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Frame swap time - 2008 6.7 QC LB SRW

Try and get a guy on the phone and figure out the intricacies, feel him out, maybe it's a vin thing, and you need to casually mention you'll bring a copy of your clean title and a pic of a rusty frame to show you don't have a numbers problem
Maybe they are lazy, or too busy to strip the remaining sellable pieces from it, ask them what the "as is" price is

Cash tips and bribes

. . .
It's a crazy broad running the place with her BFFs. Not a VIN thing. There is only one part # for '08-'09, 3500, quad cab, long bed, SRW.

I already tried bribing one of the crazy broads $100 to get me photos. Nothing. I've never dealt with anything like this before.
 
It's a crazy broad running the place with her BFFs. Not a VIN thing. There is only one part # for '08-'09, 3500, quad cab, long bed, SRW.

I already tried bribing one of the crazy broads $100 to get me photos. Nothing. I've never dealt with anything like this before.


Well then

"Who's a guy gotta fuck to get a frame around here? "

:laughing::laughing:
 
Maybe see if there is someone on here local to it and send them the money to snag it in person, that way you don't run all the way down and then run into problems.
 
Maybe see if there is someone on here local to it and send them the money to snag it in person, that way you don't run all the way down and then run into problems.
There is. I think he's under an hour away. So far he can't get inside either.
 
What if you were a bit flexible and used a 2500 frame? Or dusky frame? Are they very different?
 
What if you were a bit flexible and used a 2500 frame? Or dusky frame? Are they very different?
Finding info on the differences is difficult. I've learned that 3500 uses thicker steel, at least in some spots, and that the '06-'07 3500 frames will work if you swap body mounts

In the meantime one came up at a place in Missouri. Totally different buying experience. The guy returned my call in 15 minutes. Half the price quoted by the yard in SC.

Now I just need to figure out how to get it. Distance one way is 1,200 miles which is a bit far for a two way road trip. I'm not a distance driver.

Was thinking fly into Sprinfield then drive home with rental. Or maybe go with truck freight? Anybody got experience with shipping a frame?
 
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I’d be hesitant to ship it with a ltl carrier. Unless it’s on the mother of all skids, by the time it gets to you it’s going to be fucked up. Body mounts tweaked, maybe even the frame horns. It’s going to get handled by mouth breathers operating an 8000lb forklift with very little regard for what they are smashing into.
Sure, but the risk of any one item getting beat up is still pretty damn low.
 
Finding info on the differences is difficult. I've learned that 3500 uses thicker steel, at least in some spots, and that the '06-'07 3500 frames will work if you swap body mounts

In the meantime one came up at a place in Missouri. Totally different buying experience. The guy returned my call in 15 minutes. Half the price quoted by the yard in SC.

Now I just need to figure out how to get it. Distance one way is 1,200 miles which is a bit far for a two way road trip. I'm not a distance driver.

Was thinking fly into Sprinfield then drive home with rental. Or maybe go with truck freight? Anybody got experience with shipping a frame?
Any forum members in MO you could pay to pick it up and meet you halfway?
 
:lmao::lmao::lmao:

They all get beat up. Nice 40x48 standard pallets take it pretty damn well. The uglier the freight gets, the more it gets beat on. And a loose bare frame is about as ugly as you can get. Even with neon stickers with arrows pointing to where to stick the forks, morons still manage to fuck shit up. Now imagine a short bus riding, paste eating, scooby do loving window licker trying to figure out where to stick his forks to move that frame with the least amount of effort on his part. And then when he finally picks it up, he’s going to proceed to smash it into everything even remotely nearby because he’s confused and scared by the long thing and unable to drive in a straight line on his best day.

You or I are capable of moving a frame with a forklift without hurting it. But we aren’t the lowest common denominator who is going to be the one doing it.
I figured he'd strap it to a pallet.

Give them a pallet to put the forks in and they probably won't fuck it up too bad even if it over-hangs.
 
Its looking like a 4 day 2-way road trip. One way rentals are either unobtainium or stupid expensive and I'd need a 24' box truck to fit the frame inside. Hotshots are clocking in at 2x-3x what I paid for the frame in the first place. I can rent a 3/4 ton from Enterprise for under $600 and use my own car hauler. Yippee ki yay.
 
Cheap red eye flight, $500 90's buick and maybe $50 in straps and 4x4's strap the bastard to the roof and hit rd. get home and sell a fairly rust free car for $500 with dents on roof.
 
Cheap red eye flight, $500 90's buick and maybe $50 in straps and 4x4's strap the bastard to the roof and hit rd. get home and sell a fairly rust free car for $500 with dents on roof.
The for sale ad MUST include pictures of the adventure



Oh, find an early 90s town car limo ftmfw:smokin:

Somebody on the old board, something k5 maybe road tripped one, pretty epic
 
East bound and down. Very satisfied. Rock solid for $800.

Resized_20220520_084010.jpeg
 
OK. Trucking is out. LOL.
It’s a truck frame, not a Faberge Egg. Have them send it insured. Edit: saw I am too late. Glad you found something. Fill up the torches, get some Kroil and have fun.
 
Inside the rails looks to be solid factory paint. No signs of any rust on the inside. I'm leading toward having it dipped in acid and hot galvanized but another option is to blast and paint the outside then cover the inside with something like fluid film or the eastwood frame paint.
 
Find someone that uses this:

 
Find someone that uses this:

Thanks. I've heard great things about this product. Was not sure about the actual name. I had just heard that the "New Hampshire" oil is good.
 
If the frame is gone... how bad is the rest of sheetmetal and fasteners
Tub and bed are mint. Literally every piece of skin has been replaced in the last 2 1/2 years courtesy of Allstate. Drivetrain just turned 100k.

I'll probably fire up a mini build thread once I get rolling on this project.
 
Galvanize that bitch.

You've seen how boat trailers last after being dipped in salt.
 
Another vote for galvanize. No matter how much stuff you pump into the frame rails, it will eventually gather dirt/crud and harbor salt/brine and start rusting out.
 
I would look into getting all new brake, fuel lines gas tank straps before starting. Really just spend so time under the truck looking things over. Easier to bolt on new parts than to fight getting old parts off.
 
^ true. I know in a perfect world with the funds now would be the time to refresh everything really, maybe even add aftermarket tank if you were in market for one. I have wanted to do stainless lines on my vehicles for years due to replacing rusty crap.... but $10 for one new line to get something back on rd is easier pill to swallow than hundreds and tearing them all out. You are atleast going to have benefit of needing to start with nothing anyhow so might be easier to justify the upfront cost.
 
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