You mean the shit that leaked on my motor mount in the first place causing it to fail?
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engineering that makes you want to punch babies.
- Thread starter 87manche
- Start date
diymmi | DIY Liquid Urethane Engine and Motor Mount Inserts
DIY liquid polyurethane for motor and engine mounts. Use this kit to repair broken mounts, make solid mounts, firm up OE mounts, improve engine response | DST diymmi
www.suspension.com
Converting a standard rubber engine mount to polyurethane - The Pinderwagen
I noticed when the car was on the Dyno earlier this year there was more engine movement than expected. Looking closely and it was obvious the rear engine mount was the issue. This did have a polyeurethane insert but over time it had worn and the rubber was worn allowing…
pinderwagen.com
![[486]](https://data.irate4x4.com/avatars/m/0/94.jpg?1700178133){kind=avatar}
[486]
ugh, that guy again?
yup
but uncured urethane doesn't wash off your hands good with brake clean, atf gets it off real nice
same with asphalt and other sticky shit
ndtguy
Mr. B
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- May 26, 2020
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That’s my next step. I have it linked but couldn’t wait any longer. Filled the bushings on Wednesday and installed Friday and Saturday.
They were so broke that the area the bolt goes through the mount was laying in the bottom of the circle. When turned sideways that section fell out of the mount.
Last edited:
ndtguy
Mr. B
- Joined
- May 26, 2020
- Member Number
- 1505
- Messages
- 39
Cleaned/scrubbed with water and degreaser. Let it dry. Taped one side and then filled it in. Took the tape off and installed.
ndtguy
Mr. B
- Joined
- May 26, 2020
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That’s what I used. Is smart people put on nitrile gloves prior to application
ndtguy
Mr. B
- Joined
- May 26, 2020
- Member Number
- 1505
- Messages
- 39
Thanks. Bookmarked for next time. I saw something similar on the other van forum. One guy used rubber hose, one used epoxy and one used the sealant I copied.ndtguy
Look like this will fit?
polyurethane engine mount inserts for Avenger and 200
polybushings.com
Or do like the OP (user name Crapavan lol) in this thread.
Poly urethane engine mounts
www.chryslerminivan.net
No, use Heptane to clean rubber. I haven’t tried acetone, but I believe it would work in a pinch.
check tire repair places for “prebuff” just a fancy name
Donk
Piss Artist Formerly Known As OllieNZ
A 3/8"X1/8" bead of windshield adhesive takes at least 7 days to cure all the way through. I've had to do warranty remove and refits and even 10 days later the glue can still be liquid in the middle, especially if the last guy put a sausage bead down
TrailTamer
🤣🖕🏻
Speaking of motor mounts.
Its appalling on how Jeep 4.0’s OEM motor mounts suck despite its not stupid-engineered as caravans’ mounts.
And 94-05 S-10 based 4.3 OEM motor mounts truly suck. The rubber in middle solely rely on bonding to metal plates, no built-in redundancy to stop from complete separation such as Jeep 4.0 or these caravan mounts (through bolt cannot ‘exit’ the captured metal surrounding).
Its appalling on how Jeep 4.0’s OEM motor mounts suck despite its not stupid-engineered as caravans’ mounts.
And 94-05 S-10 based 4.3 OEM motor mounts truly suck. The rubber in middle solely rely on bonding to metal plates, no built-in redundancy to stop from complete separation such as Jeep 4.0 or these caravan mounts (through bolt cannot ‘exit’ the captured metal surrounding).
[486]
ugh, that guy again?
not talking about cleaning it to get it to stick
taking about cleaning it to get it to not stick
Brown dog still making better mounts for 4 liters?Speaking of motor mounts.
Its appalling on how Jeep 4.0’s OEM motor mounts suck despite its not stupid-engineered as caravans’ mounts.
And 94-05 S-10 based 4.3 OEM motor mounts truly suck. The rubber in middle solely rely on bonding to metal plates, no built-in redundancy to stop from complete separation such as Jeep 4.0 or these caravan mounts (through bolt cannot ‘exit’ the captured metal surrounding).
TrailTamer
🤣🖕🏻
They do, and many other companies.
But they shouldn’t get blown on first wheeling trip.
My XJ’s OE mounts got blown after its post-build shakedown run. Stinky fab’s motor & trans mounts went in shortly after.
Not to draw attention away from motor mounts, but why would you hide one unit bearing bolt behind the lower balljoint? Clock it ANY differently and it would make changing wheel bearings quick and easy. Instead, I have to pop loose the lower joint just to access that one bolt.
Plus, they're Torx. Naturally.
Plus, they're Torx. Naturally.
Because fuck you that's why.Not to draw attention away from motor mounts, but why would you hide one unit bearing bolt behind the lower balljoint? Clock it ANY differently and it would make changing wheel bearings quick and easy. Instead, I have to pop loose the lower joint just to access that one bolt.
Plus, they're Torx. Naturally.
1oddtech
Unknown member
I don't get what the issue is with ball joints and tie rods? Take nut off and smack the side with a hammer.
Already done, but I don't have to like it. And it's still more work than is needed. 😉
I've got some baby-punching engineering gripes, as well as an IBB info request.
Last thing first: All of you who are familiar with large, remote industrial sites and/or prime power electrical generation, anyone out there ever seen a 1MW+ power generator actually run primarily on propane?
Rant:
Fucking calibration engineers bowing to their sales force and/or project managers who bow to sales force.
I'm currently coming in at midnight to run testing on a 1.5MW NG power generation engine(1.25MW on propane). I've done this for several companies with this size of engine, as well as worked on development tests for same. NONE of them spend enough resources on truly sorting out their calibration for LP. NONE. Why? Because who in their right mind would burn 150+gal/hr LP on something like this? You'd have to have fuel trucks on a loop day and night if actually trying to run for prime power. One calibration engineer flat told me they only have about 10% of their budget of time and money dedicated to LP calibration optimization due to nobody actually using it and the only reason they cert for LP is "dual fuel cert, bro".
So, what's the current problem? Engine kept shutting down and full load due to hitting temperature limits. After discussions with the customer's calibration lead, it's because the intake temp is a few degrees higher than nominal temp. Not above operating limits, mind you, just not perfect. Our operating conditions are well within bounds for regular operation, and it's not even tripping warnings for inlet air or intake air temps. Basically, to make this power level on LP they are running on the ragged edge, and this is how they programmed it. Fuck me. I thought it was strange that the mfgr. claimed only a 15% power reduction on LP (standard is about 30% for similar engines tested). The only good reason for this is to tout numbers by salesmen.
This is from and established, old, well-funded company who has a stellar warranty. I suppose they figure they can get away with it since nobody in their right mind would attempt to run this in the field on LP, but why don't they just admit it will never happen and stop advertising it as a dual fuel engine? It would save them money and time, and keep one random idiot customer from being a warranty claim nightmare if they actually attempt to make full power on LP.
Oh well, job security for me I guess
I'm wondering who you work for
I'm 2 months into trying to get a 1M NG generator to pass a 4 hour 100% load bank test.
Test 1- ran at 100% load for 3 hours before a significant backfire and shut down.
replaced MAP sensors and reset valve backlash.
Test 2- ran at 100% load for ~2 hours before shutting down the test due to "pre" high temp alarm
After test 2 several pressure meters were installed.
Test 3-20- Generator runs like shit and has backfires as load is increased to 40%.
Somewhere in the mix the NG regulator was swapped out.
NG pressure and/or volume is the proposed issue. Generator literature states it needs 20-30"WC, but the engine literature just states 30" WC.
NG regulator was replaced again and adjusted and is now maintaining constant 30" WC, but the generator reps are still pointing toward NG volume being the issue.
How could NG volume be the issue if PSI/WC hold constant from gas meter to generator "fuel rail".
The thing standing out to most of us involved is how the generator ran perfect at 100% load for just over 3 hours before a significant backfire and since then has had issues. If there is NG volume issue, it should have been present during the first test.
IowaOffRoad
Imperator Donvaldus Ioannes
By location and what you are testing, you work for SwRI?I'm wondering who you work for
I'm 2 months into trying to get a 1M NG generator to pass a 4 hour 100% load bank test.
Test 1- ran at 100% load for 3 hours before a significant backfire and shut down.
replaced MAP sensors and reset valve backlash.
Test 2- ran at 100% load for ~2 hours before shutting down the test due to "pre" high temp alarm
After test 2 several pressure meters were installed.
Test 3-20- Generator runs like shit and has backfires as load is increased to 40%.
Somewhere in the mix the NG regulator was swapped out.
NG pressure and/or volume is the proposed issue. Generator literature states it needs 20-30"WC, but the engine literature just states 30" WC.
NG regulator was replaced again and adjusted and is now maintaining constant 30" WC, but the generator reps are still pointing toward NG volume being the issue.
How could NG volume be the issue if PSI/WC hold constant from gas meter to generator "fuel rail".
The thing standing out to most of us involved is how the generator ran perfect at 100% load for just over 3 hours before a significant backfire and since then has had issues. If there is NG volume issue, it should have been present during the first test.
Would this be a test for a genset intended for a strict emissions control area in Cali? Or is this a development project? Just curious, I've been down this road before. By any chance is this a V16 converted Diesel that the design originated in Belgium and the hardware was built in Asia???
I'm the electrical contractor, but the generator was purchased under our contract.
The project is in TX and is private development.
The genset is a V16, but it was built by PSI here in the states.
IowaOffRoad
Imperator Donvaldus Ioannes
Assembled by PSI, everything else I stated is true. I may have some experience with those…
Good luck!
Post war British engineering leaves something to be desired.
Castle nuts? Nah, we’ll drill it after it’s assembled and good luck to the next guy.
See a lot of peened over bolts on the airframe too.
And their fasteners are shit.
Castle nuts? Nah, we’ll drill it after it’s assembled and good luck to the next guy.
See a lot of peened over bolts on the airframe too.
And their fasteners are shit.
All that rom under there and they park shit right on top of the coils. The likelihood of breaking some plastic POS is high.
Plugs look like they were leaking around the porcelain.
These plugs had 46K on them. Recommend change interval, 30K.........
Plugs look like they were leaking around the porcelain.
These plugs had 46K on them. Recommend change interval, 30K.........
[486]
ugh, that guy again?
corona discharge
totally normal, not combustion gas related at all
This isn't a fucking vandigraph coil.
Or is it
I have never seen that before and I've run some pretty stout ignitions.
[486]
ugh, that guy again?
it's pretty much the case on all coil-on-plug stuff now
sometimes it doesn't even have the brown color to it, just a ring of matte porcelain rather than shiny as they are brand new
TrikeKid
Junk Hoarder
Got the pleasure of doing timing chains on a newer Canyon with the newer gen of GM 3.6. It's a monument to bullshit CAFE standard compliance built down to a GM price point
Gotta pull the oil pan to remove the front cover because the wiring for the electronically controlled oil pump runs through that and instead of putting a fucking connector on the front of the engine like Ford does, you get wires that run through the cover directly to the oil pump at almost the very back of the engine. Gotta pull the front diff and the steering rack out AND jack up the engine to get the oil pan out. Oh, and it's got SIX fucking vct solenoids to go bad, each goes through a seal. Pressurized oil passages in the valve covers to feed the variable rocker arms, with more solenoids to fail and seals to leak. It's like a team of failed German engineers got jobs at Chevy.
Oh and the dealer is fucking USELESS getting parts for this piece of shit, got it apart and came up short on about a dozen different little bullshit seals and gaskets.
Gotta pull the oil pan to remove the front cover because the wiring for the electronically controlled oil pump runs through that and instead of putting a fucking connector on the front of the engine like Ford does, you get wires that run through the cover directly to the oil pump at almost the very back of the engine. Gotta pull the front diff and the steering rack out AND jack up the engine to get the oil pan out. Oh, and it's got SIX fucking vct solenoids to go bad, each goes through a seal. Pressurized oil passages in the valve covers to feed the variable rocker arms, with more solenoids to fail and seals to leak. It's like a team of failed German engineers got jobs at Chevy.
Oh and the dealer is fucking USELESS getting parts for this piece of shit, got it apart and came up short on about a dozen different little bullshit seals and gaskets.
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
what all are they putting those in?
TrikeKid
Junk Hoarder
Looks like this RPO (LGZ) is just in the Canyon and Colorado. Pretty much any GM 3.6 made in the last 5-6 years is some variation of this mess though