DRTDEVL
Mothfukle
Nope, that's why I brought it up in the engineering thread. Its not a standard drain plug.One of these
And one of these
Only make a mess once.
Dumbest shit ever.
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engineering that makes you want to punch babies.
- Thread starter 87manche
- Start date
Dumbest shit ever.
TrikeKid
Junk Hoarder
The 6.7 powerstrokes had those the first year or so, factory fill was also 5w40. Did the first service on one and took a nice fucking bath because I underestimated the safe distance to be at when i pulled the plug.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Nope, that's why I brought it up in the engineering thread. Its not a standard drain plug.
Dumbest shit ever.
FORD EASY OIL DRAIN
FITS: CLICK HERE TO SEE FITMENT GUIDE - In summary, if your oil drain plug is a yellow plastic plug, then this item should fit. 2021+ Ford F150 Lariat, XL, XLT 2.7 V6 2015-2020 Ford F150 2.7L, 3.5L, 5.0L V8 2017-2020 Ford Raptor V6 (Gen 2) 2018+ Ford Mustang 5.0L V8 2019+ Ford Edge ST 2.7L V6...
roninfactory.com
speed bump
Red Skull Member
I think I like the dorman option better or at least well enough my 6.7 will get one to try
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
What has the world come too when the Dorman option is the better choice.
speed bump
Red Skull Member
Once every 5 years or so their problem solver line has some sort of pretty legit option for some problem.
Fuzzydog
Red Skull Member
The Schrader valve on the fuel rail, for checking fuel pressure on a jeep 4.7 grand Cherokee is conveniently located right behind a big wire harness. Makes it so that you can't run the tester line over or under it and still have room to get your fingers in there to thread the line on the fitting. And looking at the fuel rail it is easy to see at least 50,000,000 better spots for that Schrader. 
billdacat
No road...no problem.
At least you have a Shrader valve..... They did away with it around 04'ish....The Schrader valve on the fuel rail, for checking fuel pressure on a jeep 4.7 grand Cherokee is conveniently located right behind a big wire harness. Makes it so that you can't run the tester line over or under it and still have room to get your fingers in there to thread the line on the fitting. And looking at the fuel rail it is easy to see at least 50,000,000 better spots for that Schrader.
Hydromaster
Trout Slayer
Jeep engineers
Ie, blend doors/actuators.
Ie, blend doors/actuators.
We have this engine and fuel rail, put it in the car.The Schrader valve on the fuel rail, for checking fuel pressure on a jeep 4.7 grand Cherokee is conveniently located right behind a big wire harness. Makes it so that you can't run the tester line over or under it and still have room to get your fingers in there to thread the line on the fitting. And looking at the fuel rail it is easy to see at least 50,000,000 better spots for that Schrader.
Some bean counter somewhere, probably
Fuckin pos faggoty Toyota shit.
“Hey can you throw a fuel pump in my tundra”
sure, still might not run. Ran with gas sprayed in the intake, Even jumped the relay to convince myself it wasn’t a complete parts cannon deal. Old pump out bench tested good.
New pump still no fuel.
Wtf is with the lip on the frame that collects crud to rot it out? two layers top and bottom riveted together to get nice and crusty in only 12 years.
“Hey can you throw a fuel pump in my tundra”
sure, still might not run. Ran with gas sprayed in the intake, Even jumped the relay to convince myself it wasn’t a complete parts cannon deal. Old pump out bench tested good.
New pump still no fuel.
Wtf is with the lip on the frame that collects crud to rot it out? two layers top and bottom riveted together to get nice and crusty in only 12 years.
Worse than 90's Fords? Cause you know, the heater needs to be on all the fucking time.
How else were they supposed to dry out the floor from the leaking windshields and firewalls to slow down the rot?
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
But change heater core in 15 minHow else were they supposed to dry out the floor from the leaking windshields and firewalls to slow down the rot?
ndtguy
Mr. B
- Joined
- May 26, 2020
- Member Number
- 1505
- Messages
- 39
Hello Dodge Grand Caravn Engineers: (actually, all engineers dealing with front wheel drives who think this type of motor/transmission mounts are acceptable.
Let go of the mouse and explain to the rest of humanity why three of the four engine mounts on a 5th gen look like this brand new.
Most of us with an iq of room temperature can see the problem. There’s no support under the bolt hole which then tears the middle section to shreds.
This is how the front, rear and transmission mount are made for these vehicles. The passenger side mount is a fluid mount and of a different design. It only breaks (I should say cracks) when the other mounts give up the ghost.
If you’ve ever had the absolute satisfaction of changed the rear mount on the ground, you understand why I was speaking like Boris the blade(bullet dodger) about how stupid automotive engineers are while performing the task. That’s a fun one. I lost a heat shield fastener to the 10mm abyss when putting everything back together.
Before I installed the new mounts I filled the openings with window sealant hoping to get more than 2.5-3 years out them (also hoping my wife calms down on her throttle stabs because she thinks it’s a race car).
Let go of the mouse and explain to the rest of humanity why three of the four engine mounts on a 5th gen look like this brand new.
Most of us with an iq of room temperature can see the problem. There’s no support under the bolt hole which then tears the middle section to shreds.
This is how the front, rear and transmission mount are made for these vehicles. The passenger side mount is a fluid mount and of a different design. It only breaks (I should say cracks) when the other mounts give up the ghost.
If you’ve ever had the absolute satisfaction of changed the rear mount on the ground, you understand why I was speaking like Boris the blade(bullet dodger) about how stupid automotive engineers are while performing the task. That’s a fun one. I lost a heat shield fastener to the 10mm abyss when putting everything back together.
Before I installed the new mounts I filled the openings with window sealant hoping to get more than 2.5-3 years out them (also hoping my wife calms down on her throttle stabs because she thinks it’s a race car).
IowaOffRoad
Imperator Donvaldus Ioannes
I've got some baby-punching engineering gripes, as well as an IBB info request.
Last thing first: All of you who are familiar with large, remote industrial sites and/or prime power electrical generation, anyone out there ever seen a 1MW+ power generator actually run primarily on propane?
Rant:
Fucking calibration engineers bowing to their sales force and/or project managers who bow to sales force.
I'm currently coming in at midnight to run testing on a 1.5MW NG power generation engine(1.25MW on propane). I've done this for several companies with this size of engine, as well as worked on development tests for same. NONE of them spend enough resources on truly sorting out their calibration for LP. NONE. Why? Because who in their right mind would burn 150+gal/hr LP on something like this? You'd have to have fuel trucks on a loop day and night if actually trying to run for prime power. One calibration engineer flat told me they only have about 10% of their budget of time and money dedicated to LP calibration optimization due to nobody actually using it and the only reason they cert for LP is "dual fuel cert, bro".
So, what's the current problem? Engine kept shutting down and full load due to hitting temperature limits. After discussions with the customer's calibration lead, it's because the intake temp is a few degrees higher than nominal temp. Not above operating limits, mind you, just not perfect. Our operating conditions are well within bounds for regular operation, and it's not even tripping warnings for inlet air or intake air temps. Basically, to make this power level on LP they are running on the ragged edge, and this is how they programmed it. Fuck me. I thought it was strange that the mfgr. claimed only a 15% power reduction on LP (standard is about 30% for similar engines tested). The only good reason for this is to tout numbers by salesmen.
This is from and established, old, well-funded company who has a stellar warranty. I suppose they figure they can get away with it since nobody in their right mind would attempt to run this in the field on LP, but why don't they just admit it will never happen and stop advertising it as a dual fuel engine? It would save them money and time, and keep one random idiot customer from being a warranty claim nightmare if they actually attempt to make full power on LP.
Oh well, job security for me I guess
Last thing first: All of you who are familiar with large, remote industrial sites and/or prime power electrical generation, anyone out there ever seen a 1MW+ power generator actually run primarily on propane?
Rant:
Fucking calibration engineers bowing to their sales force and/or project managers who bow to sales force.
I'm currently coming in at midnight to run testing on a 1.5MW NG power generation engine(1.25MW on propane). I've done this for several companies with this size of engine, as well as worked on development tests for same. NONE of them spend enough resources on truly sorting out their calibration for LP. NONE. Why? Because who in their right mind would burn 150+gal/hr LP on something like this? You'd have to have fuel trucks on a loop day and night if actually trying to run for prime power. One calibration engineer flat told me they only have about 10% of their budget of time and money dedicated to LP calibration optimization due to nobody actually using it and the only reason they cert for LP is "dual fuel cert, bro".
So, what's the current problem? Engine kept shutting down and full load due to hitting temperature limits. After discussions with the customer's calibration lead, it's because the intake temp is a few degrees higher than nominal temp. Not above operating limits, mind you, just not perfect. Our operating conditions are well within bounds for regular operation, and it's not even tripping warnings for inlet air or intake air temps. Basically, to make this power level on LP they are running on the ragged edge, and this is how they programmed it. Fuck me. I thought it was strange that the mfgr. claimed only a 15% power reduction on LP (standard is about 30% for similar engines tested). The only good reason for this is to tout numbers by salesmen.
This is from and established, old, well-funded company who has a stellar warranty. I suppose they figure they can get away with it since nobody in their right mind would attempt to run this in the field on LP, but why don't they just admit it will never happen and stop advertising it as a dual fuel engine? It would save them money and time, and keep one random idiot customer from being a warranty claim nightmare if they actually attempt to make full power on LP.
Oh well, job security for me I guess
Donk
Piss Artist Formerly Known As OllieNZ
Get a liquid poly bush kit to fill the gaps with next time?Hello Dodge Grand Caravn Engineers: (actually, all engineers dealing with front wheel drives who think this type of motor/transmission mounts are acceptable.
Let go of the mouse and explain to the rest of humanity why three of the four engine mounts on a 5th gen look like this brand new.
Most of us with an iq of room temperature can see the problem. There’s no support under the bolt hole which then tears the middle section to shreds.
This is how the front, rear and transmission mount are made for these vehicles. The passenger side mount is a fluid mount and of a different design. It only breaks (I should say cracks) when the other mounts give up the ghost.
If you’ve ever had the absolute satisfaction of changed the rear mount on the ground, you understand why I was speaking like Boris the blade(bullet dodger) about how stupid automotive engineers are while performing the task. That’s a fun one. I lost a heat shield fastener to the 10mm abyss when putting everything back together.
Before I installed the new mounts I filled the openings with window sealant hoping to get more than 2.5-3 years out them (also hoping my wife calms down on her throttle stabs because she thinks it’s a race car).
V30crewcab
Well-known member
windshield urethane,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
![[486]](https://data.irate4x4.com/avatars/m/0/94.jpg?1700178133){kind=avatar}
[486]
ugh, that guy again?
every time I've tried it squirts back out, tried seam sealer, tried window weld, tried roofing urethane
it's just too soft, and since it is water curing, it doesn't really cure on the inside of the bushing until after it's already torn
V30crewcab
Well-known member
never had it come back out. I put the urethane in, let it sit overnight, and its good to go. the 3m stuff is not water curing.
Spray the bushing with water before filling?
arse_sidewards
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 71
- Messages
- 8,538
Don't worry, Bebop punched it into his simulation software and as long as the driver doesn't spend more time on the skinny pedal than whatever default assumed value they plug in it'll outlast the warranty 80% of the time while delivering superior NVH characteristics.Hello Dodge Grand Caravn Engineers: (actually, all engineers dealing with front wheel drives who think this type of motor/transmission mounts are acceptable.
Let go of the mouse and explain to the rest of humanity why three of the four engine mounts on a 5th gen look like this brand new.
Most of us with an iq of room temperature can see the problem. There’s no support under the bolt hole which then tears the middle section to shreds.
arse_sidewards
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 71
- Messages
- 8,538
I'd be inclined to try some 2-part epoxy. You'd basically be creating a plastic slug to fill the dead space but since the rest of the rubber is there it might work pretty good.
[486]
ugh, that guy again?
it isn't two-part, so yes it is
V30crewcab
Well-known member
this shit? water does nothing to it. if you get it on you it might as well be herc on your hootis. only way to clean it off is brakekleen or something similar. Its probably out of your price range though, at $30 a tube!
Attachments
[486]
ugh, that guy again?
it crosslinks when catalyzed by water, or whatever technical word soup is applicable
next time you're trying to clean it off of you, use a light oil like ATF or similar
V30crewcab
Well-known member
my point is its used to glue in structural windshields, once its dry its not going anywhere. maybe give it a minute to dry? I have used it on many motor mounts with no issues. I've even fixed a messed up tire bead with it.
[486]
ugh, that guy again?
gave it three weeks, it just ain't as stiff as the urethane that bushings are made of
TrailTamer
🤣🖕🏻
ndtguy
Look like this will fit?
Or do like the OP (user name Crapavan lol) in this thread.
www.chryslerminivan.net
Look like this will fit?
polyurethane engine mount inserts for Avenger and 200
polybushings.com
Or do like the OP (user name Crapavan lol) in this thread.