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Frame swap time - 2008 6.7 QC LB SRW

Sandblasting the frame any day now. Will be coating with epoxy primer and Eastwood chassis black. Probably won't pull the trigger on the swap until December or early January.
 
I did not think it would be that much. I wonder if the natural gas cost is killing them.
 
I called a couple places about 6mo ago for something unrelated and got told to expect around $0.80-$1.30 per pound of object being galvanized. I'm sure it hasn't gotten any cheaper since then.
 
arse_sidewards said:
I called a couple places about 6mo ago for something unrelated and got told to expect around $0.80-$1.30 per pound of object being galvanized. I'm sure it hasn't gotten any cheaper since then.
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Most likely that does not include the cost of stripping and prep.

All of the blasting places are getting $1,500+ for a full size truck frame. I have a friend who runs a dustless blasting business doing the job for a 1/3 of that cost.
 
Eric said:
Most likely that does not include the cost of stripping and prep.

All of the blasting places are getting $1,500+ for a full size truck frame. I have a friend who runs a dustless blasting business doing the job for a 1/3 of that cost.
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It includes whatever the standard chemical dunk tank that gets done to every item is but doesn't include blasting or any additional prep beyond that.

I can't believe it's $1500 to blast a bare frame though.
 
arse_sidewards said:
I can't believe it's $1500 to blast a bare frame though.
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My buddy gets $1,000 - $1,500 all day long to blast frames and car bodies. And 3x-4x that to blast bottom paint off boats. This is a side job and he turns away more work than he accepts.
 
Eric said:
My buddy gets $1,000 - $1,500 all day long to blast frames and car bodies. And 3x-4x that to blast bottom paint off boats. This is a side job and he turns away more work than he accepts.
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I'm not saying people aren't paying it. You're a boat person. You know how stupid you are. :flipoff2:

I'm just saying it's an insane amount of money for the labor and operational costs involved. Hopefully Pablo shows up and starts running with a thinner margin. :laughing:
 
The paint and primer was $500. When its done i will have 2x more than i paid for the frame tied up in transportation, blasting, and paint. It's crazy.
 
Eric said:
The paint and primer was $500. When its done i will have 2x more than i paid for the frame tied up in transportation, blasting, and paint. It's crazy.
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I wonder if it would have been cheaper to get it dunked down south where energy costs aren't driven sky high by liberal swine and where there aren't a million boondoggle easy money highway projects competing for the galvanizing facility's time.
 
After sandblasting a frame myself, I am not sure 1500 is enough.
 
one thing about galvanizing - welding becomes...'dangerous'... - good call on 'primer/paint'.

Another thing - rust converter. After 7 years I'm going over my own trucks' frame again, which back then was cleaned (but not blasted), primered with Rustoleum rusty metal primer and painted. Now it has some surface rust showing up...but I'm taking 'advantage' of the rust and using the rust converters out there (Rustoleum and Locktite) to chemically convert it to something more stable, and then paint. I dunno, but from a long-term 'rust-prevention' standpoint...hell it may actually may be beneficial to let the frame rust (or the fresh floor panels or crossmembers or...), and then convert them. I'm giving my frame a very rough sanding and applying Rustoleum rust converter, then Rustoleum oil-based satin black top coat...and time will tell if doing this 'chemical' method will pan out.

- Sam
 
Mad Max said:
one thing about galvanizing - welding becomes...'dangerous'... - good call on 'primer/paint'.

Another thing - rust converter. After 7 years I'm going over my own trucks' frame again, which back then was cleaned (but not blasted), primered with Rustoleum rusty metal primer and painted. Now it has some surface rust showing up...but I'm taking 'advantage' of the rust and using the rust converters out there (Rustoleum and Locktite) to chemically convert it to something more stable, and then paint. I dunno, but from a long-term 'rust-prevention' standpoint...hell it may actually may be beneficial to let the frame rust (or the fresh floor panels or crossmembers or...), and then convert them. I'm giving my frame a very rough sanding and applying Rustoleum rust converter, then Rustoleum oil-based satin black top coat...and time will tell if doing this 'chemical' method will pan out.

- Sam
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Now imagine never having to do any of that work for 50yr.

That's why people love galvanizing.
 
time vs money I suppose. I maybe have a couple hundred bucks into my supplies (if that) and only had to travel to Home Depot, but sure galvanizing is great otherwise, just be real careful if you ever have to weld on it - have to grind off the coating...then how to recoat it? Anyway, interesting thread - looking forward to seeing the results.
 
The main reason im going with paint is appearance. Turns out paint over galvanize is queationable. The truck will never see road salt again either way.
 
Eric said:
The truck will never see road salt again either way.
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That’s what is happening with my 2016. Truck is perfect due to no salt and kept in a garage.
 
Mad Max said:
I'm giving my frame a very rough sanding and applying Rustoleum rust converter, then Rustoleum oil-based satin black top coat...and time will tell if doing this 'chemical' method will pan out.
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Give POR-15 or similar (such as Chassis Saver) a look.

I used POR-15 on my truck’s D60 and D80 about 7 years ago. 0 rust and look like it was painted yesterday after washed.

Prep work is key and time consuming.
 
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