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***Fail***

I realize the new car market may be an abstract concept to you but, believe it or not, auto makers constantly shittify assemblies to encheapenate them to remain cost-competitive. The euphemism commonly used for this inferiorizing process is "value engineering". The folks that bought the vehicle new and didn't have to think about that hose clamp for the entire time they owned it got their value out of it.

Between lower part cost, faster assembly time, fewer assembly line tools requiring calibration, and lower instance of post-sale leaks (which would add warranty cost), that constant-tension clamp & similar "innovations" made that car ~$500 cheaper to produce than the same product using 20 year older technologies. I hope you, being a bona-fide cheapass, can appreciate that paying $500 less for a car would leave you budgetary room to replace all the hose clamps with shiny new stainless ones from VatoZone if you really wanted to :flipoff2:
I know how it works. But it's still overall an inferior result/product. The fact that the goal was to make more room in the budget to tolerate UAW scumbaggery or some other questionable thing doesn't make it somehow a success.

I'd say you should be ashamed of yourself for being so stupid as to peddle that shit but we all know you don't believe what you're spewing you're just pretending to be stupid acting like a CA expat for the sake of disagreement. :flipoff2:
 
I know how it works. But it's still overall an inferior result/product.
. . . and you're not the paying customer, so your opinion means . . . approximately . . . dick :laughing:

Given that your opinion is effectively moot vis-à-vis new automobiles, I chose to skip the rest of your bullshit response :flipoff2:


EDIT: you ignorant fuck :laughing:
 
I realize the new car market may be an abstract concept to you but, believe it or not, auto makers constantly shittify assemblies to encheapenate them to remain cost-competitive. The euphemism commonly used for this inferiorizing process is "value engineering". The folks that bought the vehicle new and didn't have to think about that hose clamp for the entire time they owned it got their value out of it.

Between lower part cost, faster assembly time, fewer assembly line tools requiring calibration, and lower instance of post-sale leaks (which would add warranty cost), that constant-tension clamp & similar "innovations" made that car ~$500 cheaper to produce than the same product using 20 year older technologies. I hope you, being a bona-fide cheapass, can appreciate that paying $500 less for a car would leave you budgetary room to replace all the hose clamps with shiny new stainless ones from VatoZone if you really wanted to :flipoff2:
Freightliner has started using plastic collars that you have to cut off when you need to pull a hose, change a thermostat, or swap a busted radiator.


I mean, I get it. Those plastic collars have 300k miles on em....but damn.
 
auto makers constantly shittify assemblies to encheapenate them to remain cost-competitive.

:lmao:

Subaru uses those damn one time use clamps you have to cut off. Good thing they’re on the valve cover, something you never have to take off. :flipoff:

Not the generation I worry about! I'm still with Arse's pickle bails. I tried to swap out to worm drive, and they leaked. After 5 tightenings over a week, I went back to wire.
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Which still begs the question why the difference in ratio. I get that you're not dealing in 30yo cars so that biases things a bit but still, you'd think if anyone were fucking up the worm gear clamps it'd be the shade tree guys like me and not the supposedly reputable professionals like yourself.

Maybe put down the 1/4 rattle gun and your worm clamps will work better.:flipoff2:
have you ever installed a brand new hose that has never been smushed before?

they do loosen up a li'l over time until they settle in
 
dunno bro, happens all the time, doesn't even help to crank clamps down retard tight initially
I don't do retard tight because I'm afraid of popping the stamped sheet-metal. I do "really tight" with a screwdriver or "not very right" with my 1/4 stubby ratchet.

I have NEVER had a worm gear clamp leak (except when knowingly using doing shit wrong). IDK, maybe I just have the magic touch. :laughing:
 
I don't do retard tight because I'm afraid of popping the stamped sheet-metal. I do "really tight" with a screwdriver or "not very right" with my 1/4 stubby ratchet.

I have NEVER had a worm gear clamp leak (except when knowingly using doing shit wrong). IDK, maybe I just have the magic touch. :laughing:
Go check the torque on them now, even if you don’t admit it, I bet that some of them are loose.
 
I don't do retard tight because I'm afraid of popping the stamped sheet-metal. I do "really tight" with a screwdriver or "not very right" with my 1/4 stubby ratchet.

I have NEVER had a worm gear clamp leak (except when knowingly using doing shit wrong). IDK, maybe I just have the magic touch. :laughing:

Ditto, I've never once in my entire life thus far, had to go back and retighten a worm clamp.
 
i've retightened worm clamps after heat cycles.

I've also had constant tension clamps break from rust.

if you all would stop driving poverty shit you'd have stainless oeticker style clamps from the factory
:flipoff2:
 
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Freightliner has started using plastic collars that you have to cut off when you need to pull a hose, change a thermostat, or swap a busted radiator.


I mean, I get it. Those plastic collars have 300k miles on em....but damn.
Been doing that for eons...Gates makes them, "freeze clamps"...mostly saw Schnieder trucks spec'd with them.
Field replacement are heat shrink.
Theres a fancy cutter youre supposed to use to remove them, but I'd only seen two in real life, most techs just went after them with whatever sharp thing they had...no biggie if you were replacing the hose anyway. 99% of the time they got replaced with a standard clamp.
 
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