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engineering that makes you want to punch babies.

and I would assume that someone somewhere wants to collect them. lol
There's probably like three dudes in the whole country. If I had more space I'd probably collect them too.

People collect cars that a) were unique or interesting in their day or b) the rich kids' parents dragged them around in when they were young.

A Ford Tempo ain't that.
 
Just YouTube where to cut the hole in the floor. And it has the bonus of making purists angry
Do videos of that exist? Because sometimes the fuel pickup is not located in a nice flat spot, there can be seams and different panels going at angles to the floor right above the fuel pump access hole in the tank, making it not such a good option as in a pickup or Suburban.
 
Just YouTube where to cut the hole in the floor. And it has the bonus of making purists angry
That's the method I used until I met the only person in the world who thought his Camaro was valuable so had to do it the hard way. Fucking sucked and he paid for it.
 
Pardon my Dana 35 ignorance, but wtf is going on with the bolts in the flange? Something seems weird here.
That's common on aftermarket shafts with several bolt patterns. The G2 shafts I put in my dana 44 were the same way. Run a grade 8 bolt in from the back side for the studs
 
Do videos of that exist? Because sometimes the fuel pickup is not located in a nice flat spot, there can be seams and different panels going at angles to the floor right above the fuel pump access hole in the tank, making it not such a good option as in a pickup or Suburban.
Not sure on the video. But I know we found the measurements somewhere to cut the floor in the family 91 camaro when I was a kid. It’s a nice flat spot in the middle of the trunk.
 
Found a new one to hate today. Used car lot brought me a '14 Civic to diag a traction control light and TPMS light. Low tire pressure code is the only thing in the ABS module so I figure I'll air the tires up and ping the sensors with the tool and ship it. Apparently in '14 Honda quit using TPMS sensors and uses wheel speed to calculate it (Low tire will show higher wheel speed due to being "smaller"). That's fine till i get to the relearn procedure for the TPMS. Drive between 28 and 65mph with minimal change for "about" EIGHTEEN MINUTES? Why the fuck does the car need that long to figure out all the tires are spinning the same speed?
 
Found a new one to hate today. Used car lot brought me a '14 Civic to diag a traction control light and TPMS light. Low tire pressure code is the only thing in the ABS module so I figure I'll air the tires up and ping the sensors with the tool and ship it. Apparently in '14 Honda quit using TPMS sensors and uses wheel speed to calculate it (Low tire will show higher wheel speed due to being "smaller"). That's fine till i get to the relearn procedure for the TPMS. Drive between 28 and 65mph with minimal change for "about" EIGHTEEN MINUTES? Why the fuck does the car need that long to figure out all the tires are spinning the same speed?

conspiracy theory; its an answer to dealer cries about losing work due to extended service intervals on things. Now they get to charge an additional hour+ to just drive the vehicle down the highway/interstate as part of the tpms service.
Same reason GM dealers 'recommend' 5000 mile oil changes and ignore the oil life monitor, even though GM itself says the oil life monitor is based on various factors including time, idling, rpm and whatever else they got listed in the manual.
 
conspiracy theory; its an answer to dealer cries about losing work due to extended service intervals on things. Now they get to charge an additional hour+ to just drive the vehicle down the highway/interstate as part of the tpms service.
Same reason GM dealers 'recommend' 5000 mile oil changes and ignore the oil life monitor, even though GM itself says the oil life monitor is based on various factors including time, idling, rpm and whatever else they got listed in the manual.
I would guess that the telltale there would be seeing how much difference there is between the "book time" to go check the TPMS as warranty work versus "book time" when the customer is paying for it.

Aaron Z
 
Found a new one to hate today. Used car lot brought me a '14 Civic to diag a traction control light and TPMS light. Low tire pressure code is the only thing in the ABS module so I figure I'll air the tires up and ping the sensors with the tool and ship it. Apparently in '14 Honda quit using TPMS sensors and uses wheel speed to calculate it (Low tire will show higher wheel speed due to being "smaller"). That's fine till i get to the relearn procedure for the TPMS. Drive between 28 and 65mph with minimal change for "about" EIGHTEEN MINUTES? Why the fuck does the car need that long to figure out all the tires are spinning the same speed?
just worked on a BMW that at least had a progress bar in the dash
it didn't give you speed parameters, but it didn't take long to see that the progress bar stopped rising above 50mph
so I was stuck at 45 in a 55 waiting on that progress bar to fill up for about 20 minutes. Fun times on a tire repair that pays .2
 
“About 18 minutes”:lmao::lmao::lmao:

That seems like a fairly specific length of time.Doesn’t seem like the “about” is necessary to me. Around 10. Nearly 15. Approximately 20. Those make a little more sense.
Sounds like some dumbass manager asked some junior engineer how long it takes for the tires to warm up, the junior engineer did some spreadsheet magic and gave the raw number back to the manager who gave it to the service literature guys who just typed it straight in without thinking that maybe they don't need that much precision.
 
just worked on a BMW that at least had a progress bar in the dash
it didn't give you speed parameters, but it didn't take long to see that the progress bar stopped rising above 50mph
so I was stuck at 45 in a 55 waiting on that progress bar to fill up for about 20 minutes. Fun times on a tire repair that pays .2
that's odd, my FTM resets in about half a mile.
 
just worked on a BMW that at least had a progress bar in the dash
it didn't give you speed parameters, but it didn't take long to see that the progress bar stopped rising above 50mph
so I was stuck at 45 in a 55 waiting on that progress bar to fill up for about 20 minutes. Fun times on a tire repair that pays .2
That was my favorite part about this Honda, no way of knowing if it's figured it out until after you drive the "about 18 minutes" and turn the car off. Couldn't program it to just turn the lights off when it's learned.
 
10+ hours to do a water pump on a vq37hr vs a couple hours in previous year cars. Was it so fucking hard to have an access plate on the timing cover like before? They have one for the tensioner still. But fuuuck you on the water pump one. Retards! Let just say the customer ain't oo happy about a 2200$ water pump job, lol.
20220204_164556.jpg
 
10+ hours to do a water pump on a vq37hr vs a couple hours in previous year cars. Was it so fucking hard to have an access plate on the timing cover like before? They have one for the tensioner still. But fuuuck you on the water pump one. Retards! Let just say the customer ain't oo happy about a 2200$ water pump job, lol.
oof.

So I have this oil pan. It has handles molded int. They're trapezoidal shaped so when you tip it up the oil runs down the handle and spills out the top, while pooling at the bottom.
Not only are they on one edge, they're on the short edge too, so you play the fucking marble game for ten minutes to drain the pan, instead of just tipping it up against the wall over the used oil jug.
annoying.
 
IMG_20220205_162315097.jpg


Well I had all new bolts to go in there, guess which bolt got reused.

IMG_20220205_175338066.jpg


and fuck balljoints that need pressed in. dumbass upside down balljoint shit.
 
Circling back to the starter placement rant.

Colorado's with Atlas motors. It's mounted on the side of the block. Can't access it from the top, intake is in the way. No bottom access cause 4X. Only access is through the small wheel well opening around the steering column. Not even sure how I would get it out even if I could see the bolts to get them loose.

It has an intermittent no crank issue. Still not sure the starter is bad. I wish it would just fucking die so I could figure out what the issue really is.
 
Circling back to the starter placement rant.

Colorado's with Atlas motors. It's mounted on the side of the block. Can't access it from the top, intake is in the way. No bottom access cause 4X. Only access is through the small wheel well opening around the steering column. Not even sure how I would get it out even if I could see the bolts to get them loose.

It has an intermittent no crank issue. Still not sure the starter is bad. I wish it would just fucking die so I could figure out what the issue really is.

I had a coworker with one. He said they always took the intake off. He traded it in after the 3rd starter went bad.
 
Circling back to the starter placement rant.

Colorado's with Atlas motors. It's mounted on the side of the block. Can't access it from the top, intake is in the way. No bottom access cause 4X. Only access is through the small wheel well opening around the steering column. Not even sure how I would get it out even if I could see the bolts to get them loose.

It has an intermittent no crank issue. Still not sure the starter is bad. I wish it would just fucking die so I could figure out what the issue really is.
3.0/4wd ranger is very similar
had one in and you could sorta thread a 19" extension in there (not an inch longer or shorter, and 3/8" is the biggest that'll fit between the engine mount, diff, steering linkage and sway bar) with a swivel to get at the top bolt, but it was stuck good enough that I ended up just breaking the starter off of that bolt, then getting the bolt out
 
Sounds like some dumbass manager asked some junior engineer how long it takes for the tires to warm up, the junior engineer did some spreadsheet magic and gave the raw number back to the manager who gave it to the service literature guys who just typed it straight in without thinking that maybe they don't need that much precision.
I bet its because 18/60 is 0.3.
 
2010 2.3 Ranger valve cover gasket replacement is a all day job because every wire, vacuum line, coolant line, etc, That goes to or from the engine, or anywhere else in the engine compartment seems to be attached to the cover.
 
3.0/4wd ranger is very similar
had one in and you could sorta thread a 19" extension in there (not an inch longer or shorter, and 3/8" is the biggest that'll fit between the engine mount, diff, steering linkage and sway bar) with a swivel to get at the top bolt, but it was stuck good enough that I ended up just breaking the starter off of that bolt, then getting the bolt out
wat?

You muse be talking about the newer torsion bar ones because the starter goes on and off my TTB Ranger (and the Aerostar for that matter) with no extra parts being removed.
 
wat?

You muse be talking about the newer torsion bar ones because the starter goes on and off my TTB Ranger (and the Aerostar for that matter) with no extra parts being removed.
wat?

Your idea of "newer" is like 24 years old. :flipoff2:

But yea... I think he's talking about ifs ranger
 
wat?

You muse be talking about the newer torsion bar ones because the starter goes on and off my TTB Ranger (and the Aerostar for that matter) with no extra parts being removed.
yup, was a very early torsion bar A-arm one

beams have aged out of the fleet around here
there are a few electrician vans around, but even they're dying off way too fast
sadly, actual good IFS is becoming a thing of the past
 
yup, was a very early torsion bar A-arm one

beams have aged out of the fleet around here
there are a few electrician vans around, but even they're dying off way too fast
sadly, actual good IFS is becoming a thing of the past
Ford's still making them but it's only cab and chassis. If the fleet in the rich parts around here is any indication it seems like everyone who used to drive an E350 van has an E350 DRW with a service body. The Euro vans just don't hold up to what the people who are replacing 20yo E-series want so they wind up getting up-sold a cab and chassis plus a service body.
 
3.6 pentastar Dodge Caravan lower radiator hose clamps. I cut the hose off the stock rad to pull it because the clamp was on in such a way getting pliers on it from the top wasn't possible. Get under the van, take off the cover (1 push pin, 2 bolts) and :homer::lmao: . That hose clamp is in between the crack and a/c pullies. I don't have a long set of needle nose pliers, sooooooo, I can get a small set of vice grips on it and push it back against the pump. I cut off the hose and then the clamp came off no problem.

Took me longer messing with the lower radiator hose then putting it back together.

Fail on me for no picture...
 
This lift pump is mounted to this "huge" cast iron bracket that bolts on behind the starter.
This could be in the tank, bolted anywhere on the engine or frame etc. but it is bolted behind the fucking starter.

I don't usually change the whole bracket just change the pump on the bracket, of course the bolts are loctited and the rear hose is NEAR impossible to get off the pump base when it's installed in on the engine in a backhoe.

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