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DRIVESHAFT TECH IN CHIT CHAT WANTS: 74'' 7K RPM

CarterKraft said:
You need to establish facts...
Click to expand...
couple more facts.....:flipoff2::laughing:

just got off phone with local(ish) builder. he said the front shaft is .018 out of round/square/whatever. needs the ends cut off and welded back on square. he said the amount of weights on that shaft alone should have been a red flag. couple hundred bucks to fix that part, i said do it.

then he recommended a rubber mount carrier. do it.

then he will mount it back up with the rear shaft and see what it looks like. he wasnt confident as it has more weight on it and the same weld quality.

so the take away and good news is it is getting fixed. today. i'll pick it up monday on my way to the auction and report back.

thanks everyone for the help and advice along the way. ive read it all multiple times to soak it all in.
 
xr-nut said:
couple more facts.....:flipoff2::laughing:

just got off phone with local(ish) builder. he said the front shaft is .018 out of round/square/whatever. needs the ends cut off and welded back on square. he said the amount of weights on that shaft alone should have been a red flag. couple hundred bucks to fix that part, i said do it.

then he recommended a rubber mount carrier. do it.

then he will mount it back up with the rear shaft and see what it looks like. he wasnt confident as it has more weight on it and the same weld quality.

so the take away and good news is it is getting fixed. today. i'll pick it up monday on my way to the auction and report back.

thanks everyone for the help and advice along the way. ive read it all multiple times to soak it all in.
Click to expand...
Have you relayed that info to the people you purchased it from asking them to cover the repairs?

Sucks that you got something bad out of the box. Hopefully they will stand behind their product and make it right.
 
Fingers crossed! :beer:

By facts I mean "is bushing loose" , "is new shaft fit out of spec", "is driveshaft fubar"
Don't just change components at a whim...
Change X because of Y.

If we go back over it a little it started with "Solid cross member" but after a day or two you found in your sleep a "missing" cross member.
The video of the above truck with similar numbers is on leaf springs, the pinion angle will vary greatly when on/off the throttle, yours shouldn't...
 
i have shortened up a bunch of drive shafts, i ground out the old weld. knocked off the weights, cut it down and spent some time with a level getting everything square. i have never had one vibrate. i tig them all up nice and neat. hell i have made a few from drill stem that run down the road smooth.
 
Steve300xcw said:
Glad you found a problem
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Fingers crossed is THE problem. I have my doubts, just cause it seems like lately everything i touch turns to shit. :laughing:
brantb said:
Have you relayed that info to the people you purchased it from asking them to cover the repairs?

Sucks that you got something bad out of the box. Hopefully they will stand behind their product and make it right.
Click to expand...
I have not relayed that yet. Going to get the entire bill from it fixed, then make sure its good to go with the current set up in the truck. you know, make sure its just the shaft causing trouble and not what ive done. then ill reach out to them.

Im skeptical they will want to assist in any way. there was an offer to send it back for a check after the first call with trouble. but what would that have gotten accomplished? They obviously thought it was acceptable enough to send out to me.
CarterKraft said:
Fingers crossed! :beer:

By facts I mean "is bushing loose" , "is new shaft fit out of spec", "is driveshaft fubar"
Don't just change components at a whim...
Change X because of Y.

If we go back over it a little it started with "Solid cross member" but after a day or two you found in your sleep a "missing" cross member.
The video of the above truck with similar numbers is on leaf springs, the pinion angle will vary greatly when on/off the throttle, yours shouldn't...
Click to expand...
true on the leaf springs. Im out of time, I have to throw everything against the wall and hope something sticks. :laughing: I know, I know, thats not the right way to do it. thanks mang
gunracer1 said:
i have shortened up a bunch of drive shafts, i ground out the old weld. knocked off the weights, cut it down and spent some time with a level getting everything square. i have never had one vibrate. i tig them all up nice and neat. hell i have made a few from drill stem that run down the road smooth.
Click to expand...
shipping on one to 66425? :lmao:
 
gunracer1 said:
i have shortened up a bunch of drive shafts, i ground out the old weld. knocked off the weights, cut it down and spent some time with a level getting everything square. i have never had one vibrate. i tig them all up nice and neat. hell i have made a few from drill stem that run down the road smooth.
Click to expand...
I always had them pull when welding them, then I started hammering in a little bit of runout before welding and welding the "high" side of the runout first.
maybe it "just works" if you've got a positioner or do a bunch of tacks all around it first?
 
gunracer1 said:
i have shortened up a bunch of drive shafts, i ground out the old weld. knocked off the weights, cut it down and spent some time with a level getting everything square. i have never had one vibrate. i tig them all up nice and neat. hell i have made a few from drill stem that run down the road smooth.
Click to expand...
I've made three that were fine, but never a split shaft.
 
[486] said:
I always had them pull when welding them, then I started hammering in a little bit of runout before welding and welding the "high" side of the runout first.
maybe it "just works" if you've got a positioner or do a bunch of tacks all around it first?
Click to expand...

If they are straight when you weld it. Heat the high side and quench it. You can pull quite a bit out of one
 
Steve300xcw said:
If they are straight when you weld it. Heat the high side and quench it. You can pull quite a bit out of one
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yeah you can flame straighten anything

but not needing to beats the shit outta needing to though
I also had no clue about that process back then
 
[486] said:
yeah you can flame straighten anything

but not needing to beats the shit outta needing to though
I also had no clue about that process back then
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I learned about flame straightening when I was 5. My dad was straightening a bunch of bent drill pipes.
 
CarterKraft said:
And then?
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im picking it up monday. he said he'd get it done yesterday, I did not hear back from him. but the plan was to grab it monday when im already in topeka.
Steve300xcw said:
Driveline shop put it on the back burner because he bought it online instead of from them:flipoff2:

He'll get it in a couple weeks:laughing:
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you shut your dirty whore mouth! :flipoff2::lmao:

hopefully you're not correct. although I shouldnt be surprised if thats the case.

see above :laughing:
 
[486] said:
I always had them pull when welding them, then I started hammering in a little bit of runout before welding and welding the "high" side of the runout first.
maybe it "just works" if you've got a positioner or do a bunch of tacks all around it first?
Click to expand...
Usually four tacks and roll on
 
Well it's in. Current numbers are:
Trans . . . . 3.5
1st shaft . . 2.0
2nd shaft . 0.9
Diff . . . 0.3


So we have the allowed 1.5 angle on the first joint. Are 1.7 apart on the 1st shaft to diff, which they wanted to within 1.

Drove it, it was good to 90/95. Then it started a vibration. I didn't go any faster.

Shop told me the front shaft, on the land where the carrier bearing mounts, it was .034" out. :eek:
 
I think today I'm going to brace the cross member first. Then drive it again. If it's still starting to vibe at 90 then I'll raise the center a little bit. I ended up having to lower the center due to the much taller rubber carrier.
 
New rubber mount. Had to trim the top slightly for clearance to the floor.

Any ideas or thoughts on how to sturdy up that tube member?

IMG_20240730_091208477.jpg
 
xr-nut said:
Any ideas or thoughts on how to sturdy up that tube member?
Click to expand...
Triangulate it to the frame fore and aft of the existing mount. Ideally with some vertical separation from the existing mount as well.
 
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