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engineering that makes you want to punch babies.

You can't get to the bottom bolt without at least getting the inner fender out of the way. I'm no engineer but I can figure out the easiest way to do something.:flipoff2: Especially when Its for me, not to sell. I'll blame youtube too for having a video called "the easy way to do it".:laughing:
 
HillbillyDeluxe said:
Whatever fucktard engineer and/or designer at GM decided to stick the evap core in the dash and make it removable only by taking apart the dash.

Im using a hack method of cutting the airbox and wouldn't you know it, instead of being able to just slide the fucking thing out, there are 2 little nubs hanging down that make pulling it out a mf'er.

And fuck every other car maker who does the same thing.
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All vehicles are built around the HVAC box. Heater or Evap = dash comes out. I just did this job on a Jeep TJ; hate to say it, but fucking youtube was my friend.
 
TRINDU said:
I think the real fail here is adding coolant to a new(er) truck. Why else would you remove it from a clear tank?
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Don't quote me but I don't think there is enough surge tank capacity for Texas weather. 20's in the morning is "coolant low" but at operating temp it is at Full Hot.

Or very slow cold water leak I have not found, or EGR cooler leak. :homer:
 
Step Mom's '05 Pontiac POS, 2.2L: thermostat:

firewall side, UNDERNEATH the fucking exhaust manifold.

:mad3:
 
HillbillyDeluxe said:
Whatever fucktard engineer and/or designer at GM decided to stick the evap core in the dash and make it removable only by taking apart the dash.

Im using a hack method of cutting the airbox and wouldn't you know it, instead of being able to just slide the fucking thing out, there are 2 little nubs hanging down that make pulling it out a mf'er.

And fuck every other car maker who does the same thing.
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About the same for a heater core on a 99 Grand Cherokee...the whole fucking dash has to come out :mad3:
 
2001-2005 Honda Civic front control arm bushings.
The rear bushing is on a horizontal plane and that is great.
The front bushing is on a vertical plane. It’s called a “compliance bushing”.
The front bushing explodes the rubber after four years.
Fuck those engineers that designed that shit!!!:mad3:
Thankfully, Energy Suspension made solid poly bushings that live forever.:smokin:
 
Bamajeeper said:
2001-2005 Honda Civic front control arm bushings.
The rear bushing is on a horizontal plane and that is great.
The front bushing is on a vertical plane. It’s called a “compliance bushing”.
The front bushing explodes the rubber after four years.
Fuck those engineers that designed that shit!!!:mad3:
Thankfully, Energy Suspension made solid poly bushings that live forever.:smokin:
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sounds like they copied volvo.
25K miles and you got's the bumpsteer again because the front torsion bushing is wasted.

but at least the heater core comes out of the center stack without removing the dash.
 
GM crossover headlights - terrain/ equinox/ srx
only certain trim levels have access hatches in the fender liners to get at the back of the headlight housings. Super easy job once you pull the tire and pull the fender liner just to change a bulb. I'm sure you could only pull the liner halfway out and work around it but I'm not doing that when its crusted in salt.
 
Ditchrunner said:
Boy they fucked that up in 97 though.
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A 99 supercrew was the last one I did, it not awful but every fastener had me cursing that clusterfuck, at the same time I've put off changing the heater core on my pos ranger for over year. It literally takes ten min but meh, I'll do it later.
 
Filthy McChevy said:
You can't get to the bottom bolt without at least getting the inner fender out of the way. I'm no engineer but I can figure out the easiest way to do something.:flipoff2: Especially when Its for me, not to sell. I'll blame youtube too for having a video called "the easy way to do it".:laughing:
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Well i did mine just fine with taking the fender out, but again i can only speak for non a/c. You never said which yours was.
 
Filthy McChevy said:
On the 72 Chevy I bought last year the inner fender has to be taken off to get to the bottom bolts on the housing to swao out the heater core, since I got the truck with an extra heater core box and the 50 year old inner wheelwell bolts were rusted in place I cut the heater box on the truck off around where the heater core is and pulled the leaky one and used T Rex duct tape I got as a gift to put the little cap I cut off back on. Of course the interior mounting bracket didn't work right either because the aftermarket heater core was slighty different and it wasn't easy to get to through my new smaller opening than when the whole thing is off so I had to reweld the screws from innies to outies. Mission accomplished. :laughing:
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This was my experience aswell. It gets increasingly easier to change heater cores form the late 60s to early 90s.
 
Shortly after buying an '88 ford as a winter beater, the heater core went out. Never before was I so happy to do this job. :laughing:

DSC03101.JPG



Now, the aluminum and plastic top hat locking hubs, those are garbage... And the real pain is that to swap them out, basically requires a whole new front axle. :shaking:

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toocheaptosmoke said:
Shortly after buying an '88 ford as a winter beater, the heater core went out. Never before was I so happy to do this job. :laughing:

DSC03101.JPG



Now, the aluminum and plastic top hat locking hubs, those are garbage... And the real pain is that to swap them out, basically requires a whole new front axle. :shaking:

20211128_124319x.jpg
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not a bad job from the comfort of the front seat in my 89. God those hubs were aweful, 87 model year only werent they?

superduty heater core not bad either.
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97-04 F150 make me want to punch babies, i deleted the pics from that.
 
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Levigarrett76 said:
not a bad job from the comfort of the front seat in my 89. God those hubs were aweful, 87 model year only werent they?

superduty heater core not bad either.
99-04 make me want to punch babies, i deleted the pics from that.
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what year SD is the easy one?
iirc the '13ish ones needed the dash out
 
Mr. Mindless said:
GM crossover headlights - terrain/ equinox/ srx
only certain trim levels have access hatches in the fender liners to get at the back of the headlight housings. Super easy job once you pull the tire and pull the fender liner just to change a bulb. I'm sure you could only pull the liner halfway out and work around it but I'm not doing that when its crusted in salt.
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Never thought the headlights were a problem on the equinox. 3 screws and 5 minutes to change a headlight. Why do you need a jack?
 
ckupq said:
Never thought the headlights were a problem on the equinox. 3 screws and 5 minutes to change a headlight. Why do you need a jack?
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only on some trim levels, apparently. no access panel in the fender liner at all. it's solid all the way around. I can't fathom why they'd have 2 options for fender liners. This is a '14 LTZ if I'm not mistaken. but I probably am.
 
Yea I wasn't talking about some special hatch. I just pull the fender liner aside and change the bulbs. Its honestly the easiest one I've had to do outside of my old 05 sierra.
 
Replacing the fuel pump on a 1989 Chevrolet Camaro. To get the fuel tank out the rear axle has to be removed along with exhaust system. Fucking stupid.
 
subybaja said:
Chrysler Jeep, and their Dana 35 rear wheel bearings where the inner race is the axle shaft.

Dumb bastards saved $.30 per side, and now I've got to spend $200 for Richmond garbage, or $320 for Spicer...which is out of stock because someone got a cough. Instead of $40 for a couple real wheel bearings.

:mad3: :flipoff:

Not mine:

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Pardon my Dana 35 ignorance, but wtf is going on with the bolts in the flange? Something seems weird here.
 
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