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Do you anti-seize lug nuts?

Make 'em silver?

  • Always

    Votes: 58 40.3%
  • Never

    Votes: 86 59.7%

  • Total voters
    144
Stainless fasteners that got assembled w/ oil (or dry) many moons ago, I often oil before disassembly. Learned that one the hard way :homer: - few things suck worse than breaking or cutting large stainless bolts because the nut's galled on.
Like cutting a ¾ ss nut off with a hack saw because you only stuck it together for fitment and now it won't come apart :homer:.
 
I’m surprised to read about all the issues anti-sieze is causing folks.
I typically use either anti-sieze or loc-tite on every single fastener that is exposed to the weather. Re-apply anti-sieze on wheel studs every 3-4 tire rotations and have never had a single issue in the 2-3 decades I’ve been doing it.

The only fasteners I’ve had issues with are the countersunk bolts holding the aluminum skid plates to the chassis, I’ve got a couple siezed now on the Jeep even though they were slathered with anti-sieze. Other than those bolts I’ve never had trouble removing any fasteners.
 
Like cutting a ¾ ss nut off with a hack saw because you only stuck it together for fitment and now it won't come apart :homer:.
Well yeah, kinda' - replace "hack saw" with "die grinder" because I'm not a fucking savage :flipoff2:



The only fasteners I’ve had issues with are the countersunk bolts holding the aluminum skid plates to the chassis, I’ve got a couple siezed now on the Jeep even though they were slathered with anti-sieze.

Galvanic corrosion, most likely. Sometimes you can detect a voltage across joints of dissimilar metals. Tough to fight w/o a sacrificial anode (usually zinc) or applying a voltage to counteract the natural ion flow.
 
I came to post the same bolt science article as well.
The issue with Anti seize is the normal person does not know the application or amount required and just goes for the "Bigger the glob, the better the job" method.
I have worked in railroad and aviation, we have specific procedures that call out where to put it and how much to use.

At home, yes, I lightly whiff it on my wheel studs.
For Rod ends inside a Tube/link, I pack that fucker full!
 
Yall torque your lug nuts?
I have found rotors last a lot longer when I do. If you throw a lot of heat to your brakes, I think it is a really good idea and it just takes a minute. I started doing it about 20 years ago and I have seen a difference.

I've not used anti seize on lug nuts, but I can see why people would... I think I would worry about nuts backing off more than not being able to get them off easily or stretching threads etc. So, one fear over another.
 
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Stainless fasteners that got assembled w/ oil (or dry) many moons ago, I often oil before disassembly. Learned that one the hard way :homer: - few things suck worse than breaking or cutting large stainless bolts because the nut's galled on.
When I was in Food Packaging we had to break off bolts or take it off the floor into the shop, Sanitize it ourselves and ATP test once it was back in place. We called galled threads Sunday night Fuck Me's! They often Happened After Facility Sanitation and During the line Changeovers for Monday at 4am.
 
Street driven car /truck /off road jeep gets a touch of grease, race car got the anti seize before the weekend and a retorque after every session.
done with seized nuts and such, I also adjust the torque accordingly for lubed fasteners (-15%)
 
I dunno about "easily" but back in the day I drilled out a bunch of VW drums to press in studs to un-retard advance the wheel mounting method :flipoff2:

Seriously, fawk wheel bolts :laughing:
Btdt. Sitting in a foot of snow trying to jam your boot at just the right angle to balance a 31x10.5 without dropping a handful of bolts... Fuhgeddaboudit!
 
Btdt. Sitting in a foot of snow trying to jam your boot at just the right angle to balance a 31x10.5 without dropping a handful of bolts... Fuhgeddaboudit!
In the tool kit for cars with wheel bolts is a little threaded stud about 5" long. I remember when I was a kid, at my Grandpa's shop, seeing one and asked him about it....in broken english "eet ees for when woman change tire to make easier". Screw it into the hub, hang the wheel on it, and slide it on. You might try it.
 
In the tool kit for cars with wheel bolts is a little threaded stud about 5" long. I remember when I was a kid, at my Grandpa's shop, seeing one and asked him about it....in broken english "eet ees for when woman change tire to make easier". Screw it into the hub, hang the wheel on it, and slide it on. You might try it.
Would that be in the toolkit from the Bug, or the Subaru, or the Type 2, or the Thing, or the Ford...? I seem to have misplaced mine in the last 50 years.

Of course, with studs you don't need a specialty tool. Kinda like real bumpers don't need a gay little screweye.
 
Would that be in the toolkit from the Bug, or the Subaru, or the Type 2, or the Thing, or the Ford...? I seem to have misplaced mine in the last 50 years.

Of course, with studs you don't need a specialty tool. Kinda like real bumpers don't need a gay little screweye.
I bought the sizes I need and they just stay in the car.
stop putting mercedes wheels on things that aren't mercedeses and you'll have less issues with bolt length
wheel spacers actually.

cause e46 wheels on e91 things.
yes they're hubcentric spacers because I'm not a heathen.
 
In the tool kit for cars with wheel bolts is a little threaded stud about 5" long. I remember when I was a kid, at my Grandpa's shop, seeing one and asked him about it....in broken english "eet ees for when woman change tire to make easier". Screw it into the hub, hang the wheel on it, and slide it on. You might try it.
I've made starter studs out of long-shank bolts before - usually to assemble difficult big shit, but I could see doing it to compensate for a shit design like wheel bolts instead of studs :flipoff2:
 
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I've made starter studs out of long-shank bolts before - usually to assemble difficult big shit, but I could see doing it to compensate for a shit design like wheel bolts instead of studs :flipoff2:
I have the studs in the cars and never use them.

you can't jam a wheel onto the hub and keep it pressed against it and put in a bolt one handed?
How do you even please a woman if you can't manage that level of manual dexterity?
 
you can't jam a wheel onto the hub and keep it pressed against it and put in a bolt one handed?
I don't do modern Eurotrash things. My case = throwing 31x10.50s on the back of a Baja - yeahhh, I'd rather just hang the wheel on all 5 studs & flat-hand hold that while spinning on the lug nuts.

Also, I had a morbid fear of those little threads failing in the cast iron brake drums - a headed stud pressed through from the back side cured my anxiety :laughing:
 
Also, I had a morbid fear of those little threads failing in the cast iron brake drums - a headed stud pressed through from the back side cured my anxiety :laughing:
oddly enough never had threads pull out of a hub yet

but I do lubricate threaded shit that's going to be disassembled many times
 
So studs are better than bolts on things like crankshafts heads and connecting rods, but somehow worse for wheel mounting?
 
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So studs are better than bolts on things like crankshafts heads and connecting rods, but somehow worse for wheel mounting?
worse how?
studs are more expensive, so yes of course they are worse in the eyes of the accountant
 
Nothing is more pleasing when fixing your eurotrash so you can get to work the next day than requiring multiple attempts at getting each wheel back on the car to finish the job.
 
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