arse_sidewards
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 71
- Messages
- 8,556
Cut out the exhaust and drop a solid round bar through the frame holes.
I think you're working on the wrong truckYesterday's fun in the shop
did you see the current numbers?I actually saw a video of a f body or some other hot rod type car that had the pinion pointed up he said it was butter smooth.
If the extension (first half ) is level with the trans where does that put he rear and pinion?
gotta work on some of that to pay for that other pile-o-shitI think you're working on the wrong truck
do you do driveshaft fab/sales or just a bunch of experience?Maybe this sketch will help. Circles are u joints. R is rear, T trans.
The top pic is no vibe condition. Shafts rotate on an axis down the center. Bottom pic is during vibe, the entire shaft is going off center from the dotted line representing the rotation axis.
Na, fab shop and build/install process equipment. Might have an eye for how things work and do alot of troubleshooting on equipment.do you do driveshaft fab/sales or just a bunch of experience?
asking for future me. I know you're somewhat close to my parents in NJ, not exactly sure how close
and that could easily be caused by that old cross member flexing even just a tiny amount. thanks that helps make sense.Maybe this sketch will help. Circles are u joints. R is rear, T trans.
The top pic is no vibe condition. Shafts rotate on an axis down the center. Bottom pic is during vibe, the entire shaft is going off center from the dotted line representing the rotation axis.
.250 wall square. Shouldn't flex.
Hopefully you plan on boxing / gussets for that thin ass Sheetmetal the bearing mount is made out of?
The new crossmember looks like it will be a big help. But as far as numbers go, while the mid joint and rear joint sound like they cancel, it doesn't look like there's anything to cancel the oscillation from that 2* on the front joint, so it still may not be perfect.that has to be a much sturdy mount set up. numbers as it sits are about where they were before I pulled it all apart. the front shaft and pinion are less than 0.5 apart. the front joint operating angle is 2ish and the rear shaft flat. I'll tack that mount up in the morning and go drive it. fangers crossed.
But I still think it's not a great design with a carrier at the shafts mid point.
I will do that here in a few minutes. along with a test drive. brbBeefing up the x member is a good thing. But I still think it's not a great design with a carrier at the shafts mid point. Maybe you can get away with it and a stiff trans mount to lock down the front of the shaft.
If you grab the joint on the slip end, can you move it up/down/side/side easily? Does the trans move when you do? That's really all you can change with this set up to try and keep things in line.
No not solid mounted. I'm sure theres some twisting/torquing happening...not sure it would effect this much, if at all?Is the engine solid mounted? Are you sure that the engine & transmission aren't torquing one direction?
yes, solid mounted.Is your trans mount crossmember solid mounted where it attaches to the frame, or does it have bushings?
no, I think he's saying that the slip joint on the rear shaft is too wobbly. or has the potential to be since it is so far from the carrier bearing.trying to follow. you're thinking the front portion of the shaft is too long and creating the wobble? AKA make the front short as possible to be able to get the rear shaft within acceptable length?
i know the OEM front shaft I pulled out of my pickup was pretty short and seems to jive with that thought.
If the engine and transmission are torquing as an assembly I could see that throwing the driveline off ° at least at the transmission.No not solid mounted. I'm sure theres some twisting/torquing happening...not sure it would effect this much, if at all?
yes, solid mounted.
no, I think he's saying that the slip joint on the rear shaft is too wobbly. or has the potential to be since it is so far from the carrier bearing.
as of now both are OE style rubber mounts.If the engine and transmission are torquing as an assembly I could see that throwing the driveline off ° at least at the transmission.
If the transmission is solid mounted, I would solid mount the engine to avoid breaking the transmission where the mount is.
its hard to see in the video but lifting up and down on the slip joint ujoint makes the back of the trans move in the opposite direction. not so much side to side, but you can still hear the trans slip clacking in the there.Beefing up the x member is a good thing. But I still think it's not a great design with a carrier at the shafts mid point. Maybe you can get away with it and a stiff trans mount to lock down the front of the shaft.
If you grab the joint on the slip end, can you move it up/down/side/side easily? Does the trans move when you do? That's really all you can change with this set up to try and keep things in line.
"Is the output shaft on the transmission tight in the housing?"That trans slip yoke flops around to much for my liking in that video. I don't think you have an angle problem, I think you might have a parts problem.
Is the output shaft on the transmission tight in the housing?
I think is doing a pivot around the carrier like you would row a kayak, the carrier being you and the ends of the oar the u joints. Imo it should be around 2x as long on the trans side compared to the slip side. Better yet would be the carrier right against the joint and the slip on the last shaft.trying to follow. you're thinking the front portion of the shaft is too long and creating the wobble? AKA make the front short as possible to be able to get the rear shaft within acceptable length?
i know the OEM front shaft I pulled out of my pickup was pretty short and seems to jive with that thought.
its hard to see in the video but lifting up and down on the slip joint ujoint makes the back of the trans move in the opposite direction. not so much side to side, but you can still hear the trans slip clacking in the there.
so flip the back shaft around and have the slip at the diff?I think is doing a pivot around the carrier like you would row a kayak, the carrier being you and the ends of the oar the u joints. Imo it should be around 2x as long on the trans side compared to the slip side. Better yet would be the carrier right against the joint and the slip on the last shaft.
should I try to move the carrier closer to the trans, to engage more of the splines there and also then put the pillow block back on to make that shaft more rigid?So picture that entire shaft orbiting around the center line like that and how badly out of balance it would get.