations with a transit, and everything is 12.25" all the way up to 13.5" depth, meaning it's correct.

Have the plastic, rebar and chairs. Going to work on getting the mat together over the next few days, hopefully start getting quotes by the end of the week.

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Looks good and like an extra large version of the old "As seen on tv" shake weights!:lmao:
 
Looks good and like an extra large version of the old "As seen on tv" shake weights!:lmao:

Kinda, yeah. I've used gas powered jumping jacks a ton, but this was the first time using an electric one. Gotta say I liked it a lot. Same compaction force as the gas model too.
 
Finally ready for mud. About 400' of #4 rebar, including 21 dowels epoxied into the existing concrete, and 6m poly on the floor. Took about 425 rebar ties to tie it together. Semiauto rebar tie tool is the mvp.

This part was more work than expected. Quotes this week.

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Needs more triangulation...

I have a vevor vibrator you can use... I am driving to RDU thursday if you want I can bring it over.

Fuck yeah that would be awesome man. I was going to rent one. I'll send you a pm with my cell.
 
Mohawk spec is 4000psi concrete minimum. Looks like 4000psi is $206 a cubic yard and 5000psi is $214 a yard from a local batch plant. Any reason to not go with 5000psi concrete?
 
In other news, got a quote from a company to place and finish, for $2500 lol. Considering the concrete cost will be at or slightly below $1000, $1500 for labor is insane for a 6'x14' area.
 
In short, more portland in the mix (higher psi) means more chance of shrinkage and cracking.
You won't have a shrinkage and cracking with that short and thick pour no matter what you do.

Use the 5k. You won't regret it.
 
In other news, got a quote from a company to place and finish, for $2500 lol. Considering the concrete cost will be at or slightly below $1000, $1500 for labor is insane for a 6'x14' area.

Turn if your man card if you pay someone to do that. That's about as easy as it can possibly get as far as finishing concrete goes. Go buy a nice straight 2x4 that will span the width to screed it. Spend a couple hundred bucks on an amazon bull float and fresno if you want to get fancy, but you can probably get good enough results with a magnesium hand float and trowel.
 
Yeah, no way I'm going to pay for that. Have a couple of tools ordered and 5 yards of 5000psi, 4" slump concrete scheduled for 3pm on Friday.
 
71PA_Highboy thanks for lending your vibrator. Broke her in good today.

I'm very proud of how it came out. Couple of very small low spots but the overall level and smoothness is good I think. Probably could have troweled more but I was worried about overworking it. Also, the truck's chute was one section too short, so a friend and I had to hand shovel all of it off the floor, which wore us out early.

Behold.

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It's curing very well. I'm contemplating renting a floor sander to refine it further, but I'm not sure yet. Might just refine the two mild high spots that exist with a hand grinder. Idk yet. I'll take some pics with a straight edge in a few days.

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