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arse_sidewards
Contrary to everything
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 71
- Messages
- 7,829
I don't even run a timing cover on my engines.
2big bronco
Og irate
It should practically fall off. I pull the radiator out of convience and to keep from getting pissed off. Even pulling the radiator its possible to do the timing belt and water pump in an hour. If you give yourself 2 or 3 its gravy.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
I don’t think any special tools are needed on these unless swapping like P/S pulleys or maybe an alternator pulley.
Even the top is simple. Easier with a seal puller, but can be done without.
Even the top is simple. Easier with a seal puller, but can be done without.
Thanks guys. I had a whole summer planned of 4 wheeling with my boy in it. The pile of rzr is blocking the whole garage so I’m probably going to have to do this repair in the driveway.
Byro
Lurkin’
Living in the rust belt you come up with “advanced techniques” for shit boxes.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
My white privilege is showingIt's good to see how the other half lives every now and then
What I failed to work into the lamenting you quoted. Is that pile of shit yard saled rzr is in 1000 pieces for at least another month draining me of my will to live and all my and time.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
My white privilege is showing
What I failed to work into the lamenting you quoted. Is that pile of shit yard saled rzr is in 1000 pieces for at least another month draining me of my will to live and all my and time.
I tore down my Yamaha one time. That was pretty much killed any enthusiasm I had for SXS’s. Working with all that plastic is miserable.
I’ve had this rzr torn apart a bunch but this time is different. Rolled it 4 times full yard sale, ruined all the suspension parts. I had to throw away 100% of the right rear corner, knocked the center completely out of that wheel. Most of my plastic is gone, pretty much just a front clip.
arse_sidewards
Contrary to everything
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 71
- Messages
- 7,829
A lot of pullets that just fall off where you live don't anywhere else.
Like tacking the cam pulleys with the brass brazing rod and then re-cutting a much deeper timing mark in the brass so you can still time it when the pulley is inevitably pitted.
2big bronco
Og irate
Im sure someone has video...I’ve had this rzr torn apart a bunch but this time is different. Rolled it 4 times full yard sale, ruined all the suspension parts. I had to throw away 100% of the right rear corner, knocked the center completely out of that wheel. Most of my plastic is gone, pretty much just a front clip.
There’s a link to the vid in the sxs page. The last time I saw you was 10 minutes before I scattered it
It should get a whole new chassis. I’m going straighten this one out though because new chassis’s are way overpriced for what they actually are.
For what it weighs it’s actually pretty well braced and pretty tough. But I squarely hit a several thousand pound loader tire with the side wall of that right rear tire at about 50 mph. It slammed the whole car onto the cage right above my head directly on the span between the A and B pillar. Thankfully the spindly little suspension links folded so it only marginally bent the rear suspension mounting points. I already have the rear of the chassis repaired. I just need to straighten the horizontal tube above my head and the front clip area where the front bumper attaches to it. Thankfully it didn’t make trapezoids out of squares anywhere, it just bent individual spans here and there.
Well I got myself some good news and some bad news. Good news was I had, in fact changed the water pump timing belt and idler. I did it when I had to put a new alternator in. Bad news was that wasn’t the problem, it hadn’t jumped time and it still runs like dog shit. Getting worse actually.
My mistake on thinking it had jumped time was because I forgot that you have to put the timing light on the number 4 spark plug wire not #1 like everything else in the world.
So my ignition is titties. It sparks all 4 holes all the time even when it’s misfiring. It’s timed right both cam and distributor. Valves are perfect, no clatter none right. On acceleration it runs as strong as it ever has, I just can’t lug it around at all, it’ll just stall out. I got a code reader. Only showing two codes, P0300 random misfire. P0113 high intake temp sensor reading. This thing is 100% complete and stock, still has the catalytic converter the evap canister. What should I check next. I can’t find any vacuum leaks. This is seriously pissing me off.
My mistake on thinking it had jumped time was because I forgot that you have to put the timing light on the number 4 spark plug wire not #1 like everything else in the world.
So my ignition is titties. It sparks all 4 holes all the time even when it’s misfiring. It’s timed right both cam and distributor. Valves are perfect, no clatter none right. On acceleration it runs as strong as it ever has, I just can’t lug it around at all, it’ll just stall out. I got a code reader. Only showing two codes, P0300 random misfire. P0113 high intake temp sensor reading. This thing is 100% complete and stock, still has the catalytic converter the evap canister. What should I check next. I can’t find any vacuum leaks. This is seriously pissing me off.
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FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
I usually go to Suzuki forum for this stuff. Those eat, sleep, breathe Geos.
EGR tests totally perfect. I can kill it by opening the EGR valve manually.
Spent some time pulling vacuum lines off and putting vac caps on instead. Can’t isolate a vacuum leak yet. I can live scan with my code reader. The MAP sensor reading seams completely wrong. I cleared the code for the intake air temp sensor and drove it around tonight. Live scan showed my IAT at a steady 90°. The CEL never came back on after clearing codes and driving it for 2 hours. The scanner shows the random misfire code now but the car isn’t flagging it yet.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Tried a can of starting fluid or unlit propane torch to the whole intake area to eliminate gasket leaks?
Yep, tried the starting fluid and I get no change hosing stuff down.
I cleared that code and watched the intake air temp live. 89° steady and the code never came back
I haven’t figured out how yet. These don’t have a schrader valve on the fuel rail that my pressure gauge would hook to. I will find a way to check it but it’s low on my radar because it runs so good and strong. Y’all are plenty helpful. Every question you ask gives me something to test or check or eliminate from the potential list of things that could be wrong.
The hardest things to check the condition of are the injectors and will be the last thing I look at. To get them out means pulling the whole intake manifold off. I ordered a MAP and IAT sensor as well as a full intake manifold gasket set. All signs are pointing to a vacuum leak, I just can’t pinpoint it.
So my MAP sensor is completely screwed up. I have mechanical vacuum gauge and my MAP reads completely wrong, bounces all over the place. According to the internet, when the MAP sensor says vacuum drops the EGR opens. I can’t tell if that’s what’s causing the misfire. I ordered a new MAP sensor from rock auto, it showed up and is also no good. Going to have send it back and get another one.
Any one ever done a full evap and emissions delete on a 16V? And kept the EFI? I don’t care about a check engine light. Car has 155K on the odo, it doesn’t have to pass inspection. I’m ready to start deleting shit. Problem is most likely a vacuum leak, because making a vacuum leak doesn’t make it worse at all.
Any one ever done a full evap and emissions delete on a 16V? And kept the EFI? I don’t care about a check engine light. Car has 155K on the odo, it doesn’t have to pass inspection. I’m ready to start deleting shit. Problem is most likely a vacuum leak, because making a vacuum leak doesn’t make it worse at all.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
I’ll be watching this if it can be done.
It’d be nice to eliminate some junk. If I understand this mid-80’s to 90’s emission stuff correctly, it’s basically just burning off fumes with it. I don’t see why a lot of it can’t be deleted and still maintain the EFI.