YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
You know what I mean.
That you have to shit up every thread bitching about CA or Toyotas?
You know what I mean.
Seems like it. I wish he would fuck off already.That you have to shit up every thread bitching about CA or Toyotas?
Shortened samurai intermediate but with the slip yoke from the tracker rear DS on it.Looks like a fun rig ya got there. I'm wanting to use a Sami tcase for my build that's still in the planning phase, what did you use for the intermediate shaft?
Yes, the green one was a 2wd I converted to 4wd. I started with a 2wd on purpose specifically, with putting a samurai transfer case in it from the get go. I did a good job on it, just started with the wrong car. 1.6 8V with the 3 speed auto. If it would have been a 16V to start with I’d probably still have it. I have a hate/hate relationship with 8V’s, no love to begin with. After I found and built my white 4 door the perfect 16V 3 speed auto 2wd turned just a bit too late.Good to know, thanks. 2wd tranny?
4 door has the kick case with 4.24’s. It crawls great but leaves a lot to be desired on pavement. I’d rather have a samurai case for the high range reduction. FleshEater found me a samurai case and driveshafts but you can’t just stick a samurai case behind a 5 speed like you can the automatic. Still trying to decide what to doLooking back over this thread, the 4 door uses the kick case? Did you end up with 4.24s in it? Having had them both for some time, do you think it is adequate, or would you do the sami case again?
4 door has the kick case with 4.24’s. It crawls great but leaves a lot to be desired on pavement. I’d rather have a samurai case for the high range reduction. FleshEater found me a samurai case and driveshafts but you can’t just stick a samurai case behind a 5 speed like you can the automatic. Still trying to decide what to do
That’s why I posted this thread asking about them.Doubler?
I'll post detailed pictures of the Toyota case doubler adapter once I get it torn down to put it behind my 4 speed auto. It might give you some ideas at least 🤷That’s why I posted this thread asking about them.
Track kick doublers? Anyone still making them?
Does anyone still make kick/kick doublers? What about kick/samurai? I don’t want to make my own, need to entertain an extra gear option in a sidekick/tracker that I don’t to butcher up things like the floor.irate4x4.com
I need to find a doubler like the one 2big bronco scored. I don’t have time to build my own. I’ll be hitting you up for some 4.62’s if I can figure out how to get a samurai case mated to my 5 speed.
many days/weeks have you been working on it?I'll post detailed pictures of the Toyota case doubler adapter once I get it torn down to put it behind my 4 speed auto. It might give you some ideas at least 🤷
That’s why I posted this thread asking about them.
Track kick doublers? Anyone still making them?
Does anyone still make kick/kick doublers? What about kick/samurai? I don’t want to make my own, need to entertain an extra gear option in a sidekick/tracker that I don’t to butcher up things like the floor.irate4x4.com
I need to find a doubler like the one 2big bronco scored. I don’t have time to build my own. I’ll be hitting you up for some 4.62’s if I can figure out how to get a samurai case mated to my 5 speed.
I have 4.88’s snd maybe those will be the ticket. I want to run 34 or 35” UTV tires on it but only if I can get the gearing exactly where I want it.All I currently have is a kick rear 4.62, then a pair of 4.88s. All is out of a 2nd gen so there is no provision for your rear upper link on the 3rd. May make more sense to just send the r&p's. I'd be fine with swapping for you 5.12s if you get to that point.
Did you dig further into the doubler that points north was involved with?
I have 4.88’s snd maybe those will be the ticket. I want to run 34 or 35” UTV tires on it but only if I can get the gearing exactly where I want it.
And no, because I can’t weld aluminum.
Either you misremember what I said or I’m misrepresenting my issue. I’m trying to come at my problem from two different directions and maybe we’re getting those things mixed up.I guess it depends on the low gear set you get. If you are 100% happy with 4.24. Stock gears in both cases would be fine. Which would probably work well with the 5.12s. Obviously you know the deal with the lower Sami gears getting lower high. Also, I remember you telling me that I would be fine with 4.88s, 6.4s, no OD and 35s. Here you are saying it will be too low with a damn OD trans
I wonder how dumb running the 4.24s in front of the Sami case would be?
They don't offer an exchange on the cases? Borrow/rent spool gun? Take it to a boat shop?
Mah bad, I thought you thought I was leading you astray. I want 7.20:1 axle gears for 30 inch tires 😳. 8:00’s for 35’s 😳 Tell that to people who think 4.10’s are the end all be all. In my crawler I’m going from 5.38’s to 6.20’s and throwing away overdrive.That part of my comment was mostly a joke
I get what you're trying to do.
Mah bad, I thought you thought I was leading you astray. I want 7.20:1 axle gears for 30 inch tires 😳. 8:00’s for 35’s 😳 Tell that to people who think 4.10’s are the end all be all. In my crawler I’m going from 5.38’s to 6.20’s and throwing away overdrive.
Our big race car has 700 hp, 1.4:1 high range in the hero t-case and 5.40’s for 37” tires. So 7.56:1 effective axle ratio. Wouldn’t change it a bit. That’s a $5,000 dollar t-case though, a little out of the trackers budget.Well when you have 5.12s and 26" tires stock and it's not even great it's kinda too bad that 1.5 box didn't take off. But I get why it didn't. I have wondered how a stock case would like running in low on the highway. I'd love a stock kick case to Toyota case adapter for that reason.
I'm a big fan of deep axle gearing. It's stupid how everyone thinks 5.38s are enough for any rig with big tires. I've been curious about how a "totally gutless" 3.8 JK would be with 6.xx or 7.xx gears. They have a tall OD in the auto and guys say 5.38s are good for 35s. Under gearing might make them actually not bad.
In rc crawlers, there are worm drive axles that are stupid low, like 20:1 iirc. One big benifit is there is no torque twist. I'd like to see a Moon buggy with some H1 portals and 7.xx 3rds. As well as one with the front over driven, which is big in rc crawlers.
Not related to your build, but
Our big race car has 700 hp, 1.4:1 high range in the hero t-case and 5.40’s for 37” tires. So 7.56:1 effective axle ratio. Wouldn’t change it a bit. That’s a $5,000 dollar t-case though, a little out of the trackers budget.
I always wondered. Everyone hated the 4 cylinder YJ’s and TJ’s but they came with terrible gearing like 3.31’s and 3.55’s. If they had come with 5.13’s like a zuk they may have been fun like a 20R yota with 4.30’s.
My brother in law has 33x12.50s on 10 inch rims with the altered ego stuff. Most of his rubbing issues are from width so id assume you could get away with narrow sxs 33s or 35s fairly easyEither you misremember what I said or I’m misrepresenting my issue. I’m trying to come at my problem from two different directions and maybe we’re getting those things mixed up.
If I had what you have laying around available to me. I would run the 2.0 3 speed auto 6.4’s 4.88’s/5.12’s with 35’s. I stand by that statement from my previous experience.
First: I either need to install a samurai transfer case or much lower diff gears, just to keep running the 30” tires I’m already running. My high range is grossly inadequate as I have been using it for the last 5 years. 4th is almost unusable, 5th doesn’t exist.
Second: On top of that I have the desire to get it on much bigger tires while staying IFS. That alone is one big physical hurdle on top of a big financial hurdle by itself. Then diffs and gearing are an additional physical and financial burden. Those two burdens put together begin to make the project not make sense.
So I’m also trying to work out a compromise that I can live with that fixes my usability issue. Without spending crazy money on it and without having it spend a year or more on jack stands. So I’m walking a lot circles looking at what I can live with. Trying to fix my real rock crawler. I’m still racing ultra4 in two classes with two race cars we gotta keep 100% all the time. Work 12 hour days in the oilfield. Have a family etc.
I have Altered Ego coil springs and a-arms coming that are supposed to make it fit 32’s. I think I could live with it on 32’s with a samurai transfer case with 4.9’s. A 4.9 case and 4.62 diff gears would get me exactly where I want to be for 32’s. A 4.9 case snd 5.12’s put me exactly where I’d want to be for 35’s. Pulling 5.12’s for 4.88’s doesn’t make much sense they’re so close together.
Edit: so I’m not worried about it being to low geared to use it. I already can’t go highway speed because I’m horsepowered out. Might as well be out of gear instead.
Excellent! What does he have for gearing in it?Somehow hes broken a rear shaft and never a front cv and ive seen him do things that he shouldnt have been able to.
Lighter heavy equipment is routinely in the 20:1 overall axle ratio range if that's what you're looking for.In rc crawlers, there are worm drive axles that are stupid low, like 20:1 iirc. One big benifit is there is no torque twist. I'd like to see a Moon buggy with some H1 portals and 7.xx 3rds. As well as one with the front over driven, which is big in rc crawlers.
Lighter heavy equipment is routinely in the 20:1 overall axle ratio range if that's what you're looking for.
Its a 16v auto with stock gears in the axles and a 4-1 sidekick case. Its pretty gutless on the street but will keep up with traffic and does decent in low because of the auto.Excellent! What does he have for gearing in it?
Either you misremember what I said or I’m misrepresenting my issue. I’m trying to come at my problem from two different directions and maybe we’re getting those things mixed up.
If I had what you have laying around available to me. I would run the 2.0 3 speed auto 6.4’s 4.88’s/5.12’s with 35’s. I stand by that statement from my previous experience.
First: I either need to install a samurai transfer case or much lower diff gears, just to keep running the 30” tires I’m already running. My high range is grossly inadequate as I have been using it for the last 5 years. 4th is almost unusable, 5th doesn’t exist.
Second: On top of that I have the desire to get it on much bigger tires while staying IFS. That alone is one big physical hurdle on top of a big financial hurdle by itself. Then diffs and gearing are an additional physical and financial burden. Those two burdens put together begin to make the project not make sense.
So I’m also trying to work out a compromise that I can live with that fixes my usability issue. Without spending crazy money on it and without having it spend a year or more on jack stands. So I’m walking a lot circles looking at what I can live with. Trying to fix my real rock crawler. I’m still racing ultra4 in two classes with two race cars we gotta keep 100% all the time. Work 12 hour days in the oilfield. Have a family etc.
I have Altered Ego coil springs and a-arms coming that are supposed to make it fit 32’s. I think I could live with it on 32’s with a samurai transfer case with 4.9’s. A 4.9 case and 4.62 diff gears would get me exactly where I want to be for 32’s. A 4.9 case snd 5.12’s put me exactly where I’d want to be for 35’s. Pulling 5.12’s for 4.88’s doesn’t make much sense they’re so close together.
Edit: so I’m not worried about it being to low geared to use it. I already can’t go highway speed because I’m horsepowered out. Might as well be out of gear instead.
With the upgraded front suspension, appropriate gearing and 35s, it sounds like a blast, esp with a 2.0l. I am keeping my eyes out for another one to pick up. I had a 2dr previously. Like the 4dr for the room, just wish it could go topless.
I do have suspicion that the front diff, locked wouldnt last on 35s. Even with a steel diff, Im not sure.