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Frame swap time - 2008 6.7 QC LB SRW

Eric

Eric

RIP 10/6/2022
Joined
May 22, 2020
Member Number
1141
Messages
1,414
Loc
Exeter, RI
I had been planning to pull the bed then blast and paint the rear half of the frame on my 2008 Ram 3500 this spring. I thought everything was solid except for some surface crust. Wrong. I found some spots that are rusted through; mostly around the body/bed mounts. Ugh. Not a fan of frame patching.

Mopar actually produced complete replacement frames for a reasonable price (~$2,000). Unfortunately, the one I need (Quad Cab, 6.7 w/ MT, long bed, SRW) is no longer available (Mopar 68030882AB). I'm searching to see if any reseller has one in stock but I doubt it.

I found some on car-part.com; one in SC (no picture but claimed to be A condition) another in MN with picture of body that is falling apart, and a couple in Western Canada (fawk Canada).

I know this is a long shot but:

1.) Any Dodge gurus on here that might have a lead on the Mopar replacement 68030882AB?
2.) Any leads on companies that specialize in used Dodge frames? Ideally in the Northeast.

Thanks,
 
Your local dealer should be able to run a locate on that PN pretty easily if there's any still around. I'm not sure if you tried that yet.
 
Some quick research shows that 68030882AC may be the replacement part number, unfortunately it's discontinued as well. But hopefully, once you verify the new part number, it will help you to find what you're looking for.

Good luck... :beer:
 
Eric said:
Mopar actually produced complete replacement frames for a reasonable price (~$2,000). Unfortunately, the one I need (Quad Cab, 6.7 w/ MT, long bed, SRW) is no longer available (Mopar 68030882AB). I'm searching to see if any reseller has one in stock but I doubt it.
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Sounds like somebody is going to be buying a frame for an auto-trans truck and making a new trans mount.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Sounds like somebody is going to be buying a frame for an auto-trans truck and making a new trans mount.
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If necessary. But it looks like the same part # for both auto and manual. So maybe its just the bolt on crossmember that's different? Step 1 is actually finding a frame. Not easy because the only compatible years are 2008 and 2009.
 
Still struggling to find one. Place in SC has one that is there due to engine fire; not a crash and from GA so should be in decent shape. Been trying for two weeks to get the place in SC to send me photos. If it was good they would have cash today and I would be there to pick it up as soon as it was removed.
 
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PM me or post the last 8 digits of your VIN and I can confirm the frame part number and check it on the locator. It's a long shot as I know as a Parts Manager myself, the last thing I would want sitting around unsold is a couple grand in big ass truck frame, so finding an NOS one somewhere will be a challenge. I can also check the supercedence to see if it crosses to another number (other than the obvious AA number) which may cross to more than just two years.
 
The frame that fits your truck, according to the VIN and the Mopar Parts Manual is 55398983AC. Which should be for an '08-'09 DODGE RAM 3500 SLT QUAD CAB 4X4 4WD 160.5 wheelbase with the 6.7L Cummins and 6 speed manual. 68030882AB is for a dually 3500 of the same variety. Unfortunately, neither 55398983AC or 68030882AB are available now. Similarly unfortunate is the year range, which is just the two years, '08 and '09. Also, the 2500 frame is not the same. Now that doesn't mean that another year frame or even the 2500 frame wouldn't work, but there will be differences, steel thickness, frame dimensions, brackets, etc. It may be possible to swap in a frame that is not this exact part number, but you will more than likely have to make some modifications and a bit of fab work. I don't know that generation Ram as well as I know the '72-'93 trucks, so I can't really detail what the differences might be, so you will have to decide that for yourself. Good luck with it.
 
Thanks. I knew the oem replacement was a longshot. There is a yard in SC that has one but no luck convincing them to take my money. They wont take photos. I have a local guy on here willing to look at it but can't seem to get ok from "the manager" to let him check it out.

Checking fleabay and marketplace every other day.
 
Eric said:
Thanks. I knew the oem replacement was a longshot. There is a yard in SC that has one but no luck convincing them to take my money. They wont take photos. I have a local guy on here willing to look at it but can't seem to get ok from "the manager" to let him check it out.

Checking fleabay and marketplace every other day.
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this is Irate... build your own, document it. :flipoff2:
 
rockota said:
this is Irate... build your own, document it. :flipoff2:
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The scrap yard in Exeter RI charges very fair prices for used stuff. He should be able to find some acceptable C channel if he wants to go that route.
 
I built a frame for my current project. I'm about 5 years into the actual build. Looking to do a weekend frame swap this time.

frame-023.jpg
 
Gunwalls_Buckthorne said:
Sounds like it would be easier to fix what you have….
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Not doing any hacks. This is the last truck i will own. Finding a solid frame, dipping, and then galvanizing. Looking for a one week swap project. Dipping and galvanizing can take a couple months.
 
Eric said:
Not doing any hacks. This is the last truck i will own. Finding a solid frame, dipping, and then galvanizing. Looking for a one week swap project. Dipping and galvanizing can take a couple months.
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Let me know how much the hot dip galvanize winds up costing. I'm planning on the same for the Ranger frame and need to start mentally preparing myself if I'm going to get fucked out of that much money all at once. :laughing:
 
I would be careful with those sites. Most of them just copy the entire Mopar Parts Catalog onto the site with the last known pricing even though the part was cancelled decades ago. We frequently run into that situation on RamchargerCentral where people are looking for old NOS parts and a site will list it, only to refund their purchase and tell them the part is cancelled and not available. It's worth giving them a call just in case, but I wouldn't get my hopes up and order it or anything.
 
Worth a call. All the junkyards in CA that I've called will not ship to US at this time.
 
If all else are these year frames spliced together in sections like the earlier ones? I know it seemed like they had different front sections depending on motor choice, different mid section depending on cab choice then different rear section depending on bed choice. I wouldn't call it a hack to take a good section from a frame with the configuration you need and splicing it in before sending it off for the coatings. I know its not the bolt it in 1 piece solution your looking for but it would be better than patching the frame or not having a frame at all if you cant find a full replacement. The QCLB trucks are pretty rare to see anymore which is why I always tell my dad not to get rid of his 06.
 
350TacoZilla said:
If all else are these year frames spliced together in sections like the earlier ones?
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I think they are. I really only need the rear. But want to limit downtime to a week or so. Splicing a rear section onto the existing front will take longer because the process time for dipping is weeks. But ultimately going to do whatever it takes.
 
Duncan Galvanizing in Everett just quoted me $0.35-$.75/lb for bare/rusty/mill scale steel, no blasting or paint removal services.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Duncan Galvanizing in Everett just quoted me $0.35-$.75/lb for bare/rusty/mill scale steel, no blasting or paint removal services.
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Per pound of what? Friend of mine spent a couple thousand to get a PU cab blasted (locally) then dipped by a place in Taunton. I'm still looking for a place in the area that does dip rust removal which is the only way I know of to clean inside the rails.

After 3 weeks of trying, I finally got the junkyard in SC to quote me a price. Still can't convince them to take my money. :shaking:
 
Eric said:
Per pound of what? Friend of mine spent a couple thousand to get a PU cab blasted (locally) then dipped by a place in Taunton. I'm still looking for a place in the area that does dip rust removal which is the only way I know of to clean inside the rails.

After 3 weeks of trying, I finally got the junkyard in SC to quote me a price. Still can't convince them to take my money. :shaking:
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Per pound of the finished assembly.

My understanding is that rust shouldn't be an issue because they dunk it in a bunch of acid beforehand to remove rust and mill scale. It's paint, lacquer and welding flux that they have to mechanically remove (probably sandblast)
 
Does the JY not want to sell whole frames or what the deal? I cant think of why they wouldn't sell unless its a vin thing or if they just dont want to deal with shipping, but if you are going to take a trailer and pick it up how can they not take the $$.
 
350TacoZilla said:
Does the JY not want to sell whole frames or what the deal? I cant think of why they wouldn't sell
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Place is a shit show. Read the Google reviews. But the only place that has one within two-day road trip.
 
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Try and get a guy on the phone and figure out the intricacies, feel him out, maybe it's a vin thing, and you need to casually mention you'll bring a copy of your clean title and a pic of a rusty frame to show you don't have a numbers problem
Maybe they are lazy, or too busy to strip the remaining sellable pieces from it, ask them what the "as is" price is

Cash tips and bribes

I was trying to buy a van from an independent auto repair shop 100 miles away. I'd heard about it 3rd hand. My connection was some low guy in the chain. He told me the boss wanted 3500.
I told him I wanted to pay 2500. Or pay 2300 and a 200 cash tip. Dunno how he convinced his boss to take my lowball, but I never stepped foot in the shop, he gave top notch concierge service, met me at the curb, tires aired up, keys and title in hand, jump box, the whole deal:laughing:
Had it cold for a cold start, did my road test, helped me load it, 2300 in an envelope, 200 Irish handshake and done, very quick and easy with motivated help.


If the frame is 1200, get a guy on the phone and tell him you want it for 1200, and you'll play ball, it can be 1200 cash, it can be 800 to the shop and 400 tip, you don't give a fuck, you are ready to make it happen
 
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