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DRIVESHAFT TECH IN CHIT CHAT WANTS: 74'' 7K RPM

Dethmachinefab said:
How's the trans mount? If what I think is going on is correct as a test see if it gets better by trying to lock that down because that is what's keeping the midshaft straight.

Grab the joint at the slip end and move it in an orbital motion and see. Like this pic, the carrier is the center.

fig_r_05f.gif
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the rubber mount is new. I have china made 4L80 swap member for the back of the trans from fleabay.

what am I looking for when I do this ?
 
xr-nut said:
why does a 1-piece work ok and a 2-piece requires new mounts? :laughing:

im kind of getting over this thing. its one thing after another. ALL of my own doing. :shaking:
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You've introduced more mounts and more areas for "flex" in the system, but you've eliminated the one-piece shaft's guaranteed failure at that length and speed.

Early on in this thread, I said that I'd had a one-piece shaft let go from exceeding its critical speed when I was going 101 mph. Trust me, you don't want to experience that.
 
1oddtech said:
Can you replace the engine and transmission rubber mounts with a poly one's?
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Can you replace the engine with a NRE twin turbo 454, replace the trans with a powerglide, replace the truck with with a SWB, replace the lug nuts with dice, and glue the headliner back up? Pretty sure that should do the trick.
 
redneckengineered said:
Can you replace the engine with a NRE twin turbo 454, replace the trans with a powerglide, replace the truck with with a SWB, replace the lug nuts with dice, and glue the headliner back up? Pretty sure that should do the trick.
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can i turn back the clock when it was just a lowly 4.8/4Lslippy shop truck and leave it the fuck alone? Sure wish I could. :laughing:
 
How is the slip yoke bushing in the back of the transmission? Worn/sloppy, or tight?
 
Probably ok then, but worth checking out. I had a worn on on my K5 back in the day (with much more angle than you) that had a weird vibe on decel.
 
I've got to believe something is fucked with the shaft in some way.

there's people around the globe slapping lift kits onto 2-piece driveshaft trucks and changing how all the angles correlate with each other and this doesn't happen. why do you need to worry about 1* when the 8" BRO lift kit changes that rear pinion angle by 20*
 
budget76 said:
I've got to believe something is fucked with the shaft in some way.

there's people around the globe slapping lift kits onto 2-piece driveshaft trucks and changing how all the angles correlate with each other and this doesn't happen. why do you need to worry about 1* when the 8" BRO lift kit changes that rear pinion angle by 20*
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I kind of agree but I have this exact problem on my dads lowered c10.
More extreme angles is not as bad as non cancelling angles.
 
CarterKraft said:
It's difficult doing this afar... But you are kind of all over the place... You need to establish facts...
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here are the facts.

current numbers:

transmission: 3.2 D
front shaft: 1.5 D
Rear shaft: .9 D
pinion: 0.0

brand new shaft made by reputable builder. hell even members here in this thread recommended them. the current numbers above, the builder said look "decent". truck still shakes.

another fact, before this shaft was installed, just last week...driving around on the oe death stick- no shakes.

fact- the sunnex yoke feels more loose to me in the output of the trans. that shouldnt be, should it? brand new premium part installed where the oe felt better?

what other facts should I be seeking?

edit- using my installed numbers above, they about match the numbers in the video you posted. should be good for me if its good for him. ?
 
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