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Early Bronco- rear axle/ no budget

tracyb

tracyb

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2020
Member Number
907
Messages
737
Loc
San Juan Islands
first and formost is, i dont want to work on this ever again... at this point i've told him to buy the most expensive axle his favorite site tomsbroncoparts.com offers. its only money. i value my time. yes i fully expect a 'fuck off and search', on with it...

story- a great friend, and decent customer of mine relies on me for all his early bronco work. (i'm not a mechanic i'm a metal shop, but small town crap, i source out everything) he needs a new rear end.

need to know- early bronco with a big bearing 9" ( not an axle guy dont know big bearing vs..?) blew out the ring gear. initially i said get a new third and bigger spine axle, 31 spline iirc. hes says they now have a 35spline. my initial thought was thats got to be more than the housing can hold up, not worth it.


so; but all new custom rear end, or just new third and axles???

i'm already pretty sure we'll go for the full new rear i've got to redo shock and anti-wrap bar anyway (looking into doing Raptor take off suspension next year).

any other input?

is toms bronco parts the place for this or who would you buy from?


lastly; rig is running a ~350-400hp fi 302 right now, probably a 5-600hp 351 when it quits. uses are ignorant shit around town, body safe-ish trails, and the oregon dunes with paddles on the rear. it was a show quality rig but if gets used. worst incedent so far was my unbuckled brother thown from the back seat, over the roll bar and into drivers lap... doing super dumb shit. it will see all tires off the ground, again, and again as long as the smiles are more than the pain.

attempting to add pics of the rig, let me know if it works.

*thanks for the new home Austin, not good with words so never posted much on the p
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I just did a bunch of research on the 9".

Basically the conclusion was that beyond a load bolt 3rd and decent gears. When you see trophy trucks and koh guys running a "9 inch" it's basically a $4k 3rd member that isn't going to last very long long at all running down the road because the gears are soft. The r&p alone literally cost $1200+

So if you really want the best strongest axle, go with a shaved 14b.

A full float aftermarket housing with a load bolt 3rd should be pretty strong though and leaps ahead of what he's got.
 
 
Honestly, beef up the axle housing with a truss, throw in a new 35 spline 3rd member and quality 35 spline axles, and I'd bet it would be fine..
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I just did a bunch of research on the 9".

Basically the conclusion was that beyond a load bolt 3rd and decent gears. When you see trophy trucks and koh guys running a "9 inch" it's basically a $4k 3rd member that isn't going to last very long long at all running down the road because the gears are soft. The r&p alone literally cost $1200+

So if you really want the best strongest axle, go with a shaved 14b.

A full float aftermarket housing with a load bolt 3rd should be pretty strong though and leaps ahead of what he's got.
Click to expand...

i'm going to order and bolt in, or weld tabs and such. i dont touch bearings, gears, and such (yet, always learning when time allows). his credit card on file is good for $5k, parts, he pays my time cash.

'A full float aftermarket housing with a load bolt 3rd' who would you suggest ordering from?
 
Poriggity said:
Honestly, beef up the axle housing with a truss, throw in a new 35 spline 3rd member and quality 35 spline axles, and I'd bet it would be fine..
Click to expand...

truss is easy, i pretty much built my businees from a plas cnc and a press brake.

my last conversation with him was more or less the third and axles cost ? $2500? and the new housing 1k more... why go new housing or not?? i thought new has to be better, but really the toms site doesn't sound like too much more beef.





*also i will follow up and post the new crap and install.
 
tracyb said:
i'm going to order and bolt in, or weld tabs and such. i dont touch bearings, gears, and such (yet, always learning when time allows). his credit card on file is good for $5k, parts, he pays my time cash.

'A full float aftermarket housing with a load bolt 3rd' who would you suggest ordering from?
Click to expand...

You want a whole axle to show up on a pallet? I'd call Currie.

​​​You're talking closer to $10k for a turn key axle though.
 
WTF? The guy breaks a ring gear that probably wasn't setup right or had some other issue and everyone is talking about bigger shafts and housings :shaking:

There is no way a healthy 9" ring and pinion should break before the stock 28 spline shafts. That rig looks like it is on 33" tires or so. The stock gear set and some 31 spline axles should hold up reasonably well. If he is jumping it, sure, add a truss.

35 spline axles are overkill in my opinion, and you can't run them in a stock 3rd anyways unless you run a spool. If you truly think he is exceeding the strength of the gear set, and it wasn't a fluke, get a 35 spline Gear set (big pinion), and a load bolt aftermarket case with a Daytona pinion support. Once you get into the 9.5" & 10" stuff, things start to get stupid expensive and many of those gear sets are for competition use and are soft and wear out quickly with street use.

The cheapest and easiest answer is to put a Sterling 10.25/10.5, Dana 70, or 14 bolt under it, but getting the front to match or modifying the rear to match the front is not cheap and easy...
 
YotaAtieToo said:
You want a whole axle to show up on a pallet? I'd call Currie.

​​​You're talking closer to $10k for a turn key axle though.
Click to expand...

that would be awesome. i shouldn't have said no budget,should say 5k.


i'm just coming from the tomsbroncoparts site and thinking the third and axles are 2500 ish if the full built housing is going to be 1000ish more. in my mind the housing goes with the gears and axles, maight be a bit more to have them assemble it but?? well i dont know, what i dont know
 
'84 Bronco II said:
WTF? The guy breaks a ring gear that probably wasn't setup right or had some other issue and everyone is talking about bigger shafts and housings :shaking:

There is no way a healthy 9" ring and pinion should break before the stock 28 spline shafts. That rig looks like it is on 33" tires or so. The stock gear set and some 31 spline axles should hold up reasonably well. If he is jumping it, sure, add a truss.

35 spline axles are overkill in my opinion, and you can't run them in a stock 3rd anyways unless you run a spool. If you truly think he is exceeding the strength of the gear set, and it wasn't a fluke, get a 35 spline Gear set (big pinion), and a load bolt aftermarket case with a Daytona pinion support. Once you get into the 9.5" & 10" stuff, things start to get stupid expensive and many of those gear sets are for competition use and are soft and wear out quickly with street use.

The cheapest and easiest answer is to put a Sterling 10.25/10.5, Dana 70, or 14 bolt under it, but getting the front to match or modifying the rear to match the front is not cheap and easy...
Click to expand...

I'd have to agree, but he said "no budget"

tracyb said:
that would be awesome. i shouldn't have said no budget,should say 5k.


i'm just coming from the tomsbroncoparts site and thinking the third and axles are 2500 ish if the full built housing is going to be 1000ish more. in my mind the housing goes with the gears and axles, maight be a bit more to have them assemble it but?? well i dont know, what i dont know
Click to expand...

I got a quote from Ruffstuff for a bare housing with spindles welded on. $1200, so you're not far off there.

$1800 for a load bolt, Detroit, 5.xx 3rd.

Shafts vary a lot, but $700 is probably right on.

Brakes aren't super expensive, but it is something, probably $300 all said and done.

​​​​​​You should be able to do it for $5k semi float, not sure about full float. But as mentioned, it's probably not necessary.
 
'84 Bronco II said:
WTF? The guy breaks a ring gear that probably wasn't setup right or had some other issue and everyone is talking about bigger shafts and housings :shaking:

There is no way a healthy 9" ring and pinion should break before the stock 28 spline shafts. That rig looks like it is on 33" tires or so. The stock gear set and some 31 spline axles should hold up reasonably well. If he is jumping it, sure, add a truss.

35 spline axles are overkill in my opinion, and you can't run them in a stock 3rd anyways unless you run a spool. If you truly think he is exceeding the strength of the gear set, and it wasn't a fluke, get a 35 spline Gear set (big pinion), and a load bolt aftermarket case with a Daytona pinion support. Once you get into the 9.5" & 10" stuff, things start to get stupid expensive and many of those gear sets are for competition use and are soft and wear out quickly with street use.

The cheapest and easiest answer is to put a Sterling 10.25/10.5, Dana 70, or 14 bolt under it, but getting the front to match or modifying the rear to match the front is not cheap and easy...
Click to expand...



it was definitely a bad install. ive only got a couple pics ill add.

this is a rig my buddy's had since he could drive, put more money into than some new exotic car. but it always, slowly, gets better. even though its beat on. cheap and easy is my go to, but not on this one. it hard to explain but me and him both built our business's together, he trusts me blindly (well to 5k, see pre), and has paid me more than its worth working on it. i know what i'm good at and its not this

he's a ford guy and 9ich is ford (by his terms, but i think its only been ford?)

this axle needs to be able to handle the next motor he puts in. and when that motor goes in it will probably get a 9" front (and in a couple more years a bigger budget)
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think i screwed something up on the last post. bed now. i'll look back tommorow. thanks for the input
 
This is straight off curries website. Bolt in EB 9", painted, 35 spline and Detroit, explorer Disk brakes shipped to your door for $4200. If you want to truss it, save the $200 forgo the paint and slap it on once you get the axle in house. Boom...Under budget. :grinpimp:

photo4669.jpg
 
Toreadorranger said:
This is straight off curries website. Bolt in EB 9", painted, 35 spline and Detroit, explorer Disk brakes shipped to your door for $4200. If you want to truss it, save the $200 forgo the paint and slap it on once you get the axle in house. Boom...Under budget. :grinpimp:
Click to expand...

BOOM is right!

i just sent txt him a link to that page, and he immediately called wanting to buy it. so looks like a winner. the way i optioned it was $3890 i'll put a truss, shock mounts, the anti wrap bar mount. and then send to my powder coat guy.


i'm going to wait until the end of the day, maybe monday, before pulling the trigger.
 
It is definitely hard to beat for the price. I used a Currie EB spec'd housing on a previous build. It was a nice housing, well worth the little bit extra money compared to what those Big bearing housings go for used. If his housing is still good and straight, he should be able to recoup a few $100 from it as well.
 
tracyb said:
BOOM is right!

i just sent txt him a link to that page, and he immediately called wanting to buy it. so looks like a winner. the way i optioned it was $3890 i'll put a truss, shock mounts, the anti wrap bar mount. and then send to my powder coat guy.


i'm going to wait until the end of the day, maybe monday, before pulling the trigger.
Click to expand...

Shit, I woul be interested in the housing he doesn't use for my EB project. I'm just down the freeway way from you in Tacoma.
 
That's a good price.

I'd make sure to upgrade to an F9 or whatever Fab housing vs the banjo style that it probably is. Imo, the stock center is a waste of time, you may as well just use what you have and upgrade shafts and 3rd. You probably wouldn't have to truss it at that point also.

Edit: oh and I dong think that 3rd is going to be any stronger than what you have.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
That's a good price.

I'd make sure to upgrade to an F9 or whatever Fab housing vs the banjo style that it probably is. Imo, the stock center is a waste of time, you may as well just use what you have and upgrade shafts and 3rd. You probably wouldn't have to truss it at that point also.

Edit: oh and I dong think that 3rd is going to be any stronger than what you have.
Click to expand...

a fabbed housing would be tits. i've got to give currie a call and look into it.

the third, and shafts look like they will run close to $3k. to get a new housing and it all put together with brakes (i'm going for the wilwoods) for another grand is money well spent in my book. work done is billed at 120/hr and i'm not good at this part, so it adds up really quick.
 
tracyb said:
a fabbed housing would be tits. i've got to give currie a call and look into it.

the third, and shafts look like they will run close to $3k. to get a new housing and it all put together with brakes (i'm going for the wilwoods) for another grand is money well spent in my book. work done is billed at 120/hr and i'm not good at this part, so it adds up really quick.
Click to expand...

What I'm saying is, the axle you listed isn't *that* much of an upgrade imo. If you're doing it, get a load bolt 3rd and Fab housing.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
That's a good price.

I'd make sure to upgrade to an F9 or whatever Fab housing vs the banjo style that it probably is. Imo, the stock center is a waste of time, you may as well just use what you have and upgrade shafts and 3rd. You probably wouldn't have to truss it at that point also.

Edit: oh and I dong think that 3rd is going to be any stronger than what you have.
Click to expand...

While the fab9 is an upgrade, Currie doesnt use a stock center banjo for their axles. It is much more HD compared to the oem versions.

That third is a Strange Pro Iron, it will laugh at his current and future power levels, the load bolt isnt really needed. People arent blowing up nodular thirds at that power range, at least not that I'm aware of. I have personally run that third at the 620hp level in a street car with zero issues (I know not that same application) it shouldn't have a problem.
 
well i just go toff the phone with Currie. they said for the intended use, we should really go with a fab'd housing, something about bigger bearings i already forgot, and better axle shafts. things i cant option on that axle build page.

and just got the emailed quote. 4 pages of it.... in short;

-extreme axle shafts
- nodular race third w/ detroit locker
-fabricated housing with all big bearing stuff
-willwood brakes and ebrake w/ cable kit
-all put together/ complete
-semi float

$5.096.85 shipping included


theres one weld on line item for welding the spring pads for $144. i knock that off and its under $5k. free shipping is only good until monday..... i think this is what i'm going with.


i really thought this would be way more. its got the beef and not gonna lie. the fabbed housing and wilwood brakes will be the 'look'. i'll try and talk him into a fabricated 9 front too, well see.
 
There is such a variety of opinions on the 9" strength out there. I thought a good aftermarket 3rd and gears would trump a 60, but after calling a few very reputable companies (including Currie) they said they wouldn't recommend any 9" to replace a D60.

It might be enough though, no idea, I'm just saying, if you're spending $4k, why not spend $5k for a little more piece of mind.
 
tracyb said:
well i just go toff the phone with Currie. they said for the intended use, we should really go with a fab'd housing, something about bigger bearings i already forgot, and better axle shafts. things i cant option on that axle build page.

and just got the emailed quote. 4 pages of it.... in short;

-extreme axle shafts
- nodular race third w/ detroit locker
-fabricated housing with all big bearing stuff
-willwood brakes and ebrake w/ cable kit
-all put together/ complete
-semi float

$5.096.85 shipping included


theres one weld on line item for welding the spring pads for $144. i knock that off and its under $5k. free shipping is only good until monday..... i think this is what i'm going with.


i really thought this would be way more. its got the beef and not gonna lie. the fabbed housing and wilwood brakes will be the 'look'. i'll try and talk him into a fabricated 9 front too, well see.
Click to expand...

Nice :usa:​​​​​​

Definitely less than I thought.

Did you ask about full float?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Nice :usa:​​​​​​

Definitely less than I thought.

Did you ask about full float?
Click to expand...

i didn't. tbh i dont know enough to even ask. the dude said the qouted axle will handle the eventual 600hp and the sand dune romping wheels off the ground stuff. and i'm good with that
 
tracyb said:
i didn't. tbh i dont know enough to even ask. the dude said the qouted axle will handle the eventual 600hp and the sand dune romping wheels off the ground stuff. and i'm good with that
Click to expand...

I'm sure it will, I was just curious, how much more the full float would be.
 
tracyb said:
it was definitely a bad install. ive only got a couple pics ill add.

this is a rig my buddy's had since he could drive, put more money into than some new exotic car. but it always, slowly, gets better. even though its beat on. cheap and easy is my go to, but not on this one. it hard to explain but me and him both built our business's together, he trusts me blindly (well to 5k, see pre), and has paid me more than its worth working on it. i know what i'm good at and its not this

he's a ford guy and 9ich is ford (by his terms, but i think its only been ford?)

this axle needs to be able to handle the next motor he puts in. and when that motor goes in it will probably get a 9" front (and in a couple more years a bigger budget)

Click to expand...

So the ring gear bolts backed out almost completely and he just chipped a couple of teeth? Just put a new gear set in it and make sure the ring gear bolts are properly torqued and Loc-Tited :shaking: I have seen and read no evidence that he needs to upgrade anything other than he might put a 500-600HP motor in it "someday." Has he ever broken a stock 28 spline axle shaft? If the answer is no, then he isn't really that hard on his rear end despite what he may claim.

If blowing $5,000 on a rear end is what will make him happy, then have at it by all means, but it certainly isn't necessary.
 
I know a guy that might have a 14 bolt from a M1008 CUCV About 25 miles east of Olympia Wash.

Could call him if the OP has any interest in such an axle.

14 bolt with detroit locker would come with 4:56 gears.

LMK.
 
Last edited:
PAE said:
I know a guy that might have a 14 bolt from a M1008 CUCV About 25 miles east of Olympia Wash.

Could call him if the OP has any interest in such an axle.

14 bolt with detroit locker would come with 4:56 gears.

LMK.
Click to expand...

not for this project. i swear all the good stuff that comes up for sale is in that area east between seattle and oly. i'm on North Whidbey Is. a 5-6 hr round trip
 
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